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TwoBigBalls

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  1. Imma work this backwards. Re-activating windows : If my memory isn't too far gone already, windows activates based on a key and association. If you're logged into a microsoft account this will be far easier and may not even be an issue when the time comes. You do NOT have to wipe ANYTHING. It's recommended purely because of driver congestion (I made that up) - excess files existing that are no longer needed, referenced and may potentially cause issues down the line. How likely is it in my experience? Never had an issue. Done it dozens of times for customers. I "clean up" the old drivers by force and love with software easily google-able. Ideally without the extra viruses. The only issues I see is this: CPU Cooler If you have an aftermarket one is it compatible with the (new?) chipset? If you threw the AMD brackets away and go from a core duo to a threadripper, is that lil puppy going to fit? Does your new CPU come with one or do you intend to buy one? RAM Odds are any real performance upgrade from couple year old hardware to todays (mobo & CPU) is going to likely introduce new ram. DDR3 =/= DDR4. Make sure of this. Then double check it. Do you have enough SATA ports I hope I don't need to explain. Motherboard size. If you have a micro ATX case with a micro ATX board, odds are your E-ATX board likely isn't going to fit without a dremel tool.
  2. I mean.. update me in 24hrs. https://kingpincooling.com/products/venom-anodized-blue
  3. Sold 90% of it for exactly what I paid for it six months earlier to a local guy who owns a pc part business here. Can't complain, got out just before crypto took a turn south. Only part I really miss is the heat keeping my place warm all winter.
  4. There's a Ti version and a Ti founders edition for 1080's. Personally I like the 1080ti FE, the blower... blows. If you're going to put the coin down and have the room for it, I'd recommend standalone watercooled mods to the 1080ti FE. I run an Nvidia 1080ti FE on the EVGA watercooler built for it and rarely even tip toe into 58C+ conditions. The standard blower however will run at a real peachy 70C+ temp, but being as close as they are to each other in my MOBO I opted to put the upgraded cooler 1080ti in the top slot since airflow would be limited. You can run a loop, nobody can stop you. You can blow a decent portion of your budget keeping those temps as low as possible however you'll risk a lot if they are all connected to each other. For the money, I'd opt for hybrid cooling solutions for each individual card. Better to have one go than the whole shebang - if you do opt to replace coolers. The Arctic III seems pretty reliable as well for aftermarket and fairly priced as well w/o having radiators going anywhere. All the PCIe adapters! I get about 62GH/s for MD5 ~ but don't do much other than game and run my own pen-test scenarios. I was using two mobos/cpus and each had a 1080ti. One with Parrot OS and the other Windows 10 for games. But I realized it's a bit of a waste since I already use Parrot OS on my laptop, I can just send the work I need to my Windows rig and either run the Kali APP in the windows store, VM an OS or, what I mostly do, just run HashcatGUI since it supports Windows. I wish I still had my mining rig... It'd be peachy.
  5. Just stalked this guys profile a bit. He checks out.
  6. Obviously for research purposes. As far as optimization goes and utilizing the best of what you have, 1080ti's seem to be "king" for this. Personally I use two with 1100kh-1200kh/s for testing my own network. Can't complain, but without knowing what hardware you want/need I think you'll be more limited by your capabilities to understand the software you use. See : https://hashcat.net/wiki/doku.php?id=mask_attack I would recommend building your own skillset before dropping a pretty dime on such hardware. In traditional Brute-Force attack we require a charset that contains all upper-case letters, all lower-case letters and all digits (aka “mixalpha-numeric”). The Password length is 9, so we have to iterate through 62^9 (13.537.086.546.263.552) combinations. Lets say we crack with a rate of 100M/s, this requires more than 4 years to complete. In Mask attack we know about humans and how they design passwords. The above password matches a simple but common pattern. A name and year appended to it. We can also configure the attack to try the upper-case letters only on the first position. It is very uncommon to see an upper-case letter only in the second or the third position. To make it short, with Mask attack we can reduce the keyspace to 52*26*26*26*26*10*10*10*10 (237.627.520.000) combinations. With the same cracking rate of 100M/s, this requires just 40 minutes to complete.
  7. Personally I wouldn't recommend using the cig-lighter outlet for anything over 150W. Most are rated at 15 amps with the most I've seen, from the factory, 20 amps. So 12V * 15A = 180W, which doesn't include a "peak" or initial surge. Unless you're using a higher quality inverter with high quality capacitors in it to handle that initial flow, I'd look more into a battery wired one. Can be found for ~$50 USD for 3-400W rates easily capable of handling that with USB ports if you need. Just don't leave it on
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