MRZL1

The cooler might not be enough if it will see heavy work. I too use a threadripper 1950x stock clocks and under any consistent workload the temp would hit 70+C on the cpu via ryzen master using an H115i. The coldplate is simply too small vs the IHS on the CPU. I then got an enermax liqtech 360 tr4 (designed for TR) and a few months later it started to fail. RMA'd it and got another only for it to suffer the same fate after a few weeks. I eventually went with a custom loop using EK parts. Idles at 26-28c and doesnt go over 48c under load. Best cooler for TR is definately a custom loop if your budget allows it. If not, I would look at the Noctua cpu coolers designed for threadripper if going with air.

Nicehash is a good alternative if you dont want to do the guesswork on which coin to focus on. It will automatically mine what is most profitable based what specific hardware you have. The payout is always in bitcoin and you can even use an external wallet but I believe the payout threshold required when using an external wallet is higher when compared to their internal wallet.

The iPPC line is tailored to commercial/industrial apps from my understanding no? Does the build quality reflect this vs the normal noctuas when comparing?

Do the iPPCs at least perform better at the same RPM or the difference is minuscule at best vs the normal ones.

I have both a 1TB 850 PRO and a 1TB 970 EVO... for gaming it did not make the slightest difference 1 vs the other. Load times/launching were practically identical. For sustained/consistent performance, the 970 EVO is clearly out on top. For just gaming, either SATA3 or M.2 NVME will easily get the job done.

Hey guys, I wanted to get some opinions discussing the 2 products listed on the title. Enermax TB Pressure specs: vs Noctua NF-F12 Are the Noctua's worth the premium $$/additional noise for the added performance vs the Enermax offering? I already have the TB Pressures since they came with the LIQTECH AIO and was wondering if it would be worthwhile to jump to the 3k RPM Noctua due to the additional performance they offer. Thanks in advance!

May I ask where you this power feature in the BIOS since I have the same MOBO as you and what fixed voltage you went with? I want to try this myself once I get home and see how it performs for me.

You had mentioned before you tried the same steps on an older prebuilt system and didnt experience these issues. Sorry if I misunderstood. FYI since the folding rewards are all sent to the counterparty wallet, you would have to transfer the funds from BRD -> Counterparty if you want to trade/dabble on counterparty To condense it as much as possible: You will obviously need the Folding client which can be found here: https://foldingathome.org/ 1) You can download the FoldingBrowser from the FoldingCoin site and follow all the steps listed on the tutorial guide on their website. Keep in mind, you will automatically be set up to fold for the Curecoin team and also be set up with a Curecoin wallet address and respective client if you follow this route since the browser pretty much automates the entire installation process of what you would need. The browser is considered bloatware by many but for someone who isnt comfortable installing/working their way around a PC, it is a good approach to set them up with the "merge folding" should they follow the right steps explained in the tutorial. 2) You can do it manually as well, although it will take more time but all in all you will need the following: - Folding@home client installed - Folding@home username setup with the counterparty wallet address into the username. If you are unsure of how this accomplished, it is mentioned in their tutorial guides on the foldingcoin site. - Folding@home passkey to get those QRB points - Counterparty wallet I won't elaborate too much since this has nothing to do with the topic on this thread. Feel free to PM me if you want to dive down this rabbit hole.

Using Folding@home to earn FoldingCoin Within the past 5 months (on and off because the PC isn’t on 24/7 100%) I’m at about .0002715 BTC and 4500ish FoldingCoin. This was with a 2600k and GTX980. I guess the point I’m trying to get across is that for a fun factor you can dive into Folding and unlike traditional crypto mining, your work could help contribute to the next whitepaper published on a major disease and you get more than 1 currency to trade, like you said, not to get “rich” quick but to have fun and see what other alternatives you can come up with as result of being able to trade. I’m not trying to sell you this but it seems like you’re trying to make it work with the software you’re utilizing to mine bitcoin that is contributing to the lockups and it may very well be the software is poorly coded and runs better on other systems (your prebuilt vs custom example). I just don’t like seeing others struggling to find the cat’s 5th leg when there are other options out there.

Yes I meant 1440p. After the reading the following I realized 2K could refer to a wide variety of different types of resolutions: My estimate though was more closely referring to IPS panels which I did not specify and that’s my bad. Those 1440p Dell TN panels sure do look like a sweet bargain.

Strength in Numbers

Look at all these glorious memes...

I experienced something similar to the "hanging/freezing" you're going thru. It would only occur when I would first boot the PC as it was loading drivers/software. Other than that, it would never occur again even when the CPU was pegged at 100%. Between monitoring software/individual hardware component swaps... I eventually narrowed it down to the integrated creative labs chip software for the mobo. Some software, regardless of PC components, will just run like complete garbage if it's poorly coded. I would consider looking at other software alternatives if you dont want to abandon mining on a CPU. You're probably better off setting the CPU for Folding@home to get FoldingCoin (Counterparty Wallet FYI) and you get awarded a small chunk of BTC along with FoldingCoin in proportion to your contribution power. You can even fold for the LTT team, its up to you. I wouldnt keep mining with the software youre using. It's the only constant out of all the variables youve mentioned.

The 250gb PNY SSD, I’m assuming that’s the OS/Games drive, what % of the total capacity is being used?

This right here!!! Most Z370 MOBOs with today's tech are more than capable of handling an overclock. I came from a 2600k (back when Intel soldered the IHS aka QUALITY!) that I pushed as far 4.9GHZ using 1.35v (wasnt using offset voltage at the time aka 1.35v ALL DA TIME!) on a G1 Sniper 2 using 2x 8gb DIMM DDR3 1600. It was really high for my comfort as a 24/7 build so I dropped it to 4.5GHZ 1.13v. I couldnt get it 5GHZ stable for the life of me. But that is neither here nor there. Hopefully you're sitting down while you're reading this, if not, grab a seat and a drink. I'm going to try and condense this as much as I can since this was my personal experience with the sandy overclocking adventure and like all other things, your mileage may vary. I'm only listing factors to keep an eye out for and not a direct approach on the methodology to the actual overclocking process since that can get very technical and i'm sure there are great guides out in the interwebs discussing this. 1) Silicon Lottery - This is the most important factor bar none, like a game of poker, you have to try and make due with the hand you're dealt. Some chips (get it? poker and computer both use chips LOL) are just better overclockers than others considering all other things being equal (RAM, cooling, mobo etc...). A good overclocking chip will be stable under full load with little to no extra voltage added. My personal advice, do not chase a number, you will be setting yourself up for failure if you do not reach it. DO NOT try to chase a magical core clock # at the expense of shoving voltage until it stabilizes. Take it a 100MHz notch down and see where you stand. If you're stable with little to no extra voltage juice added, leave it at that. Consider it your BiS (Best-in-Slot) overclock. The silicone gods can be very very cruel and a couple 100MHz will not make a noticeable difference performance wise in ANYTHING you do. Completely disregard what I just said if the purpose is to benchmark and place a spot on a benchmark leaderboard. This is also where exotic cooling methods such as Phase change, LN2 and Liquid Helium come into play. 2) Cooling - Not having adequate cooling will dictate how far you go. HEAT is always your enemy especially when you're pushing voltage to stabilize an OC. Getting the heat under control should take precedence over anything. HEAT is what will shorten to lifespan of components. 3) Motherboard - Now that you have your chip and cooling factors identified, IMO the aspect of any Mobo you should ONLY be looking at is the power delivery and how many phases it is utilizing if OC is all you care about. I did all of my overclocking without none of the modern day flash I see now on my ROG ZE X399. If i were to do it all over again with Sandy, I would have gone with something like a GA-Z68X-UD7-B3 which had 24 phases since it wouldve been a 24/7 runner vs the 8 phase the G1 Sniper 2 had. Also keep in mind that the phases aren't all dedicated for the CPU. Some goes to the RAM and other neighboring areas. For more in-depth understanding of this I would consider checking out some of Buildzoid's videos or Gamers Nexus as a whole. They both do a really great job diving down the rabbit hole as far the "Knitty Gritty" is concerned when talking about PCB construction/allocation of resources. To summarize, more phases = smoother power delivery = better OC. 4) RAM - This one is a mixed bag for me since I went thru 3 sets of different DDR3 modules before sticking with 2x 8GB Dominator Platinum DDR3 1600. As a general rule of thumb the less DIMMs installed, the slower the speed, the lesser the capacity and Single-Sided instead of Double-Sided, the better. The less stress you place on the memory controller in the CPU, the more overclock headroom you have on the CPU when chasing those last few hundred MHz. 5) PSU - The more efficient the better. My Corsair AX1200 is still running strong. DO NOT SKIMP on a PSU. Get 1 where your 100% load is equal to roughly half of the capacity the PSU is rated for. IE: 600W drawn at full load, 1200W PSU. 50% is usually where most PSUs are the most efficient and do not waste any excess power based on their respective 80 PLUS rating. I believe the higher the 80 PLUS rating, the more efficient they are when going past 50% but it does come with a cost. 6) UPS - Get one that will last you about 10 minutes based on the load your PC/Peripherals will draw at 100%. For me this magical number is 1500VA. You'd be surprised that usually in the event of a disaster, is when your PC will take the longest to save your work/shutdown. I live in an apartment complex and although I have never experienced any troubles with power (Brownouts, Blackouts, Surges etc..) it's better to have it and not need it then to need it and not have it when youre in the middle of OC troubleshooting/backing up. Some UPS's will even filter the power before it reaches the PSU in your PC. Your PSU will forever thank you because it won't need to work as hard. Experience is the sum of all your mistakes, and when it comes to overclocking, you WILL make some since it consists of a "Trial and Error" approach (hopefully not the detrimental ones like frying your CPU). As the saying goes... Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad. Hopefully this post helps you narrow down your choices as far components are concerned when considering overclocking as a priority. Please feel free to correct me/question anything i've mentioned. I'm here to learn as well.