tohico

Hey guys, I've been looking into some monitors and I've seen some models that have external adapters with only 2-prongs = ungrounded power. The device is naturally double insulated. I know it's common on TVs, but I've never seen it on an actual monitor since you connect it to a PC. What are the potential downsides of such solution? Can potential internal malfunction of the monitor damage the gpu, the computer or cause fires due to lack of grounding?

Very weird indeed. I did try to run them through Secure Erase as well. I don't think the Secure Erase touches the partition table, so that was likely the reason it didn't work for me either.

Good news, I have managed to resolve it. On the way I discovered many side quests and workarounds, but since I solved it completely, let me get straight to the point. First issue is that the drives aren't being decommissioned properly, must be a bug on this motherboard (software bugs are super common with Asus, although decommissioning through Raidxpert2 desktop app didn't work either). The partition table was completely f-ed up, various softwares were giving me mixed info on the partition table type. It was also addressing outside of physical space. Fixing the partition table was one of the first things I tried before, but for some reason it didn't work - when I created a new GPT table through GParted, then also new partitions (tried NTFS and EXT4), it was still broken and I couldn't even mount them in Linux. But here's how I progressed further. In Gparted, I only created a new GPT partition table and left it alone. Then I loaded up Windows installation where I created partitions on them through the disk management in the installation process. Then I successfully installed Windows on them and boom, suddenly I was able to work with them properly in Disk Management again. Now the second issue, at this point it was straight forward. Since the Windows installation saw the drives as well as the clean Windows installation, it was obvious the drives not showing up in Windows was a driver-related issue. So then I went straight for removing the Raidxpert2 driver. Since removing disk drivers is a bit iffy, I rather restored the Windows prior to the driver installation. This worked like a charm and fixed the issue completely. For some reason the driver was blocking the drives that were previously used in RAID, but since the RAID was turned off, it didn't want to let me further work with them. I'm glad my NVMe drives are no longer paper weights. It was supposed to be a one hour side quest, but it turned into 3 day issue. Pretty messed up experience...

Unfortunately no, there's nothing like this on the AMD platform. I can set them up only through the Raidxpert2 in BIOS. The user manual for the raid tool says I only need to delete the arrays, which doesn't work for me. I'm still tinkering with it and have done some progress, it seems there are actually two bugs associated with this. That's why I have been running in a circle. Will post my findings once I'm done.

Am I supposed to configure it in the RAID configuration in BIOS or within the BIOS? Because I can work with this only in the RAID configuration and this whole tool disappears when I disable the RAID. Either way I have tried to pre-configure the volumes in the RAID configuration before disabling it, still no luck. In regards to configuration within BIOS alone, I went through it all again and I cannot find anything like this in there. I can address the NVMe drives individually only in 3 ways - through NVMe Configuration which shows info about the drives and gives me only the option to run self-test on them, nothing else. Secondly I can rename the M.2 ports in the Storage Configuration, oddly it doesn't show them as connected under there when RAID disabled. And thirdly, I can run Secure Erase on them. There's no other way of working with them individually outside of the RAID configuration. Further I have tried: Initialize the drives with no arrays within the RAID configuration before turning it off. Disabling AMI Native NVMe Driver Support in Boot Options.

I had configured RAID on my NVMe SSDs for volatile storage (not boot drive) through my motherboard (Asus Strix X570-F / RAIDXpert2), now I want to disable the RAID on them but I cannot. No matter what I do, once I turn off the NVMe RAID mode, Windows no longer sees the NVMe drives (Disk Management nor Diskpart). I can see them only in BIOS and in GParted where I can work with them, but they show up as unreadable and I cannot mount them. I have tried: Deleting the RAID arrays before disabling. Setting simple volumes through the RAID before disabling. Prepared the drives for removal through the raidxpert2 desktop application. Rebuilt partition table and made new partitions through GParted once RAID disabled. Secure-erased the NVMe drives in BIOS once RAID disabled. Is there a special way I'm supposed to remove the RAID? Or what else can I do with the SSDs to turn them usable outside of RAID again? Thank you for any help.

I think I found a way to fix it. It seems it was derping out purely because of the grayed out Monitor Technology setting. I went to the NVIDIA Control Panel and changed a random setting for Google Chrome, then I restored all the settings for it. This caused the Monitor Technology to not be grayed out, therefore it uses the global setting properly now plus I'm able to force any mode on it. Edit: Doesn't work with the newest drivers anymore...

Hey guys, so I got fed up by the jerkiness of Firefox over the years and I've completely switched to Google Chrome. But there's one weird issue with this. When watching videos through Chrome in a fullscreen, it turns the g-sync on. The transition isn't completely seamless and it tends to jump off it like when I hover over the next video icon and stuff like that. Therefore I'd gladly prefer to not use the g-sync for this. My g-sync setup is completely turned off by default, I use it to turn itself on on individual games through the NVIDIA Control Panel only. Therefore something is forcing it to turn on regardless my g-sync settings. I wanted to specifically disable this in the NVIDIA Control Panel for Google Chrome, but the Monitor Technology setting (the setting for forcing the display mode - eg. gsync) is grayed out there. The only thing that worked was by disabling the hardware acceleration in Chrome completely, but the performance is the reason I'm switching to it. So I'd like to keep that on... Is there a way to prevent Google Chrome from turning G-Sync on in fullscreen videos without actually disabling the hardware acceleration completely?

I have a question, is this dependent purely on the port? Let me explain where my worries come from. GTX 780 and GTX 780 Ti both support 4K@60Hz over DP, so it has DP 1.2, correct? But here's the thing. GTX 780 can do only 1440p@120Hz max and GTX 780 Ti can do 1440p@144Hz max. But only GTX 960 and newer can do over the 1440p@144Hz. They should all have DP 1.2 I believe.

Gsync. It's much safer bet to plan with nvidia cards for the future. Plus I think freesync is using more limited range based on the monitors. Often they come working from 48 Hz which is just way too high for the minimum imho. Gsync will work with anything you throw at it.

Theoretically, it may affect the lifespan the same way like overclocking. But I'm purely theorizing here. I believe 144 Hz should be still fairly okay, only the 165 Hz is something that would worry me at night. Anyway, you can set the changing process to do all this automatically. Set the refresh rate to the desired default refresh rate through Nvidia Control Panel (not the monitor - it wouldn't be switching itself back). Then go to the Nvidia Control Panel > Manage 3D Settings > Program Settings -> Select desired game(s) -> set Monitor Technology to Fixed Refresh Rate and if the game doesn't allow you to set the refresh rate by yourself or you want the 144 Hz anyway, then also set Preferred Refresh Rate to Highest Available. This way, you can you use the monitor at 60 Hz in desktop and when you start the game, it switches itself to 144 Hz and when you exit it, then it goes back to 60 Hz. Either way, I don't think it's worth it. Too much hassle and I find the monitor very addicting at 144 Hz even in Windows. So let's hope they don't die on us after 3 years when the warranty ends

There's no need to turn the overdrive completely off, the medium works very well and the pixels are still very fast. It's just that the extreme setting is pushed quite a bit more than it's even usual. It seems they just wanted to hit the 4 ms response time no matter the consequences.

That's the best way to go. The BLB won't be easy to spot in a lit room though. Either way, look at the frame directly (=not in an angle), that's always the way the come up easily even in lit rooms. It'll be just harder to tell how significant they will be in real use (dark room, eyesight in the middle of the monitor). Their refresh cycle is hard to tell, but it seemed to be a year for this line up. So any successor (maybe even as 4k high-refresh rate) would have come out by already. On the other hand, they've come out with an ultrawide and some smaller screens recently, plus the revised version of the PG278Q, the PG278QR. So I don't expect the successor any time soon. (meant as IPS QHD/UHD 144 Hz or more)

Do you mean the overdrive? I'm not sure how exactly it works. But in general, if an adjustment would take too much time, the pixel goes to a different state instead (like black or white) and then switches back to the wanted state. For example, instead of doing grey->greyer, it goes grey->black->greyer in overall faster time. But how it's adjusted, what methods they use to make it usable, etc, I have no idea in this regard.

I recommend to change the overdrive setting, the extreme setting overshoots like crazy - that's why you see the black ghosts. Going from extreme (gtg 4.0 ms, overshoot 40.0 %) to medium (gtg 5.2 ms, overshoot 0.4 %) will cost you only 1 ms in response time and there will be absolutely no noticeable overshoot It's very common to not go for the highest setting with overdrive, the highest one is often set up to overshoot here and there. It's not meant for the everyday use.