TheSilverKing

I just tested them with the windows test tones really quickly, but yeah they seemed to be fine. Had always unplugged them previously with the AVR disconnected from power but I was checking to make sure I had wired them right after swapping around for troubleshooting (AVR was unplugged then) and didn’t think to unplug.

I was checking the connections and unplugged and replugged my front two left and right speakers (I use banana plugs if it matters) while the AVR was plugged in but powered on, is it likely it damaged anything? Speakers seem fine, AVR still powers on.

I’m also undervolted .900 @1920mhz but afterburner likes to screw that up too and do .950 @ 1935mhz a lot of time. It’s really not a particularly reliable program in my experience but I haven’t found an alternative.

My custom fan curve in MSI afterburner got messed up somehow. I run a baseline 35% with the fans going to 50% at 80c, but I had been playing indies so I set the fan back to stock until I downloaded a particularly intense Teardown map. I set the fan curve back to my custom and played Teardown for about 30min. However, when I checked HWinfo I saw that my GPU had not moved from 35% despite it hitting 85c. Afterburner crashed on me (program not responding, reporting problem to Microsoft) when I clicked OK to apply the fan curve, so despite the fact that it changed the resting state I’m assuming AB wasn’t hooking into the gpu correctly. that said, peak 85c, average 71c, would that have done anything to the gpu over a 30min span?

With the default fan curve (18% constant even when idle, maxes out at 38%, with the card undervolted to .900v/1920mhz) my temps are 73-80c when I play something particularly demanding. If I put the fans at a constant 35% which I don’t find too loud, the temps top out in the high 60s low 70s. Though I do wonder what amount more wear I’d be putting the fan through for that extra 17% of fan all the time.

I’ve been using an SK Hynix PC601 512GB NVMe as a boot drive for the last three years and eight months. For a year and a half it was basically my primary game drive that I used to store some pretty big games and I have also done a few full format and reinstalls of Windows on it. Host writes is sitting at 19,877GB and Host reads is at 76,085GB. However, the reported lifespan of the drive is still 99%. I can’t find any hard data on the TBW specs of this drive, but with almost 20TBW, 99% seems like a high estimate. Is that even realistic?

Unless I’m missing something, 2/67 gave a positive. “Bkav Pro W32.AIDetectMalware” and “Trapmine Malicious.high.ml.score” I’m not sure what these things mean and couldn’t find much about them when I looked. Malwarebytes and Windows Defender both didn’t find anything though.

Here are the links I used (I used the first one first with the offline installer, then reinstalled windows as I wasn’t sure it was legit (the official site for the OpenIV program is down and has been for three months) and installed from the second one. My recent experience with Minecraft mods getting viruses made me a bit worried about this program so I then: reinstalled windows 11 from a clean bootable usb deleted all the partitions on my C drive and let the windows installer make a new one deleted all the partitions on my storage drives and remade them in windows a couple days later I realized I should probably reflash my BIOS just to be safe, so I used a clean laptop to make a BIOS flashing usb as well. links https://gta5mod.net/gta-5-mods/tools/openiv-3-1/ https://archive.org/details/openiv_202304 What made me so paranoid was this VirusTotal scan https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/bb476bef066592e17b65ac5d12306ee55fc33065402bd3be3591cf5f04cdf6e6 did I do things backwards by reflashing the bios second? mods, I’m unsure what forum this should go to, so please feel free to move it if I have put it in the wrong place.

I’ve a prebuilt Alienware R9 with a really loud blower 2080 Super, so I tend to undervolt and run a low fan speed of 40% from about 50c to 80c. This worked fine until recently, now whenever I try to save the .900@1920mhz curve either: MSI AB makes my flat line look more like a few stair steps when I apply it runs the wrong clock (1935-1950mhz, both of which I’ve found are not quite stable) or it runs the wrong voltage (typically 1v) I have tried everything I can think of, short of full windows wipe. reinstalling AB, updating from 4.64 to beta 4.65, checking the settings before I game to make sure they’re right… nothing works and this is getting really annoying.

I was originally going to do a Sony core setup with 4x SSCS5 and the matching center. I’ve got the Sony front three at the moment, but I’ve found these Fluance ones that in my research I did not see mentioned. https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Surround-Including-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B07C4KBN1N

I’m looking to get a home theater together over the next few months or so and the first item I want to consider (since it’s a possible Christmas gift ask since my family keeps asking about that) is an AVR. My tv is a Q80R and has a skipping audio issue when you route the audio through the tv (speakers from the tv itself are real bad and skip every few secs but other things skip every few minutes, don’t seem to do so when I run everything through my soundbar so I’d assume an AVR would be fine). Given this would prob be a gift request, I’d like to avoid used as my mom’s super weird about used stuff and will not purchase anything used. I’d like to find the cheapest option that’s still good. Speaker recs also nice, I’ll be putting together a 3 channel setup first, then sub, then rears. I don’t wanna spend a ton on speakers (sub $200 for the LRC would be nice.) also prefer no used there.

Receiver: https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-SR393-5-2-Channel-Receiver/dp/B07T3PRK4L Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Jamo-Studio-803-HCS-WH-Cinema/dp/B07JJP96NT/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1BNNNWHPNKYJJ&keywords=Jamo+Studio+Series+S+803&qid=1668134201&s=electronics&sprefix=jamo+studio+series+s+803%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-1 I had also been looking at some of the monoprice options under $200 but I’m not sure how they’d compare to those.

I’ve tried basically every combo I can think of but I’m really not sure what to go with. Feed PS5 to tv, ARC to sound bar, use Dolby (I don’t think the Samsung supports DTS, but the sound bar does)? Feed PS5 to sound bar and use LPCM? VRR is a big old mess either way, it flashes black and then eventually basically crashes the tv with a “resolution not supported” message when I try to play Spider-Man with 120hz (even with system resolution set to 1080p, though I could’ve sworn it auto adjusted to 1080p before) regardless of feeding through sound bar or into tv. I'm pretty lost here, not gonna lie. Everything would probably be better with buying a new TV but I’d have to get basically the cheapest 2.1 capable set I could find which would probably be a picture quality downgrade. vRR works fine on my 2080 Super fwiw so I think it is just the ps5?

Do you think it harmed the motherboard? Or would that be more of a long term consequence? I put it back to my usual -.120 undervolt and put the voltages stock right after I noticed it got so much voltage.

I’m using an Alienware prebuilt (I know, it was a gift) and I was trying to do a fixed voltage undervolt from 1.22v to 1.18v using throttlestop and when I ran a benchmark HWInfo reported something like 1.35 volts and my cpu pulled 135w instead of cutting off at 100w like it usually does it hit 123w and 86c. The benchmark only took about 5 minutes and I set everything back to stock after but I’ve heard you’re not supposed to overvolt and wondering how much of my CPU’s life I took off with this mistake/accident.