badreg

It is likely that the battery of a 5 year old phone is already at the end of life, so you are not really burning much battery life by leaving it plugged in permanently. However, if you are worried about battery temperatures or potential swelling, root the phone, install something like Battery Charge Limit, and set the maximum SOC to ~60%.

You don't, unless you have access to the servers and make a copy of the source and databases. Making a 1:1 copy of a website without server access is only possible if the website's code is exclusively HTML, CSS and JS. The best you can do client-side is to scrape the content that you want, and reverse engineer the logic in order to display the content how it originally appears. But this is very bad practice, and something that is likely to get you banned by the target website. Not everything on the web is archivable, as evidenced by the amount of broken sites that exist on archive.org.

Call AT&T retention and get your offer renewed. I'm paying $40/month for 1Gbps. YMMV, but $60/month is a very standard deal, and there's no reason they wouldn't offer at least that to you.

It is theoretically possible with an external device that can act as an HDMI passthrough, has an IR receiver, and be programmed to control the volume through DDC/CI. However, there's no reason to spend the time, money and effort to build such a device when you can just buy external speakers.

Start by opening up the network tab in the Developer Tools in Firefox or Chrome. When you perform an action, you will see an HTTP POST request for the transaction. Once you have this, you can replicate the action via command line using a tool like curl. You will most likely have to set cookies and figure out a couple of other steps as well.

Size? UP3017 ticks all of your boxes. This is not really a thing. Displays may be "calibrated" from the factory, but not to D65. You'll need your own calibration device for that. The UP3017 has two hardware calibration profiles, so you can profile one for sRGB and the other one for Adobe RGB.

Doesn't matter. It's a compression artifact. What's the bitrate on the video? I'm guessing it's not much more than 15Mbps. Here's a video explainer that is helpful:

The banding exists in the source. You just can't see it in the non-HDR version because the shadows are crushed. Try again with a known good source.

Yeah, not perfectly legal at all, and completely against the ToS of every poker site. I played on Stars from 2012-2015 through a private VPN connection in Brazil with no issues, but there's no way that I would attempt doing that today with the level of security that exists now. You will be instantly flagged if you have any remote desktop software running, or run poker software in a VM. Running the poker software on your own machine and connecting through a private VPN may still be viable, but you would need to accept that there is a very significant chance that you will never see your deposit or winnings.

You can use Tabula to do this. Python example: import tabula f = tabula.read_pdf("example.pdf", pages='all')[0] tabula.convert_into("example.pdf", "example.csv", output_format="csv", pages='all') print(f)

Precisely this. At the beginning of loop #2, the EOF check fails, and scanf() gets called. scanf() encounters EOF, and returns without doing anything to userString. The loop continues, and parses userString again. At the beginning of loop #3, the EOF check passes, and the while loop breaks. Instead of a while(true) loop, this should be the conditional check: while(scanf("%s", userString) != EOF)

A slightly bodgy solution would be to use OpenCV (which has a Python library) to capture the ambient brightness from your webcam, and use that to invoke a command line DDC/CI tool (ControlMyMonitor, Monitorian, or whatever your manufacturer offers) to change the display brightness.

I use keepass, but that's definitely not the best option for a tech novice. I would research a paid option and prioritize convenience over ultimate security. The less of a pain it is to use, the more like your mom is to use it, which is the most important part.

If it were me, I would confirm this (the transaction line would say "ZELLE TO ...", which would confirm that her credentials were compromised, but there would still be no evidence that her computer was breached. It was most likely a phishing attack through text or email. Like everyone else says, set up unique passwords and 2FA on all accounts. Get her a password manager, and get her educated on how phishing attacks work.

No, I mean, how did the money leave her account? Even if we accept what you say at face value (i.e. malicious text circumventing 2FA, frozen sign in screen is a phishing site) and assumed that an attacker had full access to her online banking account, it is not easy to actually take money out of the account. Edit: saw your edit. So Zelle or similar, then?

$1,000 stolen how? It's difficult to transfer funds out of a bank account with just unauthorized access to the online account. Even with something like Zelle, an outgoing transfer to a new account requires second factor authentication. Regardless, as @rickeo says, the first step is to contact the bank and alert them of the fraud. It will be fairly trivial to recover the missing funds. I don't think that there is any evidence yet that any "hack" occurred.

The general term is System on a chip (SoC), but this usually describes a completely integrated chip that you would find for laptop and mobile applications. There are some ITX "SoC" boards, but it would be more accurate to just call them motherboards with integrated CPUs.

Setup a VPN server on a local device, and connect to it when you are on mobile.

I have never once had a catastrophic failure of a memory card over the course of my 15 year career as a photographer. I have heard countless stories of card failures, but no first hand experience, so by this point, I attribute most of those stories to user error. I have old Sandisk CF cards that are 15 years old that are still going strong. I have no issues using them for critical projects. Obviously, do what makes you comfortable, but using dual cards that are a year old will not be an issue. The camera will alert you if either card has a write error, and it is orders of magnitude more likely that you physically lose the cards than both failing simultaneously.

What exactly are you trying to achieve? Downmix a 5.1 source to 2.1? If so, just don't connect the center and rear speakers, and set your audio output to 2.1.

You're not going to get 220ppi from an external display. The only displays that you will find in that range are laptop and tablet displays. You haven't stated a valid reason on why you need 220ppi, or why that is an ideal pixel density for a MacBook, so unfortunately, I don't have anything to base a recommendation on. It seems to me that you would want more screen real estate for editing rather than less.

3840x2160 @ 220ppi is a 20" diagonal display, and such a product does not exist. The smallest 4k display is the 21.6" Asus ProArt PQ22UC, which is $3,999. You will need to go up to 24" to find something in your price range.

Everything you are doing sounds about right. There are more advanced settings that you can dig into in DisplayCal, but the most important one is using the right correction for your colorimeter and panel backlight. I follow more or less the same procedure when profiling my displays with an i1 Display Pro. TFT Central's review of the PG35VQ showed a reduction from 2080:1 to 1781:1 after calibration. The calibration was done with a spectrophotometer, which takes the correction out of the picture. The ~15% reduction in contrast post-calibration is typical for nearly all LED backlit displays, both in my own experience and from the database of reviews on TFT Central, so I am very curious why you aren't seeing similar results from your calibrations. https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/asus_rog_swift_pg35vq.htm#brightness

Sorry, I thought you were referring to spec values, and not measured values. Seems like IPS panels have improved around 20% over the past few years. However, it is impossible to not lose any contrast after profiling an LED backlit display. Profiling a display with a WLED or GB LED backlight involves reducing the intensity of the blue and green subpixels to match the brightness of the red subpixels to set a D65 white point. This reduces the luminance of the white point, but the luminance of the black point is unaffected, which reduces the contrast ratio. How are you able to calibrate and profile, such that the contrast ratio is unaffected?

There's a difference between what displays are spec'd at, and what they measure at. Keep in mind that calibration and profiling further reduces the contrast ratio. My IPS panel is spec'd for 1000:1, but measures at 750:1 with a colorimeter. Likewise, my VA panel is spec'd for 2000:1, but measures at 1800:1.