War_Wizard

Thanks for the effort. It's appreciated. I know what I am asking is rather niche and limited.

I'm aware of getting the right drive for the proper use. while not as good as some people here, and certainly not as good as linus (i cant program to same my life), I do know a few things about hardware. I simply wanted a better fail chart.

I just entered a discussion today on HDD fail rates. During said conversation, fail rate charts came up, and the only information you can find is from "backblaze", which I find highly biased and mis-informative. Here is why : 1) they are the only information for fail rates that you can currently find on the web (at least for me anyway...) 2) the numbers on the fail rates are padded HIGHLY, as follow : a) some drives are tested in excess of 40,000 or more drives, while others are shown at around 1,000 drives. b) testing is done with limited companies and drive sizes Can anyone point me to a more accurate and less biased fail rate chart (i.e. one NOT from backblaze)??

Firs off, neither the owner nor myself have the funds to replace the laptop. Second, the magnet is NOT for the case lid. Third, the powersupply is new (I bought it myself). Fourth, the thermals are within spec. I have Aida64 and CAM both installed. Fifth, the laptop does NOT shut off under load (example : gaming), but ONLY from idol. And, at idol, thermals are 41C average. Lastly, the fans don't make more noise than designed. They BOTH work flawlessly.

Ok, lets see if anyone knows just what the HELL is going on with this laptop a friend wants me to fix. Background : Friend bought this laptop new from bestbuy, and it came with a basic platter HDD. The system has had a habit of blowing HDD's, and generally crashing. The things I have fixed are so far, are fried thermal paste, updated bios, changed HDD 3 times (2 failed), repaired screen mounting brackets on LCD side. Lastly, I removed a MAGNET from the hard drive tray which was factory deliberately installed, glued in place in a plastic housing, and painted over to hide it (and NO I am not talking about the subwoofer magnet, which happens to be on the exact opposite of the hard drive mounting from THIS tiny magnet which is strong enough to hold a mechanics impact socket to a fridge securely And, is located next to a screw mounting for the hard drive bracket). And, lastly, the power cable from the side of the case that plugs into the motherboard (it became rather melted and charred, and is a "common" problem with this craptop. Which, if you ask me, is most certainly NOT common. When things overheat, melt, and turn black, I call that a problem, not a commonality). The specific issue this laptop has which I have NOT been able to fix is the freeze-crashing, which turns the laptop off. My nearest guess is that its somehow tied to the idiotic GPU pipeline, because Lenovo piped the 860m chip directly THROUGH the 4600 graphics (if you attempt to shut off the intel crappics, the nvidia chip is also turned off. period.). The laptop, running valid windows 10, fully updated, will randomly freeze, with no inputs working, but the cursor on the screen blinking a moment, then the laptop just shuts down. All within about 3 seconds, roughly. **editted : 1) replaced power supply, new, 2) changed graphics number. i put 8600 and its 4600.**

I appreciate the replies. However, I wasn't throwing this out as a end all be all. I just felt compelled to throw an idea out for something less than ideal. Again, thank you for the replies

So, here I am driving you crazy with something you probably don't want to hear (like LED overkill). I have an idea which MAY make fridge cooling viable. 1) Fridge (mini) 2) water reservoir that does NOT freeze 3) Industrial based closed loop low pressure plate heat exchanger 4) water cooling system of choice The idea is expensive, however, the main issue with fridge cooling is the lack of air flow. You design a water block inside the fridge, and use the exchanger to cool OUTSIDE the fridge where you now have airflow. Granted, the idea is probably minimal, and like watercooling has imbedded ambient temperature flux. However, its a way to make the system viable, if minimally. The way i picture it being done is make a pc with water cooling, make the fridge, and tie the cooling system into the fridge as a booster. Not a primary cooler. Both the fridge and the primary pc liquid cooling systems are closed loop and not tethered directly. Only through the crossover block. That way, the primary cool is the pc as originally designed, and the fridge system isn't overwhelmed... Granted, the idea is rather limited, but I am unable to think of a better way to make this idea viable in any other way. The idea is similar to the way the failed water cooling PSU was designed (a link to that for reference) : http://koolance.com/1300-1700w-liquid-cooled-power-supply Should you need a reference link for the crossover block (heat exchanger) here is one : https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bell-Gossett-BP400-30LP-175000-BTU-Hr-Low-Pressure-BPX-Brazed-Plate-Heat-Exchanger-12689000-p?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6J7YBRC4ARIsAJMXXsfzlKX-jHfZtRVvVhfMv02sRJoI6opR0iaYlH7qss181Z6oIWPBwvkaAownEALw_wcB If I was not a poor military veteran on a limited income, I would make the system myself and post more viable data on it. Perhaps you can try it out and see if I'm smart or a epic fail.