SRRAE

I'll give these things a try.

If I dont use my mouse for 2-3 mins and then use it, for the first couple of seconds the movement is too high. I then get the little notification popup saying DPI set to 1600 and its back to how I set it.  It is like the software turns off or resets when I dont use my mouse for a short period and the takes a moment to reactivate when I start moving the mouse.

Is there a way of stopping this?

Also is there a way stopping the notification about the DPI from appearing?  Each one appears for about 3 seconds, so if I change the profile down 3 levels I get 3 seconds of notification, on after the other saying the DPI has been changed.

 

1 minute ago, Lurking said:

Why ask us if YOU can live without phone for another month? I personally couldn't live without phone for a month and I would buy what is the best deal today. But we are not you.

 

Either phone will be miles better than your old one. Also can look for refurbished ones with warranty. All depends on the specific price.  If the S23 is very better, it will cost more on the street. If it is a slight upgrade to the S22, it will cost less. So value per money will be similar.

I have spare phones which I can drop my sim in for the time being.  The battery may not last and there is a bit of screen burn but will do me for a month or two.  Thats why I kept hold of it.

13 minutes ago, PrometheusAwoken said:

In my opinion, phones these days are rarely worth upgrading from one generation to the next, so if you did decide to get the S22 Ultra I don't think you'll be kicking yourself when the S23 comes out. 

 

I would, however, consider a couple things:

1. The arrival of the S23 will probably mean the 22 goes on an even greater discount.
2. Whether you really need an "Ultra" phone. Unless you need the S pen, you would probably be fine with a regular S22 or even an S21 FE. I've had an S20 FE for a few years now and there hasn't been a point where I'm wishing I got anything more expensive.

I dont need an Ultra, the Plus is probably the more ideal one for me.  At the moment the Plus is sold out nearly everywhere and the Ultra was only about £100 more expensive.

I think I will hold out for when the 23 launches.

To be short, my Samsung S10e has suddenly decided that I doesn't like SIM cards.  I've tried a few known working cards; it detects a SIM card in but just wont read it.

I can get a Samsung S22 Ultra for just under £1000.  It's discounted and I have a "birthday" 15% off code from Samsung. Or do you think I should just hang on a couple of months for the Samsung S23?

With the cost of electricity rising so high, and will get a lot worse, I have been looking at how much I use each electrical device and how much it uses.  I got energy monitoring plugs to find out how much things are using to make a few adjustments.

(for the people who dont know, in the UK last year the cost of a kWh was about 17p (19c)  and in April 2023 some estimate it could cost 90p ($1) a kWh)

One thing that uses a lot is my PC but I dont know if its idling and light usage power usage is high as I have nothing else to compare it to.

My PC uses about between 170-220w when idling/browsing and I dont know if that is high or not.  My spec is blow

Spec

Motherboard: ASUS x570 Wifi II

CPU: Ryzen 5600x

GPU: AMD 6800XT

RAM: 32GB Corsair 3600 RGB RAM 

Storage: 2Tb Corsair M600 nvme, 500Gb WD Black nvme, 500GB Samsung 980 SSD

PSU: Corsair RM750i

Cooling: Kraken Z63 AIO, 6 Corsair LL fans.

AMD software report the CPU is using about 10W at idle and the GPU 10-15W at idle. I have turned off all the fans (except the AIO pump and fans) and turned off all the RGB. I have even unplugged all the peripherals excluding the mouse so I could navigate the software which measures power usage and it still draws 180+W

Any suggestions what could be causing this large draw?  There does seem to be a discrepancy between what software is reporting being used and what is actually being used.

19 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

This also...

 

https://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/177748/changing-xbox-settings-from-adult-to-child-or-teen

this is perfect thank you

Hello,

There is a situation where my sister needs to transfer some assets from an adult account to a child account.

My nephew  started playing xbox on his dad's account.  My nephew was only little and would play play minecraft and such.  Although there is a child account setup, it was never used as the games were bought and installed under his dad's account.

It has now got to the point were we need the child to use his own child account, however there are lot of assets, games and add-ons which he has bought but on the adult account which he would like transferring.

I dont think they are too bothered about the adult account losing anything.  I think they would be happy with the account just being swapped to a child account, or the account type changed to a child account.

Does anyone know if this is possible and if so how to go about it?  My brother in law has tried but didn't get anywhere.

After a reboot, its gone back to flickering / resetting a portion of leds on 2 of the fans again.

I have 6 Corsair LL fans and 4 internal LED strips.
The 6 fans are plugged in to an RGB hub, which is being controlled by an RGB commander Pro.
The 4 strips are plugged directly in to the RGB Commander Pro.
 

In the past couple of weeks, I have had issues with 2 of the fans.  At random times a number of LEDs will flicker off, or would default to the hardware profile and then go back to normal.
The strange thing is it would affect the same LED locations on 2 fans at the same time.

I replaced the RGB hub as I had an unused one but it did exactly the same thing. If I disconnected any fan from the RGB hub, it would fix the issue.

The sata cable which is powers the RGB hub also power 2 SATA SSD.  I removed the power from one of the SSD and the lights have been working.

My question is, have I reached the power limit for that rail having so many LED and 2 SSDs on there?

10 hours ago, freeagent said:

Sweet man! 

 

How do you like that board? I've been thinking about buying it because I don't want to spend 608 delivered for a Dark Hero

 

Trying to find a review is like pulling teeth.

The only review I have round was Russian.  I think it's more of a large revision change to the current x570 Gaming-E than a new board, so hasn't got much attention.

Other than the CPU boosting all the time and causing large spikes in temperature for no reason, it seems good.  I only have a 5600X so dont have a CPU which can really push the board, but it has ran at 4.8Ghz for short bursts and seems happy to run 4.7 nearly all the time without issue.

I know I'm digging this up from the doldrums but I got a response from Asus and thought I'd let you know, if anyone's interested.

They said they replicated same issue on the motherboard and will work towards a fix, probably in the form of a BIOS update.  As Chinese new year is close, it may be a few weeks.

Fingers crossed my CPU and water pump wont be going crazy when doing something simple like, open a browser.

2 minutes ago, OhioYJ said:

Do you have a bunch of profiles setup? Why not just set it to use onboard memory only, and not worry about GHub?

No, I've recently reinstalled  so have no profiles.  I think I may have used onboard profiles before.  I'll give that a go

When I don't use the mouse for about 5 mins the DPI seems to default to a much higher rate and after a couple of seconds it defaults back to what I have set it to, 1600 for desktop use.

For example watching a YouTube video for a few mins, I then use the mouse only to find the sensitivity is very high causing me to move the pointer all over the place and after about 2 seconds, I get the G Hub popup saying the DPI has been set to 1600.

It didn't used to be like this, but I don't know if it is a version of the G Hub software which is causing this or if its a setting I've inadvertently set.  Its very annoying but cant find whats caused it.

1 hour ago, aDoomGuy said:

@SRRAEAM4 have no Cool'n'Quiet. As far as I know it was discontinued. 

 

Well the way Ryzen works is that it will boost whenever it gets under load. Monitoring software will also put it under load so there is also that. Did you try monitoring with Ryzen Master?

I have got Ryzen Master installed and when it stays open long enough to get a reading that does imply the CPU is clocking down.  But every other software, Windows, ASUS apps, NZXT, CPUID all read the same high clock speed, and the random jump of CPU temp into the mid 50C suggests it is a higher clock speed.

Unless, the temp isn't reading correctly either.

47 minutes ago, aDoomGuy said:

Maybe you should upgrade to a B450 then? 

I used to have Asus motherboards most of the time, but last time I remember last time I changed I wanted something different.  Perhaps its stuff like this that was the reason behind the change

28 minutes ago, YoungBlade said:

Is your Windows power plan set to Balanced?

Yes it is. Setting it to power saver makes the CPU drop to 1.7Ghz.  At one point it stopped doing that.  I ended up uninstalling all of ASUS software from the computer to get power saver to work

11 minutes ago, YoungBlade said:

AM4 definitely has it, although from what I can find, most mobo makers rolled it into C States and only Gigabyte still calls it that.

 

The feature is mentioned in official Ryzen documentation from AMD, so it certainly is on AM4. https://download.amd.com/documents/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-and-AMD-Ryzen-Master-Overclocking-Users-Guide.pdf

After a little searching it seems AMD prefer the term PSS for "Cool'n'Quiet".  I found that and it is enabled. I've tried it disabled and it made no different.  Its back to enabled now.

Ive found a few threads from different sources with similar issues and it is nearly always ASUS users saying its not working. 

Just now, YoungBlade said:

Have you made sure that the Cool'n'Quiet feature is enabled in BIOS? (It's the AMD equivalent to SpeedStep)

I'm struggling to find what that is called and where it would be on this Asus Bios.

I've gone through every BIOS option looking for it and I cant see anything which implies its that setting.

I had to search for ASUS name for Smart Access Memory

38 minutes ago, aDoomGuy said:

Get the ones from Asus. They contain things that are specific to your motherboard most likely.

I've tried that too.  The ones listed from Asus site is a higher version than the one from AMD.
The ones on AMDs site is 3.10.08 and via Asus is 3.10.22.  Both behave the same

49 minutes ago, aDoomGuy said:

Did you remove the old chipset drivers and install new ones? Download the ones from Asus website for your X570-E and use the Ryzen Balanced power plan.

Formatted drive and installed windows from fresh.  Straight away I noticed the issue.

I have downloaded the Chipset drivers from AMD's site and still the same issue.  There is no Ryzen Balanced power plan anymore.  Apparently it was used as a temporary fix to a windows issue.

I was using my Ryzen 5600X on my MSI X470 motherboard without issue, everything ran as expected regarding power plan.  On balanced power plan it would downclock to about 2Ghz when idle, moderate use clock to about 3.6Ghz and under heavier use it would boost to about 4.2 to 4.6Ghz

A couple of days ago I change the motherboard to a ASUS X570-E Gaming WIFI II and ever since the CPU hasn't correctly downclocked and is in fact boosting ALL the time.
On Windows desktop with nothing open the CPU is clocked at anything between 4 - 4.6Ghz.  Sat here now a typing this and the clock speed is staying above 4.4Ghz most of the time.  Obviously this is causing additional heat with idle temps usually being around the 40C and occasionally for no apparent reason, the temperature will shoot to high 50s.

In the Bios I have turned off all overclocks, and even disabled precision boost, but still the CPU refuses to go below 4Ghz.  I've even gone as far as a complete fresh Windows 10 install.  With standard 

I am in contact with Asus support who at the moment just seem to be saying Ryzen CPUs run hotter, and ignoring the fact the CPU is in boosting nearly 100% of the time.  I've had a few computer lockups..

Any ideas what could be causing this?

1 minute ago, RAS_3885 said:

Ryzen Master or HWinfo64 (core effective clock reading) seem to be correct in my experience. Granted, I still think HWinfo64 is a bit off since it will regularly show cores/threads at 5-50 MHz when idle which isn't right either. It's good enough to show idle vs. not, which when I'm looking is typically all I care about. Specific idle frequency doesn't really matter to me.

Idle wouldn't usually bother me, its just when I see it idling at 4.6Ghz which is basically its max boost, I start to question whats happening.

I have a thing about the CPU powering down when at idle.  I want to generate less heat, prolong the life of the CPU and save on power.  Plus I had a thing a few years ago where my CPU would be at 100% all the time.

I am getting reports of 2 different idle speeds. Nearly everything, Windows Task Manager, iCue,  motherboard software, etc. are reporting the same speed, that at idle the CPU is anything between the CPU base clock and boosted clock, even when the CPU usage is 1-3%

However Ryzen Master is reporting the CPU speed as low as 1Ghz.

Which one is more likely to be reporting the correct temp? Judging by the temp at idle Im inclined to believe the Ryzen Master is false.

 

2 minutes ago, RONOTHAN## said:

If you care about noise, invest in a NAS to put the drive in another room. You can build one for pretty cheap with a Raspberry Pi.

 

Though what drive in particular are you using, what case are you using, and how do you have the drive mounted?

I have a NAS, a HP  Microserver Gen 8, which is where the photos eventually go, but I'd like to keep a copy local as access to the NAS is quite slow, plus I want to keep 2 copies of the important things.

 The drive is a 2TB Baracuda (Seagate ST2000DM006) which I believe is a 5400RPM

thanks