hazeyez

@Gorgon gotcha, thanks for taking the time here man. I will consider and likely do the cloning. I honestly may just opt for a backup and reinstall. Even if I do the cloning, I think I'll just back up my files since they are fairly critical. In either scenario it sounds like (mentioned earlier) you recommend keeping the volumes separate from the 2.5" versus the M.2 which I am ultimately fine with. To @Lurking's point and question - I'm not sure what I am trying to do either now lol. I've never kept my OS install and data on separate partitions. The original idea was ultimate to combine all 3 drives into 1. I like having just one drive, but I guess it doesn't matter if I don't. I understand the complications that come with trying to merge them and it isn't worth it. Thanks for the insight guys, I will act accordingly.

@PC Player the real answer here is -- it actually does not matter which card (brand) you buy. I just personally would choose the known best manufacturers like Asus, Gigabyte, MSI before ever considering the others. THAT was my point, ultimately. Certain brands have better tweaks than others at certain price points. I saw the that 6800xt did have slightly better performance with 1440p / 2k gaming on some games compared to the RTX line up. As such, the other answer is you should do your own market and performance research and decide which card is best for you. You are also correct, the 6800xt has 16gb VRAM compared to the 3080ti's 12 GB. Nothing wrong with getting a 6800xt, and at this point I regret even mentioning comparing it to an Nvidia card because it does not matter. The only reason I did was because you seemed like you were new to purchasing a GPU in general, and I personally think that RTX has better technology in general. And yes, AMD cards give performance on a budget. I simply picked what I thought would be Nvidia's market-comparison as for specs & used prices, when comparing it to a 3080ti. SO - sounds like you already have your sights set on the 6800xt. My final recommendation to pick a manufacturer - is do not listen to people on these message boards. Do your own research.

@KaitouX What's wrong with userbenchmark? These are actual MARKET-aggregated stats directly from consumer use-cases and what's great is it'll show you performance based on other hardware in the build setups AND it shows multiple relevant data points comparatively. Some of the sites you showed are strictly limited to to simple FPS results, or 3DMark time spy scores. I did, however, factor in other benchmark sources when I stated both the 6800XT & 3080ti were "on par." I just linked userbenchmark in my post because it showed the greatest disparity between the two, and also broke down the pros and cons of each across many data points. If you want to use the sources you referenced, sure okay, the 3080ti still outperforms. I am aware that Sapphire has great coolers for AMD cards, but to my point and your question to try and make me look dumb - yes I stand by my statement. Compared to the whole of the GPU market, Sapphire and Powercolor are notoriously "discount" brands. In fact, PowerColor is simply a trademark of TUL Corp who notoriously was the largest provider is DISCOUNT cards to the European & Asian markets. Sapphire itself is one of the smallest players by revenue-size in the GPU market space. They're based in Hong Kong, where as Asus & Gigabyte (also, by the way - the two largest players in the GPU AIB market) are based in Taiwan. Chinese manufacturers notoriously have cheaper/discounted products - and when you also factor in smaller market share in ANY market - that translates into the resulted product quality. Now, admittedly - as great as I am on global markets, finance and economics, I know very little about AMD products. SO maybe not the best to speak on this, but to simply try and help answer OP's question as I did - Asus & Gigabyte would be the preferred manufacturers for ANY AIB GPU card based purely on performance. If ~10 degree cooler thermal temps at full load are more important to OP, then sure, consider Sapphire. Outside of a (slightly) better cooling design, and this does not mean the others lack efficient cooling, I personally not see why anyone would buy a Sapphire brand card - just like Zotac for Nvidia.

@Gorgon Aheh, you're a gem! Didn't know I could clone the windows drive to the nvme. I have Samsung Magician to check drive health, never looked at the other features. But are you sure this is a good idea and worth it? If what you're suggesting is to have two separate volumes anyway - I think I'd rather not risk cloning the windows drive because that could have potential issues in and of itself, no? My current second D: drive is mostly a 100gb virtual machine, and holding my photography files. Easy to backup/move. Bulk of the games are on C: (only 3 or 4 games, nothing crazy.) My work files are the biggest mess scattered all over, but I can get them in order. Now that I look at it, the second 500gb drive is a Crucial MX500, it appears I cheaped out because I bought these during the chip crisis 3-4 years back when prices spiked. Was the difference of $50 for the MX500, versus $100 for the Samsung 860. Think I should still be able to merge them, no? I think these are my options, tell me what you think: 1) Just install the M.2 drive and leave 3 separate volumes. 2) Reinstall windows on the M.2 drive, and merge the 2x 500gb drives as you recommended. 3) Use RAID, which now seems like the most feasible option to avoid any potential issues and get the true effect I want.

I saw the rx6800xt was on par with the 3080ti on overall benchmark reports, but I was referencing this https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-RX-6800-XT-vs-Nvidia-RTX-3080-Ti/4089vs4115 when saying that maybe the 3080ti is better. I don't mess with AMD GPUs, and I actually have a 3080ti.. but what can you tell me about the rx6800xt? Maybe I'm wrong - maybe they're on par.

I mean, it doesn't really matter - they're all the same. If you're going for an aftermarket brand and not an AMD founders version - each company basically overclocks and tweaks just about the same. One brand may differ from the other ever so slightly, but I don't think it matters. I would buy an Asus or Gigabyte, in that order. MSI if the other two aren't available at your price point. Stay away from the rest like Sapphire and Powercolor, they're like the chinese/walmart brands for every GPU. Why don't you consider a 3080ti if this is what you want? Are you trying to <removed>, or keep it fully AMD-built? I never understood sacrificing performance for that. You can get a 3080ti for the same price, if not cheaper - and I think the performance variance is worth it.

Hello, I have 2x Samsung 870 Evo drives @ 500gb each. Started with one, with windows installed on it obviously. Added the other as a separate volume D, which is annoying. Now I'm completely out of storage and instead of continuing to add additional drives one by one, I opted to upgrade this machine with a 2TB sized Samsung 980 Pro NVMe, M.2. I am trying to figure out the best way to go about this, and I'd really rather not reinstall windows - which would mean backing up all my stuff and the reinstalling everything. I dread that thought, BUT I am prepared to undertake that task if need be. The bulk of the storage is a couple of games, easy enough - so my files should fit all onto one 256gb thumb drive. I thought I'd have to use RAID or something to merge all the drives into one (in theory) - and I know that is an option, but Windows Disk Manager also allows you to merge volumes. I think if volume D was cleared and formatted, it could merge into C, correct? Which would mean if I just added the 2TB M.2 drive as an additional volume, it too could just merge into C? I'm wondering if that ^^ is feasible, and the easiest route here - no need to reinstall windows. As much as I'd like to have windows boot from the M.2 now, I'm not going to get that picky here. Should I (can I) do that? Should I use RAID? Is there another option? Should I just backup my files and reinstall windows on the M.2? Now that I think about it - a fresh install would be nice. Help me geek squad.. thanks!

All, Thanks for viewing. Current specs of the machine in question are in my signature footer below. I have two other advanced machines, one gaming and one for ML but this one is my daily driver. Recently been experiencing a severe performance issue due to lack of available RAM @ 16gb, and ran out of storage, so I figured - why not just do some slight upgrades to it and keep it current? Currently running 4x 4gb Crucial Ballistix PC4-19200 DDR4-2400MHz CL16. I just purchased Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 PC4-25600 CL16, to upgrade to. On this machine, I run the Gigabyte z390 Aorus Elite mobo which is rated to overclock RAM, with an i5-9600k cpu. You can see HERE that intel rates this CPU at DDR4-2666, but HERE rates all of its 9th gen CPUs at 2666 MT/s. Interesting... didn't CPUs have their on cap on ram speeds, because it holds the memory controller? I know they cap GB size RAM supported, and thought they capped speed... Now, THIS article states that MHz is the incorrect attribute for RAM speed adverts. That a 3200 MHz RAM, really is 3200 MT/s, which is ultimately running at 1600 MHz ? Question #1 - What gives ^^ ? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Question #2 - I want to know if the new RAM being 3200 MHz, and my mobo being rated to overclock RAM to 3200 MHz and more... will my CPU bottleneck it at 2666 xxx ? What even is the 2666 being advertised in that first Intel link, and if it actually is MT/s and not MHz - then what does that translate into MHz? Question #3/4 - Going from 4 DIMM sockets to 2, I plan to use channels B2/A2 - and should still get the benefits of Dual channel, right? Then when overclocking in BIOS, I want XMP 2 enabled, correct? Thanks!

Thank bud, cheers.

Tried hard factory reset, no good.

Hey @191x7 thanks for responding... I did not try a factory reset via the manual menu buttons. Although, I did try to change the resolution & frequency. I did power cycle it which would reset it in theory, no? No luck on either. I will try a manual factory reset later this morning. Any other ideas? There's always the chance that the monitor is just smoked, but I just don't see that being the case here. It's practically brand new, supposedly a good quality screen and what's happening with that CapCut app in the video just makes me feel it's something dumb.

Have this monitor - 27GL83A-B on a gaming set up with a 3080ti GPU, and display port cable. Out of nowhere last week, two-thirds of the screen became fuzzy & blurred. It also sometimes varies from half to full screen, depending on action taken. I've recorded videos that can be viewed HERE: https://imgur.com/a/h9fE8Pj What's very strange and makes no sense - if you watch the larger/longer video, I am showing an example of the blurry and fuzzy screen then opening the app "CapCut." You can clearly see that opening and clicking around that app and off of it affects the fuzzy blurred effect - with it even disappearing completely at a point. I've tried trouble shooting everything - different GPUs, different display port and hdmi cables, and using different ports in both the monitor and GPU, different PC, installing the newest LG drivers, uninstalling then reinstalling CapCut, LG OnScreen Control software, and sadly even fresh-reinstalling windows thinking it may be a software issue with CapCut or something else. Nothing worked! I missed the 1-year manufacturer's warranty by 8 days. Contacted some LG-referred local service centers but, have to wait until this week. Zero damage was done, no physical, no water or cleaners. Nothing makes sense, especially with that CapCut app essentially making the effect disappear and change and return.

Anyone have an idea of what malware it was? Could have been "AgentTesla." I wish LTT shared the file hash or even the file for security researchers. @LinusTech John Hammond commented on your YT video, he'd like a copy of the file for research. It'd be a cool collab for you two.

EDIT - Disregard, I guess they are in the chassis box. Am I wrong to think I have gotten mobo/chassis screws before in the mobo packaging? Hmm...

Summary COMSEC, a computer security group in Switzerland based out of the university ETH Zurich has discovered and released a new iteration of rowhammer exploits on DDR4 DRAM, dubbed Blacksmith. (1) Originally discovered in 2014 by Google security research team Project Zero (2), also releasing a newer variant earlier this year (3), rowhammer attacks take advantage "of an unintended and undesirable side effect in dynamic random-access memory (DRAM) in which memory cells interact electrically between themselves by leaking their charges, possibly changing the contents of nearby memory rows that were not addressed in the original memory access. This circumvention of the isolation between DRAM memory cells results from the high cell density in modern DRAM, and can be triggered by specially crafted memory access patterns that rapidly activate the same memory rows numerous times." (4) Target Row Refresh (TRR) was implemented by DRAM manufacturers to mitigate these flaws, however Blacksmith is the latest discovery in rowhammer exploits proving that TRR protection is insufficient - resulting in potential escalation in kernel privileges. COMSEC confirmed "that DRAM devices acquired in July 2020 with DRAM chips from all three major DRAM vendors (Samsung, SK Hynix, Micron) are affected by this vulnerability [Blackmith]." (5) "There might be a light at the end of the tunnel, what with TRR being replaced by a new line of defense called "refresh management" in DDR5 DRAM modules, a mechanism that "keeps track of activations in a bank and issues selective refreshes to highly activated rows once a threshold has been reached." (1) CVE-2021-42114 Detail (6) COMSEC blog; Blacksmith Methodology (7) My Thoughts I would love to see LTT try to replicate these results. The exploit is available on Github. Sources (1) https://thehackernews.com/2021/11/new-blacksmith-exploit-bypasses-current.html (2) https://googleprojectzero.blogspot.com/search?q=rowhammer (3) https://thehackernews.com/2021/05/google-researchers-discover-new-variant.html (4) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Row_hammer (5) https://vulners.com/cve/CVE-2021-42114 (6) https://nvd.nist.gov/vuln/detail/CVE-2021-42114 (7) https://comsec.ethz.ch/research/dram/blacksmith/

TLDR; skip to #3 in bold at bottom Set up Dante socks5 proxy on my server (Ubuntu 20.04.3) with minimal conifg - it works for the likes of IRC chat - my main purpose of setting it up. I used THIS TUTORIAL LINK for a setup & config guide. Config allows connection from my sole IP address, and requires user & pass. It works, I am able to mask my IP & hostname via my IRC client. Not as much luck in Windows. First of all - I have no real need for it in windows. My main purpose for it was to mask my IP on IRC so I don't get hacked. I understand it has no real use in encrypting data like a VPN for windows, not what I'm here to be told. I figured since I have it & I'm paying for the server, I may as well use it for windows. 1) I simply want to bounce my IP through my proxy to connect to the web. I thought it would be as simple as opening windows Settings>Network & Internet>Proxy -- then entering my server IP address & port number. Interestingly enough - before the proxy was configured to accept a connection with a user/pass - I could not even load a website by doing ^^. I ended up having to config proxy script to auth connection with user/pass only, for my use in IRC. In Windows, I read that I needed to load "Credentials Manager" go to > Windows Credentials > Add - which I did - assuming this would suffice for the proxy setup in the Network & Internet Settings. No luck, still - same error trying to load a website. ERROR IN GOOGLE: ERR_SOCKS_CONNECTION_FAILED 2) I continue to read up on the issue, and how windows absolutely sucks for using proxies. I read to run> inetcpl.cpl (the old school-looking "Internet Properties" box) and go to Connections>LAN settings>Proxy Server [check box] Use a proxy server for your LAN >Advanced [enter] IP & port in *ONLY "Socks:" line, not in HTTP, FTP, Secure. SAME ERROR IN GOOGLE: ERR_SOCKS_CONNECTION_FAILED 3) I continue to read and I find that to connect to a proxy (that I set up on an Ubuntu server) thru Windows - I should go to Control Panel > Network & Internet > click "Change adapter settings" > Network Connections >right click on my wifi adapter > properties > network >Internet Protocol version 4 (TCIP/IPv4) > properties >select "Use the following IP addresses" & "use the following DNS server addresses" IP Address - got it from my server Subnet mask - 255.255.255.255 - got it from my server running $ route -n Default gateway - 196.254.0.1 - got it from my server running $ route -n Preferred & Alternate DNS Server - got it from my server running $ resolvectl status <click OK> to save WARNING: "Warning - the default gateway is not on the same network segment (subnet) that is defined by the IP address and subnet mask. Do you want to save this configuration?" I don't understand how this error makes sense if that is default gateway the server is giving me? A) PLEASE ADVISE ON #3 B) DO I NEED TO BE DOING ALL THIS CRAZY STUFF JUST TO USE A PROXY IN WINDOWS, OR IS THERE A BETTER WAY? Thanks!

This would be more of a pain to do in a micro ITX because a 112w TDP CPU will produce wayyyyyy more heat than my ~35w TDP 8700T and there is zero room in this setup for better cooling. The whole point here is to handle a slightly more workload, and I'm confident the 6c12t 8700T will solve that. Afterall, the 8700T is much better on bechmarks than the 7500T for desktop & workstation loads - and that's all I'm looking for. I found a IQ3X0IL mobo on ebay for $60, problem solved! Thanks all!

@jaslion how do you figure that the mobo swap wont work? sorry to be annoying but please explain. It fits to spec for the case, screw holes and all - talk to me?

@Levent @HelpfulTechWizard @jaslion anyone?

Oh crap. You've got to be kidding me? I can't believe that I did not even think of this. Is there absolutely no way to make this i7-8700T backwards-compatible to this motherboard? I'd like to make this processor work and not down-grade to the 4c 8t i7-7700T... What's the only solution, upgrading the motherboard from the IQ2X0IH to the IQ3XOIL ? And then what about the RAM and the Intel website specs saying it only supports DDR4-2666, then my DDR4-2133 won't work either and will need upgrading? Now I am trying to figure out what is even worth doing. SHEESH! HELP!

I have a Levono m710q Tiny for my office computer and software they've installed is running the i5-7500T at 100% constantly and my computer is lagging. To solve the issue I bought a used i7-8700T and was under the impression that it would work as an upgrade. Should be a simple plug and play, no? BUT* when the i7-8700T was installed, the PC gave no input signal to the monitors. Ebay seller of i7-8700T swears it worked when he took it out. I don't know what could be the issue, any ideas? https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/97121/intel-core-i5-7500t-processor-6m-cache-up-to-3-30-ghz.html https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/129948/intel-core-i7-8700t-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-00-ghz.html ONE THING I did notice in the above Intel links is that the memory types supported are different. I have SODIMM DDR4-2133 installed I believe, and the i7-8700T specs says that it ONLY supports DDR4-2666 - COULD THIS BE THE ISSUE? Thanks!

Anyone have the slightest clue on when RTX3080's will be available to purchase via retail? Do we keep having to play this cat and mouse game with retailers vs scalpers? It's such a shame that if I want one, I have to pay double the price on ebay.

Nice choice with the TP Link family, first of all. I have the AC1900. I think if you're spending this kind of money, spend the few extra dollars and just get what is clearly the best out of the few you chose. AX50.

I agree, have your backup partition and leave the rest. What are you trying to accomplish by doing this @srrrx ?

@BlueChinchillaEatingDorito So, the one throwing error code 43 is a Linksys WUSB6300. I downloaded the setup software as well as the latest driver from HERE. Surprisingly, it still did not work. Also, trying to update the driver from "device manager" - it did not even recognize the new driver. What is most surprising is that this dongle was working perfectly fine up until a few days ago. I do not understand what the issue is. I would love to try to understand the issue, if you have any ideas? So, the item throwing error code 28 is a Netgear AC600. I downloaded the setup software from HERE. It is now working! What I don't understand is that the AC600 is brand new, shouldn't it be plug'n'play? Regardless, I got the setup software from the manufacturer's website and it is now working. I just do not understand why I am having these issues? More so, why out of the blue did the WUSB6300 begin to have these issues and stop working?