vWORMHAT

Just found this which is the exact problem https://steamcommunity.com/groups/homestream/discussions/0/1660069015231601632/

Trying to get remote play to work to stream from my tower to a less powerful laptop in the other room. Problem is the resolution is broken. 

I've set the resolution on the tower to be 1080 (same as laptop) and disabled the other monitors (it is a curved monitor if that matters) I also changed the scaling modes with no success. 

It streams just fine to my iPad with the steam link app .

Also tried putting both in big picture mode and still it comes out broken in the stream. I'll include a picture of how the image is broken. Hoping someone else experienced the same issue and found a solution. 

I still need to try the customize setting in forum but it was missing last night 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Under remote play settings I did try dynamic adjust and change desktop resolution to match with no success 

18 hours ago, LogicalDrm said:

Thats odd way to fix things, but oh well. I was just making sure I understood correctly. Showing how things look on another PC that didn't originally had the boot record of the 2nd Windows OS doesn't say anything to me (maybe to someone else, idk if you would see another PCs bootdrive info with disk manager).

 

Your link is the other route, I think. But I would go with this guide instead https://woshub.com/how-to-repair-uefi-bootloader-in-windows-8/

I solved it, I am idiot lol. So when I swapped the ram I also had to reset the crossover to get it to post chich changed my boot settings to uefi and the drive I wanted to boot from was MBR, changing the os option to cms it could then see the drive. I switched it back to uefi and did this to the drive

Thanks for taking all that time to try and help!

https://superuser.com/questions/1106885/how-to-give-new-hard-drive-boot-page-file-crash-dump-status

partition no longer boot,page file, crash dump

Disk 0 is what i originally had as my local C but now its not partitioned as a boot page crash dump primary partition

21 hours ago, LogicalDrm said:

This is bit confusing. You have 2 computers. One was having issues, so you moved its boot drive to another PC to back it up or for some other reason. Now when you move it back, it doesn't work properly in the original PC? It doesn't boot in 2nd PC since the 2nd PC doesn't know it has bootable OS (boot record doesn't show it as bootable or something, bit beyond me). If the original PC doesn't have any disk changes (with older mobos change of SATA cables is enough to cause chaos), it should just 

I had to swap out the ram for the pc to start, and for some reason it would only boot from a backup I already had from last year on a seperare drive in the pc. The windows I want was all on the 500gb wd drive but now it's seen as just a data drive like it never had a bootable windows on it, yet it has all of windows on it I believe which I tried to show in the screenshot 

Disk 2 is the SSD im looking at on another computer, this drive was used as the boot drive for my tower but after freezing then having to reconfigure the ram to get it to boot it no longer sees the SSD as a boot drive neither does any other pc i have at my disposal (all other pcs are windows 11 but bios doesnt read the device as a boot drive) 

Looks like verything should be there for it to have windows on it but the partition is no longer seen as a boot drive? Please help i may go run out and buy another 500gb ssd so that i can make a clone of it then run some operations on the cloned drive

On 11/25/2022 at 9:04 AM, HenrySalayne said:

Elaborating on what @GoodBytes already said:

The Sony WF-1000XM4 have two means of setting the volume: via bluetooth and on the headphones themselves. You probably haven't set the volume on the headphones. Use the app to configure one of the buds for volume control and then tap until you hear the chime indicating volume is set to max. Then you can configure it to anything you wish and just keep using bluetooth volume control.

Hope this helps. If you max out the volume via bluetooth and on the headphones themselves and it's still not enough, you should be worried about your hearing.

On 11/23/2022 at 10:26 AM, GoodBytes said:

I have them, and they can be very loud.

Are you sure your phone doesn't have a volume limiter enabled?

Are you sure your music player doesn't have its volume set to lower?

If you use Android phone, note that the equalizer of the OS lowers the volume. Use the Sony app equalizer instead. Make sure Android one is disabled.

So i ended up getting the Galaxy Buds pro 2, Jabra 85t, and the Sennheiser mtw3 and so far my conclusion is that the Sony's were not loud enough. I had tried all the above suggestions and more and for the price of the earbuds the volume level wasn't acceptable for me. The galaxy buds pro 2 are slightly louder but the highs were too loud compared to the bas and mid-tones, compared to the Jabra 85t the bass and mid-tones were much better for me and the Jabra 85t seem to be the loudest out of the 4 earbuds. Wanting more clarity in the mid-tones and highs i bought the Sennheiser Momentum true wireless 3s and as i expected it does have more clarity, instrument separation and detail compared to the Jabra's at the expense of just a tiny bit of volume. Now i will be testing both to see which pair i decide to keep, I don't blare music at %100 all the time but in the gym when i want to hit my heaviest set for less than a minute i want the amount of volume i want and paying $200 for a pair that leaves me wanting more volume isn't acceptable for me. If anyone is interested in more id be happy to share. Also the galaxy buds pro 2 only come with the set of ear tips that are on there their like a medium/small which for $200 is unacceptable 

Need to get new buds for the gym, previously had the Jabra elite 75t and even then wanted just a little but more volume. Back when I had the semi wireless jbird x2s I was happy with the amount of volume I could get out of them. I'm going to return the sony wf-1000xm4 and am wondering what anyone would suggest that pumps out just a little more sound.

Tbh I dont Care at all about any other features, just want them loud, sounding good and to be low profile enough to fit under a motorcycle helmet. Was looking at trying the galaxy buds pro or the galaxy buds pro 2.

3 minutes ago, vWORMHAT said:

B550 gaming plus by msi

3080

5900x 

 

The 5900x was overheating and had made my pc crash acouple times so I decided to repeat the cooler. Took it off, applied new thermal paste and it booted up but temperatures were still hitting 90c almost immediately under load and was around 60c just at idle. And my cin3bench score was 200-400 lower than what other people were getting online stock. Another odd thing is that feeling the cooler I couldn't feel any heat around it anywhere. So I resent again and now the system won't post with either of the FUMA 2 cpu fans plugged into the cpu fan header. But will post with a case fan plugged into the fan header. Any idea what's going on?

 

Tldr-Pc no longer posts and displays cpu debug light when trying to plug either of the cpu cooler fans into the cpu fan header . Cooler FUMA 2

My ass now it works, I just kept swapping them, sorry everyone , but will report back on Temps now... also I swear I spent hours trying different things before giving up and posting

B550 gaming plus by msi

3080

5900x 

The 5900x was overheating and had made my pc crash acouple times so I decided to repeat the cooler. Took it off, applied new thermal paste and it booted up but temperatures were still hitting 90c almost immediately under load and was around 60c just at idle. And my cin3bench score was 200-400 lower than what other people were getting online stock. Another odd thing is that feeling the cooler I couldn't feel any heat around it anywhere. So I resent again and now the system won't post with either of the FUMA 2 cpu fans plugged into the cpu fan header. But will post with a case fan plugged into the fan header. Any idea what's going on?

Tldr-Pc no longer posts and displays cpu debug light when trying to plug either of the cpu cooler fans into the cpu fan header . Cooler FUMA 2

Thanks everyone for the replies! 

17 minutes ago, igormp said:

The 1070ti doesn't support nvlink, but rather the regular SLI which is deprecated. Also, no, the memory won't be combined like that.

 

With that said, using more than 1 GPU will allow blender to split the job between both, so you could give it a try.

The drop in bandwidth should affect performance that much, maybe a 10% penalty or so.

Does this mean. Of I had a scene taking up 10gb vram than I would most likely get an error since the 1070ti only has 8gb vram. Instead of pooling the memory it would just copy it to both?

I have a 5900x, just upgraded to a 3080 and now I need to upgrade the psu from 650w to either 850w or 1000w. If I get 1000w then I could put the 1070 ti in there. And maybe get a nvlink (needed so blemder could use all 20gbs of vram right?) But this means the 3080 would run at x8.

I know the 1070ti wouldn't speed things up that much but the vram would be very helpful for my complex scenes.

1000w psu is around $50 more than the 850w, and an nvlink is around around $120

So if the nvlink is needed that would be $170 in order to use the 1070 ti in the PC is it even worth it considering the price?

So 1070ti + 3080  at x8 pcie speeds for blender yay or nay?

Is an nvlink bridge needed to access the vram in the 1070? 

On 7/18/2022 at 6:34 AM, ewitte said:

Interesting I have nearly the same and never had any issues with the RM750x.  

3080 FTW3

5900x

all 4 memory channels filled

4 fans

2 hdds

4 nvme ssds

d5 pump

The most I ever pushed it to based of UPS load was 651W.  I did upgrade to a 1000W G6 but that is in preparation for a 4080 or 4090.

For gaming its fine, but in blender looking at my ups ive seen it go close to around 620w, an upgrade would be more peace of mind but for games and idling its fine

You don't need a 3080, cards like that and higher are really for pro gamers but even more its for creators who will actually utilize its power. I have a 1070 ti in one of my machines and it handles medium to high settings around 50 to 60fps and is great for a casual gamer. So I'd imagine the 3060 would be more than plenty if you really wanted to go with the 3000 series.

7 hours ago, xg32 said:

not worth it at all since the evga hybrid is back in stock for 800 and there was a msi one for 740 on newegg, unless you specifically want asus.

Wanted the asus one because I heard it's pretty good and has some good vrms and the card was pretty good. But also it's the 12gb version

2 minutes ago, RONOTHAN## said:

If this was a 3070, I'd just get the used one. For G6X cards and how hot the memory runs on those when mining, they're a lot more risky. Odds are the card is a mining card, and you would be hoping that the miner knew what they were doing with managing memory temps. Unless you're getting a 3080 for less than $500 I would just go for a new card instead personally. 

Thanks didn't know that!

Looking to upgrade to a 3080, currently have a 1070 ti, I use the PC for rendering in blender and more but wondering if I kept the 1070 ti if it would benefit in anyway to like run other displays?

1.How could you use the 1070 ti, or would it just be a waste and it's better to sell it

2. How much do 1070 ti go for nowadays?

Just now, forcadell_pau said:

I'd personally go for the new one, you never know what second hand gpus have been thru

What I was thinking, thanks for the reply and the confirmation of what I was thinking lol

3 hours ago, ewitte said:

650W is going to be extremely borderline if undervolted.  I've gone over 650W but was really pushing it.  Another thing is you need one that handles transient surges not all power supplies will.  I had that issue with my original Seasonic and it was an 850W. Never had issues with the RM750x though.

 

EDIT: You  wouldn't damage anything if it can't handle it you will get reboots, BSOD, etc but nothing will get damaged unless you melt cables.

Thanks for the reply! Thinking of buying the card and just a new psu like 1000w for the headroom

3 hours ago, Abyssal Radon said:

Dude, be careful, 650W will not be enough for power spikes that the 3000 series are known for. I use a 5950X and 3080 combo, and my 1000W PSU gives me barely any wiggle room for an increase of power spikes.

Careful? I thought if the psu couldn't keep up it just shuts everything down to protect itself? Is there really a chance of damaging anything but the psu?

3 hours ago, Jeppes said:

What psu? Most quality ones should be fine with a 3080 as you only have a 5900X and not some oc'd 300W intel cpu.

I believe a evga 650 gold

43 minutes ago, mike_seps said:

Most partners recommend at least a 750w for the 3080, and most people suggest 850 in the real world. I personally wouldn't feel great with a 650w, but that's just me,

What's your cpu?

There's a used in good condition 3080 made by asus on Amazon for $700 vs new for $800 , is it worth the risk to save $100. I'm mostly concerned about the warranty on the used one and am guessing it's not worth the gamble if it's warranty is nearly done. Let me know your thoughts

Also sorry for posting so much but I appreciate every comment.  Thanks!