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tiandrei

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System

  • CPU
    Intel Xeon E3: 1246v3 / 1276v3
  • Motherboard
    Asrock H97M PRO4 / Gigabyte B85N Phoenix
  • RAM
    4*8 GB / 2*8 GB
  • GPU
    - / GTX 1050
  • Case
    Thermaltake V21 / Thermaltake V21
  • Storage
    240GB SSD + 24 TB HDD / 700 GB SSD
  • PSU
    Seasonic : 520 W / 430 W
  • Display(s)
    2 * Benq 24" + Philips 55"
  • Cooling
    plenty

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  1. If you had the drive connected to the system while installing the OS some recovery files may be on the HDD. Look it up
  2. Something like this could be useful I guess : https://www.moddiy.com/products/10%2dPin-USB{47}AC97{47}HD%2dAudio-Internal-Header-Y-Splitter-Cable-(5cm).html
  3. You will have to look for a PCIE Wifi card for optimal results. Maximum budget? You will have to keep in mind that with wifi it depends on both ends of the link (router and PC) and also if you have any other signals in the 2.4 GHz / 5 GHz range in between.
  4. What motherboard do you have? Make and model?
  5. Hello, Is there a cable between router 1 and router 2 ? If yes you have to convert router 2 into an AP. If the router has an AP mode very good ( you will probably have to move the cable from router 1 into a LAN port but it depends on the make of the router). If router 2 has no AP mode you will have to : - disable DHCP on it - move cable from router 1 in a LAN port on router 2 - give router 2 an static IP from the same subnet as the one from DHCP in router 1 On the Wifi part you could set sams SSID and password on both routers and the devices will move from one network to another if they loose connection or you could just reassign manually.
  6. Asking the real questions
  7. I had the same issue/question as you and I bought a Mikrotik router. Using DDNS from my ISP I connect directly to it via Winbox and from the router terminal I send magic packet in my local network. RANT : of course Microsoft screwed WOL on Win10 but that is that
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