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laptopnoob678

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  1. I need a KVM switch, and was hoping to just buy whatever is cheapest However, I have a 240hz 1080p monitor + 75hz 1080p monitor, but I'm looking to upgrade soon to 2x 1440p monitors, with at least 1 having 165hz. Will any old KVM switch work? I've seen some say 4k @ 60hz, or 4k @ 30hz How do I know which one to get? Thanks
  2. I have a Corsair 275R and noticed when I first switch it on, it makes a weird alarm noise. It's not very loud, but it's very high pitched, just a single continuous tone. It's been doing it since I switched my PC on about 5-10 minutes ago, until a couple of minutes ago when the rear case fan came on and it stopped at the exact same time. It definitely stopped too, it's not like it's being drowned out by the fan. Temps all seem fine. CPU and motherboard temps are all < 30C. GPU is <40C (ambient temp is only ~15C) It's a Gigabyte B660M with a 13600K and AK620 cooler if that matters Thanks
  3. Yep. I have the exact same motherboard (except I have the Micro ATX DDR4 version) and CPU. It has Q Flash Plus so you can upgrade the BIOS without any components installed. Everything works fine and I haven't had any issues with power delivery from the motherboard. I can't say anything about overclocking/undervolting though because I haven't really looked into it fully yet.
  4. I looked up the Z690-A Pro here and it's quite a bit more. £200 compared to the B660M GAMING X which is £130 I don't care about a USB-C port, so other than that, am I going to experience other issues? Can I trust that the CPU performance won't be limited by the motherboard? I don't think I'll be overclocking it any time soon Also there's the AX version which is a little more expensive, but it seems like that is just the same thing with wifi
  5. I guess I could buy a G6900 and then re-sell it eBay for pretty much the same amount Will be a little bit of hassle but if the MSI Pro is worth it, that could be an option
  6. Thanks! Is it worth paying a little extra £20/$30 for the ATX version of the mATX? I will have 2 sticks of RAM (3200 or 3600) and 2 NVMe SSDs and a 6800 XT in it
  7. Hi everyone, I bought a 13600K and I'm not sure which motherboard to get for it I do know I want the cheaper B660M chipset and DDR4 though. I watched this video here and it seems like the MSI Pro B660M-A is the best, but unfortunately it doesn't allow updating the BIOS without a supported CPU (which I don't have) Also, I've always been a laptop user so I didn't even know VRM was a thing that mattered, or that motherboards could limit CPU performance So which is the best motherboard I can get that will allow me to update the BIOS and support the 13600K, and not limit performance? The CPU cooler is a Deepcool AK620 WH and the case is a Corsair 275R Airflow if that matters Thanks
  8. I would also go for a Legion 5 with 5800H + 3060 (or 3070 if it's not too much more) Screen has a better response time too even though it has a lower refresh rate and the laptops themselves are solid. I love mine
  9. Thanks. What's the difference with pre-cured? What would I need to do that's different?
  10. Thanks Just found some Reddit threads from a Google search and glad to know it wasn't just down to me doing a bad job of re-pasting Any idea where I can get that stuff in the UK?
  11. Yeah, well I stupidly re-pasted my Legion 5 (because performance was great with the default stuff) with MX-4 and the CPU would hit 95-100 Tried Kryonaut and had the same problem. Tried spreading, tried putting some in the middle/X pattern and using the heatsink to spread it, etc. Made sure the heatsink was tight enough, but still performance wasn't great. I was able to get it close to how it came from the factory using SYY-157, I guess because it's thicker, but over a few months temps started creeping up again. Yesterday I opened my laptop up to change the SSD, and decided to check what the spread was like, and re-paste but I ran out of SYY-157 so I had to use MX-4, and temps are horrendous again. I was hoping an IC pad would be maybe 1-2C higher than SYY-157 at load, but at least last a long time without suffering from poor performance. Is there just too much of a gap between the die and heatsink? Would an IC pad be too thin? Thanks
  12. If so, what temps do you get? And which specs? Thanks Edit: also I assume that since the pads aren't the right size, you can just cut them with scissors?
  13. Had some before and it was like Blu-tac (the stuff you use to stick posters on walls, has a texture like dry chewing gum) Very difficult to spread and fully cover a die like in laptops, but it did do a better job of cooling than Kryonaut or any other pastes with lower viscosity. I heard there's a newer batch which is more easily spreadable. Can anyone confirm this? And does it still perform as well as before? Thanks
  14. Yeah. Tried that, tried reinstalling the GPU drivers and the same thing is happening It's like the GPU is capped at 40*C until I reboot, then it's fine And it HAS to be a reboot. Turning it off and back on won't cause the GPU to work
  15. Hi everyone, A couple weeks ago I opened up my laptop (Lenovo Legion 5) to replace the SSDs, and at the same time I re-pasted the CPU and GPU However, I also reinstalled Windows 10, so this could be either software or hardware. Hopefully not hardware! Anyway, the problem is that the GPU seems like it's being throttled. The GPU utilisation will be anything from 0-100, but the FPS will be low, and the GPU temp will be sitting at like 40-45C. Once I reboot, performance goes back to how I expect, and the temp goes up (to ~70-80C) under full utilisation. Always the same, it just takes one reboot, but the next day it's the same again (and I need to reboot it once) What could be causing this? Has anyone ever seen anything like it before?
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