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homeap5

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Everything posted by homeap5

  1. You may have problem with one situation - when you try to install Windows on new drive. Windows trying to use the same bootloader instead creating new one, so if it finds one drive in system that contains bootloader - it uses that one. If you have no system on any drive (and no bootable partitions / bootloaders) and you want to install new system, you'll be fine even with other drives plugged in. Unplugging other drivers is something like insurance policy - if it's not a big problem, it takes only few seconds to unplug drives and you'll be sure that you don't must to check everything.
  2. Really? Similar topics explains that Windows uses memory if it's possible. For improve system speed and many other things. Don't worry - if any of your programs will need more ram, Windows release this memory for you. You bought memory not for good looking, but for use. So be happy that your system uses it. But if "help" means "do something, I want to have always free memory", then you should just disable all services and functions that can use your memory - like SysMain, prefetch, Windows Update, Windows Defender, search indexer etc.
  3. Repair Windows or reinstall or anything like that is not necessary - especially when OP only replace processor. Accidentally resetting BIOS settings is what happend (95%). Some BIOS-es gives option like "load default settings" in case something was changed in hardware. If OP do not skip that but choose that option - the only he should do is to proper re-configure BIOS.
  4. Go to bios and choose proper boot method. UEFI or legacy, depends on how your installation was made. Select "UEFI only" at first then try. If you want to choose boot order in case UEFI+Legacy mode, use "Windows Boot Loader" as priority drive, not just drive where your system is located (because UEFI+Legacy boot in bios will show you your devices both - as possible to boot in Legacy or UEFI mode, and you probably selected Legacy mode device). Sorry for not so great explanation, but I hope you'll change it proper.
  5. Zip, rar etc. are archives. Do not run anything from inside. Unpack all files first then run exe or browse for drivers.
  6. Any reason for reinstalling system?
  7. Download it to different location (make your own directory). Also - av software may interfere with it. Or - you have missing vc++ libraries, so install all vc++.
  8. Even if not the same - ethernet drivers installs without problem. At least in my cases. I have proposal - less asking, more trying.
  9. I made this (swapping systems between devices) LOT of time. My current system starts as i5 3rd gen on H77 chipset and now I'm using i7 8tg gen on Z370. Also - this is my third ssd I changed by cloning existing system to another drive (without any reinstall of course). I have oem win10 and it works.
  10. No, it can't be. Overheating have different symptoms. Do you checked second ram stick?
  11. So try second stick. I proposed single stick in case one of them is faulty. Insert second ram stick only and check. And next time wait a little more with reinstall - is easiest to check what is wrong (in event viewer for example).
  12. It's not Defender itself but additional protection you enabled in configuration that prevents some folders for changes.
  13. You don't loose your license if you have box version. But if it's oem, you must first link your account like I said. How? https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/20530/windows-10-reactivating-after-hardware-change Read section "Link your Windows 10 digital license to your Microsoft account".
  14. For uninstall old unused drivers for non-existing hardware use Ghostbuster tool. For removing old version of drivers for the same hardware - RAPR. But your problem may be hardware related. You should be perfectly fine by booting your existing installation on new hardware (no matter what some people says here). Try to boot your system with only single ram stick. First of all - do NOT try to made new system install if you experienced BSOD problems. Installing system on faulty hardware is not a good idea. Second - Windows do not mess with drivers when booting on new hardware. Windows do not use ANY drivers for ANY hardware randomly or blind. Windows uses drivers for existing hardware only, so new hardware means new drivers with new ids. It's like changing GPU from Nvidia to AMD - Windows will not try to use Nvidia drivers for Radeon card - it ask for new drivers. The same is about motherboard and every other hardware. After years of using PC you can find on your system (depends on how do you use it) lot of old, ghost hardware - plenty of hard drives, usb drives, expansion cards that you no longer use etc. It's fine - Windows keeps it in registry just in case you connect them in the future. If you replce CPU system recognized that, but still remember your old CPU. If you made frequent changes in your hardware, you may have lot of interesting history in device manager (if you have hidden drivers show). So - your problem is not with old drivers. It may be hardware related, you may even check sata cables or OC settings (or even virtual memory settings). Try that ram sticks - maybe one of them is damaged.
  15. You must prepare proper usb for uefi boot. Use Windows iso file and rufus.
  16. Clean install, reset windows, reinstall system... All of these gives lot of fun for people who literally do nothing interesting on computers. I bet that Microsoft give that "reset" option just for people who complain that they must reinstall Windows every month (week? day?) for "some" reason. So Microsoft made them happy. And what if it not working? Well, not so big problem - then Microsoft give you another toy to play with their operating system - USB creator tool, so you can reinstall system. Or made clean install, or whatever makes you happy. Mac users (and linux probably too) have lot of laugh about how Windows users treat their system - apparently Windows must be installed all the time, every week or month, or at least year! Computers are for using them. Operating system is background for hardware and software, it's not final goal to have "system installed". Anyway - if someone prefer made clean install every year, it's his choice. But then - why complain that something goes wrong? I can only agree - something was wrong at the beginning, when someone made a decission to reset / clean install.
  17. Many problems people have on this forum because unnecessary and pointless reinstall or "clean install". If your system works - keep it that way and find different hobby. There are so many things you can do on your computer - all of them more interesting than installing system.
  18. 1. If you want to have full access to folder (no matter what), give full access to "everyone". 2. Not every game save in "Documents" folder. Some of them may use "c:\users\username\appdata\roaming\", others "c:\programdata\" etc. 3. You may use Procmon tool to check where your game save files.
  19. First of all - why you destroyed working system? All tests shows that if we're talking about system, there is no difference in speed between ssd and nvme (you can notice difference when you'll use nvme for handling large files like video processing). So you can keep your ssd with system and use nvme as second drive (for programs, games, video etc). But if you must install system on nvme, you can find hundreds of topics on this forum.
  20. Yes, just connect your current system to new build, wait for new drivers to be installed and you'll be ok. Many people recommend to made new install, but mostly because other people recommend that and it's vicious circle. Simplest and fastest will be just plug and check what happens - you always can made fresh install, but do not start with that. Activation is another thing. You should connect your local account to Microsoft account before change if you want to keep your license.
  21. Yes, it's typical and, in most cases, pointless. In OP case it was not important what cpu he has, what kind of ssd he use, what type of ram he use and what bios version he has etc. Please tell me one point in configuration list that can make your answer different. Asking for detailed config is, in many cases, habit. People expect that config, somehow, reveal problem (maybe he has pcie card designed for preventing boot or something like that).
  22. "Up to 75Hz" is not the same as "75Hz". It means that in some conditions (usually when you're using lower resolution) monitor can refresh at 75Hz. Sometimes you may need display port to get proper refresh rate, but probably your monitor is 60Hz and that 75Hz is marketing b***t.
  23. Try to check if settings in bios stays the same after reset / restart. If not, replace battery.
  24. It should be recognized as Windows boot loader in uefi mode. Probably you have set your bios to boot from legacy drive. Change boot to uefi only. And no, detailed spec is useless - you write all that info and what? Was it useful for answer? :) Nevermind, try that bios settings. Uefi boot only, secure boot disabled.
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