grangervoldemort

Thanks. I did this and disabled the option under some of the mice, but one had the power management option missing.
Photo attached. 
The article says to change it in the bios but there is no wake from USB. Only power on by mouse and keyboard both of which clearly mean powering the PC on. Not waking it. So it haven't changed the options (photo attached), but let me know if you think it will work. 
It still wakes via my g903 which is the mouse I'm always using now. It's a USB wireless dongle mouse. Haven't tested the other mice. I retired the g5.
 
My motherboard is written in my signature if you need to see every bios option via the user manual. 
 
You can see the devices that still remain in the command prompt in a photo I have attached. 
 
Thanks. 
 
Edit. OMG. I'm so dumb. I forgot you wrote that it thinks it's a keyboard. I disabled all keyboard and now it shows NONE (photo attached).
I also disabled the network card from being able to wake. 
Of course now I can't wake it from keyboard, but this is AWESOME. 
What if I want to be able to wake it from a specific keyboard or keyboards? 
 
Thank you so much. I love you. For YEARS I've had my mice wake my PC. And you solved it. LOVE YOU. 
 
This should be a guide. On logitechs own website they have a guide BUT it only says to disable the mice. 
To make sure others who search for this issue can find this thread in the future through google I'm going to type some keywords now. I hope this works. 
 
Mouse wakes PC from sleep. 
Stop mouse wake waking PC from sleep. 
Mice wake PC from sleep 
Stop mice wake waking PC from sleep. 
Disable mouse from wake sleep. 
Disable mice from wake sleep. 
 
<<<< How did you find this out? >>>>
 
 

It isn't going to drop in price 2 days after release....wtf

Define a 'cheap' graphics card. Many 'mid-range' cards cost almost as much as an entire console itself.

I left for a few hours and WTF HAPPENED. Insane. A billion posts.

I left for a few hours and WTF HAPPENED. Insane. A billion posts.

I left for a few hours and WTF HAPPENED. Insane. A billion posts.

Dumb thing to say. Just because I have 5k to spend on an item that will generate me income doesn't mean I am made of gold.
I bet that video comparison were both on PC. It is not console 30FPS vs PC 30FPS or 60FPS.
 
FPS is VERY different for consoles. 30FPS is playable on a console but not on a PC. Plenty of discussions about it:
https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/console-runs-smoother-than-pc-in-30fps-why.2496021/
https://www.neogaf.com/threads/30fps-on-pc-vs-console-why-does-the-latter-always-feel-better.1061621/
 
 

Correct. Mr Pirate display photo. Get stuff the legit way. Support the devs. Making games takes it's toll on humans ya know. Spongeeebob.

If the NAS gets infected so does the HDD. Good luck finding a HDD that is over 20TB to store all the data stored on the multiple drives in the NAS.

It is better to make to separate copies in case somehow the first copy is corrupted. If I follow your method, then the copied file to the SSD IF corrupted would also be copied over to the NAS.
 
Why would I need to copy projects to the NAS when done if it's all happening automagically as you wrote?
And who's gonna pay for cloud? You? I have 17Mbps upload as well. Not exactly fast.
 
For the backup I HAVE to connect and disconnect. The point of a backup is to be DISCONNECTED. Unless you know a way around this.
 
 

You are ignoring everything I wrote AFTER telling you my case vibrates.
 
''Also hard drives make a fair bit of sound spinning anyway which is what they are doing when idling. 10TB drives must be much louder than average.''
 
I have tried to find what vibrates for years. It is not something I am willing to try to fix anyway even if I did find the cause as it would be a DIY job requiring skill and knowledge. 
My case is old and the matte finish is very sticky now and horrible looking.

I am tired of this case. A new case will be refreshing to me aesthetically.
 
You aren't answering logically based on my first post.

Clearly you have not read my first post. As I suspected.

... What a dumb thing to say.
 
I very much doubt it will drop in price days after release. Never seen any hardware drop in price days after release. Usually takes 4-6 months for prices to drop. Not familiar with software such as games in terms of price drops. Hence why I am asking.

So if I buy a NAS it's better than using RAID within Windows with the drives in the PC because having the drives in the PC means if Windows needs to be reinstalled or is corrupted in anyway then I could lose data because I could accidentally delete data or the RAID which (I assume) would delete all the data on all the drives in RAID or the RAID could be lost due to Windows corruption or infection which again would mean loss of all data?

Just a small update.  So far two of the 8TB drives have failed after being used in a NAS for about 8 months.  Both times, I just sent the shucked drive itself to WD for an RMA and they sent back a completely new enclosure w/drive in the box.  
 
If you run them in a raid 6 or raidz2/3 configuration, then you are probably safe as they will fail.  Just have a spare on hand and prepare to wait about 2 work weeks for the RMA process to complete.  I'm in the south east US and the RMA center is in California so the turn around isn't the quickest.

Lol CURRYS? Maybe it's different there in Scotland, but here in England, Currys is utter dog crap for PC's. It's for grandpa and grandma. My local Currys have a selection of about 4-5 pc screens for example; most of which are not powered so you cannot see what the display looks like, and all of which are low end garbage.

Thats why I replied on this old thread, this was driving me nuts and I hated ending up with no solution! 
 
We can probably re-enable the keyboard and find the good one, but right now I've got into the habit of using my power button.
 
Happy it fixed your issue
 
edit :

How I found a solutiion : Lots of googling and when I saw 3 keyboards I figured... this mouse must fake a keyboard for the buttons and macro and what not.

Ok thanks, and reliability questions please. Please answer them.
BTW I live in the UK so no freebie USB memory stick here

I spoke to a PC repair store guy and he told me that external drives are designed to be used occasionally so the drives will be low performance and low quality. He said it would make no sense for WD to put in WD RED drives which are priced at £300+ into external enclosures financially for them.

A lot of people on forums are saying these white label drives in the WD Elements are WD RED's. The computer store repair guy (he runs his own business not from a franchised rubbish store) said that how are they able to prove they are WD RED's? He said you would have to take the drives apart and test every component and compare it with the WD RED. There is no way he said of knowing that they are WD RED.
 
I mentioned FCC ID and Model number and he said there is no way of knowing from that.

He doesn't sell me anything. That computer repair store guy is a genuinely nice guy. I have NEVER bought anything from him and have only used his services twice in my life. Once it turned out the CPU clock and FSB was set incorrectly which he fixed. He had quoted me higher before I took it in as I asked him over the phone how much it would be (before he diagnosed the issue obviously as I hadn't given it to him), but when he found out the problem was simple he charged me less. I didn't ask him to charge me less he just did.
 
And this week I used his service again to test my dead GPU as if it wasn't dead then I could sell it.
I call him to ask him questions many times and he always answers. How many computer repair stores would do that? He doesn't charge me to answer the questions, and he doesn't expect anything in return.
He runs a small little store that hasn't been update in at least 15 years by the looks of it. But he provides excellent service and is a very nice guy. I go to him over the fancy stores in town because he is a honest nice guy the 2 times I have needed help. I first found out about him through a friend about 11 or so years ago.
Today I spent 45 minutes asking questions and he answered all of them and even gave me a tip to register the 10TB internal drives I buy (didn't know they needed to be registered). He also told me how to choose the correct RAM and how to adjust timings and latency etc if needed.
he charged me £5 to check if the GPU was dead. He said he ran various tests and found out a bank of RAM is dead on the GPU. He said I could fix it by buying a new board but obviously as it's an older card it wouldn't be worth it and I would find it hard to find that board/ I wasn't even considering doing that; he just always gives me lots of extra info.
 
Your example is very very different. I very much doubt WD are going to put WD RED's in their externals. As he rightfully said it would make no financial sense.

And ok thanks I will check that out.
 
Edit: I am on that reddit r hoarders thing and I have no idea how to use it. I have never used reddit before. How do I find the info I am looking for on this specifically there?

Sorry to revive this old thread, but this is one of the first result on google and I had the same issue.
 
Try powercfg -devicequery wake_armed in command prompt (or windows power shell)
 
You should see the list of device that can wake your computer up.

In my case I had 3 keyboards and my network controller.

What I discovered is that the mouse (G703 in my case) is one of those keyboard. 
You can follow the guide you posted earlier to disable wake up on each of the "keyboards". 
 
You can run powercfg -devicequery wake_armed to see if your changes are applied.
 
I went ahead and disabled wake on the 3 listed on my system and now my Logitech G703 doesn't wake my computer anymore.
 
Hope that help.

This. 100% all of this. It's all the info you need 

there is a significant speed difference, over r+w 3500/3000 on some nvm pcie drives.
as you know editing videos is significantly disk intensive of course you will notice an improvement.
 
sata ssds were restricted by the sata 3.0 port which topped out at 6 GBps. the new pcie is significantly faster.
yes you are correct you should consider your workflows,
              1) ssd for os, can be sata
              2) pcie nvm for working data (data that you are actively editing)
              3) sata disks for archival (storage rarely accessed)
 
hope that helps

Yes that's 3000 Series
 
It's nothing you have to enable and it's set automatically, when you buy a 3200mhz stick, the Infinity Fabric will be set automatically to 1600mhz (which is the real clock of a 3200mhz stick btw), and that means they're both running at 1:1 ratio, up to 3600mhz, so don't go beyond that

Ryzen 1st Gen used to be very picky with RAM, and Ryzen 2nd Gen improved that a lot, but 3rd Gen has no problems at all from what i've heard, it won't be worse than 2nd Gen that's for sure

I simple terms yes it would be vulnerable and no you wouldn't be able to power on individual drives (well you could, but the raid array wouldn't function correctly if you did).
 
RAID really protects against drive failure, not data corruption. I.e. if you got infected with a piece of ransomware that hashes all your files and you have an internal raid, you're boned. The striped data would also be corrupted by the malware.
 
In theory the same could happen if you had a write-accessible network share (like say a currently mounted SMB share or a mapped network drive), but that's up to you in terms of how you best-decide to protect your data.

Don't feel daunted or confused by a NAS, it's probably your best storage option and in 2019 they can be dead-simple to set up.  Some people go for home-built solutions but don't feel like that's your only option.
 
Companies like QNAP and Synology make very easy specialist devices, and it can be as simple as slapping some hard drives in, plugging it into your router and hitting the power button. 
 
They run their own mini-operating system (usually driven through a web browser on your main PC) and you can do all sorts of things like use 40TB of hard drive space to get 20TB with an automatically mirrored backup copy of all your files, or use all 40TB with no backup. You can have it all appear as one giant "drive" in windows or lots of separate shares. Also, this will definitely appeal to you: It's possible to set up passworded folders/shares/user accounts if you don't want other people on the network accessing your files.
 
One of the best things is power usage. Consumer-grade NASs are usually low-powered devices so getting access to those files will generally cost you far less electricity than running the drives inside a PC tower.