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monarchco

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  1. My computer will randomly lose internet connection progressively on ONE computer. What I mean by this is that it'll lose certain connectivity features, without losing others. For example, when it happens I can keep watching the youtube video I have pulled up (and it will continue to buffer past its current buffer point), but I can not load any new web pages. Additionally, I will suddenly no longer be able to send any discord messages, or pull up a discord server not already pulled up, but I can continue to receive messages on my current discord server. I can even see the messages I send from my phone on the same discord server, but again, any attempts to send messages from this computer just error out when sending. On steam I will still be able to send and receive messages correctly, additionally I can continue playing MMO/online games at this point without issue (but again, can't load any new web pages anywhere) - after a little while longer, then I lose all connection, including current youtube videos will hit the end of their buffer and not continue loading buffer, discord will disconnect me, and I'll lose connection to whatever game I'm playing. Something this issue will resolve itself over several hours. Alternatively, rebooting my computer immediately restores the connection. Rebooting the router also immediately restores the connection. Or I can go into advanced network settings, disable the network adapter, enable the network adapter, and that restores the connection (though the connection appears to drop again quicker this last way compared to rebooting the PC). Originally this issue was happening on wifi, so I ran a brand new ethernet cord to the PC, but the issue was identical. Furthermore, none of the other devices, including 4 other computers have this issue on this network, it is only this computer. This is an issue I've been having for several months, but its been getting progressively worse/more frequent over time. Originally it wouldn't even disconnect fully - it would only go into the state of not sending discord messages, and not loading new webpages, but could still play games and watch video content of youtube/streaming services already pulled up. The complete connection loss (discord disconnects fully, can't play multiplayer games, etc) is a recent development within the past month or so. This computer is quite robust. its a 4090 and an i9 13900k both on a shared custom loop that I did myself. The motherboard is a gigabyte Z790 aorus master. Windows 11 is on a 980pro. For the first 6 months or so of this PC being complete, there were no network issues. The first network issues began immediately after 1 event. 1) Comcast switching the entire neighborhood over from the old wires to the new fiber system. A lot of other individuals in the neighborhood reported starting having issues around this point too. - Though since it is ONLY this PC and none of the other PCs or devices on the network, I'm not sure how it could be related. I've updated the bios 3 different times since this issue first began (three different bio revisions, that's how long this issue has been going), I've updated windows at least a dozen times. I've updated all drivers I could find, including downloading the Killer wireless utility (this was back when the issue was on wifi, before I ran an ethernet line), the ethernet adapter is a different brand though, but again the issue is the same. I've even tried connecting to a different router (I have two different routers ran to the modem). Nothing at all puts a dent into this issue. Sometimes the issue appears after several hours of using the computer, sometimes the issue appears after just a few minutes since the last restart. I really don't want to have to reinstall windows, because basically none of my programs are on my C drive where windows keeps them active, they're all on different drives. I've successfully tweaked and fixed issues in registry before, but it was never network related. I'd be more inclined to go this route if anyone thinks it could potentially be a fix without doing a completely clean Windows install that'll take several days straight to fix all my programs again. Please I'll gladly take any help from anyone who actually reads this and recommends something that I haven't already explicitly stated I've done.
  2. Dude. You can't vacuum a bare motherboard that happens to have a giant open air cooler on the cpu. Nevermind the fact the only way you're vacuuming it is with the motherboard completely exposed and not even in a case really. That's just about the worst thing you could possibly recommend. you're obviously trying to intentionally give just absurdly bad recommendations so you can proceed to claim you "tried to help", and spite me. How hard is it to just recommend a: - sealed computer - decent i5 - no gpu I literally posted an example of what I need, but with a weaker cpu than what I need, and that's significantly smaller than what I need. I want what I posted, but larger to adequately cool a better cpu.
  3. its like you're intentionally ignoring what I'm saying and just trying to provide answers to spite me, and not to actually help.
  4. Where you're working is very clearly not my working environment. This is open table sheet sized CNC machines that make a mess. These are not tormachs that are tiny enclosed machines and might produce a little dust in the air. If you stick a computer on the ground next to the cnc, its going to have an inch of sawdust on top of it after a ***single day***. I do NOT want airflow. I want passive cooling. I want something I can slap on the side of a panel of mdf and vacuum the outside of at the same time everything else gets vacuumed. And as I mentioned before, I don't want full tier i7. I want a low tier i7, or a high tier i5. an i3 won't cut off, and a moderate to high i7 is too much power.
  5. The issue with putting one in a dust free spot is that it has to either be: A) placed far away from the machinery its controlling or B) placed within a sealed container, and if the pc has active fan cooling, than a sealed container completely defeats that purpose and I'm better off with a passively cooled computer in the first place. And to your first comment, I can't use a filtered pc either. This is a full woodworking company with multiple cnc machines. Despite me running several air filtration units specifically for this setting, I'm replacing their filters approximately monthly. Combined recirculation time is around 5 minutes, so the air is pretty healthy to breathe, but the control station for each cnc needs to be right to it. Most people in the business just built dedicated cabinets that are completely sealed, and sometimes even have full weather stripping for seal. Maybe its just because I am more "techy" than the majority of people doing this, or maybe its because I have a 4090 and 13900k that I've done a custom hardline on sitting right next to me, but I associate completely sealed chambers with no air flow as a big "no no" for computer cooling. So therefore I'd prefer something that was designed out of the box to be passively cooled. It doesn't have to be the one I posted in my OP either, which I think is IP65. So long as its IP64, or IP63 minimum it should be fine for the application since this setting doesn't use machining coolant, and water is nowhere near.
  6. Yeah I could benefit from some real suggestions if anyone has them. I'm looking for a sealed computer. Not running cables outside into a shed through underground wiring.
  7. not enough for that. Almost all my compressed air is used by cnc machines.
  8. not a ton, but nothing basic either. Preferably a low tier 12th or 13th gen i7, or high tier i5. Or their amd equivalents. Either way it basically has to run passively. No need for a dgpu.
  9. I'm looking for a system that can exist in a very dusty environment. This system is going to be the controller pc for a CNC router. With the dusty environment I intend to use a sealed silicone mouse and keyboard. I've not been having great luck finding something sufficient that isn't very overpriced for what it is. (I'm half of the mind to take a normal tower and just seal it up inside a cabinet with no ventilation.... the issue is: no ventilation) Here's what I've currently landed on: https://silentpc.com/fanless-pcs/waterproof-pc But I would love alternative options if anyone has any recommendations.
  10. How can I go about doing a fresh win11 install without incurring a cost? I believe a win11 upgrade from 10 would still be "free"(suck out all my user data for MS)
  11. I've not gone into the bios yet, partly because of the issues with monitors not coming back up, or only one of them comes back up, etc when rebooting. My comment was based on the spec sheet provided by gigabyte, where the only mention of TPM is under internal IO as "1 x Trusted Platform Module (TPM) header (2x6 pin, for the GC-TPM2.0_S module only)"
  12. As far as I've been able to find, you can ONLY enable TPM if your motherboard has a TPM chip on it. Mine does not. Only a port for a module. That's part of why its called a *module*
  13. That's probably not going to happen. It looks like I need to purchase this (https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Motherboard-Accessory-GC-TPM2-0_S-Bulk/dp/B07815MJVT - it seems my motherboard only has a TPM port, and no actual TPM module, and needs a module like that in order to have TPM), in order to even see if Microsoft will let me upgrade to windows 11. Because right now it flat out says I have no tpm module, so I'm not allowed to have win11. And this is a very high end Z390 board, but who the hell could have known at that time(2 and a half years before win11) that microsoft was suddenly going to throw this curveball of mandating tpm on custom-built/diy machines? God I really hate microsoft.
  14. I've been dealing with this garbage problem for over a year now, and I'm so sick and tired of it. I really hate Microsoft at this point and how not a single product of theirs that I've bought in the past 10 years has just *worked* without immense effort or frustration. So I apologize for any tone in this post. Here's the premise. I run Windows 10 on a very beefy system(2080ti, 9900k, 32gb ram, 2x 980pro SSDs, GPU and CPU on a shared custom loop, where the 9900k maxes at 69*[nice] under load). I have 2 different monitors, one from Asus, one from LG. Besides the fact that one is 27", and the other 32" - they are both HDR(vesa HDR600), 4k, high refresh rate monitors(I believe the asus is 165hz technically, but both are ran are 144hz). Both monitors are connected to the card via DP. I have a valve index technically connected to the gpu as well, however I keep its dedicated power strip powered off, so the computer never appears to even see the headset unless I'm using it. Here's the issue. *Every time I start any game in fullscreen it is completely fine* If I EXIT, or ALT-TAB, or any other variety of lose focus on this fullscreen game, my computer has an absolute aneurysm. 1 or both screens will alternative between desktop and a black screen, windows explorer very obviously crashes and restarts(sometimes multiple times during this), the monitors may report that there is no signal for extended periods of time, fan speed slows down to absolute minimum rpm, the color pattern on my case fans may freeze(or stop entirely resetting to all white as if the color program crashed), and sometimes it stays completely black and obviously my computer has crashed. Youtube videos/audio will pause/buffer during this time, and IF my desktop does eventually come back up and snap out of this absolute seizure-activity its engaging in, it may take 5 or more minutes to get there. Sometimes, one monitor may come back up, but the other simply doesn't come back up after this, without completely unplugging it, then plugging it back in(power cycling doesn't fix it). Sometimes both come back up. Sometimes the computer is obviously crashed and I have to force shutdown from the power button, then start back up. I do NOT have this problem at all with borderless-windowed games, or windowed games. Unfortunately some games do not have a borderless option, or require me to enter the game in order to switch to borderless. If I switch from fullscreen to borderless within the game, windows still throws an absolute temper tantrum. My SUSPICIONS based off observations: 1. Even when running a single display(not multi-monitor), windows still freaked out when alt-tabbing out of *fullscreen* games, especially ones with dedicated HDR modes. 2. I'm fairly certain this has a direct relation to how Windows is handling HDR monitors, and full-screen games that "take over" a monitor. 3. This has persisted through probably 2 dozen Nvidia drivers, including fresh graphics driver installs. So I sincerely doubt Nvidia is to blame. 4. Again, borderless window does NOT invoke this problem, so its highly likely this is related to the specific handling of HDR and fullscreen programs. 5. I experience no signs of instability besides this, and have stress tested ram, cpu, and gpu without any hint of problem. The fact that windows explorer is visibly crashing(taskbar vanishing, becoming unresponsive then repopulating, etc) tells me it is probably a microsoft problem with their garbage operating system. I really want to solve this problem, because its infinitely frustrating every time I have to deal with this. However there are things I won't do. 1. I am not willing to disable HDR. I enjoy how HDR looks over SDR content, especially in games that properly leverage it. Even with monitors only HDR600 rated. 2. I am not willing to switch to linux. As much as I wish there was a real competitor to windows(and I didnt have to use a trash microsoft product), linux aint it for me. 3. I am not willing to use a VM for gaming. I want to be able to launch, use, then close fullscreen games without feeling like I'm playing roulette on if my PC is about to crash and require me to force shutdown. Edit: oh it also has the same behavior if the monitors go to sleep and wake back up, potentially crashing the whole system upon the monitors becoming active again. Because of this, a very long time I outright disabled monitor sleep for power settings as a workaround which has worked for that.
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