Kasper_MC

What's the better option right in front of my eyes? You mean I what to get my choice validated, or? I don't - I don't care about peoples oppinions about me buying a new motherboard. I have decided. I just wanna know which of the two is statistically gonna bring me the least problems with the needs I have for it. It has nothing to do with what's the smartest. I don't seek out people who agree with me. I don't try to find an echo. But people keeps wanting me to make another choice, I'm not going to. I'm simply asking: What's their experiences with X and Y - nothing else! It might be that on my new board, I won't have these issues with one of third party softwares. I don't know. But I was just asking people to tell about their own experiences, not try and convince me of their oppinions. I don't care - as stated: I know people thing it's stupid - I'm doing it anyway. No I don't REALLY need to use first party software. Third party options I've tried so far: - Open RGB: Trouble with profile saves, have to reset them every second or third boot. Plus it fucks over lighting on my GPU. - SignalRGB: Trouble with finding RGB-parts: G.Skill RAM, lower light on motherboard. And when it's set up, colors flicker and single LED's randomly turn off. - Aquacomputer: Only know it from DerBauers video on RGB softwares, and it doesn't find any of my LED's... I can control the screen on my CPU cooler, nothing else reacts to it. - NZXT Cam: Conflicts massively with L-connect from Lian Li I have for my fans. - Corsair Icue: Is a ressource pig and cannot connect to my motherboard. Is there something good I haven't tried - willing to give it a go? Thanks for letting me know about Mystic light - what's it lacking? Is there any major bugs or anything you've noticed or is it just missing variations and so on? Cause I just wanna set static lights, so that won't be a problem.

I've already asked this in HUB and GN discord, mostly I just discovered, that I'm not as good of a person as people who don't care about it... but I still do... So here goes: Again: Yes, I know it's stupid, yes I know I can use opensource solutions, yes I know I'm dumb for even suggesting this. No Ican't control it through Bios on my X570 Elite. I'm looking for peoples experiences using MSI Mystic Light or Asus Armoury Crate - which is the least intrusive? Which "remembers" settings the best? Is there any conflicts with drivers or other software you know about? I'm replacing my Gigabyte Aorus X570 Elite (1.0) with either one of two boards, one from Asus one from MSI - and I'm looking for the least buggy and least interfering software between -only- MSI Mystic Light and Asus Armoury Crate... The Aorus Engine on my current board interferes with my GPU fan settings and conflicts with drivers and HWInfo. It "forgets" setting s constantly and won't release controls... The final straw is now, when I have it installed I can't run my GPU in Pci-E 4.0 mode - it'll make the OS hang and crash the GPU-driver. Neither can I use my Pci-E 3.0 riser with the motherboard set to 3.0 speed. If I uninstall Aorus engine, none of these problems are there. Now: Again: I know it's dumb and irresponsible according to the guys on HUB and GN discords. I don't need anyone telling me that. Trust me, I know - pls! Neither am I looking for you to validate my choice of exchanging my motherboard. I know I'm doing it either way. I'm just looking for your experiences with specifically MSI Mystic Lights and/or Asus Armoury crate, in regards to them interfering the least with other programs on your rigs - pls share, if possible in a similar style as I used above when describing what is wrong with Aorus Engine - just what your experience is, not what you think of my choice. Sorry if this is a bit defensive and passive aggressive. But my experience on GN and HUB discords was not nice. I think it's a real dick move to not answer, if people talk to you - especially if you asked them a question. Same here, I just don't have the energy to explain or defend my choices again. If you feel I'm being stupid: I know many think so. And not to sound like a twat, but pls keep it to yourself, thank you.

Long story short... It's fixed... New OS-install did not fix it. It turns out it was my PCI-e riser, not that I didn't check it when testing hardware issues as described; all hardware items has been out, and checked in another PC, that goes for the riser aswell. For some reason my bios went back to "auto" mode on PCI-e configuration. Even though it's bought as a "PCI-e gen4" riser, the riser doesn't work with gen4, only gen3 - so yeah. Thanks for the input @Eigenvektor - very patient, very courteous with my lack of knowledge. But the fix was just being vigilante against Gigabytes BIOS shenanigans and gremlings...

Thanks for sticking with it - help is much appreciated! Below is copies of smart data from CrystalDiskInfo. Cmd's Wmic also reads "OK" for all three drives. If anyone else has any options I could try - I would like it - otherwise, I'll try a fresh install sometime this week and report back if it work. The reason I suspect the OS is the culprit is, that everything is fine if I boot to my textdrive. But as suggested @Eigenvektor - it could be a bug in my OS that I'm not aware of. So any suggestions would be helpful - trying to learn as I go along. An OS reinstall is a shitty job, so might as well get the most tinkering out of it as I can

Just happened again. TM froze as well, could monitor any change in RAM usage. A new error in eventviewer though: Dhcp-Client:A client denied access to a specifik IP.

Thanks! I'll try and have TM open and look for it. RAM usages rarely goes above 60% whenever I've monitored it though. If it is a memory leak, how do I go about it? Just reinstall or?

At random intervals, sometimes hours, sometimes days, sometimes minutes apart, my OS will slowly stop functioning. Video will keep playing, most often, but mouse clicks will stop working, I can open the start menu, but I can't make it to the "restart" before I can't click anything. If I wait long enough - usually 2-3-4 minutes from when it sets in - my entire OS will have frozen. It won't crash completely with a BSOD or anything - just slowly grind to a halt. I know it's not the hardware, all components have been tested long term, seperately in other builds (a mate of mine was kind enough to swap components with me, one at the time). The build is 2 years old-ish. I have tried: - reseating all components one by one, as well as swapping them - DDU and install 3 different versions of the GPU driver (one by one) - updating BIOS and chipset drivers. - running without XMP - running only 2x8 sticks of RAM Eventviewer at the time of the crash, last time, gives me two errors, none of them critical: - DeviceManagement-Enterprise-Diagnostics-Provider - ModernDeployment-Diagnostics-Provider (several of these in short succession) Cinebench, Aida64, 3D-mark Firestrike and Timespy Extreme passes with flying colors. It is not overheating; 69-73 degrees on the GPU (Hotspot eround 80-81), 68-70 degrees on the CPU. My only next step I can think of is to reinstall my OS, but it's a hassle!! - any other things I could try first? My build is: - Win10, all up to date as of April 3rd. 2023 - Gigabyte Aorus Elite X570 - Ryzen 7 5800X - Powercolor Red Devil 6900XT - G.Skill DDR4 3600 cl16, 4x8gb - Corsair Hx1000 Platinum PSU - Samsung 970, 512gb Nvme boot drive - Intel 660p 1tb Nvme secondary drive - Samsung 850 pro, 500gb backup drive for files

See, that was the kind of answer I was looking for. But then, for a normal SSD or HDD, what data am I looking for in CrystalDiskInfo?

Sure, but am I testing the right numbers - that's why I wanted some input before posting. There's 28 sets of data I can set, it's only showing 8?

Sorry if you find it vague. Thought I covered it with: "(...) installs (Windows install media, steam and epic installers and so on), it's bugging out on - no error codes, just failing installs" - but I can list them all if you like: Trying to install drivers, steam, epic, windows 10, Aida64, Cinebench, CPU-Z, HardwareInfo 64, Google Chrome, MSI Afterburner.. I said I have no idea what I'm looking for in Crystal Disk Mark, I know how to read the stats, but which stats should I look at to see if the drive is failing? Or what button do I press to get the right stats? Is what I meant...

... and 1 of the RAM sticks... the one I used on the other motherboard... So, baybe not usefull for anyone but me: If you experience the same as described above: Don't just check mobo name on the motherboard, check it in bios/flash-utility. And remember, if you switch motherboards, test with various sticks of ram... ffs...

UPDATE: /Jinx... - It seems to be the BIOS. I googled the model and got to Asus' website where I downloaded the lastest BIOS - or so I thought... Because my Mobo model is NOT a regular P8H61-PRO... no no... it's the "CM6630_CM6730_CM6830", according to EZ flash... So, the BIOS' I've tried until now, the flash-utility read and write them OK, but they're unstable, it seems. When I switched mobo to the Z77, the install of Windows was already corrupted, so it was f*cked in advance (excuse my french) I "downgraded" from 4101 and to the 4002 version of Bios... It has now downloaded and installed all of COD2 with no issues... I still need to do more stability tests, ofcause. I'll update for anyone curious of my ventures, when I'm sure

Alright... but then, how do I check if it's dying or I'm just doing something wrong when using it? It works fine for normal file transfers. But installs (Windows install media, steam and epic installers and so on), it's bugging out on - no error codes, just failing installs.

Thanks, will try - where do I get it from? And what are the codes to google, from your screenshot it's not all too clear - sry if it's obvious

Erh, it's a Corsair Voyager X1 64gb...?

I'm putting together an "old" system: I7 3770k, GTX 770, on Asus H61, for a mates son, who wants to play CS:GO... I keep getting occational bluescreens. And programmes failing to finish installs. Otherwise, system runs fine - nothing slow, nothing "bad". I'm trying to get Windows 10 to run stable: I've swapped out every single part in the system. (CPU 3770k/4400; GPU GTX 1660 Super/GTX 770/RTX 2080; RAM 1 stick of 8/ 2 known good of 4/ 2 known good of 2; SSD: Personal test disk (Samsung 850 Pro)/ PNY 120gb Sata/Kioxia 480gb; PSU: Corsair VS550/Corsair CX700; mobo: Asus H61/MSI Z77A-G45, new SATA-cables) I've disconnected all non-essential parts and. I've run off integrated graphics I've used the newest install-media as well as 5 other older versions, all the way back to H21-editions, to install Windows. I've rolled back Nvidia drivers from the latest for the card: 474,14m 474.04, 472.12, 466.77, and older... I've installed network drivers manually, and updated all drivers. I've run the DISM and SFC commands in CMD as admin I've cleared CMOS, updated BIO I've tried 2 different USB sticks for the installer I'm now, completely out of ideas and I don't wanna read any more "just install our programme to fix all your shit"... thanks for any help in advance... *Info requested in "BSOD posting instructions..." - OS: Windows 10 - 64bit - Not OEM or full retail, own install - new system, old hardware - Reinstalled several times - Intel I7 3770k - Nvidia GTX 770 - Asus P8H61-W PRO - Corsair VS550; 550 watt - Desktop

Hi there! Any advice on how to "check smart stats" or something, on a USB device? I've done Crystal Disk Mark, but I have no clue what I'm actually looking for. I've also tried the first 10 things on Google that's not "download this random programme"... youtube is my next go to, hut I'm just gonna throw a hook out here aswell? Thanks in advance for any pointers or hints

@06:00 minutes (https://youtu.be/f-dGcs6bb5U?t=360), he specifically says "for as little as 20 bucks you can get yourself set up with an SDR or Software Defined Radio, that with often free software can be used to do anything from wifi-analysis, like we're doing today, to amateur radio, to building your own GSM network, and so on"... ... So it's in Linus' own words, not all diagnostics, and the hardware costs 20 bucks - as opposed to several hundreds for a signal amplifier, at least as far as I can see in my local market... )

Hi there In the LTT video from the 4th of December 2022 ("It took months to solve this Wi-Fi problem... but I did", Linus mentions that you can use a Software Defined Radio to set up a GSM network... I looked at the resource in the describtion, nothing about GSM. The thing is, my office place is in a basement, I would love to improve the signal for GSM and possibly LTE here - is that what he means, or is it a totally private/of-grid network? I'm not looking to sped 500-1000 dollars to fix the problem, but the cheap SDR he mentions, sounds very appealing - if it can boost cellphone reception. Does anyone have any ressources to learn or a recommendation for hardware?

Yeah - I have parts, 1st gen I7's, 2nd and 4th gen I5's + motherboards and so on... but, I wanted to know what specs are required to run my usecases most efficiently... Also: I don't wanna buy a prebuild, I wanna understand want goes in and why - wanna learn and experiment along the way. Just as I did with building gaming PC's years ago. Thanks for the replay though.

So... I would like to set up a NAS and have remote access over the internet to it - but I'm a complete noob, so I'm looking for: - Advice for hardware specs. I mostly need to store officefiles, largest are around 1gb I think. But would like to be able to download and upload larger files too. I have 5 2tb hdds which is plenty, since I have about ½ a tb of files atm. I'm looking for the most power efficient setup beyond that; CPU, RAM, etc. Would I need an SSD for the bootdrive, or does that have no value? - Advice for software and setup. I wanna run my server with a "full redundency" or whatever it's called, so all the data is fully backs up/mirrored: i.e. I have 10tb available in total, so 5tb for direct storage and 5 for a "mirror image". I think it's a raid setup I need, as fas as I understand -but which one? As stated earlier, the entire point is, I need to access my server over the web when I'm not home, otherwise I have no need for the server. I just don't wanna run my personal rig all day, all night. The more it feels and looks like Windows, the better. I don't want the "absolute best" if the next tear down is good enough and a lot cheaper. I have dropbox and I'm taking files in and out of that daily (have 15gb on it) - so that's an inconvenience I'm used to and it has to be worth it to avoid... if that makes sense? If you have any ressources/guides on how to set up the software as securely as possible; two factor, etc? Hobe there's help out there - thanks in advance

I've recently build a PC for a good friend of mine (november) and it's been perfect for him until today, he called me and explained: Problem: So for, this only occurs when playing World of Warships. When the secondary monitor is plugged in, between 30 seconds and 5 minutes into the game, the screens goes black and GPU fans ramp to 100%. When he unplugs the secondary monitor, all is well. Specs: Case: Fractal Meshify C, with 5 120mm fans CPU: Ryzen 5800X (w. Darkrock Pro 4 cooler - max 73c) MOBO: Asus ROG Strix X570-F Gaming (bios version: 4021) GPU: Gigabyte RTX 3080 Ti Gaming OC (max 75c) PSU: Corsair RM1000x (A-tier on: https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psu-tier-list-rev-148/) RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3600 CL16 (2x16) - Stock cables, plenty airflow, VRM is cool enough, all is good. - Windows 10, latest updates Primary monitor: 32" 144hz, 1440p (the one the game runs on) Secondary monitor: 24" 144hz, 1080p Solutions? As far as I can read on forums; here, Nvidia, EVGA, Toms, it's either: (a) the drivers and a DDU + an install of a previous version would fix it - but we've tried 2 different ones (472.47 and 511.79) (b) the power spikes the 30-series makes after clock-streching... but the PSU is litterally the highest tier and it's stock cables, not pinched. Could it be XMP? Or mobo bios? Or Windows update? I'm mostly asking, because I'm going to his place (he lives 2 hours away by car) to fix it on Monday, and wanted some second oppinions on where to start (my thinking is changing to other PCI-E cables from the pack it came with first) Thanks in advance

THANK YOU - thought my trusty 1080ti had bit the dust

Nope. Tried: hitting pause/break once and then delete to enter BIOS and just hitting pause/break... Thanks though.

So... here I am again, with another old motherboard that doesn't want to coorporate. I have gotten my grubs on a Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD3R, and trying to install Windows 10 on an SSD in it. It has an old version of Win10 on a HDD, but hell... Also, i'd just like to be able to get into my bios on it in general... But that's the problem. I start it up and press delete (the button it says I should to enter bios), in goes to the splash-screen for a few seconds, and then reboot... This happens when I try to enter the boot menu as well on F12... or End to enter Q-flash When I don't press anything, it boots just fine... I have tried: - Replacing the CMOS battery, making sure to drain the caps - Going at it from Windows settings, but I don't see the option to enter UEFI in the advanced boot menu - A PS/2 keyboard, because I thought it might be the USB fucking something up. - plugging the keyboard into 6 different USB-ports and one on the case I/O - removing the chance for it to boot into windows, by removing the harddrive, that just says "insert proper media and restart" - Reseating the GPU and RAM and replacing the RAM - resetting CMOS with the jumpers on the motherboard... Anyone have any more ideas?