Paul Rudd

Wouldn't this be the better deal provided someone has something else they plan to buy from Newegg? Comes to the same $37 after using the $10 MIR and you get a Gen 4 drive with double the read/write, double the random read and nearly 3x the random write. Every other spec is pretty much the same. Random write is pretty important too, we're talking faster OS/software/application loading times and quicker programs while in use. So theoretically you're nearly tripling the speed of all these for the same $37.

Well I just put in about an hour and a half and it's a pretty engaging game when you give it just a little bit of time. It plays sort of like a linear Fallout 3 game without being much of an open world(so far). The loot is quite lacking though but there's at least looting bodies and notes as you progress. Hit detection doesn't feel super satisfying so I'm hoping for it to pick up as enemies vary. Shooting rats for example feels somewhat good but shooting the games first creature enemies didn't exactly feel much more than decent. Maybe this has to do with the guns and their sights and nozzles, I do not know yet. Fiddling around with the graphic settings, there's definitely major fps killing settings, starting with antialiasing. Luckily I game at 1440p so I have chosen to turn AA completely off and there's not a major hit to visuals in terms of what it does for the frame rate IMO. The subtle sacrifice to visuals is easily worth playing without AA. There's a 0.5x setting that skyrockets your frame rate but I read about why that is and it's because it renders the game at half the resolution(720p) and then it upscales to 1440p. So obviously I've chosen to not play the game that way and am sticking with no AA. Even though it does look good using 0.5x AA IMO. Reminds me of how well upscaling looks on my Xbox One S on my 4K TV, in the games that support upscaling of course. Tesselation hits performance but in a minor/moderate way. So I choose Very High for it. However, I will be fiddling around with this setting more for sure as the moderate hit to performance and visuals is worth analyzing. The game doesn't allow you to tweak the rest of the individual graphic settings unfortunately and has just one more setting to change that's basically a preset of all graphic settings. I have chosen High but changing each interval definitely changes performance significantly. The bright side of all this is that since this game looks pretty dated/darkish/faded to begin with, playing the game on Low is actually great because it skyrockets the frame rate(in certain areas) while not making visuals look like crap. You can notice the difference in shadows though but each interval looks pretty bad in terms of shadows anyway so this is another reason the Low setting actually is beneficial. If you can ignore what it does to shadows then I think a lot of people will like using the Low setting, especially if they have 160-240 Hz 1440p monitors. Mine is just 144 Hz at 1440p so that's why I'm sticking to the High setting here. I'm able to hover around 125-145 fps with my 1070 using the High setting. Motion Blur makes no difference to performance but I play with it on Low regardless(it won't let you turn it off). As for PhysX, this seems to do nothing to performance or visuals but I could definitely be wrong here as different areas of the game change frame rate no matter what you do to graphic settings in general. And for those interested, here's a few pics of using the benchmark utility which takes 172 seconds to complete each run. Make sure to notice that the frame rate intervals on each picture graph is different in each picture. Ultra shows fps hitting around 40 to 60. Low shows fps hitting around 90 to over 200+. Ultra with no AA shows fps hitting around 60 to 110. (single fps killing setting in the game and why I turn it OFF) Ultra(Motion Blur on Low)... Low(Motion Blur on Low)... Ultra but no AA(Motion Blur on Low)...

A quick Google search brought up this Steam discussion created a couple days ago. After reading through it all this is the best answer... "Last light complete is the 2013 game version, with all dlcs and the LL's early engine version. Seems to work on older windows versions. Has more achievements than redux. Redux is based on the new LL engine, integrating all the DLCs that were previously distributed separately. Fewer achievements, some QOL like the watch. Some lighting changes so really action and cutscenes in dark areas are a bit brighter." I own both versions myself but I'm installing this complete version literally as I'm typing this. I read it has an in-game benchmark so I'm gonna look to balance out performance with visual fidelity by fiddling around with individual graphic settings and use the PCGamingWiki page to see if I can find some QoL improvements as well. Changing FOV stood out immediately after skimming through it. Will post them here if I find a dramatic change with individual settings.

I have time but with a thousands of games library it's tough to get around to one random game. So I'm gonna do it anyway and give the game a go even if it's for just 15 minutes. I'll be sure to give some insight on my experience with it in this thread.

Fiendish Freddy's Big Top o' Fun is FREE right now on GOG. Free to keep when you get it before May 22 @ 9:00am. Originally released in September of 1989, its black humor was very dark and the violence was surprisingly graphic for a title of this period. The lack of any kind of media panic in retrospect might seem surprising, although such public outrage only became common from about 1992 onwards, following the releases of Wolfenstein 3D and Mortal Kombat, which contained actual blood and gore.

To celebrate its 10th Anniversary... Metro Last Light Complete Edition is FREE right now on Steam. 94% Very Positive reviews. Free to keep when you get it before May 25 @ 1:00pm. Metro Last Light first released 10 years ago on May 14th, 2013.

So that's how I have it on both Ubisoft and Epic. Interesting, so it's still active. Same thing happened with the original Division. It remained active so long, I had to pick it up. Excellent, glad to hear this. I'm guessing there's a fix for your specific crashes. Are you using Windows 10 or 11? Are you using Direct X 10 or 11? And what is your specific hardware? Your profile says an i7-7820X 64 GB of DDR4 2400 RAM, an RTX 2070 Super, Windows 10 Pro and 1080p monitors. Is that what you're still using? Oh and since I've put the small amount of time that I have put into the Division 2 on the Epic Games version, does that mean I can still buy the expansion from GMG(it's the Ubisoft version) and apply it to my Epic Games version? Well that's just it, I sort of want to put time into the game simply because I haven't and I did really enjoy the original Division. It's the planning part that I'm hoping some of you can influence me to do. This is good, yes, yes, I like to hear this. Sounds very similar to the original Division. The variety that game provided was excellent. I even like how the DLC changed things up drastically in terms of the environment and even lighting in said environments. For example, I remember there being a DLC that literally changed the game into a Cyberpunk game with neon graffiti everywhere and underground. It was AWESOME and sadly that's around where I left off playing the game. Wow, that's strong words right there. I'm on the brink of playing the game for sure and I feel like I have to snag the expansion while it sits at $3 because looking at its price history that price is not common and will shoot back up for quite a while.

It's just $7.74(new historical low) at GMG... The Division 2 WoNY Edition. Base game is just $3.87... The Division 2. And for those that already own the base game, the expansion is $3.87 also... The Division 2 WoNY Expansion. Plus you get another 3% off by claiming the free Birthday XP Pack. Bringing the discount to 90% off vs 87%. I own the base game, is the expansion worth the $2.99? I picked up the base game for $2.99 3 years ago, played it for like a half hour and haven't touched it since. But I did invest hundreds of hours into the first Division game and some of its DLC ages ago.

I wonder how that single 16GB stick affects things. This is the benefit of this post, which is much appreciated to all those people. Correct. $13 more expensive for new builders though. You'd be surprised what an i3 12100/13100 does for an RX 6950 XT at 1440p. This is where a big chunk of change comes from to allow new builders to actually own an RX 6950 XT and a DDR5 motherboard/RAM. It allows one to eventually sell the i3 and buy an i5/i7 if there's specific games or content creation that requires/desires the upgrade.

IKR. I got the Mega Man LC and STRIDER a few years ago in a similar bundle, played them for about an hour each and haven't played them again since. I'm gonna do my best to play Lost Planet 3 and Bionic Commando Rearmed. LP3 is 18GB and installing right now. It's a no-brainer to grab them at this price though just so I'll own them forever. I thoroughly love playing Mega Man so hopefully I can invest some more time into it.

Here is the link to this Capcom Heroic Collection Humble Bundle. It's been quite a while since a $1 Humble bundle has arrived, that's for sure. Retail prices: $40 + $15 + $10 + $15 = $80. Common sale prices: $8 + $6 + $2 + $4.50 = $20.50 (actual savings) For just $0.25 each, you receive the following... Lost Planet 3 Complete - Includes ALL DLC. The base game has 63% Mixed reviews. Mega Man Legacy Collection - 86% Very Positive reviews. Bionic Commando Rearmed - 71% Mostly Positive reviews. STRIDER 85% Very Positive reviews.

What is the bandwidth difference between a 2x8GB kit of DDR5 6000 vs a 2x16GB kit of DDR5 6000 and what is this difference in overall 1440p gaming performance? I'd say $50 is the minimum when targeting CL 16. So $30 difference between a $50 kit and the $80 kit. Got it. It's $13... 5800X3D CPU/motherboard/cooler/RAM combo vs 13500 CPU/motherboard/cooler/RAM combo. You best throw a beefy cooler on that 5800X3D if you want it to be cool. Yes the thermals are not a huge difference but you're gonna want that difference for the 5800X3D IMO. The PA 120 should hit back at $40 in no time as well. I do like to see that you chose the exact same boards I did. You know your VRM setups.

Why should 8GB DIMM's be avoided? You can always pay $8 more for a 2x16GB kit of DDR5 6000 at just $80.

It's less than 9% at 1440p. I don't know why on earth I'd game at 1080p with such a high tier GPU. If building with an option though, the i5 13500 is the no-brain choice. It's just $72 right now for DDR5 6000 RAM.

You mentioned a 3060 to be realistic but what do you think about this picture involving a 3090 Ti... Since the 14 core 4.8 GHz i5 13500 is on par with the i5 12600K as you mentioned, isn't the performance difference here just 5% with a 3090 Ti? And this is at 1080p. I'm not sure why I'd be gaming at 1080p with a 3090 Ti but aside from added heat, what other benefit do you have for the extra cost of the 5800X3D here?

Do you have a link to the source of that picture of the 12 game average you posted?

Isn't the less heat 14 core 4.8 GHz i5 13500 just $238? And who games in 1080p with a 4090?

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In terms of time, this would be correct for certain types of people. The bright side is that I have plenty of time. That's correct. Good thing I rarely have to boot up my PC. Around 1-5% of my yearly life. Usually when the power goes out or when I update Windows around once every few months or so. The biggest deal for me I've already mentioned... "I think my biggest speed bump making the transfer is just how much I enjoy what I already have. It's like I can't give it up just for two things... A less 10 second boot time after shutdowns/restarts and a quicker/snappier OS." Meaning, I can't give up my current experience because it's actually flawless in terms of my own personal desires. I can't give that up just for a less than 10 second boot time after shutdowns/restarts that I've already explained to occur just 1-5% of the year. So the real want, not need, I have is the quicker/snappier OS. It's simply not worth giving up what I already have.

I own multiple builds my friend. I own SSD's. Takes less than 10 seconds to boot up from sleep every night. If I put an SSD in my personal build, I'd make sure it lasts.

Possible? Sure. Reality? Nope. Strange, been using mine as a boot drive since December of 2016 without issues. 32 GB's, and yes, rarely reboot. Turning on the PC from sleep takes less than 10 seconds. Seen that video 10 years ago. I still love my HDD's and I don't know what I'd do without them.

Strange, been using mine as a boot drive since December of 2016 without issues.

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Two things I don't want to do. However, they don't sound overwhelming. But when I really think about it, I just wish my current Windows experience had some type of flaw in it. Some type of issue. There's literally none. There's the old saying, if it isn't broke, don't try to fix it. Nothing about my Windows is broke. Everything does exactly what I wish for it to do. There's so much. This is the overwhelming part. I'd have to uninstall all my launchers and then reinstall them. My video editing software in particular I for the most part, do NOT want to uninstall and reinstall. Because of the things I've read about newer versions that I have chosen to not update to. My current version, runs, like I said, without flaws. Without issues. I think my biggest speed bump making the transfer is just how much I enjoy what I already have. It's like I can't give it up just for two things... A less 10 second boot time after shutdowns/restarts and a quicker/snappier OS.

That's a good question. Never really thought of that actually, wouldn't there be some additional things I'd have to do with that process? Seems they'd have less confliction with how things function, which is good. Just need to know what they are. I mean, there's always something. For one, how would the transfer of my current Windows key work while installing Windows to the SSD while it still being on the HDD?