Mbrown278

Thanks, yeah I don't know the specifics behind how switches cause interferance with VR, or if they even do, but I had loads of problems (which I know could be caused by a number of things, and cutting out the switches was one of the things I changed as an attempt as a part of changing multiple things. I can't remember if I changed things and tested one by one, as that problem solving was a year or two ago. Since I got the Pico Neo 3 link a couple of months ago, I have mainly been doing sim racing, sat down in one place so put my PC there and used the headset in wired mode. I tried wireless the last two nights to play some other games and it was glitchy and all sorts, which due to the way the Pico headset does wireless (must be on the same network as the PC), I used my main router, through the switches etc. So today wired up my wifi 6 router direct to the PC to try and see if that improved things and came across these other issues. My old VR headset (Quest 2), had an app called Virtual Desktop, which would allow you to connect to your PC across multiple networks automatically whether they were external networks or not. That app isn't yet available for the Pico, but apparently will be sometime in the next few months, but didn't want to wait until then if I could sort it now. That app does seem to indicate though that the switches shouldn't be an issue, but it was actually the developers on discord who recommended going direct to the pc and cutting out switches etc. After your advice though, and after doing some searching I managed to find the option to set the router as AP, once that was set everything was automatically sorted and it kept the specific SSID I wanted for the wifi 6 router. Also the access to the NAS/PC is sorted! Works without any further adjustment etc, so thank you both! Now I just need to test the wireless VR and see if it has improved - thank you

So it isn't the cables, it is the switches that cause the issue with VR tracking, and various other aspects, due to the way I have my systems setup I can't reduce the amount of switches in my setup. Yes the headset connects through your LAN to the PC, and not directly with the PC. That was the case with my previous Oculus/Meta Quest 2, and with my current Pico Neo 3 Link. It sounds like the best option is to put in access point mode - so I shall look into doing that. Thank you

Sorry, I should have stated why, so I play vr, and to do this wirelessly it is best to have WiFi 6, with no other devices using the router. So for best results a separate router is recommended. I have tried using my other router for wireless vr, but between my pc and the wireless router I would be connecting to, there are two ethernet switches. Whereas with my dedicated router I just have one ethernet cable. So using the dedicated router is the only way to play wireless vr considering my setup and layout of my house. I did also consider replacing my gigaclear service providers linksys router, but I have a linksys mesh system so that would add an extra layer of complexity or cost to change them.

Thank you, I'll give that a go

Hi all, so I have a PC setup with a shared folder which is connected to my main router. From another PC (main PC) I created a shortcut to the folder which just had the computer name so was \\Desktop-blahblahblah\documents (which was working correctly) I have now put the main PC connecting to a different wifi 6 router by ethernet cable, and that wifi 6 router then connects to my main router (which the PC with the shared folder connects to). I now however whatever I try I can't connect to the folder. Please forgive me for my following attempts, I am struggling to find what it should be hence the post. I have tried port forwarding, with the following options: -change the shortcut to my external ip, and then the port so something like \\111.111.11.111:1234\documents -change the shortcut to my internal ip, and then the portr so something like \\192.168.3.1:1234\documents -change the shortcut to either external or internal ip, then the pc name, so something like \\111.111.11.111\desktop-blahblahblah\documents or \\192.168.1.1\desktop-blahblahblah\documents Oddly, if I go onto my main PC, and type 192.168.1.1 into a browser, it takes me to my main routers login. So it can somehow get past/through the wifi 6 router which is 192.168.3.1 I have set a various single port forwarding options from both routers depending on each option above. My thinking is that if I were to aim my main PC at my wifi 6 router, with a port of say 1234 internal and external, then have it route that towards the ip of my main router with the port 1234, and have that router aim at the pc/nas then it should all get there, but I can't get it to work. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated! Mark

Hi all, I have been trying to get my head around this with online articles etc and would appreciate some help. I am trying to setup wake on LAN for my home PC. The reason for this is so I can use Parsec, and utilise my powerful PC at home for gaming/heavier workloads whilst I am anywhere with a decent internet connection. Current setup is: Linksys Velop router -> Huawei AX3 router -> PC. I have setup wake on lan in the bios, and in windows. I have setup port forwarding on the Linksys router, but am getting lost with how to tie this up to the 2nd router and which IP's need to go where. I think it is: external IP for the Linksys velop and choose a port. Then setup a rule for that Velop router to forward from that IP/port to the internal IP of the Huawei router and select another port? Then on the Huawei router, I can select the specific internal IP for the PC and choose a port? Then I am using WOL or Teamviewer to try and wake it. Any corrections/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Mark

Thanks all for the replies, I hadn’t considered whether it had come out of a prebuilt, that could make some sense with a bulk load of CPU’s from an oem. The PNY and Zotac options is what I found too but like you say it is only mentioned on a couple of pages in the whole of the web so it seems very rare/not mentioned, sold individually etc. I did try and identify it in Nvidia control panel, user benchmark and a couple of other ways and it just states Nvidia GeForce GTX 770 etc, I’ll give GPU-Z a go. Thanks again, Mark

Hi all, I'm trying to identify this graphics card. I know its a GTX 770 2GB, but can't figure out the brand or confirm model number etc. The closest GPU seems to be the PNY XLR8 GTX 770 Enthusiast Edition - VCGGTX7702XPB https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/pny-xlr8-gtx-770-enthusiast-edition.b1957 It just seems odd that my one doesn't have any stickers/PNY labelling and doesn't have Nvidia on the PCB by the 16x connector. I'm asking as I'm looking to sell it but I bought it used and don't have any info on it - checked the listing and it basically said Geforce GTX 770, nothing else. Any help identifying it would be appreciated, Mark

I posted the below, however edit: I spoke too soon, and in the typical way it was fine, and then I posted saying it was fine, then I could only go up to 140mbps - not 150mbps. Its weird as my phone, on 5GHz and testing wifi speed shows in excess of 300mbps wifi speed, then the Quest 2 which actually has wifi 6, theoretical speed of up to 1200mbps (whereas my phones theoretical speed is lower) varies and this evening could only get 140mbps in the app virtual desktop. This was more than enough - and the game was still stable, but I just can't understand it. Also there are no apps and no way I can figure out to test the wifi speed on the Quest 2. I am almost convinced it is something to do with the app Virtual desktop, rather than my setup. I forgot to mention when I use the same cables and test speed with the PC plugged directly into my headset, it can do 2.2gbps. So only cable difference trying wirelessly is the 1gbps port and 1gbps adapter. I would think these wouldn't cause the reduction down to 140mbps. Ah well Thanks all for your help - I disabled the 2.4ghz on my wifi 6 router, I did a channel search on both routers and it has optimised the channels so less clashing. I've ensured that I am on the AC/AX bands on my wifi 6 (which I already was). I have left it on 80MHz for the moment. For the moment that seems to have shown on the application that I can now reach the 150mbps maximum for the app, and it hasn't shown any dips in this availability yet. I haven't gone up to that, but I have now increased it to 100mbps, and am monitoring it to see whether my available speed drops below that and so far it hasn't (before it would dip down to near 80mbps which is why I left it there). I'm getting 1ms additional latency from going from 80 to 100mbps, it is incredibly smooth using the quest 2 now with my PC wirelessly. Have graphics settings high and its all stable. Thanks all!

Thank you - So the headset is capable of 80Mhz, but I'll try it on 40/20 and see what happens. I'll also try my routers on different channels. In terms of VR, I find that Virtual Desktop (when I don't have one fault or another) can work. I have played hours where the spikes have been a couple of ms and unnoticeable (especially with my latest setup which has a very stable latency), where I have had a constant FPS, and where the picture is comparible to the link cable, however I do agree that another wireless solution may be better. If you were to go onto the Virtual Desktop discord, you can see that users have regular and repeat issues. This is difficult for the developer as there can be a number of elements/settings impacting someones wifi. The setup I have does work, I probably just need to stop messing with it! A few more things to check first though

Thank you for the responses. So both routers are setup where I use my headset, with one connected to the internet with ethernet, through a switch then to the pc and the other not connected to the internet and connected to the pc by the usb cable and ethernet adapter. I haven't checked whether each router is on separate channels, however each router has the 2.4 and 5ghz split, with different names for each. That way I know only the headset is connected to my 5ghz band on the router which goes to the pc by usb. Latency wise, both are roughly the same with around 5-8ms network latency, but the one through the switch can spike to 20ms which makes it uncomfortable in addition to other latencies. I ran WiFi sweet spots which indicates a speed above 300mbps WiFi from my phone to/from the router. I'm guessing it's the connections from there that then slow it down, but I still don't understand that fully, I know I wouldn't expect 1200mbps on a 1gbps Lan/wan port, but would have expected closer to the speed between device and router - ill look at each aspect and maybe test the router direct to my pc with a short ethernet cable to see best case in my house with other signals etc. Thank you for the ideas

Hi all, I have an Oculus Quest 2, and am trying to run it wirelessly with my PC using an app called virtual desktop. My main router connected to my service provider is near where I use the Quest 2, however my PC is upstairs. I have run 2 ethernet cables (both cat 6 shielded/armoured, outdoor uv) from my study and accross the back wall of my house and back in downstairs to where I use the headset. I use one cable for transferring a monitor, keyboard, mouse, and sound and use Ibik Aster to use the PC as two seperate computers. The other ethernet cable connects between a 1gbps switch in the study to my main router. The switch then connects to various devices and the computer. The headset has poor latency and network spikes whilst going through the network switch. I had already run a 15m usb 3.0 active cable from my pc, down through a wall to the room below so I could use the headset wired to the PC. I therefore decided to get a seperate router, and link it to the PC via ethernet -> usb adapter. I got a 1gbps adapter, and connected it to the pc through the USB 3.0 cable. I then shared the internet connection accross the two connections into the PC. When using virtual desktop, the maximum bitrate you can set is 150mbps. If I connect my headset to the 2nd router I get a bitrate option of around 80mbps - 130mbps. If I connect the headset to my main router I get upto around 130mbps, but the latency and spikes etc aren't ideal. If a router is capable of higher speeds, how/why can't I connect to my PC through my 2nd router at a higher bitrate? For example, if I had a 300mbps internet connection or more, then a 5GHz connection to a router with no other devices linked would be likely to achieve over 150mbps constantly if in close range. The router for the headset is a Huawei AX3 3000 Wifi 6. I am connected via the 5GHz band,and the headset can go up to 1200mbps, I use it at a distance of approximately 3 meters in clear line of sight. The Huawei AX3 goes Router (1gbps ethernet ports) -> 1gbps ethernet adapter -> USB 3.0 cable -> PC. My main router is a Linksys Velop Whole Home system. If it matters, my PC has the following spec: Intel 10600k Palit RTX 2080ti Gaming Pro OC Asus TUF gaming Z490-Plus Wifi 16GB (2x8gb) 3600mhz RAM M.2 SSD's as boot and storage My internet is 100mbps Up/Down Any assistance would be greatly appreciated, Mark

After some reading re LLC, I set it to lvl 4 so that there wasn't such a huge difference between what I was setting and what I was actually seeing. So I did some further testing at a CPU ratio of 49 and managed to get down to 1.285vcore set and this provided 1.28vcore. This was stable, however when I went down to 1.28v it failed an XTU stress test. So I have upped it back to 1.29v to be sure and this still tests as stable. I then tried 5.0GHz, and it was more stable however I had to set vcore to around 1.35v to prevent an immediate fail in XTU but it still was not stable over time. I got to 1.36 vcore but the temps were back to mid 90's so I just stopped the stress test. All of the Vcore settings when set between 1.345 and 1.36 were providing an actual voltage of 1.344v so this is already higher than the 1.328v I was stuck at previously. I don't know whether LLC or the Bios update helped me get over the 1.328v but I might test this later by setting LLC back to auto (although again won't be able to fully tell as the new bios update might effect the LLC auto mode). I'm happy with 4.9GHz at 1.29v and temps are around the 80 degrees under load so again I'm happy with that. The negligible difference between 4.9GHz and 5.0 isn't worth it for me unless I delid/improve cooling etc etc and again that would just be so I could say I have it at 5GHz and not really for any noticeable performance. Thanks again for the help Mateyyy

Thank you for the response. I have now updated the bios, I haven't yet had the chance to test if that has helped at all-the bios version did state the update should help with stability but I'll test tomorrow. LLC is set to auto I wouldn't want to run vcore any higher than necessary but conflicting forums/advice say that up to 1.4v at an absolute max could be okay although may degrade CPU slightly quicker, is that right? The 5ghz profile seemed to manage with HWinfo measuring 1.365vcore. When setting my vcore to the 1.385v it was just to provide the example/test as to whether it would actually go above 1.328 which it didn't when measured on OCCT and HWinfo unfortunately

I found this which might prove more reliable although I haven't purchased it/tried it. I might consider it if I build another STX PC. ADT-Link M.2 key M NVMe External Graphics Card Stand Bracket with PCIe3.0 x4 Riser Cable 25cm 50cm 32Gbs For ITX STX NUC VEGA64 GTX1080ti (25CM,R43SG) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07XYZSX55/?coliid=I1E41IKCWN38M8&colid=18FSAXF9NIXTR&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Hi all, I am trying to overclock a 7700k. I have loaded the 5GHz profile on my motherboard and it works, and is stable, but the temps are peaking up to mid 90's in VR. I am aware standard Bios profile can add too much voltage so I have followed this in the hope of lowering the temps: https://edgeup.asus.com/2017/kaby-lake-overclocking-guide/3/ I have managed to get to 4.9GHz all core stable with 'Additional Turbo Mode CPU core Voltage' (VCore) set to 1.35v - however the actual VCore reading during a XTU stress test is 1.312v. Temps are around low 80's at full core load on XTU stress test so I thought I'd see if I could get to the 5GHz (I am aware the performance difference is minimal but temps might be significantly more). So I set the Core ratio's to 50 for all cores, and tested it at the same voltage. XTU states failed, so I increased it each time by 0.005v until I got to 1.385v VCore and XTU is still stating failed even though temps are fine. It crashed at 1.380 and 1.385v. The VCore reading in HWinfo only ever has gone up to 1.328v but I can't see why it isn't providing more. VID is increasing with each increment but again I understand this isn't linked as I have switched to manual, but again I can't see why the voltage VCore isn't going up. I tested it also with OCCT but got errors each time and crashing at similar points to XTU. I tested it without XMP enabled. My ambient room temp at the moment is fluctuating throughout the day between about 20-22 degrees C. I can't understand why the 5GHz auto profile worked at a stable although high temp, and what I'm doing wrong not to be able to at least replicate it manually. Full specs of the system: Asus ROG STRIX Z270i gaming mini-ITX board. Bios version: American Megatrends Inc. 0234, 05/01/2017 Intel 7700k, not delidded Palit Super Jetstream 1080ti 2 x 8GB Crucial Ballistix BL2K8G36C16U4B 3600MHz DDR4 Noctua NH-D15. 750W Silverstone Strider ST75F-GS v3.0 My overclocking ability is basic and I have only really successfully used auto profiles in the Bios and just today followed the above link which has been successful when compared to any other guides I have followed. Again I know I could just stick at 4.9GHz but am just trying to learn. Thanks all

Hi all, Not sure if this is in the correct section so apologies if not. I have tried to find something that would clarify or help but can't quite get the answer I need. I am looking to get a pair of glasses which I can use as a computer screen. I don't need them to be smart/interactive etc but if they are then that would be fine. I have a decent PC which I use for a cycling programme called Zwift and have been considering getting a bigger monitor - potentially 4K (my current monitor is 19"). Does anyone know/can recommend a pair of glasses which can be used to stream the feed from my PC instead of getting a new monitor? The room I use when cycling is pretty small hence why I am looking to save space but still improve the experience. I understand there are VR headsets which would work but this would not be particularly practical due to the size/weight and amount of sweat they would probably cause. Thanks all

Thanks for confirming, I do have a graphics card, i guess I could still just go for the 3770k and leave at stock for a bit more performance, the 3770k has 8 threads/ 4 cores and it’s clock speed is the same as a Xeon e3 1275 v2 (the best my motherboard states it will support) looking at the performance difference-is there one between the 3770k and this Xeon?

Sorry all, yes it’s the H61m-itx and is 2nd and 3rd gen compatible. so do we think a 3770k could be OC’d?

Hi all, I have an AS Rock H61m-itx board with a 3470 cpu. I am considering getting a 3770k but it’s only really worth it if I can overclock. I haven’t overclocked before so am a bit of a noob, I know what to do, but can it be done with my motherboard? I understand I could buy the cpu and test it, but to save £100 I’m trying to confirm first. I have uploaded a pic of my bios, which has the option to take ratio off auto but can’t test with my current cpu. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated

Hi all, I have searched everywhere and can't seem to find anything specific to this issue so any help would be appreciated. I am in the process of setting up a 2nd monitor (in my garage) for my PC (in my living room) to allow me to use my main PC for a cycling programme (Zwift) using a turbo trainer. I have tested the setup and my GPU runs up to 99% usage depending on how many people are in shot on Zwift. Current main PC spec: 7700k EVGA 1060 6GB mini 16gb ram (2 x 8gb) My monitor in the garage is 60hz and my main monitor at my pc is 144hz. Whilst running afterburner/rivatuner it displays on my 60hz monitor that I am putting out the 144 fps that I have capped for my main monitor. It clearly won't be showing the 144hz on my 60hz monitor, but is my gpu throwing out 144fps for both monitors and is there any way to divide this so it only puts out 60 to my 60hz and 144 to my main 144hz ,monitor? This will hopefully prevent the GPU from maxing out whilst using zwift, lower temps and could more likely allow for the PC to be used at 144hz by someone else whilst I'm zwifting on the 2nd monitor. Temps aren't too bad currently but I'm looking to put the whole setup in a smaller sff PC so could be vital to keep it as low as possible Thanks all

There are no options for cable routing unfortunately. I've looked a bit at Chromecast and it seems to stream video's/apps straight from the internet fine but there is an issue with good quality decent frame rates from a PC, don't quite understand why but thats all I can find from reviews etc

Hi all, So I have a reasonably decent computer as my main computer 7700k, 1060, 16gb ram and m.2 240gb ssd. I use an app called Zwift in my garage and currently have a basic computer setup to run zwift and a dvd/film on two monitors in the garage. What would be the best and cheapest way to setup 2 wireless monitors in the garage to my main computer? Distance is approx 8m to my main computer (through a wall) or it is about 4 m from my garage setup to my router (again through a wall). This would mean I'd only need 1 PC and can focus on keeping that at a decent spec rather than two. I could just transfer the computer but this is a pain to do each time I want to use zwift. Thanks all!

So... slight update. I tried the HDPlex which kept failing for some reason, so I have returned it. To make this easier I decided just to go down the M-ITX route, although bigger would allow a much easier setup and less risk of power issues with M.2 adapters etc etc. So spec now is an Asrock H270 AC/ITX motherboard, 2 x 8gb Ballistix sport DDR4 2400 ram, an M.2 240GB SSD, a 300w flex atx psu, i7 7700k CPU, Noctua L9i CPU cooler, and for the graphics card, as the games I play aren't too demanding I went for a low profile 1050ti. This time I added a sheet of perspex as the middle support for the motherboard and to prevent shorting with the gpu/psu. I have had to remake the case and the size is now slightly bigger but measures 11.5cm x 20cm x 18.75 approx, so about 4.3 litres. In terms of benchmarks, I can get 2112 on Novabench, this is 1080 CPU, 259 ram, 700 GPU and 73 disk score. I've still got more to do, such as corner pieces at the front and to drill a hole for the power button, but its almost complete. I also have the rear IO cover which will fit in place. Pics below

So I have now fitted the sides, which allowed me to see I could still shift the motherboard over by 5mm to give me more space on the GPU side. PSU still undecided, I have had some good responses from Overtek and Seasonic regarding the Flex, and am currently making enquiries regarding step up options to 19v. I'll set both the Flex ATX and the HD Plex 160 up to see which works best and what I am happy with regarding cables/switches etc etc. Updated pics: