Ektelion

The i7 8700K is basically the equivalent of a Ryzen 5 3600X or an Intel i5 10400. Maybe a tiny bit better, but not by much.
You should upgrade the platform first. 
 
Watch this video, your path will become clearer.
 

The 3200 Mhz would perform better due to tighter timing.
But it's the difference between 8.75 ns and 10.00 ns. You wouldn't even notice it, ever, outside of benchmarks.
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAS_latency
 
The equation is as follow ( CAS / Command Rate ) * 1000 
Which gives you (18 / 1800)*1000=10
and (14 / 1600)*1000=8.75
 
(Command rate is literally just half of the speed advertised on the stick. 1600 for 3200 MHz and 1800 for 3600 MHz)

I have a system with i7 8700k 2x 8gb ram 3200 Mhz Cl 14 <-- this maters RTX 2080 Ti with a 3440x1440p 120 hz monitor.

All i can say is i am hardly able to reach 120 fps in most modern games with everything turned ultra.

Pubg for example i am usually playing on the range of 100~120 but on games like Battlefield V Shadow of the tomb Raider i get drops to 80 aswell sometimes.

3440x1440p is no joke resolution even for the most high end card in the market.

Just think about it, a 3440x1440p monitor has 1/3 more pixels than a 2560x1440p, its 1/3 heavier than a regular 16:9 monitor. 

Check out the Video for the FPS only, no comments on gameplay  
 

 

I had a card a few years ago that had pretty bad coil whine, they accepted it for RMA. In return I got a card which was better, but a whine was still present.
Its not that loud and honestly I wouldn't worry about it in your case.
 
1500 euros yeah, but its one of the most common things with video cards. Write Asus a stern email about it

It isn't a design or quality issue but you can RMA it. There's a decent chance that the new one is louder. 
 
If you need to make it quieter, watch Buildzoid's recent video on how to fix coil whine (take the card apart and basically goop RTV silicon around the sides of the VRM inductors, allowing it to cure to hold their components in place and prevent rattling which is what you're hearing). 

i have the same card and mine is way louder, i think yours isn't ''that'' bad, i would not RMA it just because you're probably get a new one  that's even worse.

Yes, size.  
For performance and noise, they're practically the same. They use a different platform, since they're shorter. 

Yeah, pretty much

Credit to @Starelementpokeand @Energycore for helping out with this long-awaited refresh of the old PSU tier list by Aniallation (who previously went several months without logging in), leaving the old list in need of help. This is simply an update of the list that was flawed in creation by the PCMR subreddit and in dire need of a refresh.
 
This list is subject to change as new PSUs come out on a regular basis and standards may change or issues with units on the list may develop. A list of PSUs awaiting a tier on this list is at the bottom.
 
Tier 1 - Best
Aerocool - Project 7 Antec - High Current Pro, High Current Platinum be Quiet! - Dark Power Pro P10, Dark Power Pro 11, Straight Power 11 Bitfenix - Whisper Cooler Master - V-series (modular, not to be confused with the VSM), MasterWatt Maker Corsair - AX, AXi, HXi, RMi, RMx, SF, grey-label HX (2017), 2017 TXM greater than 650W Enermax - Platimax, Platimax Digifanless EVGA - G2, P2, PS, T2, 1000G1, 850W and above GS FSP - Aurum PT Gigabyte -  Aorus AP850GM LEPA - G1600 NZXT Hale90V2 Seasonic - X, Platinum, Snow Silent, all Fanless units, Prime (all series) Sentey - Platinum Power, Golden Steel Power Silverstone - Nightjar Super Flower - Leadex Gold/Platinum/Titanium, Leadex II Thermaltake - 1250D-T RGB, Toughpower Grand/RGB 1200W XFX - Pro Gold, Pro Black, XTS Tier 2
Antec - EDGE, TruePower Classic, EarthWatts Gold Pro Azza - Platinum be Quiet! - Pure Power 10 400W or greater Bitfenix - Formula Gold Cooler Master - VSM-series (semi-modular) Corsair - Most RM variants, HX (old), 550W/650W 2017 TXM, Vengeance Enermax - Digifanless, RG, GX EVGA - GQ, B2, 550W and 650W GS, GD, G3, G1+ (not to be confused with the G1) Fractal Design - Edison M, Tesla R2 650W/1000W, Newton R3 FSP - Hydro G, Dagger SFX Gigabyte - XP1200M Kolink - Continuum NZXT - Hale82 N higher-wattage versions Riotoro - Enigma Rosewill - Quark, Fortress, Capstone Seasonic - S12G, G-series/SSRM, M12II 750W/850W, Focus Plus Gold/Platinum, Focus Gold Sentey - Solid Power SS Silverstone - Strider Platinum Super Flower - Golden Green, Leadex Silver Thermaltake - Toughpower Grand/RGB, Toughpower Grand Platinum, Toughpower DPS Platinum XFX -  Pro XXX, XTR, TS Gold Tier 3
Antec - Neo ECO II be Quiet! - Straight Power E10 Bitfenix - Fury  Cooler Master - MasterWatt Corsair - 2017 "Grey unit" CXM***, CSM, some RM variants, 2017 CX - 450W CX have one PCIe connection Cougar - GX-S Deepcool - DQ-ST Enermax -  Enermax Revolution SFX 650W*** EVGA -  BQ 750W and up Fractal Design - Tesla R2, Integra M FSP - Hydro X, Aurum CM, Aurum Pro Lian Li - SFX-L LEPA - G600 NZXT - Hale82 N lower-wattage units OCZ - ZX PC Power & Cooling - Silencer Mk III, Turbo Cool Riotoro - Onyx Rosewill - Lightning, Silent Night, Tachyon, Photon Silverstone - Gold Evolution, Strider Gold, SX650/700/800 SFX, Strider Titanium Super Flower - Platinum King Thermaltake - DPS Gold/RGB, London, BlueEvo 2.0, Smart Pro RGB, Smart series >= 750W Vivo - 24K 650W XFX - Core > 650W, ProSeries Bronze >650W Zalman - EBT Tier 4
Antec - EarthWatts/EA Green, Earthwatts Platinum, High Current Gamer, Neo Eco  be Quiet! - Power Zone, Pure Power L9, Straight Power E9, Pure Power L8 Corsair - Old CXM "Green unit" variants, Rev. 3 "Green unit" variants, GS-series Cooler Master - GM, GX Storm, MWE Cougar - LX Enermax - Revolution X't EVGA - BQ under 750W, NEX Gold, B3 Fractal Design - Tesla R2 500W Inwin - Classic Series PowerSpec - PSX GFM Rosewill - Capstone G Seasonic - SS, SSP, S12II/M12II, ECO 430W Silverstone - Strider Plus, Gold SFX Thermaltake - Toughpower Gold, Paris XFX - TS Bronze Tier 5
Antec - Basiq VP-F, Basiq BP be Quiet! - Pure Power 10 under 400W. Corsair - Rev. 2 CX "Green unit" variants, VS "grey units" Enermax - NaXn 82+ EVGA - 450B/500B/600B/700B, NEX-B OCZ - ZT, ModXStream Rosewill - Glacier Silverstone - Bronze SFX XFX - XT Tier 6
Antec - Basiq VP Bitfenix - BPA Cooler Master - B2 Corsair - VS "orange units" EVGA - 430W/500W/600W 80 PLUS units FSP - Raider Silver Fractal Design - Integra R2 LEPA - MX-F1 NZXT - Hale82 V2 OCZ - Fatal1ty Rosewill - Hive, ARC (M) Silverstone - Strider Essential Thermaltake - LitePower, ToughPower, Smart series < 750W Zalman - GS/GT Tier 7 - Worst
Cooler Master - Elite series EVGA - 400W non-80 PLUS certified FSP - Hexa Thermaltake - TR2 These are all crap  
Currently awaiting more info
 
Some things on this list may not be perfect. Let me know if you believe a PSU is undeserving of its spot on here and provide links to back up your claim and it may be moved. 
 
Some helpful links:
 
How Many Watts Do I Need? - How much power will you need for your system? This guide helps you get a PSU that has more than adequate wattage for you.
80 PLUS Efficiency and What It Really Means - general guide to 80 PLUS efficiency and what it entails. Currently pinned on the Cases & Power Supplies subforum.
 

 
Ask any questions below! 
 
How do you even grade these things? ***
But I don't like Tier Lists!!!!111!!!!
 

Considering i have to pay 35% less for 20% less performance, yes i'd be fine if you ask me but i don't know what's got wrong with me in the end and i wanted the best Gpu on the market for one time and i went yolo.

If money is not a problem then there is no more discussion here i guess, just buy the RTX 2080 Ti
 

You can take a look on this video for fps comparison with a 2080 Ti Oc
 
Everything ultra and 3440x1440p 120 hz monitor usually always playing above 100 fps constantly.

I would recommend a 2080 instead though, 2080 Ti is quite the overkill. take what brand you think you like the most, everything performs the same way except some extra cooling and a bunch of leds.

No i think it just runs like a turd on all machines. Just EA not giving a fuck.
 

Honest opinion https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Alienware-Monitor-Resolution-Overclocked/dp/B0777RY75V/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539899141&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dell+aw3418dw 

Once you go ultrawide, you never go back trust me. 

You need a lot of new stuff to actually get a decent upgrade, the only thing worth keeping i guess is the graphics card.
Dont get me wrong, by no means i say you cannot keep gaming but if you want my opinion first of all you need to step up and get to DDR4 memory on your Ram  which  as we both know requires a new motherboard and the new motherboard requires a new CPU.

As a WoW player myself, i know its very CPU demanding game, the first thing you should change is that.

CPU+Mobo+Ram go package, and that's gonna cost you a bit. 



 

You don't really have the money for a 1440p/144 monitor.