iKingRPG

The problems are you guys have the antennas mounted too close to the roof. @LinusTech

Usually when someone says "Ok boomer", they're making fun of someones mindset, not their actual age, unless they're just trying to be a jerk to older people. For example, a 30 year old that uses CDs to listen to music could be called a Boomer for not using streaming services or something more modern, because CDs are obsolete. But if a 30 or 60 year old was seen using Spotify, they probably wouldn't be called a boomer. See, it's not about age. In fact, it seems like most of the people who are called boomers aren't actually Baby Boomers. "Boomer" used in this context means a person who thinks their old way of doing things is superior, even if it is not. Can also just mean people who close minded and hesitant to any sort of change, like "ill never drive an electric car because it doesn't have an engine, so its not a real car". TL:DR: Boomers in this context are ignorant, out of touch, and close minded, not old.

Agreed. In the US its hard to find anything without added sugars.

Well they have like 50 people, a bunch of which (editors) are constantly downloading and uploading stuff from their servers, they their 1 petabyte server (or however much it has these days) is constantly being backed up to google drive. A lot of the things they do are because they can, they have money, companies often send them free stuff, and and LMG gets to make videos about it. How expensive is upgrading your entire network when you have all these editors saving time (time=money), and you get to make videos about it? Probably pays for itself pretty quickly. LMG just makes so much revenue, they'd be kinda dumb to not have insane network speeds edit: another thing to remember is they now have several channels that upload videos regularly, and for all we know, a 10 minute video could have hours of Raw 8k/4k footage. Thats a LOT of data. Everything from getting the footage to multiple Editors' PCs, to uploading them to YouTube/Floatplane, requires an enormous amount of data, which means they either need a super fast connection to their server/the internet, or they will end up wasting a ton of time.

yeah, its also easier to setup with Home Assistant if you use an install method that supports add-ons, since there is a DuckDNS Add-on.

yeah, i suspect next time the MyQ integration breaks Linus will be looking for alternatives. Hopefully he goes the full DIY route.

Dear linus/jakkah/LMG, I'm glad you finally tried Home Assistant. In the end of the video I noticed linus mentioned that he wanted to keep using the original relay to avoid the 5 second closing delay. It is possible to control the Sonoff relay in Home Assistant, you could use a custom integration that lets you do so, or a much better solution that would also avoid their cloud entirely, is to flash the Sonoff with custom firmware that allows it to be controlled 100% locally, and gives you pure control over the device. Another thing is if you won't want your relays on the wall next to your buttons, you could also put them on the ceiling. Open the cover off your garage door opener, and if you see a button that opens/closes the garage door opener, that means you can run leads from there to the relay, which should allow you to control it again from the relay with no problems. Another reason why you might want to do this, is you know how you said Chamberlain is a bad company? Well, even though now you are controlling the garage door opener locally, Chamberlain will still screw you over. You see, there is no official MyQ API, this means that the way the Home Assistant integration for MyQ has to work, is by emulating the mobile app. So when you close your garage from home assistant, they think you are closing it from the app. This is bad, because this means that every time MyQ makes a change to their app or API, the integration breaks, no longer allowing you to control the opener. Normally the Home Assistant developers patch it after 1-2 days, but it's still really annoying. It breaks every few weeks randomly. Back to flashing the Sonoff. Personally the firmware I use is called ESPHome, which is open source firmware designed to run on any device using an ESP8266 microcontroller (like Sonoff wifi devices), and they connect directly to the Home Assistant local API. There is also an alternative firmware called Tasmota, but I'll explain how to use ESPHome, because it is simpler. First, you will need to buy some things if you don't already have them. USB to TTL/Serial converter: (this is the one I use) https://amazon.com/dp/B075N82CDL/ Jumper wires: https://amazon.com/dp/B07GD2BWPY/ Next, you will need to install the ESPHome Home Assistant Add-on from the Add-on Store. Open the ESPHome interface and add a node, fill out the wifi info, device name, etc. There are video tutorials that explain this. After you do that, click "edit". This is the configuration code for the firmware that you are about to flash to your Sonoff. You're going to need to add some code. The code that's there will work, but the device will just connect to your wifi network and not do anything. You need to tell the firmware that you want to control relays. From the video, the relays you use look like a Sonoff 4CH Pro. I have that too, and this is the code I use. Just copy and paste this after the line with your OTA password, the change the names of your relays to whatever you want, something like "Garage door 1". # paste into ESPhome node config after "OTA" binary_sensor: - platform: gpio on_press: then: - switch.toggle: button_1 pin: number: GPIO0 mode: INPUT_PULLUP inverted: True name: "Sonoff 4CH Button 1" - platform: gpio on_press: then: - switch.toggle: button_2 pin: number: GPIO9 mode: INPUT_PULLUP inverted: True name: "Sonoff 4CH Button 2" - platform: gpio on_press: then: - switch.toggle: button_3 pin: number: GPIO10 mode: INPUT_PULLUP inverted: True name: "Sonoff 4CH Button 3" - platform: gpio on_press: then: - switch.toggle: button_4 pin: number: GPIO14 mode: INPUT_PULLUP inverted: True name: "Sonoff 4CH Button 4" - platform: status name: "Sonoff 4CH Status" # Change the names of your switch: - platform: gpio id: button_1 name: "Sonoff 4CH Relay 1" pin: GPIO12 - platform: gpio id: button_2 name: "Sonoff 4CH Relay 2" pin: GPIO5 - platform: gpio id: button_3 name: "Sonoff 4CH Relay 3" pin: GPIO4 - platform: gpio id: button_4 name: "Sonoff 4CH Relay 4" pin: GPIO15 output: - platform: esp8266_pwm id: blue_led pin: GPIO13 inverted: True light: - platform: monochromatic id: status_led name: "Sonoff 4CH Blue LED" output: blue_led After you finish with the code, click "validate". If all goes well, click "compile". It should download a .bin file when complete (that's the firmware). We are almost done. Next, you need to install the ESPHome flasher tool on to your computer. Once that's done, open up your Sonoff. You should see pins labeled 3v3, GND, RX, and TX. You need to get your jumper wires and usb to TTL converter. Make sure the usb converter is set to 3.3v, because 5v will fry your Sonoff. You need to solder a wire from GPIO 0 to GND (ground), this will short out GPIO 0 and out the device in flashing mode. Then, connect the jumper wires from your USB to TTL converter to the correct pins on the Sonoff board. Plug the USB adapter into your computer, and open the ESPHome flasher tool. Choose the .bin file you downloaded and click flash. It will tell you when the Sonoff is done flashing. Once completed, disconnect the wires from the board and remove the wire you soldered from GPIO 0 to ground so it doesn't start in flashing mode next time. Then put it all back together. Now, power up the Sonoff. After a few seconds, it should connect to WiFi. The last thing to do is to go in your home Assistant configuration page, and it should have discovered your Sonoff automatically. Type your password and you are good to go! Your relay is in home assistant. And you can still connect contact sensors. Ugh I'm out of time I'll add to this later

I mean one option is always to get a long wire and run it outside.. although probably not the perfect solution, should work.

No keep it. Unfortunately the dumb mods here will probably move it

I noticed too

Garbage, they should state that they don't actually use monday.com on a daily basis, considering you can see in the video they are on the free trial... Recently they have been going to far in my opinion.

Ok thanks

It's on like Android 7 or something, I think they can't do anything. I maybe will just have to factory reset

That's what I did, it shows that the code is valid for X minutes and it still doesn't work.

So my younger sister lost her phone, so she started using a different phone but forgot her child Google account password so she changed it. We now found her phone and she wants to use it, but it shows that "account action required" thing, and I can't update phone to the new password. (Buggy LG k30...) We can't remove the account from her phone to re add it in settings without parents permission, so it asks for the parents access code. We type it, and it says it is incorrect. So with no access to her account from that phone and no way to add another account without the non working access code, our only option is to factory reset, which I want to try to avoid if possible. If anyone can help me thank you so much.

If you are building a PC for gaming you would have to buy a GPU anyway because intels integrated graphics arent good for much other than browser games or Roblox or something. The real question is if you aren't gaming, why is the PC $1000? Tell us what you will use the PC for

Oh.. I feel stupid. I guess I'll pick up a GT 710 or 1030 or something then lol Edit: ok so I got a 710 and the PC works great now! Probably the most graphics intensive thing we will every do on this PC is watching YouTube so it is fine

Just built a PC with asus prime b450m-a/csm motherboard Ryzen 2600 Ballistic 16gb ddr4 3200mhz ram 2x 8gb sticks EVGA 80+ white 500w PSU And I can't get it to post, the fans spin and the orange lights are on. I tried swapping the RAM with 1x viper 2400mhz 4gb ram, still same result. I checked all of the power supply cables in the motherboard, I re placed the CPU, I tried different HDMI cables and a dvi cable, I moved the ram into every possible configuration, nothing. I tried basically every troubleshooting trying I could think of. Even the speaker that came with the thermaltake case won't work. I hope someone here can help me, thanks.

i really thought ford would donate just because they hate elon

lttstore.com

Thanks but i found this and think i will wait until it is back in stock. thanks though! https://www.costco.com/dell-inspiron-14-5000-series-2-in-1-touchscreen-laptop---amd-ryzen-5---1080p.product.100488499.html

I can easily put together a list of desktop parts, but im terrible at finding laptops. Can someone recommend me a laptop that is: $400 USD or less smaller than 15 inches has a good cpu hopefully 8gb ram or more I dont care about how much storage because i can upgrade it usb c charging would be awesome but i dont expect that in a laptop under $500 Not too heavy Upgradable RAM, Needs to be Brand New Would really like 1080p display I keep looking online and finding the almost perfect laptop, but there will be one thing I dont like. I liked this one, but the CPU really sucks and i think it is a couple years old judging by the cpu. To give you some information, I want to do things like editing Word documents and using the browser, but I want to be able to play some games and light video editing also. I will use windows primarily. I know I should probably spend more, but im 14 so this is already a big purchase for me lol Thanks in advance Edit: I actually perfer less storage and ram as i can upgrade it, sell the old drive and save some money.

Assuming you dont have good sound card

Maybe try changing settings in twitch, are there latency settings? usually the low latency options on these streaming services have to procces it less.

Google designed it as a universal protocol, and Apple could easily add it but they obviously wont at least for a while. Literally anyone could support RCS. Just like SMS is universal.