jones177

It is worth it for the vram alone. I use more than 8gbs in a lot of games and in tests that I have done with modded textures(8k) the experience suffers(not smooth) even on a 3080. Also you have a i9 10900k and I would consider a 3080 minimum for one. One of mine uses a 3090 and the other 2080 ti. If overclocking is your thing maybe hold out for a ROG Strix version. They have 121% on the power limit and can pull over 450 watts with the stock bios. At 1080p mine can beat my EVGA 3080 ti at 1080p but not a 1440p.

With testing my i9 10900k and now my i9 10900kf I find they really need a 360mm AIO. Even with that the fan curve has to be adjusted manually to get through Cinebench R20 without an AVX offset to stop hitting 90c. Also the make of the AIO is important as well. My EK 360mm is 5c cooler than my EVGA 360mm and the EVGA was a fail for the i9 10900k. My new i9 10900kf setup uses a SilverStone PF360. It is my favorite budget AIO. It ides at 28c with an i9 10900k and games in the 60s. The i9 10900k to perform well stock has to stay below 70c. Below 70c it can use thermal velocity boost and that allows it to hit 5.3ghz on a single core when needed. This beats all my overclocked Intels in most games and my 5800x so far in all games. As for air coolers. I am using a Be quiet Dark Rock Pro 4(i7 8700k) and a Noctua nh-d15(i9 9900k) now and they are not suitable for a i9 10900k since they can't keep temps below 70c while gaming.

I have a Streacom BC1 ATX Test Bench. It is best to use a motherboard with an on and off switch and has LEDs for codes. If your choice doesn't have an on and off switch you will need these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FK7BQG9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I mainly use my old computers for the bench like my i7 6700k/ASUS Hero VIII and my i7 8086k/ASUS Hero X. Right now it is empty since the i7 8086k is testing a case. The i9 9900k listed below was on the bench for over a year and ran cool and quite. It stopped liking 2080 tis and it took a year for me to free one up to test. I bought the 5800x(listed below) just for the bench but it was only on it for a month. I basically wanted it to test against the Intels. All my builds start on the Streacom and I do tests to get the ideal temperatures before they go in cases.

That sounds about right for Newegg. I only use them when they have a lower price and I am not in a hurry. My build that is in progress now went like this. CPU = i9 10900kf B&H signature CPU Cooler = SilverStone PF360-ARGB AIO Newegg Motherboard = GIGABYTE Z490 AORUS Master Amazon Memory = CORSAIR Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (4 x 8GB)DDR4 4000 Newegg Storage = Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe Amazon Video Card = MSI Gaming GeForce RTX 3080 Ti Gaming X Trio Newegg Shuffle signature Case = Lian Li O11 Dynamic B&H PSU = EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G+ Newegg OS = Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit Newegg UPS USPS(took the longest) Case Fans = 3 SilverStone Technology AB120R-ARGB Air Blazer 120mm PWM Newegg So only two signatures and the Newegg UPS USPS took the longest. Amazon sent the GIGABYTE Z490 AORUS Master box in a plastic bag. Fortunately it worked. I do more damage returns with them than anyone else.

I think it is worth it if you have a 4k TVs with HDMI 2.1 or are a 4k gamer. In most the games I played getting to 144fps at 1080p or 1440p with my 2080 tis was not hard. There where exceptions but they all played fine at a lower frame rate so the need to upgrade for that reason alone was not a thing. At 4k 144fps is almost impossible. Getting to 120fps on a 4k TV is a lot easier. Also there is an extra cost with the high end 30 series cards and that is heat. My 3080 ti at stock produces as much heat as my 2080 tis did with their normal overclocks. Sticking one in any old case and it will most likely cook. It is even a challenge with my high airflow cases where only 2 out of the 4 computers I put 30 series cards in had to be modified to keep the heat at 2080 ti levels.

The 2 cases that work for me are the Cooler Master H500 ARGB for my air cooled and Cooler Master H500M for water cooled. I am on the fence with my Corsair 5000D since it seems to work with my FTW3 Ultra 2080 ti but is a bit hot with a MSI Gaming X Trio 3080 ti. I just bought a Lian Li O11 Dynamic to replace the 5000D since I can get fans below the GPU and get rid of the hot air that accumulates below the GPU when benching. Also try this: I dropper 7c on the 5000D setup by doing it.

The space measures 30mm so only room for 25mm fans.

The 2080 tis were a bit toasty. My first one was an EVGA XC. It was always in the low 80s. I bought 2 more 2080 ti but I went super sized with EVGA FTW3 Ultras. $300 more than the XC but not many more frames. I ran them overclocked 24/7 to justify the extra cost. Best to fix your cooling now since 3080 tis produce as much heat stock as the 2080 ti do overclocked.

49NANO85UNA I bought it after watching this video.

It uses DP 1.4 and so does a GTX 1080 ti.

I got two 3080 tis. It was sort of fun but I have all the cards I need now.

Lower end have 3080 ti use reference PCBs and in the US cost $1200. I have a EVGA version(XC3 Ultra). It runs at a few frames less than my MSI Gaming X Trio. Both of my 3080 tis are a challenge to cool since they put out as much heat stock as my 2080 ti did overclocked. I would have gotten water cooled versions(hybrids) if they came up in an auto notify or a Newegg shuffle but they did not. One of the down sides is placement. I bought a Corsair 5000D just for a hybrid since none of my other cases would fit one.

I have a x570 as well since I do not know what I will need in the future. I only stopped using multiple GPUs with the GTX 1080 tis but I bought a 1300 watt PSU just in case I decide to use 2 RTX 2080 ti in a system. That is the reason I got out of 3D to video and went with design work. It was always more for less. Also I did 3D game content design for a number of years so I learned to texture everything. This cuts rendering time way down. So my competition used procedural textures the took minutes to render and I used texture mapping techniques that took seconds to render. That was my edge.

My thing was a lot of the projects I did were updates to designs I did a year or 2 before so I made the changes and rerendered with CPU. If I was starting from scratch then I would go GPU. I used high end stuff in the late 80s and early 90s but in 1993 I started using gaming PCs for 3D and if I needed more rendering power I built more PCs. Having lots of PCs is a habit I thought would end when I retired but I still have lots of PCs. Since I started early my meshes and textures were very efficient so they took no time to render. That is what kept me working more than talent.

For a long time GPU rendering was sub par. I did 3D for a living and used CPU rendering up until I retired in 2018. I was converting some projects to GPU but only if it made sense to. The thing is projects that are designed for CPU render faster on CPU. The last CPU renderer I used Nvidia's Mental Ray. Projects designed for it were not really compatible with Nvidia's iray renderer for GPU that came with 3D Max. It was easier to convert them to V Ray but that added cost to a production. If I would have continued working I would have gone all GPU by now. The last GPU I used was a GTX 1080 ti so about the same as a RTX 2080 or RTX 3060. I will be straight with you. I can make a living doing 3D with a 4 core and a GTX 970. That is the sort of computer that paid for my 3090 and two 3080 tis. That looks great. The only thing I would do is get rid of the HDD. I stopped using 7200rpm HDD for 3D in 2007. They really slow a system down. I would use a 1tb SATA SSD instead. If you need storage do it remotely with something like a WD Passport or Elements.

I use an LG 49" Nanocell IPS TV as a monitor. It is 4k 120hz with a 30 series card since it needs HDMI 2.1. It can do 4k 120hz with a 10 or 20 series card but not using the RGB setting. It is G-sync compatible and has Freesync Premium It only cost $500 on sales. If it died tomorrow I would get the 55" version since they discontinued the 49" version. I also have 2 55" LG OLEDs and the one I uses as a monitor did burn in at about 4900 hours. They both have PCs plugged into them but only for gaming.

Now I want a hotdog.

I have two 3080 ti now and at stock they produce more heat than my EVGA FTW3 Ultra 2080 tis did overclocked. The cases that they are in were fine for the 2080 tis but have failed with the 3080 tis. Both cases are of a high airflow design but they are not pulling the hot air around the GPUs fast enough. So they heat up. I have had two successes with the ASUS Rog Stix 3080 and an MSI Gaming X Trio 3090. I thought that the 3090 would be a cooling challenge but it was not since it is in a Cooler Master H500M. I know now why it is still near the top of Gamers Nexus case chart. The 3080 is in a Cooler Master H500 ARGB. I have used these in three builds with Noctua nh-d15s and that combo is great at moving air across the GPU to keep it cool. The cases that have failed are a Corsair 5000D and a Cooler Master H500p Mesh. The H500p Mesh has an EVGA XC3 Ultra 3080 ti and you would think that with a similar design to the H500M that it work fine but it doesn't. Fortunately adding a 60mm Noctua fan below the GPU had temperatures drop by 10c so it is fixed. The Corsair 5000d is using 7 Corsair fans and none seem the effect the GPU at all. I tried the 60mm Noctua fan fix that worked on the H500 Mesh but it had zero effect on GPU temps. So today I will try another fan configuration but I am not optimistic. I have ordered a replacement in the form of a Lian Li O11 Dynamic. The idea is to have 3 120mm exhaust fans right below the GPU. Cooling these GPUs seem to be a challenge but I would rather spend money on cases and a few fans rather than taking them apart to add pads and risking damage.

3DMark uses about 100 watts less from the wall than most 3D AAA games. It is easy to test to see if power is an issue. Just use GPUZ, sensors to see if you are getting enough power through the cables. To get up to the 450 watt limit on my ASUS ROG Strix I use +120 on the cores and 1000 on ram. I do this to all my GPUs to make shore they are not power limited.

You are down about 100 watts. Make sure you are using 3 Pcie cables. This is what I use normally playing BF 5 with a 3080. My 3080 ti rig does about the same frame so there is a CPU bottleneck. BF5 will drop to 60 or lower if restrict vram is selected in advanced. Your vram is low so you may have it selected.

The good thing about the Aorus is that it has DP 1.4 so your 1080 ti could do 120hz 4k unlike the LG OLEDs that need HDMI 2.1. I use 55" OLEDs as monitors. They are on 30" tables(at the back) and I am about 32" away from them. It works for me. I also have a 38" 3840 X 1600 ultrawide that is doing productivity only right now. The only reason I am not using it is that my Son needed a "work at home" station and his 55" B9 was in the way so I switched with him. The LG 38" 144hz monitors are a bit more expensive than a 55" or 48" OLED right now but there is a 75hz version that is cheaper.

I do see the point of it over a LG OLEDs since you can do 4k 120hz with a 20 series card. With the LG TVs you need a 30 series card for HDMI 2.1.

I upgraded from a 2080 ti to a 3080 ti and got about 3 frames more with RT on. By contrast I got almost 30 frames in Control with RT on. Since I got a 20 to 35 more frames at 1440p with the upgrade in all my other open world games I tested I think SP2077 is broken.

I have Far Cry installed on my 5800x/3080ti setup and it is not stuttering. I even have the mod Far Cry 2010 installed. I am playing at 4k on a G-sync compatible TV.

When I tested my 5800x/3080 ti rig with GTA 5 it stuttered. It did not stutter on my i9 9900k/3080, i9 10900k/3090 or my i7 8086k/2080 ti computers. In my first test to try to get rid of it I added vsync and it was gone. Since 4k 120hz ultra is fine with me I have not pursued it. The other game I tested that stuttered on the Ryzen and not on the Intels was Horizon Zero Dawn and vsync fixes that as well.