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zephyr_

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About zephyr_

  • Birthday Aug 31, 2001

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    https://steamcommunity.com/id/Zephyrus1/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia
  • Occupation
    Student

System

  • CPU
    i5 7600k 4.6GHZ
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Z270-HD3
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB 3200MHZ
  • GPU
    Gigabyte RTX 2080
  • Storage
    Sandisk 120GB SSD, Samsung 970 evo (2x),WD blue 500gb m.2 (sata), WD Black 1tb HDD
  • PSU
    750W semi-modular
  • Display(s)
    AORUS 1440P 165HZ 1ms FREESYNC HDR, LG 1920X1080 75HZ
  • Cooling
    Corsair H110i AIO Liquid Cooling
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow Chroma
  • Mouse
    Logitech Hyperion Fury G402
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 PRO

Recent Profile Visitors

385 profile views
  1. i dont mean to necro an old thread but this is the only post i found with the same issue as me but it has no solution listed & i may have solved it so i wanted to add on to this thread so someone else in the future with the same issue might be able to use it too. last night i was playing a game when my pc kept just turning off, not BSOD.. just off. i quickly realised my PSU was making a banging sound in the fan area so i googled the issue and THIS is the only thread i found with the same issue and interestingly we have the exact same PSU besides mine being the 1000W fully modular version.. upon closer inspection i realised that my fan did the same tiny movement followed by a big "clunk" and then it stopping and trying again.. exactly like OP's. i unplugged and drained the PC's power (unplugged and switched off at PSU and then held the power button, idk if that does anything but it made me feel safer lol) & flipped my PC on the side so that i could see the fan (its on the bottom of the case for me) and tried to manually move the fan.. at first i was met with resistance but then i spun it perfectly fine the opposite direction a good 10 times and then back the original direct the same amount of times and was met with no resistance. i then set the PC back up & upon powering on i heard a rather loud sound like plastic grinding for a solid 2 seconds & then the fan was spinning as normal and i've had no issue since.
  2. im new to all this audio stuff so sorry if i get terms etc wrong. i recently got a pair of dt990's 250ohm for fairly cheap & as expected my motherboard isnt handling it too well lol, i've got about $150 AUD to spend so i was looking at something like the scarlett solo or e10k but i honestly have no idea what any of the specs mean. im not sure if its worth noting that i also intend to grab an at2020 at some point in the near future. anyone have any suggestions? thanks for the help
  3. just looking for suggestions,i checked cable mod and they only seem to do up to the straight power 10 & dark power.. i assume i cant use those cables so where should i look?
  4. it happened on any display that isnt the main display. my tv and second monitor are both 1080p/60hz while my main display is 1440p/165.
  5. wdym? i built it myself. 1070/7600K/32gb ram and everything is on SSDs.
  6. tried that a few times and still nothing, the second a game, movie (on hdd), netflix etc enters full screen mode i see a maximum of like 20 fps and it gets worse and worse.. not to mention it seems to glitch a lil back and frames go back and forward kinda. ive changed ports, cords and tested with another TV and nothing solved it. not sure what the issue is but it isnt hardware lol. could it be something to do with the fact that my primary monitor is 1440P/165hz while the tv is 1080/60hz? edit: removed youtube from the list, some reason browser stuff wont do it anymore.
  7. i recently connected my PC to my tv via DP and for some reason the Tv will have frame issues in any application if it is full screen.. like even watching movies will cause stuttering unless its just been stretched to fit the screen (although the task bar is still visible which is annoying). any ideas? i tried messing around in nvidia settings but found nothing to help
  8. "a lot of games", well yes..but thats because most games are old lol. 2020 titles youll struggle for 200 fps but older or less demanding titles youll be good.. games like CSGO etc youll do great with.
  9. well easy way to test if its the GPU.. switch to onboard graphics and test something. tbf if its the PSU (which id say it IS) this may make it seem like the GPU is the issue since theres not the same power draw anymore & thus the issue may not present itself again. if it was the GPU however you'd probs be getting issues like artifacting (seeing white dots,purple boxes etc in game) so its probs the PSU. either way you should REALLY get a new PSU dude, even a 450W bronze is enough for that rig for a while.. better than burning your house down.
  10. wait i just tested my SATAIII SSD (sandisk 120gb) and got 500~, you plugged the drive into SATAIII right and not SATAII right?
  11. yeah i took the panel off for a while but the issue is that if the case lights are on there's a giant mf strip of LEDs at the front panel that become exposed and burns a hole in my eyes lmao, also very ugly. i have a buddy whos done quite a few things related to CAD but i most certainly don't have access to any tools id need for something like that (im 18, just started the aussie version of college so i aint got shit). might just have to wait a few months to i can upgrade my PC in general and get another case. thanks for the suggestion though.
  12. hello, i have a phanteks eclipse p400s and i love the case but the only issue is that the front panel offers pretty much no airflow, i am really not confident enough nor do i have the time to start cutting a hole in the panel etc myself so i was wondering if anyone knows any reliable places where i could just buy a modded panel with better air flow or something similar? thanks & any advice is welcomed too.
  13. after a lot of messing around i got it to work with my monitor running from my GPU and the tv from my IGPU; i went to bios and in chipset i found some setting called "internal graphics" which was set to "disabled" (gigabyte bios), turned it on and ran the HDMI from the tv to my motherboard and it restarted my pc. then pressed the windows key and p at the same time and pressed duplicate. thanks to everyone who responded
  14. it recently clicked in my head that i have a spare tv that i could put at the end of my bed and lay in bed to watch netflix etc, i was going to use my pc (which would be about 3m away from the tv lol) with a giant hdmi cord i have to just connect it to my pc and go on about using it essentially as another monitor. problem though, my 1070 only has 1 HDMI port which is being used already; without buying more shit is there an easy solution to this? any way that i could plug the HDMI from the tv into my mobo instead of the gpu (running a 7600K so it has an IGPU) and it get it to work that way since i don't actually need great gpu performance to output netflix and youtube?
  15. the 2700 is a better cpu all round. i dont really see how a 1700 is bottleneck a 1070 ti or even a 1080ti though bottlenecks are subjective. anyway id def go 2700 here if i was you.
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