jones177

They are not too bad. This is my i9 11900k at stock using a Noctua D15 with a single fan. The CPU was too expensive at launch and was not an upgrade for a i9 10900k, so not a good buy. At $350 it is a good buy.

Good question. Going by my Cinebench screen shots it depends on the CPU and the cooling. The lowest temps I got with my 5900x using a 360mm AIO. That was 66c. The highest is my i9 10900kf at 88c with a 360mm AIO. My i9 9900k does 76c with a Noctua D15. I consider them all good for what they are.

I had one of those big Sony TVs. It was 195lbs and came with its own stand. At the time I bought it there no 1080i content and It was long gone before I played any game at 1080. It was replaces by a 55" Sony LCD projection TV that was a disaster for gaming.

Some cards do that in some cases. With my EVGA cards the fans do not come on until the GPU hits between 56 and 60c. Also if you have selected Prefer maximum performance in the Nvidia control panel it will do that as well. You have to reboot the computer to see the difference.

They are about the same so get the one on sale. I mainly use Crucial because I have ones(MX300) that I bought in 2016 that are still doing fine.

The OP has a 5800x and I am showing a possible upgrade. There seems to be quit a few posts about that lately. As for my Lambos I can thank Covid for those. When I retired I thought I would be going on cruises and sight seeing trips but instead I became a shut-in. So I am maxing out my shut-in experience as best I can.

With a 3090 you will benefit from a CPU upgrade to a 5900x. If you had a 3070 you would not. I would not go with a 5950x unless you need the cores and want to replace you motherboard. Your AIO is fine if you are happy with the temps. Your motherboard is not one I would buy, but if you are having no issues with it, keep it until you do. It is a good reason not the buy a 5950x and go with a 5900x. With a PSU go with what you have until it becomes a problem. Since you are 1440p gamer a DDR 5 system may be more beneficial to you but that is an upgrade for next year. I play at 4k so GPU bound with the fastest CPUs that are available are now. That may not change with next gen so I am on the fence when it comes to a DDR5 system. As for your HDDs. Your system is as slow as the slowest drive on it thanks to Windows. So it is best to have HDDs remote. I replaced mine with SATA SSDs and now I am starting the process of replacing those. I am now feeling the difference with PCIe 4 drives since I have it in 2 computers. My older systems that don't have it don't feel fast any more. An upgrade I would do is go OLED. I have nice monitors like my LG 3840 X 1600 ultrawide but they don't come close to the OLEDs for gaming.

I never had a 2080 paired with my 5800x but I did have a 2080 ti. This is the difference in one game between a 2080 ti and a 3080 ti. Shadow of the Tomb Raider, Highest Preset. 1080p 1440p 4k FTW3 Ultra 2080 ti 160fps 122fps 73fps FTW3 Ultra 3080 ti 198fps 163fps 96fps Going from a 2080 to a 3080 will be about the same gain. To me this is a good upgrade.

Yes. Mine is cooled by a D-15 with a single fan. For 2 years it had an all core 5ghz overclock. Now it is using MCE and still stays cool. It is listed below.

I used all 480 watts with my FTW3 Ultra 3090 ti with +100 on the core and +1000 on the ram and got zero extra frames in games so far. If there was any gain at all I would have continued but since there was non I will stay at stock.

Some 3080s draw more power than 3080 tis so it is best to get to know the difference in the cards. The range is from 320 to 400 watts stock so what card you pick may influence your PSU choice. I like these videos for comparing cards. I picked 1000 since I had issues with my 2080 tis and 850 PSUs. Using 1000 watt PSUs fixed the problem. I am sure that it was something to do with the motherboard, GPU combination but it was cheaper to replace the PSU than the other parts.

I installed Assassin's Creed Odyssey on a WD Passport by mistake and it ran 20 frames slower than what it did on a SATA SSD. I thought something was wrong with my computer before I realized my mistake. A game that is level load would do better on one than an open world game like Assassin's Creed Odyssey. I bought a Crucial X6 2TB Portable SSD on Prime day for $139. 1tb versions are well under $100. Now that they are a lot cheaper I plan to replace all my portable HDDs with them. Here are some good videos that show the difference in performance.

I have 3090s and 3090 tis. They are not a all the same so you have to do lots of research on them. My 3090s are MSI Gaming X Trios. I bought them mainly because they have heat pipes on the backplate so the vram is only as hot at the 3080 ti version. The one I have in a gaming rig listed below is a spare for one that is in a productivity rig. Now that I can overnight one it is redundant. My 2 3090 ti are EVGA FTW3 Ultras. They are about 10c cooler on the core and 20c on the vram than my 3090s and 3080 tis. The only GPU that I have had that come close to being as cool was my Strix 3080. Most of my rendering crashed were from heat over time so the cooler the components the better, If the 3090 ti existed earlier I would just use them since they do run cooler.

I agree. Since the MSI is a mid tier card the difference between it and the premium Strix 3090 would be about 5 frames at 4k. So for that price I would go with the Strix. The Strix 3080 ti is a nice card and at 3440 X 1440 it will last longer than it would at 4k. My only grip with it is that it does not come in white. The Strix 3090. The difference in frames with the Stix 3080ti is probably close to zero but I like having the vram. If Normal is selected in the power management mode in the Nvidia control panel the fans do not come on until the GPU hits about 56 to 60c. If Prefer Maximum Performance is selected they will spin all the time. To see the difference you have to reboot the computer. It is the way with all my 30 series cards. If the GPU are in a hot case the fans will spin. With my 3090 ti that I am using now, the fans only come on while gaming and I can't hear them over the case fans. This is the setup I use to keep it cool.

Top Build quality, Quiet, OC headroom. Looks good. Top Build quality, Quiet, no OC headroom. I don't like the looks Would not buy. Good Build quality, Quiet, no OC Headroom. Looks good. I have one. I would take it over the Tuf but not the Strix. Pay more and get a 3090/3090 ti. For a 3090 I would only buy a Strix or a Gaming X Trio. I have 2 MSI 3090s and their vram stays cool since they have heat pipes on the backplate. I sold my Strix 3080 10gb since it did not have enough vram for my modded games. The stuttered in places an crashed in others.

I live in South Florida and at this time of the year there are thunderstorms just about every day and I have never gotten a surge from one. I do use APUs but mainly for brown outs. I have had surges in hurricanes and they even took out my APUs and everything plugged into them. My computers were not plugged in but ended up having damage from the static charge(HDDs). Insurance replaced everything. When I lived in the UK the fuse in the plug was my surge protector so I only used power strips.

When my 5800x and i9 9900k both used RTX 2080 tis they produced about the same amount of frames. When they got 3080 tis the 5800x pulled away at 1080p and 1440p. So to me it is about what GPU your CPU is feeding. If it is a 3070 or less stay with what you have. If it is a 3080 or better you would benefit from an upgrade.

I agree with Jay for slightly different reasons. I consider the GPUs that have price cuts now are luxury items and I don't usually buy luxury goods in a bad economy. To me it does not matter how much better the 40 series is if I don't have the money to buy them. I have the money now so I bought now.

From what I have read the non OC version has the same power limit as the OC version but has a lower base clock. It makes a difference in benches but not much in games. It also has 3x 8 pin connecters like the OC version.

The Strix OC has a target power draw of: 390 watts and Limit of 480 watts. The boost Clock is1860MHz. The Tuf has a target power draw of: 350 watts and Limit of 375 watts. The boost Clock is1695MHz. I would get the Strix OC version and not the Tuf. The reason is my only 350 watt 3080 ti feels power staved compared to my Strix 3080 CO that used 370 watts and my MSI Gaming X Trio 3090s that use 370 watts as well.

I have had PSUs with ribbon cables and have had no issues with them but they do look cheap. All but 2 of my currant builds have sleeved cables and they are stiff and a bit ugly as well. I prefer Individually Sleeved cables since they are not stiff and easy to cable manage. At build time I usually have to cut back on something and it is usually the cables.

10,000rpm HDD drives are a bit dated. I uses them from 2007 to 2016 and replaced them with 1tb SSDs. They were WD VelociRaptors. The VelociRaptors had burst read speeds almost as fast as a SATA SSD and could do writes faster. I used them because they got rid of stutter in open world modded games. These games were unplayable with a 7,200rpm drive. The run time before they wrote errors is about 2 years. None died hard and I can still get data from them. The SSDs that replaced the Raptors are still in use with zero errors. One is listed below. It is a Crucial MX300.

All my 30 series cards thermal throttle at 83c at stock. To see if the throttle limit is crashing your card turn up the power limit with MSI Afterburner since that will bring up the throttle limit up as well. If it still crash it is something else.

I have almost all white cases now. They are easier to build in since spotting a black screw in a white case is not hard. They also look clean longer so less maintenance. It is sort of like a white car vs a black car. Both are better than beige.

I did have a 10gb 3080 for a while and there were games that past 10gbs but only at 4k. 1440p was usually 1gb down so not an issue. To see what your GPU actually uses setup MSI Afterburner to show allocated and dedicated vram. It looks like this.