Alex Atkin UK

Which could very well be the ISP is being sneaky and has a higher limit for speed tests to make your connection look better than it is.  Or they do it specifically so the boost speed can be tested.
 
If the ISP package is 48Mbit then its rather irrelevant, as you're getting what is being paid for.

I suggest you take a step back and actually try to understand what the community is trying to explain to you in all of their posts.
 
I understand you are young and just trying to learn, that is a really good thing! But you need to take a step back and internalize what folks are telling you... since they are all correct.
 
Speedtest is not "lying", the numbers it is giving you are correct; speedtest.net is, without a doubt, able to give you 100mbps results. But the question is why, and that question has been answered by 3 or 4 people...
 
There are really only 2 possible explinations, neither of which you will easily be able to determine, with a potential but unnlikely 3rd option.
 
Option 1: your ISP is seeing you are trying to hit a speedtest.net server, and they are artificually lifting the 50mbps limit on your connection to that server, and that server only. This is not difficult for them to do... but they will almost certainly never admit to doing it. They do this to try and make people beleive they are getting more then they pay for, but in reality, they are only lifiting limits to certain speed testing sites.
 
Option 2: your ISP hosts a speedtest.net server on its own infrastrucutre. Your ISP may be able to route your traffic within its own network at 100 mbps even if you are paying for a slower speed, but once you exit the ISP's network that is where it puts the brakes on and slows things down.
 
Potential option 3, but not very likely - the burst idea. In certain bursts, if the network isn't overloaded, they may provide a little more than you are paying for. I pay for 500/25, and I almost always get 600/25. They don't guarantee 600, but I typically do get 600-625 ish. I am sure if I try and download something when everyone else is trying to download something (I have cable, so it is impacted by how everyone else in your local area is hitting the network) it will likley struggle to keep me at 500, but itll certainly try to (and usually does, I rarely see anything under 500).
 
These are really your only options. And if you are paying for 48... you have no leg to stand on, and have almost 0 chance of making any other connection exceed 50mbps, its being limited by your ISP... they own the pipes, and they get to put speed limits on them based on what tier of service you pay for. 

Which could very well be the ISP is being sneaky and has a higher limit for speed tests to make your connection look better than it is.  Or they do it specifically so the boost speed can be tested.
 
If the ISP package is 48Mbit then its rather irrelevant, as you're getting what is being paid for.

Which could very well be the ISP is being sneaky and has a higher limit for speed tests to make your connection look better than it is.  Or they do it specifically so the boost speed can be tested.
 
If the ISP package is 48Mbit then its rather irrelevant, as you're getting what is being paid for.

Stop giving me flashbacks of going through dozens of VGA cables to try to find the one with the least ghosting.

Just to point out, the ISP router is not "only acting as a switch", its very much the core router on your network.  The bit that connects to your ISP and translates traffic between your network and the Internet.
 
WiFi is effectively a virtual switch, while your router will also have a physical switch for the ethernet ports.  Router, WiFi, Ethernet Switch are all completely independent things that happen to be combined in a single unit.
 
So naturally you can add external devices that take over some of what its doing, like the WiFi, or adding extra switches.

Which could very well be the ISP is being sneaky and has a higher limit for speed tests to make your connection look better than it is.  Or they do it specifically so the boost speed can be tested.
 
If the ISP package is 48Mbit then its rather irrelevant, as you're getting what is being paid for.

Its always better to have more bandwidth than you need, than less.  But this always has to be weighed against the cost.
 
You also have to remember there is need vs want.
 
I have disabilities that means when I feel well enough to game, I need to game NOW before I'm too fatigued to do so.  Before getting Gigabit, often I'd have to wait 30-60 minutes for the game I want to play to update, at which point I no longer feel like playing it.  So I will be upgrading to 2Gbit once its available.
 
Also if you are a content creator, you're going to want more upload bandwidth than at least the upload speed cap of the service you use.  Same with cloud backups.
 
If you are just watching cat videos or other streaming content, 100Mbit is probably more than enough for most families, maybe 200Mbit for a bigger household and 40Mbit for a single person.

Which could very well be the ISP is being sneaky and has a higher limit for speed tests to make your connection look better than it is.  Or they do it specifically so the boost speed can be tested.
 
If the ISP package is 48Mbit then its rather irrelevant, as you're getting what is being paid for.

The Whole Home WiFi does not appear to act as a router, it appears to be a WiFi mesh completely independent of your router.
 
Its a bit strange the setup doesn't say to disable WiFi in the router, given this leaves you with one Access Point not part of the mesh (the router) which makes the mesh network less effective.
 
If possible I'd try plugging a wired device that has a Gigabit port into the cable the disc is plugged into, just to confirm the cable is working okay.  Being limited to just under 100Mbit is usually a cable/port issue causing a 100Mbit link instead of Gigabit.

I'd always assume its only going to last the warranty, unlike air coolers which so long as you get ones compatible with normal fans can practically last forever with just a fan swap.

Performance wise no, but it will reduce power consumption, you may not need the cooler fan to spin as fast and it gives you more leeway if you need to run it in a hot room in the summer.  Not everyone has air conditioning so the latter can be a factor.

Performance wise no, but it will reduce power consumption, you may not need the cooler fan to spin as fast and it gives you more leeway if you need to run it in a hot room in the summer.  Not everyone has air conditioning so the latter can be a factor.

Nothing I disagree with there, I'm aware my situation is somewhat unique as I'm trying to conserve disk space by not keeping preview thumbnails of my media files and just letting them generate in real-time.
 
But if its being built for a desktop now and will become a NAS later, its definitely not wasted.  The idle power consumption seems basically identical between the 12400 and the 14700K, so it just has the power there when it needs it.  It does seem to have made Plex indexing new files a lot faster.

Bottom line, it makes no sense to install applications on D: as that wont stop it from storing the configuration files on C:.  If C: corrupts, you'll have the same problem and have to reinstall the applications anyway due to all the registry stuff.  Its never ever worth trying to hack things back into the registry to make applications work without a reinstall, you'll just mess up your new Windows install again.
 
I've always stored as much as possible on D:, before moving to storing most stuff on a NAS.  When it comes to getting application settings back, its just safer to start from scratch than try to move things over.  Your OS got corrupted, so anything you move over from there is a risk it was corrupted.  So its only worth moving what is absolutely essential.
 
The only thing I ever used to move between installs was my Firefox profile, that was dead easy.  Depending on why your previous OS got corrupted, it could be your Brave profile is corrupt and why it keeps refusing to use it.
 
This was actually one reason I fell in love with Linux, its so much easier to backup everything and a complete OS reinstall can be done without wiping anything in your user folder.

This video just didn't sit right with me, rewarding someone for this behaviour.

While replacing a few capacitors is not complicated, knowing they were actually the cause of the problem and not a symptom of a greater problem elsewhere IS complicated.

Still no idea what you mean, i225 should show as igc0, igc1, igc2, igc3.
 
Given how cheap this device is, they may be using the old faulty i225 chips which will cause issues.  You should specifically look for devices with i225 B3 or i226 which fixed the issues.

He picked the least aggressive sentenced but still begging one out of already a crazy number that have already asked his social media.
Linus did say "Anyone that does this now will be message banned from said social media."
IMO he made this video to do one person but also made it so that he can say hey don't be crazy to our social media.
 
But yeah I agree this is stupid no one is going to listen linus, its probably the most dumb thing I have seen.
ROG rig reboot was a series that was good because contestants had to get creative to make a pitch to get to the point. not beg.

Oh I notice it has Killer software, is that installed?  That often lives up to its name and kills the speed.

That's given me some imagery I didn't want.

It ran fine on any 12gb card and up now it runs fine starting at 8gb sith lowered texture settings.
 
 

I believe it was fine for 16G cards.

I'm a bit wary of this, as the fan started to seize on my 12400 stock cooler when running 24/7.  I only noticed because I upgraded it to a 14700K (the none K variant was barely any cheaper so I figured get the potentially better binned part) and kinda got in the habit of spinning the fans with my finger to check how they are holding up and noticed it was no longer freely spinning.
 
I mean sure it was probably just a fluke, but at least after market coolers you can swap the fans if they fail, and not even need to remove the heatsink.

This sounds premature, if its a cheap ethernet coupler I'd sooner blame that.  I bought a whole batch and they were so cheaply made I would lose the connection entirely if anyone sneezed near them.
 
Assuming its just being used to make a longer cable, buying a longer cable so you don't need it is the obvious option.
 
If it still doesn't work then I would wonder if the repeater in fact has no switch and is running those ports over the CPU.