jiyeon

YouTube defaults to 360p due to the COVID-19 pandemic giving more traffic towards the site because everyone is flocking to YouTube, and their servers clearly can't cope. It's something you're going to have to deal with.
 
At best, you could set your desktop YouTube to 'prefer AV1' as shown below:
 

Cherry switches are overpriced to begin with anyway. You can buy Gaterons on sale for $2 per 10 pack on KBDfans, which I did for Gateron Browns, Reds, and Blues, putting them at $0.20 a switch.
The only Cherry switch worth buying in my opinion is the Cherry Black.
 
KBDfans does expedited shipping at $15 but also does free shipping on orders over $40, so it's a good place to purchase mechanical keyboard equipment and components provided you're in a country where you won't be susceptible to import and custom taxes/imports.
I live in the United Kingdom and so ordering anythng from the United States from places such as NovelKeys lands me in deep custom charges. KBDfans is China-based and therefor doesn't incur import tax to the United Kingdom.

My right shift key probably gets less used than my Scroll Lock key, everything that requires a shift I always use the left shift with my pinkie.

Awesome work! Can't imagine how long this must have taken you to compile all this information.

Sources: Dave2D | Engadget | Android Central
 
Asus has officially come out with the newest addition to the ZenFone lineup, the ZenFone 6, which looks to offer another option to Android lovers around the world with its arsenal of high-end hardware and stock Android to boot.
 
 
The most notable things about the phone are the internal specs, boasting a Snapdragon 855, 8GB of RAM, a headphone jack (wow), and a huge 5000mAh battery.
 
Additionally, it's notchless. That's done through the flip camera.
 
 
As for price, the ZenFone 6 will launch at €499 for the 6GB RAM variant.
 
 
It seems Asus has really taken the time to make a phone that strays away from the bloatware-infested old iterations of the previous ZenFones and introduced a package with amazing internal specs and an equally impressive exterior with no notch and a unique flip camera, similar to the likes of old Oppo phones.

First of all, don't call it a war, it's a comparison with no form of violence or conflict.
 
They're both 1920x1080, both 60Hz, both have 5ms response time, they're strikingly similar on paper. Where the similarities end is that the AOC monitor is an IPS WLED compared to the BenQ which is VA LED.
 
I have little knowledge on displays, so I can't comment on the pros and cons for each, but I would personally choose the AOC one, IPS has great color accuracy.

GROUND CONTROL TO MAJOR TOM!
 
God damn, I love the aesthetics of this build so far!

Thermal compound application.
 
Every time I apply thermal compound even though I know exactly how much I should be applying, I always get paranoid about whether the compound shifted around whilst I bolt down the cooler.
 
Thermal compound is also the one liquid that I've experienced with in PC building, so I'm cautious about getting it on my hands and other objects, it's icky to work with.

Shit, sorry to hear that happened. That foam was waiting for the opportunity to strike, it seems.
The idea of re-routing the cables underneath was cool on paper, but clearly in practise, it's gone exactly how 2020 would have wanted it go.
 
Happy to hear your stuff is insured though, 2020 can't take away absolutely everything.

Shit, sorry to hear that happened. That foam was waiting for the opportunity to strike, it seems.
The idea of re-routing the cables underneath was cool on paper, but clearly in practise, it's gone exactly how 2020 would have wanted it go.
 
Happy to hear your stuff is insured though, 2020 can't take away absolutely everything.

Shit, sorry to hear that happened. That foam was waiting for the opportunity to strike, it seems.
The idea of re-routing the cables underneath was cool on paper, but clearly in practise, it's gone exactly how 2020 would have wanted it go.
 
Happy to hear your stuff is insured though, 2020 can't take away absolutely everything.

Shit, sorry to hear that happened. That foam was waiting for the opportunity to strike, it seems.
The idea of re-routing the cables underneath was cool on paper, but clearly in practise, it's gone exactly how 2020 would have wanted it go.
 
Happy to hear your stuff is insured though, 2020 can't take away absolutely everything.

So I have a little warning for all of you guys looking at these:

 
I recently bought them for my rig, and I ran them on 2 RTX 2080 GPU's. They do look awesome, and they clean up the cables real nice.

 
So I put my PC on standby and go to my parents in law for Christmas. About 2 hours later I get a call. The apartment is on fire!
 
Basically what happened, the PC went out of sleep because a cat probably jumped on the desk or moved the mouse around a bit. The PC booted and idled for a little while.
Then the bottom 8 pin adapter either shorted, or got so hot that the foam on the back caught fire.  
Lo and behold, a couple minutes later the entire PC is an inferno.
 
The neighbors notice, and thankfully manage to put out the fire with a powder extinguisher. Sadly the powder also destroyed all my network and server equipment in my rack. As well as all my peripherals and custom keyboards.


 
The fire department managed to confirm the fire started in the bottom adapter. It's also almost completely gone, while the other 3 are still somewhat intact.

 
Be careful people!
 

I've been able to get my G305's weight down by using lithium AAA batteries with an AAA battery adapter. Lithium batteries are the lightest AAA batteries I've found so far. The ones I use are Energizer Lithium, they're around £1.74 per battery in a 4-pack of £6.99.
I can't remember off the top of my head, but I believe my G305 weighs around 86g thanks to the AAA battery.
 
I can't comment on back cover as I've not been able to get any 3D-printing done to reduce the weight down further.

What is your keyboard?
If your keyboard comes with Outemu hotswap socket, you will have to thin down the bronze pins of non-Outemu switches in order to swap em in.

As soon as you turn off the power supply, disconnect it from the wall and put on your static wrist ban. 

Maybe this guy keeps robbing the delivery trucks to EVGA? 🤔

Hi, hope everyone is well. Just need to voice something and I didn't know where else to talk.
Scan computers which is one of the larger PC suppliers in the UK is doing the dirty on every single person that phones them. The only number that they advertise is a premium line phone number and not a cheap one. I understand that a lot of companies do this but Scan Computers doesn't even tell you. I could not find any reference to call prices anywhere. But this is not what the Con is! What they do is connect you to a call waiting queue immediately when you call and they instantly start charging you. About 20mins in que, 2 mins with customer service, £25. So not only are they making money on price increased CPUs and GPUs, they are making money on every poor soul that is after one. But this is not only sales this is on returns and general information calls. 
Every person that phones is being charged without knowing. They must be making a fortune!! I left a comment on a Scan computers YouTube video talking about this and some other poor bugger got charged £120. (https://youtu.be/6cQdn3uezBk).
People need to be made aware of what's happening but I don't know what to do. :(
Any suggestions would be great.
Yes I have confronted them about it and they refunded me after a cross examination. But they just don't seem to care and are happy to continue.

Obligatory "I'm a Logitech G920 owner and I've had no issues" statement aside, a few things to note about the Logitech G920 and the Thrustmaster TX.
 
The Logitech G920/29 produces 2.2Nm of torque; The Thrustmaster TMX produces 2Nm of torque.
source
 
The Logitech Shifter is an optional extra, you do not need to buy it, unless the simulator you're playing on has cars with H-shifters, otherwise the paddle shifters used for sequential semi-automatic cars will suffice.
 
I've got my money on that you're likely using too high of a force feedback setting. This can also depend on what game you are playing. Simcade games like Project Cars 2 will definitely rock you out of the wheel on 100% force feedback, while other simulation games like Assetto Corsa Competizione are more lenient on how aggressive the overall force feedback profile is.
Arguably, your final point about the G920 being too violent would contradict how you said the G920 produces less feedback... Unless you really despise the gear-driven force feedback system of the G920 for some reason.
 
I feel like you're highly dismissing the G920 and other gear-driven racing wheels due to your soiled experience with the G920 which I still feel is wholely undeserved. You've given no real critcism towards the wheel apart from "It's too violent and doesn't produce enough force feedback, it's also loud", which have lacked anecdotal evidence apart from "My friend owns one and I used it for a while".
 
Reality is, gear-driven racing wheels are what you will come to expect from this $150-$250 price point, with the Thrustmaster being the only real belt-hybrid I have come across from a few minutes of research with your given pricepoint.
 
Admittedly I am a little disappointed you find the G920 to have let you down as it has, but I'd highly recommend you give it another shot, and properly configure force feedback and get to know the wheel better. You've already tried it, and therefor you would be able to know the wheel and the pedals with a few more laps around the track.
That being said, you also mentioned your friend also owns a Thrustmaster TX so... The choice is really in your ballpark. You have experience with both Logitech and Thrustmaster wheels, reality is it's up to you to decide which you want for yourself, but like I said earlier, I feel like you're letting your emotions cloud your judgement regarding the Logitech G920.
 
However, I can understand that if you truly despise the Logitech wheels, I won't force them down your throat.
 
For further reading on Thrustmaster wheels, I've found some posts from other forums that detail what you can expect if you choose a Thrustmaster wheel, and why torque generally does not matter, as well as generally just further reading into which wheel you want.
G29 vs T120 - Torque discussion
User chooses G29 over T15/TMX after watching InsideSimRacing review
SimRacingPaddock's 2018 Racing Wheel Buyers' Guide
r/simracing Torque Discussion

Hi, I'm looking to expand my videography setup and I'm looking for a decent microphone. For some context, I use a Samsung S20 connected to an Adonit V-grip which has an included hotshoe on it, so I'm able to connect a hotshoe microphone on it.
 
Some criteria for the microphone:
Must be otshoe-mountable Must be USB-C or USB-C-to-3.5mm dongle-compatible Audio quality must be better than my Samsung S20's microphone Must be <£50 - Ideally purchased on Amazon.co.uk  
It sounds like a difficult task to meet all the criteria, and I'm honestly not completely sold on getting a microphone yet, but thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Could you provide a source for where you belive the TMX is producing more torque? At the moment, you sound like you're trying to justify the TMX.
 
Additionally, why are you complaining about the G920 being violent, but also complaining that it's not producing enough force? Which are you actually looking for in a wheel? The 2nm of torque that the G920 procudes is typical for a consumer-grade racing wheel.

Obligatory "I'm a Logitech G920 owner and I've had no issues" statement aside, a few things to note about the Logitech G920 and the Thrustmaster TX.
 
The Logitech G920/29 produces 2.2Nm of torque; The Thrustmaster TMX produces 2Nm of torque.
source
 
The Logitech Shifter is an optional extra, you do not need to buy it, unless the simulator you're playing on has cars with H-shifters, otherwise the paddle shifters used for sequential semi-automatic cars will suffice.
 
I've got my money on that you're likely using too high of a force feedback setting. This can also depend on what game you are playing. Simcade games like Project Cars 2 will definitely rock you out of the wheel on 100% force feedback, while other simulation games like Assetto Corsa Competizione are more lenient on how aggressive the overall force feedback profile is.
Arguably, your final point about the G920 being too violent would contradict how you said the G920 produces less feedback... Unless you really despise the gear-driven force feedback system of the G920 for some reason.
 
I feel like you're highly dismissing the G920 and other gear-driven racing wheels due to your soiled experience with the G920 which I still feel is wholely undeserved. You've given no real critcism towards the wheel apart from "It's too violent and doesn't produce enough force feedback, it's also loud", which have lacked anecdotal evidence apart from "My friend owns one and I used it for a while".
 
Reality is, gear-driven racing wheels are what you will come to expect from this $150-$250 price point, with the Thrustmaster being the only real belt-hybrid I have come across from a few minutes of research with your given pricepoint.
 
Admittedly I am a little disappointed you find the G920 to have let you down as it has, but I'd highly recommend you give it another shot, and properly configure force feedback and get to know the wheel better. You've already tried it, and therefor you would be able to know the wheel and the pedals with a few more laps around the track.
That being said, you also mentioned your friend also owns a Thrustmaster TX so... The choice is really in your ballpark. You have experience with both Logitech and Thrustmaster wheels, reality is it's up to you to decide which you want for yourself, but like I said earlier, I feel like you're letting your emotions cloud your judgement regarding the Logitech G920.
 
However, I can understand that if you truly despise the Logitech wheels, I won't force them down your throat.
 
For further reading on Thrustmaster wheels, I've found some posts from other forums that detail what you can expect if you choose a Thrustmaster wheel, and why torque generally does not matter, as well as generally just further reading into which wheel you want.
G29 vs T120 - Torque discussion
User chooses G29 over T15/TMX after watching InsideSimRacing review
SimRacingPaddock's 2018 Racing Wheel Buyers' Guide
r/simracing Torque Discussion

Had some down time last night and swapped in some C³ Tangerines (67g) on my KBD67v2. The C³ Kiwis have been nice but they need to be lubed.
 

 

 
I left the top row as I want a side-by-side comparison so I can decide which to solder into an upcoming build.
 

 
Tangerines are hella smooth, and while I question what 'Factory lubed' really is, they do not sound scratchy at all, a good first impression. 
 

 

 
 
Typing Comparison - (Amplified audio by 10db)
 
- C³ Kiwi:

Kiwi Keyobard Type Test.mp4  
- C³ Tangerine:

Tangerine Keyboard Type Test.mp4  
I will give the C³ Tangerines a go for a week or two until my GMK Red Samurai caps arrive then I am trying out my first clickys!
 
Hopefully everyone has a good Christmas / Happy Holidays! Stay safe!

Obligatory "I'm a Logitech G920 owner and I've had no issues" statement aside, a few things to note about the Logitech G920 and the Thrustmaster TX.
 
The Logitech G920/29 produces 2.2Nm of torque; The Thrustmaster TMX produces 2Nm of torque.
source
 
The Logitech Shifter is an optional extra, you do not need to buy it, unless the simulator you're playing on has cars with H-shifters, otherwise the paddle shifters used for sequential semi-automatic cars will suffice.
 
I've got my money on that you're likely using too high of a force feedback setting. This can also depend on what game you are playing. Simcade games like Project Cars 2 will definitely rock you out of the wheel on 100% force feedback, while other simulation games like Assetto Corsa Competizione are more lenient on how aggressive the overall force feedback profile is.
Arguably, your final point about the G920 being too violent would contradict how you said the G920 produces less feedback... Unless you really despise the gear-driven force feedback system of the G920 for some reason.
 
I feel like you're highly dismissing the G920 and other gear-driven racing wheels due to your soiled experience with the G920 which I still feel is wholely undeserved. You've given no real critcism towards the wheel apart from "It's too violent and doesn't produce enough force feedback, it's also loud", which have lacked anecdotal evidence apart from "My friend owns one and I used it for a while".
 
Reality is, gear-driven racing wheels are what you will come to expect from this $150-$250 price point, with the Thrustmaster being the only real belt-hybrid I have come across from a few minutes of research with your given pricepoint.
 
Admittedly I am a little disappointed you find the G920 to have let you down as it has, but I'd highly recommend you give it another shot, and properly configure force feedback and get to know the wheel better. You've already tried it, and therefor you would be able to know the wheel and the pedals with a few more laps around the track.
That being said, you also mentioned your friend also owns a Thrustmaster TX so... The choice is really in your ballpark. You have experience with both Logitech and Thrustmaster wheels, reality is it's up to you to decide which you want for yourself, but like I said earlier, I feel like you're letting your emotions cloud your judgement regarding the Logitech G920.
 
However, I can understand that if you truly despise the Logitech wheels, I won't force them down your throat.
 
For further reading on Thrustmaster wheels, I've found some posts from other forums that detail what you can expect if you choose a Thrustmaster wheel, and why torque generally does not matter, as well as generally just further reading into which wheel you want.
G29 vs T120 - Torque discussion
User chooses G29 over T15/TMX after watching InsideSimRacing review
SimRacingPaddock's 2018 Racing Wheel Buyers' Guide
r/simracing Torque Discussion

Organisation and patience, make sure you know where all your screws go is the most important point, I believe, as a new layer of thermal paste will be useless if you can't put your card back together.
 
As for the re-paste itself, I've re-pasted my own Asus Dual GTX 1060 using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (a non-conductive paste) and I used around a pea size, but slightly smaller than what a CPU would get,. as the die is noticeably smaller than a CPU heatspreader.
 
As a final note, if you're not seeing concerning temperatures, it's probably not worth the risk unless your card is extremely easy to disassemble. Be patient and careful if you proceed.