andydabeast

I have a full size build in a compact scratch built case. the volume is 1 square foot.

Also, See the thermal imaging here. This is for the G1 card but nearly the same as mine. The backplate gets to 60C, but that is heat that came through a 1/8" thermal pad and 1/16" of plastic. http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/gigabyte_geforce_gtx_1080_g1_gaming_review,10.html

That would be nice but I don't have the space and the cost wouldn't be worth it when I already had those $5 heatsinks laying around. EK recommends you use their backplate so I imagine that would have solved it. Theirs is metal and this one is plastic. All the dozens of threads on the internet about how backplates are aesthetic and don't help much are not true in all cases though. I have proved that.

The problem is solved by using the stock backplate with added heatsinks. I will never know if it was the line of VRM or the three memory modules that needed the cooling, but it works now.

I'll have pics tonight but my tubing kept hitting the heatsinks and now they won't stick on fully, so I am unsure if it was a success or not. The card is close to the motherboard chipset so with a 1/2" thick piece of cardboard I will let the card and heatsinks rest on the cardboard to keep the heatsink in place. I NEED to know if this fixes it. Then I will see how sticky the thermal pads are from the original backplate and do one of two things- A. put the original backplate back on and attach the heatsinks to the bacplate. It is plastic, but it does something. B. get a sheet of aluminum and cut a square to cover the same area as the thermal pads from the stock backplate. Then attach stock pads and new metal and my heatsinks to the back of the card. This would also allow me to not have to take out all the waterblock screws. I am not sure if I have any metal laying around so I would have to buy some. Thoughts?

I guess I should head over the Gamer's Nexus and learn more about PCB components. Memory controller load was throttling in sync with the TDP throttling. What does the memory controller look like?

In this video here he has the G1 gaming model but he just puts his backplate right back on... It covers two parts, the three memory modules farthest away from the IO, and one row of VRM that are ON the back of the board. I think this is the key. I don't need to cool the back of the board, I have a whole row of power delivery chips back there!!

Yea, could have been open box, maybe used for 2 years then RMA, who knows. I had a fantastic time buying refurb tho. It was literally free for me with the re-sale.

if your usb thing is only 1x then I assume so but cannot say for sure. those risers are made for mining... not sure how much data transfer there is with that.

maybe I had a one-in-a-million unit, but I got a H110 refurb off Newegg, used it for a year, then sold it for the same price of $50 on craigslist because I upgraded to a custom loop. Sometimes they just run forever. I had the pump at 80% though because it was noisy at 100%. That helped with the longevity a little.

To run a graphics card, no. That is only 1x. You want at least 8x for a full graphics card. For a 1x card of some kind, probably.

My riser is non-powered and off brand, purchased before the big companies started making them. How could it be the riser if turning on a fan fixes it? Also, this happened less before I put on the block. I also had this riser with another card and that one was fine.

I verified with my amazon order history that my GPU is the GV-N1080WF3OC-8GD model. The block I bought is EK-FC1080 GTX G1 - Nickel. The below page is the EK page where I saw that this block is compatible with the card. My card is the bottom one. https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109831373#DB_ I took a picture of my PCB right after removing the stock heatsink. I grabbed it from Facebook, cropped it, and put it under the image of the G1 PCB from EK site. They look the same to me, which points to user error in block installation. I do know that the plastic backplate my card shipped with had thermal pads on the back of the VRM... To transfer heat to the plastic? Given this information do yall think I should just try to reinstall the block or put a heatsink or backplate on the back of the VRMs? I happen to have some heatsinks that are VRM size so maybe I just spend $10 on amazon for some thermal double sided adhesive tape, slap those heatsinks on the back and see if it works with no fan.

I do know the exact model of the card and block, so I will get pictures ready and post back here. Basically, I will exhaust all my options before removing the block. The GPU is vertically mounted in a scratch build and I need to remove the CPU block in order to get the GPU out. Not an easy task. At least it's not hardline. I have been dealing with this issue for over a month, and yall found [what we think is] the issue in minutes. Fantastic community.

The card is Windforce which EK says visually fits the G1 gaming block. The stock cooler had a plastic backplate with thermal pads on the back of the VRM. I also really thought that a full cover block would cool it properly. I put the thermal pads onto the VRM myself. Because the fan pointed at the back of the card being on or off produces a direct, noticeable, repeatable difference in performance I think that a backplate with thermal pads would solve it. How would I even know after taking the block off if the VRM's were properly being touched? I have flexible tubing. I could take the block off without draining the loop? Cryofuel in there...