SuperSpowart

Ok, I just wanted to make sure, thanks for the help

But do you think it's possible to run it as long as I lower it's power limit (The power limit of the rtx 2080) as it did previously power a 2060 just fine.

I believe it's a Corsair 550w cv550 80+ bronze psu

I believe I'm using a Corsair cv550 550w 80+ bronze PSU (non-modular)

Is it possible to run a system with a rtx 2080 and a Ryzen 5 3600 on a 550w power supply as long as I lower the power limit on the 2080 using something like afterburner? I do have have plans to upgrade my CPU and PSU in the future but want to start with the gpu as I need a new one because I don't have one at the moment so I need one to get my pc working again.

Thanks for clearing that up, I kept think that by desktop memory people meant like full size ram and not sodimm, thanks for the help.

Hi, I am thinking of upgrading the 8gb of ram in my msi trident 3, it is currently running a single 8gb stick of sodimm ddr4 but im not sure if the ram I current have is a 204 pin stick or a 260 pin stick, I have checked the manual and there is nothing useful there and nothing useful on the official website for my model. Can someone please help? https://www.msi.com/Desktop/Trident-3/Specification

I sadly cannot reinstall GeForce now as it's an issue with trying to sign in to steam on their end and I'm using a Nvidia Shield and I'm trying to see if I can resolve the issue myself

Can someone help me or give me advice to fix an issue I have with GeForce now? I am having an issue with GeForce now where if I try to play any game that's on Steam (all of my games) it connects like normal and takes me into steam big picture where it gives me a prompt within big picture saying "This computer was deauthorized. You must enter a new Steam Guard code to re-authorize it." But when I click the Ok button, it takes me to a blank screen with a faint blue background from big picture, from this point, I cannot do anything to resolve it, I have tried contacting Nvidia but their email section is broken and their live chat isn't available. Can someone help me because I'm worried that I'm paying £5 for nothing.

I recently installed Windows 10 on my mac via bootcamp and to be honest its more stable than osx but the main issue i am having now is thermal throttling and my macs fan doesn't speed up at all and i thought if i could control the fan speed on my mac i could keep it more cooler and the noise of the fan to my preference depending what i am doing by using custom presets but im not sure what software to use or what software is safe, i used to have smcfancontrol on osx but i had to get rid of it to fix an issue but i dont know if there is any good windows software out there.

I would strongly agree to strode that's think Apple is bad and their support is trash, the "geniuses" are geniuses at screwing you. That's why they called the "Genius Bar" the "Genius Bar"

Thanks for your amazing help and all has went well! Alough so far no watermark has popped up but once it does I have my ways of getting around it without removing the watermark or getting a product key.

thanks for letting me know that, ill probably run stuff in windowed to avoid it getting in my way, ill let you know if all goes well later on

will that watermark appear in full screen software like portal 2, i have never really experienced this on windows myself at all when i have used it

will using this to install windows require any product keys after or during installation and do i use the one that is for my acer

i am trying to run the windows 10 edition of minecraft but also other software like razer audio visualizer for my keyboard mouse and mousepad, if you are able to would you be able to provide a URL for a step by step installation guide of windows 10 on mac that would be great. but also i cannot currently afford windows 10 so i have been looking for a cheaper option that is free

to use a partition because virtualbox makes it impossible to run anything else on my system and it also makes the software i am trying to run on windows go slow, the software i am trying to run is some games like portal 2 and minecraft

i believe it is already running 8.1 but i dont have any installation media at all or the tools to open up my mac to put the hdd in it

i want to use the hdd from an acer laptop to boot windows 8 on my mac by using the hdd out of it and plugging into a usb to sata adapter to boot it via my mac over usb or over ethernet. i could add a picture if needed to show what i mean but to get that image i would need to remove the hdd from the laptop again

UPDATE: the device is now unable to charge or receive any power at all but im not sure if its taking any power but i believe that stupid usb otg fan broke it, i watched a video of someone testing a different brand product which is basically identical to it and the device did a very similar thing but how ever it didnt destroy it

I have an old acer laptop which doesn't meet the specs i need so i thought about using the hdd from it to boot on a mac by using a usb to sata adapter and it almost bricked my mac but is there any way to do this without opening my mac mini from 2012 and to be able to boot from that hdd.

So far it hasnt friend my iPhone 5 which is the older model without Touch ID so that might be the cause but it's managed to work perfectly for around 6 hours until it started rapidly discharging without being connected to the fan at all. Thanks for telling me a potential cause.

i have an outdated backup which is 2 years outdated so i still have some of my data but that was off my cracked iPad Air at the time which had the glass break and the touch screen useless but the actual display was fine and i removed the glass and while it was still unlocked i quickly backed it up but when i got my ipad air 2 i just restored it from that backup which had the apple id issues but at least i had my data useable again and i continued to use it and had eventually had unfinished youtube videos on it that was still in the making and more important data, i almost lost my google account because that was my only device with tfa on it, luckily i managed to disable tfa without any issues so i had access to my channel and account again. the worst part was is that when i had my ipad air 2, apple demanded i change the apple id password and i forgot the new one and it wasn't written down or anything, when i was trying to reset it i had a 2nd email already linked to the account which is my gmail and it wouldn`t even let me use it to recover the account, and it was set up as a 2nd backup recovery email i almost forgot, sometimes it can stay on for long enough for me to type in the passsword and open settings and click battery but if the battery had gone bad, wh y hasnt it detected anything, i have let it drain fully for about 1 month and im gonna plug it back in again to see if it starts working again, then i might be able to get my photos off of it. the same morning of the day it died i noticed it wasnt powering my USB OTG fan anymore, i thought it was probably just a bug and ignored it, what if the controller for the usb otg funcion malfunctioned and the devices circuits detected the short when i plugged it in and cut power or reduced it, or potentially that damaged the battery and that might explain it rapidly draining, not sure. OMG I JUST NOTICED, IT LOOKS LIKE IT MIGHT BE SLIGHTLY BENT OR TWISTED edit: it wasnt

i have been thinking about goinng into the store to explain the situation as i have kept the ipad because i do not want someone managing to get their hands on my data such as passwords and etc but just before it died fully i checked the battery status as it was running ios 11.3.3 and it didnt notice anything wrong or any apps that were eating my battery and also thanks for the recommendations i might try those out. i couldn't back it up because it asked for the apple id password which i couldn't reset at all and it would refuse to backup without the apple id password, at one point itunes said my device was authorised to put music and stuff and backup stuff on the device but then complained about it not being authorised and when i tried to authorise it, it would say you have authorised 1 out of your 5 devices or this device is already authorised but then i would try again and fail. However sometimes i can get it to stay on long enough to quickly type in the password and open settings and boom, shut down again but my data is still intact

Around April or march I noticed that my iPad Air 2`s battery started rapidly draining with the original charger with all apps closed and it on its lock screen with wifi off and it was still draining and around 5 minutes later it was dead, so i let it charge and it began to power on and then shut off 10 seconds later complaining about a low battery so i ;let it charge and it says its charging and cannot power on and eventually i let it charge for an entire night which began at 9PM until 7AM and still it was complaining about a low battery, so i tried every trouble shooting step and nothing made a difference and when i went to the Apple Store (which has helped me in the past) they said "we cannot even touch the device without the Apple ID password, which we didnt know so we sent a reset request and then they said "it will take up to 24 hours for it to come through" so i waited and waited about 11 entire month later the message came through saying its ready to be reset and it takes us back to the start of the password recovery process and I followed all instructions and it said it would take up to 24 hours and another month passed with a link back to the start of the recovery page again, so i didnt bother and left my iPad Air 2 with all my memories gone because they couldn't understand one thing WE DON`T HAVE ACCESS TO THE ORIGINAL EMAIL THAT THE ACCOUNT IS UNDER and i tried recovering the password about 1 year before this happened and it asked for an email which i clicked "I don`t have access to any of these" and it asked me for the bank details that were linked to the account, then it asked for phone verification and then asked for the email again and i tried doing it about 3 more times before just giving up and now we don`t have access to that bank card anymore so we only used phone verification and we never got the actual password reset link. If anyone can help please reply. Also heres a funny thing which they said to me when i asked them to downgrade my mac even further because in September 2017 i upgraded to high sierra which made it take forever to even boot up so i asked them to downgrade it to a useable version of os x and at that time, sierra wasnt compatible with my mac and they downgraded it down to os x sierra which seemed stable but around February 2018 i went back and when i showed them the sound my mac had been making since it left warranty and asked them to check it out and before they were done to downgrade it down to os x 10.11 el capitan (because it was more stable when it was running el capitan) and around 1 week later we were told to come and collect it and they said "that we were unable to replicate the problem and it seems perfectly fine" and then said "we could not downgrade it down to os x el capitan because we don`t own the OS anymore" but heres the more annoying thing, when they were getting me to run the diagnostics program through their own server guess what versions of mac os x popped up, all of them from os x 10.13 all the way down to os x 10.9 and their diagnostics stuff and all of the installation files for all of their operating systems starting from os x 10.9 all the way up to 10.13 which includes the one i asked them to downgrade to, and the diagnostics software. I even seen this when they were downgrading my mac to sierra, So basically they gave me false information about their own systems, lied about the fact that you can reset your own apple id password without the bank details and email to recover it and screwed me over. NOTE: To this day they still haven't done anything to help me, so basically their geniuses are geniuses at lying, misleading customers and screwing people over. EDIT: this has also ruined my youtube channel and prevented me from getting my data back.