Alexb770

Basically any box would do, just make sure no form of moisture could get to it.
People have placed their PC parts everywhere, a lot of tech hoarders just put the parts on a shelf in a well ventilated room.
Try looking at some of tech hoarders videos on youtube, their parts still work even if they just store them on a wooden shelf.
Jays Two Cents have their GPUs on wall mounted displays, Linus also store his CPUs on a CPU plastic bin, only protected by a CPU casing to protect the pins.
 
And yes, you need to reapply thermal paste if it has been in contact with air for quite some time, it will dry out.

No, what's going to happen is that whenever you boot your computer you will have to decide which drive you want to boot from. Also any Windows updates will only be applied to the boot drive in use. You will have to run Windows update manually after rebooting to the other drive, I think, but Windows should know that its not updated and will update automatically and if not it needs to be done manually
 
The easiest thing to do is
1. Keep your old drive as the boot drive and format the new drive for use as storage.
2. Use the new drive as the boot device and format the old drive and use it as the storage drive.
 
If you do decide to go with either of these options, return the key as you don't need it, because you can transfer he old key to the new drive.
 

Front and side would be intake fans, and top and rear should be output fans.  6 intake + 4 output.  This should create a positive pressure and any additional air will leave via the venting on the rear of the chassis by the PCI slots.  

No, it's fine it's normal, it's not bad cables or anything.
 
The connector with the missing pins goes into the power supply.
The other connector pci-e 6 +2 goes into video card.
 
Most likely, on the power supply, the headers are the same as for EPS connectors (cpu power 8 pin) which are 4 x +12v wires in a row, 4 ground wires in the second row
As pci-e connectors have only 3 12v wires and 3 or 5 ground wires, it makes sense (and looks nicer) to have only 6 wires going to psu header.
 
This way on the power supply, they can have both CPU and PCI-e connectors look the same, and you can plug any cable in either connector, and allows for extra flexibility (ex have 2 cpu 8 pin cables, or have only 1 CPU cable and an extra pci-e cable)
 
Sense B was supposed to be a wire for sensing how much power video card consumes but pretty much no power supply ever implemented it, so both those extra pins are connected to ground, and it's just easier for the manufacturer to connector the two pins to a couple of the 3 ground wires coming from psu.
 
To be clear ... 
EPS is :
12v   12v   12v   12v      retaining clip at TOP row on motherboard side
GND GND GND GND
 
pci-e 6+2/8 is:
 
12v   12v   12v    | GND   retaining clip at BOTTOM row on video card side
GND GND GND | GND
 
 

Yea as long as they have the 4 mounting holes and the size that the case can fit i.e( don't try to put a 200mm fan in where a 120 should be) they are pretty universal
I'd reccommend lian lis sli uni fans if you aren't in the corsair scene already, mainly because I like the look of them and they are daisy chainable

Thanks, appreciate both of you 🙂

CR2032 is the battery size, like AA or D. (It's derived from the battery's physical size, 20mm in diameter and 32 tenths of a millimeter in thickness.)
 
Many companies make CR2032 batteries, and they're all basically the same.

As long as it's a 3V CR2032 it's fine. 

No problem, glad we could help you get it back up and running again. Best of luck!

Figured I'd respond to wrap this whole thing up, basically I got it working fine again but I don't really know how. I used your battery reset method and after a couple of tries it "just worked." GPU's perfectly fine too. I did notice that when I tried booting it with my case fan LEDs plugged in, it wouldn't work. After restarting the process of resetting the CMOS battery again, but this time with the LEDs unplugged, it worked. Just thought that was very strange since fan LEDs aren't very taxing from a power draw standpoint (maybe that trial was just coincidence?)
 
I've been able to turn the PC on and off freely without any trouble so far, but I'm not sure if I really fixed the issue (which like you and others said, is likely my PSU dying). Regardless, I'm just hoping it holds out till later this summer/fall when I do a proper rebuild. Thanks again for all the help 🙂

That's really sudden for the lights to kick off like that. 

Can you try something super basic? I am curious if it at least gets the PC to turn back on. 
 
-Unplug the power from the PSU
-Hold the power button on your case for 15-20 full seconds
-Plug the power back in and see if it turns on

PSU is probably shot

Reset motherboard BIOS first.

I'd reset the bios first and foremost. Otherwise classic signs of a dead PSU. I'd recommend testing or replacing that first before doing any drastic replacements.

Take the PSU out, try it with a FAN connected (the paperclip green&black method) or use a PSU tester.
 
Edit: bios is reset by removing the battery for 5 minutes.

Gotcha, was a long shot. Unfortunately it seems like a dead PSU then.
 
What we just did should clear your CMOS which would set your mobo back to factory defaults.

Unplug the powersupply from the wall, remove the CMOS battery from the motherboard(Silver circular battery usually under the GPU or towards the lower end of the mobo) and let sit for 5 minutes or so, or hold the power button for 20 to 30 seconds. Put the battery back in and try powering the system on again.

The CMOS won't clear unless they remove the CMOS battery and then do the steps you suggested, which OP did not do as they do not know how and it was not listed.

Depends on the board and battery, I've had a few systems I've worked on where if the battery is still at a decent level and it isn't removed holding the power button won't clear CMOS no matter how long you hold the button. I've just added it as a step to clearing the CMOS regardless when I'm doing it just in case.

That is just dust. Try it with the GPU unplugged again. If it works again it's two possibilities. Either your PSU is bad and is not properly powering the system when the GPU is connected. Or you're GPU is dead and is causing the system to error. If the computer works again with the GPU removed I recommend hooking the GPU up in a separate system to test it if possible. That will determine if the GPU is the culprit if it causes that system to do the same thing. If the separate system works with your GPU then I would say the PSU is bad and needs to be replaced. Those are your next steps for testing, so if you have another system to test great otherwise hopefully you know someone who does. If you can't find another system to test your GPU in you will most likely need to take it into a shop or roll the dice on just purchasing a new PSU and hoping for the best.

You're good...don't worry about this.

Thank you very much sir, your SATA port fix did the trick  Not sure which port I put into, but I don't really care 
 
As for the Ethernet, all i had to do was go to Gigabyte's site and download the drivers. Everything is working and I can finally sleep

If you're using the top M.2 slot, SATA ports 4 and 5 will be turned off (those are the bottom two SATA ports I believe). Have you confirmed these drives don't work in any of the SATA ports?
Perhaps the ethernet thing is related to drivers, but usually you would at least see a network card in device manager..

When you go to the Network and Sharing center within Control panel, what connections are shown? 
 
If your HDD is not in bios then either of the cables are faulty. Is the HDD powering on? Is SATA cable correctly inserted to both Mobo and Hdd?