Finners369

Recently I upgraded my case ,storage, cooling, and PSU, due to my PSU just not powering on one day and general loud and lagging performance. I rebuilt the parts in the new case and then went to turn it on. All the fans power on, the lights on the graphics card and motherboard light up, but theres no video out. I tried changing cables, with different ports and monitors and using HDMI rather than DP, but nothing. I tried using the motherboards video out HDMI, but that didnt give me anything either, even after restarting and spamming the BIOS key. I know something works because my monitor flickers bright purple a bit when I plug the HDMI cable in, and when it is plugged in and has no display, not even the black backlight that can pop up when booting, the monitor doesnt start to time out when connected to the graphics card, but does when plugged into the motherboard or not plugged in at all. The motherboard has 4 little red LED lights for troubleshooting. Right after power on the red "CPU" LED lights up solid for about 5 seconds, then no lights for a second, then the red "VGA" (for the graphics card) LED lights up solid (at the same time it lights up the fans slow for a second aswell) and stays on. None of the components like motherboard or CPU or graphics card have been changed, so what gives? Motherboard: B450 Tomohawk Max CPU: Ryzen 5400 GPU: Gigabyte 1660 Super

[Ryzen 3600, MSI Tomahawk Gaming, 1660ti] I was doing a clean Windows install ,because my last installation was fucked. And after going into BIOS, I changed my boot order to boot from USB first, restarted the PC with the Windows Install USB in, then nothing. At first I thought the USB was bugged or something so I unplugged it and restarted, again nothing. Wont go into Windows, USB or BIOS. Just a blank screen. My monitors arent disconnected, and the PC is turning on, but just no video. Oddly after the PC is on, the power button on my case doesnt work now, only turns off when held down which boots straight to BIOS. I've also tried turning the PC off by disconnecting power and thats the same. Only further idea I see is a BIOS flash and thats gonna be a bitch. Any other ideas would be nice :)

Now i switched to UEFI and boot to my SSD it just loops back to the BIOS

But I am pretty sure my SSD has windows

I dont have a Usb with windows on atm

Yes but nothing besides the SSD has windows.

Last night, my PC worked fine but to turn it off I turned off the power as my PC wasnt shutting down for some reason. Today I turned on my PC and it went to the "Please insert Boot device" screen. I go into the BIOS change my boot order to Legacy + UEFI, with my SSD being first, see if that will help. Boot again, same screen again. I remove all my other drives to see if that helps and then overide the boot order to start with my SSD, again "Please insert Boot Device" Honestly cant think of why it has done this, I have a surge protector so Im pretty sure me turning didnt fry my SSD. It had Windows 10 home 64bit but it seems like its been wiped somehow. Any ideas?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor £144.94 @ Amazon UK Motherboard MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard £89.98 @ Amazon UK Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory £99.48 @ Amazon UK Storage Kingston - A400 960 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive £106.20 Video Card Zotac - GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB GAMING Video Card £271.49 @ Amazon UK Case Corsair - Carbide Series 275R (Black w/Tempered Glass) ATX Mid Tower Case £59.99 @ Amazon UK Power Supply Corsair - VS 650 W ATX Power Supply £45.48 Headphones Kingston - HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset Purchased For £0.00 Other Gaming Keyboard Mouse UK Layout【Rainbow LED Backlit Metal Keyboard, Programmable Mouse】VicTsing Gaming Keyboard and Mouse Set with Ergonomic Wrist Rest, Comfortable & Durable - Black £20.99 @ Amazon UK Other ANEWISH Wifi Dongle AC Dual Band (5GHz 433Mbps OR 2.4GHz 150Mbps) Wireless USB Wifi Adapter for PC/Desktop/Laptop Supports Windows/Linux/MAC OS (3DBI Black) £9.99 @ Amazon UK Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total £848.54 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-23 12:04 GMT+0000 I will use Linux Mint and I have Amazon prime, thanks.

The antenna, basically

Pcie card are generally better and faster, but the main difference is it taking up a Pcie or USB slot. And sometimes Pcie cards have an antenna or two.

If you use Ryzen Master no, not sure if upping the voltage voids it thought

Is Win10 Pro really worth the extra money though? Otherwise looks good

Non-Glass backs, yeah I get there nice to feel and yes they are somewhat resistant but nowhere near a different material

Personally I don't like Razor, they're overpriced, over-hyped and not THAT good. Get a Cherry Blue Keyboard if I were you

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor $159.89 @ OutletPC Motherboard MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard $99.99 @ B&H Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory $69.99 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital - Blue 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $149.89 @ OutletPC Case Cougar - MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case $41.99 @ B&H Power Supply EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $75.93 @ OutletPC Wireless Network Adapter Asus - PCE-AC51 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter $29.89 @ OutletPC Keyboard Corsair - STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard $89.99 @ Amazon Mouse Redragon - COBRA M711 Wired Optical Mouse $19.99 @ Amazon Headphones Kingston - HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset Purchased For $0.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $782.55 Mail-in rebates -$45.00 Total $737.55 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-08 10:45 EDT-0400 Going to try and overclock the RAM to 3200 gHz In the future I plan to get a GPU and another stick of RAM. Already own the Cloud 2's. Going to buy it all on Amazon making it $749.72