LCDR E-314 - Professor G

Thanks for the Idea...

Maybe in the future but at the moment, No. Since it is a dorm room 1 person studio apartment, sitting right next to where I am working on anything, fun or uni stuff, I would prefer the noise to be at a minimum. If I was in class or playing games looking at the same monitor I am now, the printer would be sitting at my 4 o'clock under 1m away.

Thanks for your response and I can't wait to get a printer. I am even hopeful that it will become more useful further into my course. I respect your recommendation, and I have talked to people about the Ender 3 and 5 Models in the past with high regard. I know of a little software start-up that I met at PAX Aus last year that use them internally for testing their cloud printing software. However my main problem is they are not enclosed, which was a stipulation of me buying a printer, and the one Creality make that is enclosed is to expensive. Cheers...

I am looking to get my own 3d printer, as the university I am studying at seem to not let students outside of the Design Faculty (I'm in SciTech) use there FFF and Resin printers in free time. I am looking at getting something from FlashForge or TierTime as I am already familiar with their printers and have used them in the past. However as a student, I live in the student subsidised accomidation situated in the area of the campus, and as such, things are bound to their building. In this instance, the fire alarms are notoriously painful because of the alert going to the Fire Department, and will lead to a fine to the tune of ~$1463 for a false alarm, if the firefighters and building management declare it as that. My conern is that will an enclosed printer, using a varity of materials (mainly ABS, PLA, and the occasional PVA), set off fumes from the filament, printer, etc. set off the fire alarm, as I would lose a lot of money, the worth of the printer in the fine if it goes off and I can't shut it off. And if the fumes set off the alarm every time I use the printer, then it will never get used or I go bankrupt. As a side note, any Aussies out there, do you know of where the best place is to buy 3d printers and consumables, other then JayCar, they have some but not a wide range. Cheers...

You are right, duely noted, however you can get ones that don't require drivers, which should avert the problem. I always link these websites links, as because I am from Australia, in a regional area, I am very limited to what I can get that isn't horribly expensive. The thing with PC gear in Australia is that if a product is in Australia, there is a high chance there is a similar product elsewhere in the world. But it is not Vice Versa, It is very hard to get something from another country (e.g US) that is not available in Australia, into the country at a reasonable price (e.g Digital Storm Custom Laptops and Desktops [I know this because I have tried to get one]). Please do not take my link recommendations as you have to get it from this store and this exact product, it is just an example of a product, that does what you want it to do, leaving open options for similar products that are available in your area. I am not affiliated with this store, but where I am located in Australia leads me to order from this store frequently.

Where I am from, VR and MR is very expensive. However I was able to score a Lenovo MR Kit on clearence for $250, down from $700. I love this thing. I use it exactly for what you want. It definately helps that on Steam, there is a plugin for Steam VR on MR, which streamlines the process. It is definately a low budget VR option, with the main downside is the specs of the kits compared to a Vive, or Rift Kit. For Context: In Australia, a Vive Pro Kit costs $2199 - https://www.pccasegear.com/products/42283/htc-vive-pro-virtual-reality-headset-kit

A thunderbolt 3 dock is a great idea if the laptop supports, and depending on what one you get will depend on your I/O options. One like this should do it. https://www.pccasegear.com/products/40283/mbeat-elite-usb-type-c-multifunction-dock As this one has a hdmi in it, you could hook up your external monitor. As for gaming, I reccomend hooking up a kvm switch (keyboard, video and mouse) https://www.pccasegear.com/products/42811/startech-2-port-usb-displayport-cable-kvm-switch Connect the 2 machines and then with a push of a button you could switch between machines without changing peripherals. The one I linked above is a display port one so you might need to pick your own or get adaptors for what you need. Cheers... Professor G.

Fan controller. https://www.pccasegear.com/category/9_511/fans-accessories/fan-controllers https://www.pccasegear.com/products/39193/corsair-commander-pro-link-system Use a PWM one, so you can have fan curves, and program RGB if you have it. This corsair on is very good and widely used.

Years ago, maybe, Very old CD Keys may not use steam and require the CD to run. Easiest examples include the Star Wars: Empire of War game and the original Call Of Duty on PC. No harm in trying it.

That should work as long as their is an active license for the game on your Steam Account.

Personally, I like skins that fit my personality, intrests, and knowledge. That's why I like things that mirror metals or carbon fibre, geometric patters, as well as camo due to my interest in military. Everyone I talk to who put skins on things, they feel so much better when their device mirrors their personality. Maybe you should try it, because it could help your decision.

That's the thing with companies like Valve, they like to restrict things. For example, I was in hospital for a month and I had to verify my account access when I was discharged, I had to wait 3 days until I could use Steam Online. I'd be tempted to find the files for the game (if they have downloaded) and see if you can launch it from the exe file. It has worked for some Steam Games before e.g Hacknet, Garry's Mod.

Might be just a new verification measure that Valve have implamented. Check your email for a verification email from Steam. If there is nothing there, you might just have to wait, or contact steam support at this link. https://help.steampowered.com/en/ Cheers... Professor G.

This sounds like a preference is set to be GPU accelerated. Simple fix is inside media encoder, go to Prefrences -> General -> Video Rendering -> Change Render to software only. That should take away the gpu strain and put it on the cpu. Also try changing the priority of Media Encoder in Task Manager to a higher setting to prioritise the program to use more CPU. See if that Works. Cheers. Professor G.

According to Occulus, a Desktop 1050 Ti is needed, which is higher performence then a Notebook 1050 however it may work with a notebook 1050ti (unsure as of this moment, I run my headset off of an external gpu). The only way I could consider this laptop to work would be some creative work with Windows Mixed Reality on Steam VR, which is possible, however runs horribly. If you are willing to pay more, these are good options for VR ready laptops. https://www.pccasegear.com/products/46561/asus-strix-g-core-i7-geforce-gtx-1650-15-6in-120hz-notebook https://www.mwave.com.au/product/msi-gl65-9sc-156-gaming-laptop-i59300h-16gb-512gb-gtx1650-w10h-ac26827

You will be hard pressed to find a decent gaming laptop for $1000 in Australia. Big box stores like Harvey Norman or JB-Hi-Fi, have ridiculous markups on some of their laptops e.g https://www.jbhifi.com.au/products/asus-tuf-gaming-fx505-15-6-full-hd-laptop vs the same laptop from an actual computer parts store https://www.pccasegear.com/products/46794/asus-tuf-amd-ryzen-5-geforce-gtx-1050-15-6in-notebook Most VR ready Laptops start at around $1500 for a decent model due to the need of multiple I/O ports (USB, HDMI etc.) Have a poke around on these sort of stores, and with black friday around the corner you could pick up a bargin, but you will most likely need to spend a bit more then $1000. https://www.pccasegear.com/ https://www.mwave.com.au/ https://www.scorptec.com.au/ These stores are all very reliable and I have ordered many things off them and met some of the salespeople at PAX Aus. Yes the overseas market is an option but I would be hesitant to buy from the US due to shipping costs and overall currency conversion price. Cheers... Professor G.

My mouse has been disconnecting from my computer and the sensor is on (at least the faint red light is) when power is connected or when wireless is switched on but with no input or RGB coming up. This happened after both the Logo, Front Zone, and Multi Purpose RGB started Breathing Red in unison. I have tried to soft reset the mouse and I cant find a pin to do a hard reset. When it is plugged in, nothing shows up within Windows. I have used the mouse twice since I bought it from PC Case Gear in Melbourne, and this issue has started happening now. I have contacted Corsair Support but they have not replied yet. Anyone got any suggestions?

That is a pretty good rig for a first timer. I like the fact that you are choosing some previous generation parts. That is a great way to save money. Be very careful with the Used GPU market. They could be quite heavily used if they were a mining card. I'm interested to know what you are going to use for a cooler for your cpu at this stage. Depending on how many games you are going to be installing on your drive, you might want to consider a small SSD for OS and a 2-4tb hdd for regular storage to save money. Titles like Beamng drive won't benefit too much from being on an SSD compared to a title like Metal Gear Solid 5 where it is loading massive amount of data directly from the drive without an internet connection.

You'll have to try someone else. I have no idea what brands are available in America. When I did my network, i used Clipsal cable as shown here. https://www.tle.mmem.com.au/datacomm-cables-and-equipment/physical-infrastructure/category-66a-solutions/cli2d4p6ipv3bbu.html?rl=1

There is nothing wrong with what you have planned. Do you have the hardware ready or do you need recommendations on a switch?

At first glance it is an old Intel compatable motherboard. 1. It has a Socket that uses pins on the CPU itself. Intel has not used these kind of sockets in over 15 years, since 2004 when they switched to modern LGA sockets. 2. It has DDR2 sockets on the board for RAM. 3. A lack of modern PCI connections to plug in GPUs. Definitely more of a collectors piece if sold to the right person but I couldn't give you a price.

3 questions. 1. Are you sure that the point where you plug your modem in has a working connection to get you internet. 2. Are you sure that Wi-Fi will get around the entire house in both the locations that your considering. 3. Have you decided how you are going to run cables (internal/external/mixed). Read up on your building code restrictions that apply to houses in your area so that when you run cables, you do it right and you don't get in trouble. Unfortunately you can't avoid the cost of expensive tools in the first instance and keep in mind that from my experience with Cat6 cable, you buy an entire box of it. You will be stuck with the entire cost of 1 box of cable. A way to avoid this is that if you have a friend who can run cable as part of his employment and will help you run cable, you can use their tools (unless you need a specific tool) and they can buy the cable and you only pay for what you use, while they use the rest for other jobs they are hired to do. Generally it is better if you have 2 people doing this job. Generally the tools that you will need will be; - Wire Strippers - RJ-45 Crimpers (Unless you are doing wall plates on both ends) - Dry wall cutter - Good Quality Fisher Wire (To find and run cable through walls.) - Drill with assorted bits (Spade bits, Drill Bits and Screw Bits) - Ladder (To get into cavities) - Stud Finder In addition to that, good quality plates and connections will expand the life of the system for years. I don't live in the US so I am not sure where exactly to get good cable from as well as plates and connectors, but as a general rule of thumb, electrical and data suppliers will have a good selection of different types of cable. It's down to you to do your research unless another person of the forum can help you.

HI all. I recently posted a topic linked here: Unfortunately I got no replies and I think this is down to the time it was posted and how fast it was moved through the feed. If anybody has any suggestions to what is previously said feel free, but i have an update on what I need. At the end of the last post i said i needed a thunderbolt item, and I am yet to find anything to fit what I need. I have an alternative in a powered USB 3.1 hub, any suggestions welcome as long as it has more then 3 ports. Does anybody have any advice on a choice of headset. So far I like Astro A50 wireless, SteelSeries Arctis Pro Wireless, and ATH-M50X Wireless with a ModMic Wireless. For any furniture buffs out there I need a chair big enough for myself to fit in and rest my head against the back, in terms of height, I am 6'1". I no longer require a speaker set due to the conditions of my apartment. Let me know, please, and Thanks in advanced.

Moving to Uni next year. Getting a list of things, I need for class and living near Uni. On the Tech side of things, I am after new peripherals. A list of stuff I need is as follows; - Monitor 27’ or larger, 2560x1440p or bigger, ASUS, AOC, LG, Samsung or ViewSonic brands preferable. - Mouse Larger Build with right-handed ergonomics, Logitech (Gaming series or MX Master), Razer, Corsair or SteelSeries Preferable, Wireless. - Keyboard Mechanical and Wireless (If possible), Tactile switches or Linear (similar to MX Red and brown switches) - Speakers Multiple Speakers with Subwoofer, Audiophile or Logitech brands preferable. - Headset/Headphone and Mic Combo. Wireless Headset (Audiophile brands like Audio-Technica, or Gaming Brands), or Antlion ModMic Wireless to add to my M50X wireless. - USB-C Hub Need 2, one with a thunderbolt 3 pass through and one normal hub (can be USB-A) Let me know what you recommend please… Cheers… Professor G.

However remember, you still need to buy a W10 license key.