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About BecauseICanTBH

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  1. Just block all their BS "preview" builds in Group Policy Editor. There's no need to be a lab rat for their sketchy, untested releases.
  2. I've never cleaned my monitor. I lift up my keyboard and sneeze on the underside of it, so nothing ever gets on my monitor to make it dirty. The bottom of my keyboard has taken more sneezes than I can count. To dust my screen I just use a face cloth or whatever.
  3. Might want to consider a Ryzen 9 3900X or a Ryzen 7 3800X, 3700X or 2700X for the CPU instead of Intel. I went AMD for the first time just a few months ago. They eat Intel CPUs for breakfast at their headquarters, without any milk.
  4. Are you watching the Falcon Heavy launch in your profile pic?
  5. Run Recuva on it and see what he had on it that he thought he deleted before he gave it to you.
  6. I've never used an AMD CPU either. Had loads of Intel ones throughout my life. But after threadripper 3 came out, I upgraded my 8700k to a TR 3960X. It was either that for $1,400 or Intel's "comparable" W-3175X for $3,000. I have this thing PPT limited and it scores 13k in cinebench. Pretty incredible.
  7. @minibois What kind of headphones from Beyerdynamic do you have?
  8. Asus quality in a nutshell: Can't stand that company & I agree that I will never buy anything from them again. Toshiba statistically has the most reliable HDDs. I listed WD because there was a point in time when, for about 5 years, one single WD Green HDD was my only point of storage for about 1.2 TB of personal pics and vids that I took on my phones over the years, and loads of personal documents all the way back to when I was a kid. It got thrown around, dropped, brought across the US and back, and it still held up until I finally got my data storage/redundancy act together. Had it failed, I would've lost a lifetime of data. My fleet of HDDs is now Toshiba, but I agree, they're loud. I can vouch for Monoprice reliability as well. I use their cables for analog audio. I only listed Bose because their stuff has been incredibly reliable for me. I use Beyerdynamic DT1990s + AudioQuest Dragonfly Red DAC/amp for music. I can't say much about their longevity/reliability yet though.
  9. ITT we list categories that we have experience with and give the brand that has proven to us to be the most reliable. Of course, everyone's experiences with different brands will vary. But I'm curious to see some perspective on this. Some of my personal list is not necessarily based on broad experience. For example, Kingston is the only company I've ever bought RAM from, and I don't think I've ever owned a non-MSI motherboard. Nevertheless, they haven't failed me. Remember, this is only about reliability, not speed or any other metric. PHONES: Apple PREBUILT SYSTEMS: Dell CPU: AMD (I've owned countless Intel CPUs and only 2 from AMD. Never had a failure from either of them, but my AMD ones behave much more consistently.) GPU: NVIDIA MOTHERBOARD: MSI RAM: Kingston PSU: Seasonic HDD: Western Digital FLASH STORAGE: Sandisk/Western Digital (they're the same company for those who don't know) AIR COOLING: Noctua ROUTERS/SWITCHES: Linksys ANY SOUND EQUIPMENT: Bose UPS & POWER/SURGE STRIPS: Tripplite USB CABLES/ADAPTERS/HUBS: Tripplite HDMI/DP CABLES/ADAPTERS/HUBS: Tripplite You don't have to use these categories, just list what you have experience with.
  10. I love how @LinusTech actually has the time to reply to this nonsense
  11. Your opinion isn't exactly humble anymore once you've come out and openly called it humble.
  12. Undervolting with Ryzen Master worked perfectly. Very simple, instantly reversible, and I got it down to a comfortable 82C under full load. Thanks everyone.
  13. Simple enough. Thanks! Lowering the PPT limit in BIOS didn't seem to do anything for me. Where's eco mode?
  14. I have a Threadripper 3960X and it's not adequately cooled by my Noctua NH-U9 when it's consistently at full load. Surprising, I know. I don't like running it at 95C and getting a larger cooler is not an option for several reasons. And I'm not going to water cool it. Is there an easy way that I can underclock or power limit my CPU in Ryzen Master or the MSI BIOS?