camieabz

Oh that should be fun. Reading the Intel-backed articles of how Chinese hardware steals your data, and watches your every click.

What RAM kit used and BIOS version pls?

Ensure the 6-pin connectors to the GPU are secure, and if you have spares, try them instead. Honestly? You're using a 2021 mobo/bios, a 2022 CPU which is way more powerful than that GPU needs, 4800 RAM, and trying to run a 2013 GPU, and frankly, the system isn't balanced. I'd look to having a GTX 1650 at minimum in that system, if only to get a more game-happy setup. Pretty much any 4GB-6GB 10 series or later, would be a better solution. Maybe your gaming needs are minimal. With 2GB of vRAM and 8GB of system RAM, I guess they are.

Won't break anything. It'll work or it won't. You're looking at mixing multiple setups, so no idea.

C/Sub - for Center/Subwoofer on 5.1 or 7.1 (guessing not on 2.1 as that should be a single connection to 'line out' with the clever wiring done at the speakers then piped to a single cable) Rear - Rear speakers in the 5.1 or 7.1 setup for surround sound. Line in - Yes, this is for external sound input to the PC. There's nothing stopping you plugging anything into anything. Try it to see what works. Believe it or not, you can plug speakers or headphones into a mic socket and record faint sounds that way.

Maybe toggle hardware acceleration in browser settings and try other browsers to see if different.

Perhaps forum participants should be paid for their solutions. Back-dated to when forums started. Or were forum owners just slavers, utilising free knowledge and turning it to a profit in the long-term? Works both ways.

Just for balance. If and when AM5 are released, the prices won't be competitive for a while, and it's fairly likely that there will be shortages to start with. If it were me, I'd be looking at a 5600x or 5800x this year on a tried and tested chipset, and ride out 1-3 years of watching AM5 mature. I'm using a 2700x four years after its first release and it's fine for my needs, since I'm not an FPS fanatic. I might just keep an eye on 5800x prices in the next 6-12 months for a 2700x to 5800x upgrade. Considering the 5600x is around 30% faster on single core and twice as fast on multi cores, it wouldn't be a minimal upgrade. The 5800x would be a similar single core upgrade, with almost 3x the multi core performance. However, I appreciate that a new platform means potentially a whole new system, so it's something to think hard about. Lastly, the pricing of 5xxx CPUs should reduce when the AM5 hardware is released, if the budget is a concern. As for boards available, these are what I found on PCPP - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#X=297,174180&Y=8200000,8200006,8200062&s=33 Pricey imho, but the NZXT one looks interesting.

It could be. I'd check the motherboard fixings are tight, and there's no stray loose connections, such as CPU fan, and reset the CMOS to make sure. Seriously, double check all cable connections and jumpers. It can sometimes be the simple things.

It would need BIOS 4402 or later on the mobo to be compatible. You'll need some other BIOS compatible CPU to upgrade to 4402 (or later). Maybe check with the vendor for BIOS version. Per your first link: Said quote doesn't specify that you need a compatible CPU to get the BIOS updated. I'd opt for a B550 mobo if pre-install BIOS versions are a worry for you. There are 184 benched systems on Userbench showing for that CPU and mobo (always a handy way to see if part 'x' has been tried with part 'y'). Forty two of them are using the Vega 8 5000 gfx onboard the CPU, and it's not really great compared to a proper graphics card, if that's what you're hoping for.

A halfway in between remedy (if not a solution). Rather than hitting the PSU button, try holding down the PC's 'On' button for 2-5 seconds. Many systems will power down on that. It's no better or worse than a PSU button, but is probably less hassle to reach.

That's a bunkum statement ( "too severe" ) from the results. If your GPU is the GPU you want, all the CPU power over and above it is spare for whatever CPU things you need it for. IF you're trying to match the cheapest CPU to run a given GPU at 100% (no GPU bottleneck), then it becomes a thing, but excess CPU availability in itself is never 'severe', as long as the cost isn't extortionate. Who knows what resources any future background software will leech from your CPU and impact the GPU performance, if it's too close a match. I'd put more focus on extra cores and single core speed*, over bottleneck worries, as long as the CPU isn't holding back the system. You might want browsers, and music, and any number of things running with a game. More CPU is fine. * See Userbenchmark for simple indicators of single core speeds and overall performance when comparing CPUs. Make a shortlist of half a dozen CPUs that you think are up to the job and see how they compare.

Just did a little research for the fun of it. See image attached: These are the average prices of the cards available to me that are 4GB or more, and under £600. Then using UserBench, we get a £ / UB ratio (or bang per buck), and they were sorted with higher being better (The bottom line 1660Ti vRAM colour is wrong - oops). I included my own 1070Ti and the price I paid for it for comparison. As you can see, the 6500xt is good value for its UB Score, but that's only relative to THAT score. If it's not going to be enough for your gaming needs, the value is worthless. Looking at the UB Scores, and general value for money ranks, if I was getting you a card, I'd probably opt for 1660 over the 6500xt, since it has 6GB vRAM, a better Bench score and so on. If happy to throw another £30 at the purchase, it would be the 1660 Super. So I suggest you do something similar. Divide score by price for the simple 'value'. Caveats: - These were the cards available to me on PC Partpicker, and using vendors I prefer. Your options will be different. - The Userbench scores are just a general guide for a feel of card vs card. Also consider power options / requirements, other hardware etc. - Not all cards are the same. Fan varieties, clock speeds, vRAM type (GTX 1650 has GDDR5 and GDDR6 variants) should all be looked into.

For context: https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/compare/GeForce-GTX-1050-Ti-vs-Radeon-RX-6500-XT-vs-GeForce-GTX-1060-3GB-vs-GeForce-RTX-3050-vs-GeForce-RTX-2060/3595vs4488vs3566vs4495vs4037 So the 6500xt is 4GB, and benches lower than the 3GB 1060 (from 5 years ago). In fairness, the 4GB of vRAM will make it a better card than the older 1060 3GB, especially with games being more hungry. And as you can see, it's 40%-50% better than the 4GB 1050Ti, so I'd probably grade it as a perfect entry level gaming card. It'll run well with older games, I'm sure, and if happy to reduce settings on newer ones you'll still get some fun. Personally, I'd look at 6-8GB vRAM as the 1080p sweet spot, depending on the game, with 8GB probably being overkill for most. It's not so much the vRAM, which helps, but that those cards tend to have faster GPUs too. Also consider other hardware is up to the GPU upgrade if going larger than 4GB. PSU demands, PSU cabling, CPU is up to getting all the GPU's potential etc. Edit: Another thought. Consider used 10 and 20 series cards too, if you have reliable used sources. Many of those might be better value, if reliable.

If I had such a problem, I'd be looking to insert spacers between the card and a solid part of the case, if possible. Not saying that's a practical option for everyone, but that would be my first thought. Assuming it's possible, it would be more robust than suspension-based solutions. It could be something elaborate, and specifically machined to suit, or you could use a bunch of Lego blocks*, and glue them together. No idea if Lego is susceptible to heat, so treat it as a simple example, rather than a serious solution.