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Mattata

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System

  • CPU
    Intel 12th Generation Core i7-12700K
  • Motherboard
    MSI MAG Z690 TOMAHAWK WIFI DDR4
  • RAM
    4x8GB G.SKILL Trident Z Royal (Gold) 3200 MHZ
  • GPU
    MSI Geforce RTX 3080 Ti Gaming X Trio 12G
  • Case
    Lian-Li O11 Dynamic Razer Edition
  • Storage
    Too many drives
  • PSU
    Corsair RM1000x
  • Display(s)
    4
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kraken Z73 AIO water cooler
  • Keyboard
    Mountain Everest Max
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Hero
  • Sound
    DROP x Sennheiser PC38X
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

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  1. About a week ago, so I would be within the return window still if I am not mistaken It was I bought it assuming I would be able to do some quick fix or swap on the drive, before I knew that it was gonna be more complicated than I thought. If this isn't actually the original drive (which is where i'm looking for 2 cents from people on), the listing does say that the *original* drive was put back into the console, so I could argue that the listing was not correct, however I don't want to have to be that guy. Anyways, for the price I paid for it I'd rather just keep it and use it as a digital-only console vs sending it back just to buy one new or used and fully working for more than 2x the price. I'm just trying to see if I have any other things to test before I call it quits on troubleshooting it
  2. Hi all, I recently bought a used PS5 off of Ebay. I was aware in the listing that the disk drive had been replaced after the original was not accepting disks, but the listing stated that the original had been put back into the console. I want to reface really quickly that I am aware of the right way to put the disks in (vertical console = label of disk facing left side of console, and horizontal console = disk is put in "upside down" (label of disk facing downwards), and have tried all of the following disks with the console in both orientations, with no difference. I also do not have any external devices plugged into the console (no accessories or external drives), which I had seen unplugging those to be a fix on some older threads i found on a few sites. The disk drive can detect DVDs and Blu-ray movies, but not games (I only have a PS4 game to test with but that should still work, and it's not on the "PS4 only games" list (it's Bloodborne, if you were curious )). The console states that "This disk isn't supported by the PS5" a few seconds after inserting the game. The disk drive will play DVDs just fine, but will error out when launching a Blu-ray disk ("Something went wrong". Error: CE-110558-0). I couldn't find that error code online except for an old Ebay listing, so idk what it refers to. I buy consoles marked as "for parts" since I am well acquainted with electronic repairs, so I thought I would just be able to crack into the disk drive and find some simple fix (It's amazing how often you can fix hardware issues just by reseating cables). Upon opening up the console, fishing out the disk drive (wasn't worried about warranty as the drive had been removed previously), and reseating cables/checking solder points/cleaning lens with high % IPA (not the drinkable one ofc), it still did not want to behave. I also went onto the Playstation support page to look for answers and tried accessing Safe Mode and selecting "Clear Cache and Rebuild Database", with no luck. Same thing for selecting "Reset PS5 (Reinstall System Software)" - no luck there either. That's when I stumbled across the Ifixit part listing for the disk drive (I didn't see it at first when I went on the page for a guide, as it was part of the motherboard listing), where it stated that PS5 motherboards are paired to the disk drives, and games (I assume Blu-rays are part of it as well, assuming this is the issue) will not work when the disk drive is not the original, paired one. So, I am wondering if the drive not being the original is the root cause of my issues, or if there could be something i'm missing here. If the drive not being original is the case, I'm wondering if i should try to contact the seller to get the other, paired drive just to see if i can fix that one up, assuming the seller has it still and was willing to send it to me. . TL;DR: Bought a used PS5, disk drive was replaced by seller but original "was put back in", game disks won't read but DVDs do, and the motherboard and disk drives are supposed to be paired together, but I'm not sure if that is the issue as I am not able to confirm that this is the original disk drive. . Thank you all in advance for your help
  3. worth a shot, although those are more for just cleaning up miscellaneous files and less for fixing a corrupt OS install
  4. looks like this is the command: slmgr.vbs /upk. Put that in cmd and it should open the licence for reuse. I do believe that you can reinstall windows without it wiping your personal files using the windows installer
  5. youll have to deactivate it from your current installation, theres some commands you put in cmd to disconnect it. google will be your friend in this case
  6. If you are on your desktop, hold down the windows key and press the pause/break key. your serial key is on the bottom of the window that opens
  7. If you get a flash drive all setup as if you were doing a fresh Windows installation (using the media creation tool from Microsoft, https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10), if you plug that into your system while it is shut off, and then turn it on, it should run the windows installer, and in there, there is the option to repair any corrupt Windows files. It may not do the trick but it wont hurt to try EDIT: It wouldn't be reinstalling Windows, it would just work with what's on the HDD already and fix anything that doesn't seem right
  8. Hello friends, I recently got my hands on a Dell Precision Tower 7810 server computer. I attempted to turn it on yesterday, but as I plugged it into the wall, it immediately powered on for about a quarter second and turned off (which i'm aware is what happens when a PSU doesn't have an on/off switch on it), but 2 seconds after it turned off, it turned back on again, then turned back off a quarter second later, and kept doing that loop until I unplugged the cable from the wall. I attempted to: *Reseat the RAM *Look for blown capacitors on the motherboard *Reapply thermal paste (even though i'm aware that the system would still boot up for a little bit without a CPU cooler) *Clear the CMOS and NVRAM *Try a different graphics card *Hold down the BIST button on the back of the PSU, and the light stayed solid green. The case fans, CPU fan, and GPU fan all spun Some things to note: *There is only one CPU installed, the other CPU slot is empty and has no power running to the socket, and has no memory in the empty socket's side of the board *If I hold down the BIST button, the computer doesn't POST, although I'm not familiar with BIST so I'm not sure if you can actually POST just by holding the button I honestly have no clue what the issue could be. If anyone has any suggestions on what I could try to make it work, that'd be greatly appreciated :)
  9. @Jurrunio I guess I misunderstood what the thunderbolt header was used for, my bad thank you for the helpful info!
  10. @BobVonBob Yeah, im gonna agree with you on that one, that'd be too much trouble for it to be worth it
  11. @Jurrunio The mobo does indeed have a thunderbolt header, but it doesn't have a 3.2 gen 2 header. (mobo in question is the ASUS Prime z370-a). Weird thing is that it has a3.1 gen 2 Type-A and type-C on the external I/O, so I have no clue how they overlooked adding something like that. I'm gonna assume that that PCIe card is my only option, just wish there was another way just cuz im picky and like having that extra space along the bottom of the case to bask at the system, you know? Anyways I'll have to look into those cards, thank you for the link
  12. Hey y'all, I recently picked up a new case that has a usb type-c port on it, although my motherboard doesn't have a 3.1 gen 2 header on it. I know I could get an adapter for the spare 3.1 gen 1 header on my motherboard, but it's just not as fun not having the full potential power of the type-c port. So the question is, is there any sort of cable or pci card that can adapt a thunderbolt header to a usb 3.1 gen 2 header? Thanks in advance :)
  13. Nevermind, I didn't know that SSDs came unformatted. For those who have the same question and find this thread (unless it gets deleted), follow this link: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12438/windows-10-storage-spaces?ranMID=24542&ranEAID=kXQk6*ivFEQ&ranSiteID=kXQk6.ivFEQ-7PSn5Rcw5Fbm5PqhmxfdsA&epi=kXQk6.ivFEQ-7PSn5Rcw5Fbm5PqhmxfdsA&irgwc=1&OCID=AID2000142_aff_7593_1243925&tduid=(ir__aaairrnqdkkfrnukkk0sohzn0m2xgxwcblwbo92o00)(7593)(1243925)(kXQk6.ivFEQ-7PSn5Rcw5Fbm5PqhmxfdsA)()&irclickid=_aaairrnqdkkfrnukkk0sohzn0m2xgxwcblwbo92o00 and if the link doesn't exist in the future, type "Storage Spaces" in your PC's taskbar and format it through there.
  14. Hello, I recently purchased an Intel 660p nvme m.2 drive for my computer. I plugged it in and it is being recognized by my bios but not by my OS (Windows 10). I'm not sure if its an issue, but im running an HDD with an Optane m.2 in RAID, so it might be making incompatibilities. any tips is appreciated btw my motherboard is the Asus Z370-A
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