Held_Games

Ohh sorry I might have misread some of the comments then...

I configured the card with one hdd (2 TB) and made it an array with one drive in it. Intends/intended to use the card as more Sata data, as I ran out of those on mymotherboard. I was in the options/bios of the raid card, there I deleted all arrays and only made one. Thx for the answers

So there is no way to change it? Is there then anyway to have it "Start up" after the pc? ((Is there any way I can get this to work with my main desktop(Without just leaving it on)))?

Hello I recently ran out of SATA Data ports on my Motherboard. Therefor I got an old raid card installed in a free PCIe x16 slot. However with the card in, it takes about 10 minutes for windows to start. Start sequence: - Raid card starts - Scanning for device at port 0 (about 1-5 min) - Scanning for device at port 1 (about 1-5 min) - Scanning for device at port 2 (about 1-5 min) - Scanning for device at port 3 (about 1-5 min) - Motherboard boot screen (Option to go into bios here) - Windows 10 startup I would like to to not take 10 minutes to boot into windows. The raid card is in the 2nd x16 slot (First one reserved for my GPU) Raid card controller: Adaptec SATA Serial ATA II Raid 1430SA (Running V6.0.0) CPU: I7-6700K Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 (Bios v. 1.H0) GPU: GTX 960 Power: 550W Generic PSU

Due to the "Waiting or holding down the power button" it seems to be a PSU problem (I looks like the capacitors has to discharge, before a powerup). Can you try with another PSU?

You might want to say away from overclocking though. (CPU and GPU) Due to the increase in power consumption, but else you are fine.

Sorry for the late reply. We have tried a lot of stuff and waited for delivery. What ended up working was a motherboard swap. Thanks for the suggestion though

My friend has a pc that only starts about every 5 minutes So if he shut it down, he has to wait 5 minutes to start it again. Well if he starts it before the 5 minut mark, the pc boots like normal but there is nothing showing up on screen. Stuff I have tried: It happens both with and without installed GPU New CPU New motherboard New Ram New PSU Spec: I5-9700K Asus TUF B350M-PLUS GAMING 4X8GB DDR4 ram @2400Mhz Some generic PSU (550W) 1 HDD generic GTX 1060 (Without external power pins) (Yes he knows that it isn't the most optimal setup, but that's not the point of this post)

Hello, I got a PSU that blows the housefuse(10A 230V/50Hz(I live in Denmark)). There is no warrenty on it, so I'll like to see if I can fix it. PSU = Cooler master G650M Results: - PSU plugged in but switched off = No blowen fuse - PSU switched on (and plugged in)= Fuse blows instantly (Not connected to a pc, and psu is NOT "shorted" (papirclip test)) So no load - Can't test with load I can measure 1K ohms between L1 (phase I think it would be called in english) and N (neutral). I would think that this should, atleast be 1M ohms. I can also measure ~100 ohms between +12V and GND ~100 ohms between +5V and GND ~100 ohms between +3,3V and GND However all these readings are the moment the multimeter touches the metal. If I hold them for longere the ohms keeps on going up. Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/TzKlbmX I know that information is scarce so if you need more info just let me know. FYI I think it's fun to play around with electronics. I don't NEED to get it working but would like to.

Try to follow this guide and see if something works for you. https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/3166553/error-0x8007232b-or-0x8007007b-occurs-when-you-try-to-activate-windows

You might want to look into the ram. Not that it's going to give you a better experience, but it seems a bit much for windows to reserve 1 GB for hardware. I had a problem like this too. Currently I'm at 300MB. Now again, it isn't going to make your pc faster, but incase you want to continue using it, you might want to look into it.

The first thing I did when I realize. And no it didn't change the outcome... I'll try the crash free when ever I get time. Do you by any change know how I can mesure the board. (With a multimeter). (I know how to solder, so if I can find the error I might be able to correct it) Normally i wouldn't do this, but it's worth a shot. What is the best way to inspect the board?

Thanks for the feedback. I'll try to use the Asus crashfree bios. However new insight has lead me to believe that it indeed is board related. If you look at the sataports there's one missing. I believe that even more that this has been damaged.

No i only have the monitor plugged in. I just tried clearing the CMOS again, still didn't work. My bad, the motherboard is named H81M-A, I just read the 8 as a B. Yes I'm sure I did it the right way. I even did it again, same result. Do you know how to flash the bios, with me being unable to get to it? All the videos/tutorials that I can find, explains how to do it with access to the bios.

Should you by any change know ANYTHING that might be able to fix it?

Turns out one of my friends uses DDR3 ram. Just tried using another ram stick, same result

Yea, the only problem is that I currently dosn't have any other DDR3 ram. I'll see if some of my friends have a stick I can borrow, however i doubt this. (I believe they have DDR4, but I'll try it)

Thanks for your responce YoFavRussian I just tried the 3.pin CLRTC (Changed the position) -> no boot (as stated in the manuel) -> Moved it back -> Same problem. I have not been able to reach the splash screen. When I turn the PC on, I wait about 3-5 secounds then I get the constant white underscore. If you thing boot device as a HDD with win10 installed then no. I have had a HDD in it, but I believe it's empty.

Hello I recently got this motherboard+cpu from a friend, he said that it worked before, however he had it laying around for quite a while. When ever I try to boot, I just get 1 constant white underscore. With a speaker connected I get 1 short beep (No repeats). According to the internet, this means having plugged in a VGA cable but no keyboard, if i have a keyboard plugged in I get the same result. My mouse does not get power either(Doesn't light up) Things I have tried and didn't work: 4 different PSU's Different monitor Different displayoutputs (there is both HDMI, DVI and VGA) Tried all same result. (On different monitors) Different GPU's (2 gpu's and the IGPU) Tried with and without HDD Tried take one ramstick out. Also tried switching them. (Also tried a totally different ram stick (still DDR3)) (Thanks for the advice YoFavRussian) Booting with and without mouse/keyboard No ram (No output, at all, not even an underscore) Taking out the battery Tried to use "Clear RTC RAM (3-pin CLRTC)" jumper (Thanks for the advice YoFavRussian) I have a too many pictures, so I've uploaded them to Imgur. Link here: https://imgur.com/a/dFv4ose Sorry that some of the pictures are a bit blurry. If it's too bad let me know Specs: CPU: Intel I7-4770K @ 3,5GHz Motherboard: H81M-A Ram: Unknown however they fit, I believe they are DDR3 PSU: Tried different ones (The higest was 550W) HDD: Nothing on it (tried with and without) GPU: AMD something, a Nvidia something and the IGPU (Testet separately) (Sorry for "something" but I don't know it) As of my knowledge there has been no overclocking I hope I explained this well enough, if there was something you didn't understand then just write, then I'll try to clarify

Umm I'm missing the "playback device" ??? Do you have any idea how to get it? I just updated my drivers from asus' own website support for my motherboard, yet still i didn't get the option to separate my audio? EDIT: I don't know if it helps, but my front audio IO is connected via. AAFP And here is alle the sound features according to Asus: Realtek® ALC887 8-Channel High Definition Audio CODEC *1- Supports : Jack-detection, Front Panel Jack-retaskingAudio Feature :- LED-illuminated design - Brighten up your build with the gorgeous illuminated audio trace path.- Audio Shielding: Ensures precision analog/digital separation and greatly reduced multi-lateral interference- Dedicated audio PCB layers: Separate layers for left and right channels to guard the quality of the sensitive audio signals- Premium Japanese-made audio capacitors: Provide warm, natural and immersive sound with exceptional clarity and fidelity *1: Use a chassis with HD audio module in the front panel to support an 8-channel audio output.

Thanks Jerped My motherboard name is "ASUS LGA1151 B150M - A"

Thank you for the answer Stalk Unfortunately I have tried this, and did it again just to be sure. But my headphones and speakers are still the same device. However i did see that yours Realtek audio manager and mine dosnt look the same? Do you know why? I know that i updated mine 2 days ago to find out if that was the problem?

Hello So what i want to do is separate my headphone audio from my speaker audio. I have an audio input in the back of my pc where my subwoofer and speakers a plugged into. In the front I have my headphones. But in windows 10 sound options they are all the same device "speaker" but i would like my headphones to have enabled Windows Sonic for headphones, but I dont want it on my speakers, as my sub can only be activate if i have a 5.1 speaker setup. But Windows Sonic for headphones disables this. I have attached a file so you can see what i mean, hopefully. It is in Danish but i made some translations in red for you guys