Zammin

The image makes it look like the fans and radiator are on the front of the case, but they are actually on the side facing outward (the radiator is in the second chamber with the PSU etc) but yeah I get what you're saying, it's still technically at the front of the case. I'm hoping by using soft tubing initially for testing I can test various scenarios to see which works the best before finalising everything with hard tubing. It's still very helpful to get opinions from you guys beforehand so I know what things I need to take into consideration and what I might expect to achieve.

Cheers! I'm running a Maximus XI Formula though so the VRMs are water cooled Also for some reason the title of my thread has been changed haha, maybe someone thought the original title was too long.

Yeah I have considered this, but it should be fine I think. It's an EK D5 pump in a Heatkiller Tube 200, and the EK rads are not very restrictive, same for the EK velocity CPU block, it's very low restriction. What I will do though is when I run my initial testing with the soft tubing, I will put my barrow flow meter on the inlet to the pump to measure flow rate and see how it handles. Interesting, I thought negative pressure was only an issue for dust control but I could be wrong. It does allow for fresh air to be pulled into the case from the ventilated areas that don't have fan mounts though. Previously when I first setup my system I had the side rad as intake and the top as exhaust, but I got slightly better cooling performance when I changed them both to exhaust for full negative pressure. I do appreciate your thoughts though, I will have to do a bit more reading on the effects of positive and negative pressure.

Thanks a lot for your input! Sadly the case does not have an option for a rear fan, I really wish it did! They put space for one of the O11-Air butnot for the O11-Dynamic I'm not too worried about pressure balance if it's for for dust control, even with entirely negative pressure I don't get much dust in the case at all, and that's with no filters haha. It sits on mys desk so that may have something to do with it. Having negative pressure seems to allow for cool air to be pulled through the vented spaces of the floor and rear of the case so that may help I think. Thank you! Yeah that is what I originally expected, I didn't think the warm air from the 240 would be enough to really hurt performance. I understand that in the absolute ideal scenario, one would want to have fresh air moving through all the radiators but in a small case like this it's not really possible or practical. Yeah it's the 9900k that I'm most concerned about haha. The 2080Ti only runs a few degrees hotter than the 1080Ti under water from what i have read.

Hi everyone! I am currently running a custom loop in the popular Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic case with two radiators. One is an EK XE360 in the top, the other is an XSPC EX360 mounted vertically in the second chamber. Both radiators are exhausting air out of the case, and air is brought into the case through the fully vented floor and rear of the case via negative pressure. This setup has been working well for my 8700k and 1080Ti. However I am upgrading to a 9900k and a 2080Ti very soon, both of which output more heat than my previous components. I'm also using a Maximus XI Formula that cools the VRMs with water, so that will be a little bit more heat in the loop as well. To help with the additional heat load, my plan was to add another radiator to the loop. The only free space left is the floor, so I bought a EK PE240 to mount to the floor with the fans pulling air through the radiator and into the case. Now the dilemma I am in right now is that someone told me I could be hurting my cooling performance instead of increasing it because the 240 radiator will heat the air going into the case, which means the other radiators will be fed with warmer air. I'm still not sure about this as I've always been led to believe that more radiator capacity/surface area is always better than less, even if the air is warmed up by one radiator before passing through the next. I see plenty of builds online running radiators in both intake and exhaust, including most PC-O11 dynamic builds with radiators on the floor. I've been googling for a while now and I can't seem to find any definitive answers or articles on the matter. At this point since I'm unsure, I do plan to test both scenarios with some soft tubing first to find out which is best before finalising the build with hard tubing. However I still wanted to hear what some of you experienced watercooling enthusiasts had to say on the matter. Here is a rough draft of how I plan to setup my loop. Do you think adding the third 240 radiator in the floor will still gain me better cooling performance? Or do you think it will hurt performance instead? EDIT: The picture is a little misleading in that it makes it look like I'm exhausting air forward out the front of the case, but the radiator and fans are actually mounted to the side blowing air out the side of the case (the radiator is in the second chamber with the PSU etc). Apologies for the confusion, it was hard to represent it that way from a side perspective.

Yeah I saw that one and liked the look of it, until saw that once plugged in it has a great big straight DC power plug sticking vertically out of the top of the unit. They don't show it in their product images but I found an unboxing video that showed it. Huge aesthetic oversight on Thermaltake's part.. On the other hand the unit I'm looking at just has a small wire coming off it that goes to a fan header where it receives it's power and outputs an RPM signal.

Hi everyone,Recently I have come across the Barrowch OLED flow meter which I think looks fantastic, however when searching for one online there weren't a lot of places that sell it, it will cost me $100+ to buy one and ship here from the US or from Aliexpress.. (I live in Australia)However in my searching, a product that looks identical to the barrowch unit with the exact same part number (FBFT03) comes up on ebay, with the only difference being the barrowch logo missing from the face plate. This option is $64 posted, far more reasonable. Here are the links to the Barrowch product page and the listings I found on ebay:http://www.barrowch.com/product/product-2-537.htmlhttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FBFT03-G...torefresh=truehttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-54-OLE...mdFd:rk:7:pf:0My question is, does anyone know if these are indeed the same product? It would certainly be possible that barrowch are buying those unbranded models and printing their name on the face plate since they are both Chinese and everything else looks identical including the part number and where it's printed. However if these are actually an inferior product to the barrowch version I will probably steer clear of them. I'm hoping someone here might know.The reason I am looking at getting one of these is that my bitspower flow indicator unfortunately makes a rattling sound at high pump speeds so I'm considering changing it.Thanks in advance to anyone that can provide some advice on the matter.

Well I emailed bitspower support and they basically just told me it will always happen and to just live with it lol. Pretty poor answer considering nowhere on any page advertising or selling the item does it say "Warning: can make rattling sounds at higher flow rates" I just tested and even at 70% there is still noise coming from it, although less than at 100%.

During 100% GPU load (gaming or looping heaven benchmark) if I drop the pump speed to 50 my GPU starts to creep up in temperature. I haven't let it go for long enough to see exactly how high but it does go up by at least 3C. With my current settings I can keep my Strix 1080Ti OC under 40C during extended full load. I might try contacting Bitspower about it but I'm with you on that one, they might say it's something I did or they might just say they don't know. I guess it might be worth a shot. It is troublesome to have to send it overseas though, which is why I was hoping to do something about it myself if possible. But there might not be much I can do at this point.

Thanks, I don't run it at full speed except during gaming or benchmarks when my system is running flat out. As I mentioned before the D5 pump noise is far more audible at speeds below 100% but above 50%. At 50% and below the performance drop off is noticeable during heavy use. So if I ran it at say, 70% as a compromise, I no longer have the noise from the flow indicator but I have the loud humming/whirring sound of the D5 pump instead. One of the upsides to the D5 is that it's not very audible at 100%.

Here is where I have it right now:

Yeah there are indeed alternatives, but if I can fix it somehow I would definitely like to do that. I like the product, just bummed about the noise. I could also turn my pump speed down a bit but the sound signature is pretty quiet at 100% and <50%. Anywhere between 50% and 100% it's a very audible whirring/humming sound. So I have it set up to run at 50% or below (on a curve) during normal use, and 100% when running my system is running flat out in games, since it keeps my GPU cooler that way.

Damn, it sounds like this kind of issue might be more common than I thought. I particularly like this one because it has 6 G1/4 openings around the hexagonal body for things like temperature sensors. I am currently using an XSPC temp sensor plug in one of the bottom ports, which my radiator fan speeds are controlled from. In the worst case scenario I could use a different product like the Thermaltake TF1 but I would have to add a T fitting somewhere to keep my sensor. I much prefer the way it is now, it's just such a shame about the noise.

Hi everyone. I have this Bitspower flow indicator in my watercooling loop: I've only had it for a few months. Lately it has started to make a bit of a clicking/rattling noise when I run my D5 pump at full speed. It's quite annoying and I've only been able to find one thread online about a similar issue with a Primochill flow indicator. I'm looking for any advice as to how I can fix the issue, it's not an easy matter to return it since I live in Australia and had to buy it from PPCs in America, since watercooling gear is very scarce in local retailers. I will be pulling my system apart in the coming months for some upgrades which will give me the opportunity to do something about it. It was pretty expensive to buy and ship here, and I do like the way it looks so I'm hoping I can fix the noise rather than replace it. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Michael is generally a nice guy in my experience, he is quite active in the Mayhems thread over on OCN. I don't think he was dodging giving you advice, he probably just didn't have a safe answer as he doesn't know anything about the radiator combo you have. He might look into it now that he is aware (he didn't seem to know about your swiftech 2-in-1 before now by the looks of it) or he might not have the capacity for it since it would be a very small part of his customer base that have that specific radiator and want to use blitz part 1. You could ask Swiftech about it if you wanted to, I asked EK about blitz and they were able to give me their reasoning for why they don't recommend it with their products. Although it would be much easier to just do a regular hot water flush than going to all this trouble for a workaround with blitz. You could probably still use part 2 and that would be better than nothing if you're dead set on blitz. I think part 2 is safe for reservoirs. Alternatively, can you remove the reservoir from the rad? I don't know what it looks like but I would assume there is a way to disassemble it? Even conventional radiators can be dismantled to a point. Perhaps you could post some pictures of your product and we could try and help?