onionring

so they made a cat proof case...

both the hd558 and hd598 are identical, housing, drivers, cable , all , except there s a piece of foam added on the hd558 that you can remove. there might be some differences between the 2 sets after the mod but i wouldn t ever be able to notice it.

oups, o well my point was more about the relative energy involved so it isnt that bad, most people don t realise going 20% over (it s like an unwritten law here, even the cops wont give you a ticket) you re getting int 1.4x the crash...

i find it so funny whrn some one link a speed vs number of accident chart... of course more people crash when speeding, no one drives the speed limit,(unless they re drunk, that s how you spot them)... so yes stats are working guys... but here s something: the energy of a mass in moting is energy=(mass*speed^2)/2 so if you go 120kmh(75mph) instead of 100kmh(60mph) like the speed limit, there s 41% more energy to dissipate. or if you go 150kmh(90mph), you have 225% of the energy to dissipate... or 200kmh(120mph) you have 400% of the energy you get the idea... yes while cars seams to have improved in recent years, they haven t that much (and they shure as heck cant protect you from a 200kmh crash), with recent fuel consumptions concerns, all of the manifacturers started cutting materiels everywhere. (that includes energy absorption zones) just look at car towing capacity over the years, it keeps going down to prove they re reducing the quantity of materials used. and when you see how some people drive, i shure as heck don t want them going faster, they re having trouble at 100kmh already... but back to the topic, there s nothing more dangerous than not going with the flow of trafic, it might be written 60kmh min on the highway, but if you go at that speed you ll get rear ended in under a minute with all those tecting and driving with the cruise control set at 120kmh coming your way...

so if 300mb means power user? where does my 6gb (3g only) a month (idk with wifi) put me?...

the reason is that fast charging batteries causes LOT of heat to be produced versus slow charging. that product is probably 70% heatsink. if you want to fast charge a phone, you have to design the heat dissipation into the equabition there is a phone idk which one that comes with a 4.5 amp charger from the factory, so it s possible.

nop that wouldn t work, if the water temps get colder than ambient temp inside, condensation will happen, and water on cpu/gpu blocks isn t somethkng you want... and the surface are inside is way smaller than outside so there s no way it ll heat uo the fluid.

lol hyve technology to reduce turbulence and slingshot thing?!? WOW they rly DONT know anyhting about heat transfer. Turbulent air is about tons better than laminar flow ask any one who knows anythign about heat transfer also 10mm fan? you need static pressure to push thru a decent cooler, maybe this one doesn t need tho... I rly hope it s all useless marketting PR, because, if they did design somethign aroudn that they ll be VERY disapointed when they test it out,

nop that s not what i proposed, see my drawing, there s 2 pumps to better control the temperature of the fluid and the individual pumps would only be plugged in the conps when they re out of the main loop.

if the temperature of the water goes below ambient, the humidity in the air will condense on the pipes (like the windows of your car)but in this case the pipes and blocks will drip on your mobo/psu/cpu/gpu. what i proposed for individiual pc is to put the individual pump and reservoir as a unit that will only be put in when the comp is not on the main loop. so either quick connect 1 - cpu - gpu - quick connect 2 - quick connect 2 - indivial res - individual pump - individual rad - quick connect 1 or main loop in - quick connect 1 - cpu - gpu - quick connect 2 - quick connect 2 - main loop out so even if the pc is off liquid will flow thru but that won t have any negative what so ever... pressure regulators are quite reliable from my experience and there would only be 1 of them (since all comps loop are similar, the flow in each would be too) the regulator would only enable you to keep relatively constant flow when comps would be removed from the loop. (it would route excess water back to the res) putting two sets of rads is quite easy btw, it s only 2 valves (or even 1) but you could put more if you want to vent it for winter...

your solution has some problems.1. condensation: the water in the loop cannot go below ambient temperature inside the building than means, 25C (77F) (there s a safety margin here) so you need to control the flow thru the radiators independently from the flow to the pcs. 2. winter happens, which means if you use water, it will freeze.(the comps aren t always on) so you can either use car grade antifreeze (prestone) which isn t great for computer parts, use a water/water heat exchanger to separate pc water from the car antifreeze. use two sets of radiators one outside for summer and one for winter and antifreeze. now for the individual pumps in the computers, you could easily bypass them when plugged to the central cooling by putting the quick connects before and after the pump (quick connect out) (pump inlet-outlet) (check valve) (quick connect in) or since they want to put the computers as stand alone capable, you could put the cpu/gpu block on quick connects inside with the individual rad-pump-res on quick connects and a power hub, both of which will only be power when the compiter is out of the big loop. and the big loop just plugging to the gpu-cpu blocks. now to control the flow rate, you need a pressure regulator to control the pressure at the pc inlet manifold connection which will allow different numbers of pc running without a relatively constant flow

btw car antifreeze is rated at lower than -37C or even -64C, so it won t freeze in the loop (they re in BC, it doesn t rly get cold like the rest of Canada) http://prestone.com/products/antifreeze_coolant/product_list?select_region=1 BUT you don t want that fluid or any fluid at that temperature in computers blocks or rads. There s 2 solutions to this problem, A water-water heat exchanger, separating interior fluid from exterior one, or A second set of rad inside to serve as central heating for the house in the winter. (with pics) or The fans will also be a problem since the noctua fans they want to use are only rated IP52, it s only good for 15 degree dripping water, not rly rainfall like they need if they leave the radiator bare, they would need to make a kind of enclosure to use these fans. Or maybe if they have a shed/garage... they could put the rads in there with the pumps and avoid lots of problems this way...

the lighter your desk is the more it vibrates, if you have a really heavy one it will act as a shockmount Btw i got my blue snowball for 40$ at futureshop on sale, first time ever that something is cheaper there than anywhere else....

btw this wont work as you can t control of the temperature which will cause condensation 9 months of the year... even if you control the speed of the main pump, you ll kinda control the temperature of the system but the flow will become insufficient to feed the comps resulting in cavitation of the smaller pumps.