badreg

In a dark room, yes, but normally no. However, this is also true for my IPS panel, which I use for color critical work. IPS glows, but it's not something that should affect your experience in a well-lit environment. Maybe you just have particularly bad glow on your panel.

VA panels typically have 2-2.5x the contrast levels as IPS panels. After calibration, my IPS panels measure around 750:1, while my VA panel measures 1800:1. The black levels on the VA are noticeably darker than IPS, even without comparing side by side, but it's also nowhere close to OLED.

Why is a loop necessary? You just need to do the modulo operation once, and subtract the modulo from a to get your desired answer. Edit: if you are trying to find every factor of b that is ≤ a, then you just need to find the first factor as I stated above, and then decrement that factor by b until it is ≤ 0. There's no need to decrement by 1 if b is > 1.

Most people position themselves along the right edge of a car in front or behind. Moving all the way to the right invites a car to take up the space, squeezing you against the curb or a parked car. Most lanes are simply not wide enough to accommodate both a car and a bike side-by-side, so positioning as far as right as practical, while remaining in the line of sight of a car behind is usually the safest place to be while stopped. Cyclists are also allowed to "take the lane" (i.e. ride in the middle of the lane) whenever the lane is not wide enough to a car to pass, and it is often the safest thing to do. It's usually not the car directly behind that presents the greatest danger. It's the 3rd or 4th car that doesn't see the cyclist initially, and passes too closely or makes a right turn into the cyclist that is a bigger problem. In most places, cyclists don't get a head start at intersections and follow the same traffic signals as cars, so getting through the intersection quickly is crucial. Agreed. OP, a bike is better overall, but an e-scooter is also a solid option if you need to take it into a car.

When I say "pedal fast", I am not referring to crusing speed. Of course it is safer to travel slower, both from a physics and physiological perspective. I am referring to the constant accelerations that are required when cycling around cars on bad infrastructure. It is the amount of energy going from 0-5mph at every stop sign and traffic light that takes the most toll. If you are in a dedicated bike lane or bike path, then it's fine to take your time to get up to speed. But if you are sharing a lane with a car that may or may not have the patience to wait, then getting going quickly is crucial to safety. This is where ebikes make the most difference. It is not the increased speeds that they are capable of, as 15mph is plenty fast enough on city streets. It's the acceleration that they provide from a stop that will make people more comfortable commuting on an ebike compared to a regular bike.

It's not "some only poker game"; Pokerstars is the largest online poker site in the world. The mobile app lacks a lot of features that the desktop application has. I don't know if his dad plays to make money or just recreationally, but no serious player on Pokerstars uses the mobile app full time.

Pokerstars only runs on Windows, OS X, Android and iOS, so if his dad wants to play poker on a desktop/laptop, it would need to be running Windows.

In the US, it is absolutely an infrastructure issue. My city is supposedly one of the most cycling friendly cities in the country, but the city is littered with signage saying "Bike Route Begins/Ends" or "Bike Lane Begins/Ends". I wonder if the city planners expect cyclists to appear out of and disappear into thin air. Cyclists have to travel on the same road and lanes as cars, so it simply is not practical or safe to casually putter around at 12mph. Where there are no dedicated bike lanes, cyclists and cars are expected to "share the road", which, in practice, means riding in the door zone of parked cars, or in the gutter next to the curb while cars zoom pass on the left. The majority of states also don't have an "Idaho stop" law, which allows cyclists to treat stop signs as yield signs, so cyclists are legally required to stop every city block, and get going again. This is a big enough effort on the flats, but there are bike routes in my city that go up 8% grades with a stop sign at every intersection. It would take a 4w/kg effort just to get up an 8% grade at 12mph, let alone needing to make a massive acceleration after every stop. I don't think a single commuting cyclist actually follows this law (and rightfully so), but this leads to potential conflict with drivers who believe that cyclists don't follow the rules of the road. Ultimately, there is not a critical mass of cyclists in the US. It is easy to commute casually on a bike when the infrastructure is well built, and you are surrounded by other cyclists. It is an entirely different experience when you are on the road by yourself surrounded by cars. Pedaling fast is not for fun, but a matter of survival. It is hard enough to cycle in a big city with some amount of acceptance for cyclists and some amount of infrastructure. In smaller cities and suburbs where there are basically no streets, and the roads are four lanes wide in each direction with a 45mph speed limit, I would say that it is nigh suicidal to attempt to commute on a bike. I am hopeful that ebikes will bridge the gap between regular bikes and cars. If more people are on bikes, this will lead to greater acceptance of cyclists overall and more funding for cycling infrastructure.

I have an ebike on the way. A local incentive program made it affordable, so it was a no-brainer to get an additional commute option. I ride my normal bikes a lot outdoors and on my indoor trainer, but regular bikes are not practical for the majority of people in most cities. With an ebike, it's no problem to carry a couple of heavy U-locks and panniers, since the motor is doing most of the work. NY passed a law in April 2020, which matches the California standard of Class 1, 2 and 3 ebikes. Class 3 ebikes can have pedal assist up to 25mph in NY, which will make short work of your 3 mile commute. No license, registration, or insurance is required to operate any class of ebike, although I would personally recommend getting liability insurance if you have any assets to protect. https://dmv.ny.gov/registration/electric-scooters-and-bicycles-and-other-unregistered-vehicles

int StringSplit(char* str1, char* str2) { printf("Stop trying to cheat on your exams."); return -1; }

If everything that you do on your display is for your personal consumption, set whatever brightness you want. Your ColorMunki has an ambient light sensor though, so if you don't want to use an arbitrary brightness level, use the sensor to decide an appropriate setting for you.

I don't know the market in Europe, but I would guess that you can get way more price for performance than €500 for a 12" ported sub. Have you considered other brands? Also, in a room that small, I would opt for a sealed sub. Put a 12" or 15" in the corner, and you will get extension down to 15Hz or so with the room gain.

They would not know unless they were able to prove it. When you declare income, the burden of proof is on the IRS to prove otherwise. If it were me, I would keep good records regardless, just as you might if you were running a cash business. Deductions and credit claims are the other way around. You must prove that your claims are valid if you were audited.

A reasonable interpretation of this would be the daily "closing" price of the asset on the date that it was mined. Even though cryptocurrencies trade 24 hours a day, the "closing" price is the price as of 23:59:59 UTC, and you can find historical data on this fairly easily. The IRS would likely use a similar method to verify your basis claims.

32-bit images are 8 bits per channel (bpc) with an alpha channel. The latest JPEG standard supports up to 12 bpc, but nearly every image that you will find on the web will be 8 bpc. You will not find images that are exactly 10 bpc. They will either be in 16 bpc in TIFF, DNG, PSD formats for archival, or 8 bpc in JPEG format for viewing purposes.

Mbps = Megabits per second. Note the capitalization of the "b".

Well, I mean, if you're too stupid to remove the personally identifiable information, it would be fairly trivial to have that order cancelled, right?

Thank you so much for the helpful information! I figured that it was fully dead, but wanted to avoid throwing away batteries unnecessarily. But I guess it's not really worth the effort to try and salvage this one.

I received 14.4V Li-ion battery pack that seems to be DOA. The retailer is sending me a replacement and said that I don't need to return the dead battery. It seems that the product was sitting on the shelf for too long, and the voltage dropped too low. I have not disassembled the pack, but the size and shape suggests that it contains four 18650 cells. The pack reads 1.7V, which is around 0.43V per cell. Is the voltage too low to be revived? If the pack is salvageable, would I be able to parallel charge with a working pack without disassembling the pack?

You're asking the wrong question. The answer to "Is <insert activity> profitable?" is "Depends on your skills." Now here's the real answer: if you have the skills to be a profitable scalper, you would also have the skills to be profitable at something else that would generate a far higher ROI. So the correct question to ask is: "What is it that I have the skills to do that would maximize my profits?"

Anything longer than 3m requires optical cables. A 10m optical cable will run you around $550: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1522225-REG/areca_cb_tb3l10_thunderbolt_3_optical_cable.html

Position your displays diagonally, and your cursor will be constrained to the current screen.

A camera is not an eye, and a sensor does not see color, so whatever expectation that you have for a camera to capture an image the way that you see it is completely unfounded. It doesn't matter if you are using a 10 year old phone, or a $50,000 medium format back. Unless you are properly calibrating every step of your workflow (profiling the sensor, measuring the color temperature of the scene, profiling your display, profiling your printer), you are essentially guessing. Your eyes are subjective, and you're not going to be able to reliably tell the difference between ±250K or dE ±2. Measurement devices are objective and will be able to give you precise answers about what a color actually is. Beyond this, you need to understand that a camera captures a scene once, while your brain constantly adjusts for brightness and color temperature changes as your eyes scan the scene. Going from direct sunlight to shadow changes the color temperature by around 2000K. In a photo, this is an massive difference, but it is not something that you see in real time. Color correction is not just moving the temperature and tint sliders around until it looks correct. When there is mixed lighting, every part of a scene has a different color temperature, and it needs to be accounted for.

There are plenty of x86 SBCs on the market these days. Here is a fairly exhaustive list of SBCs with plenty of x86 entries: https://www.explainingcomputers.com/sbc.html

I don't have a Samsung TV, so I am not familiar with the model lines. I searched HU, but only found results for KU. If you are used to looking at 7500k, then 6500k is going to look too warm, but that's why I said you will want to get your colorimeter. Most LED displays will measure ~8000-8500k at factory default settings, so it takes quite a large adjustment to get to 6500k. In a pinch, you can compare a white screen with a piece of bright white paper in daylight.