YellowJersey

It's pronounced "cheranna" not "Toronto."

Are you looking at doing wide angle or deep sky objects (like nebulae, galaxies, etc)? What I recommend will depend on what kind of night sky stuff you're looking to do.

I'm currently watching last Friday's WANShow where they're talking about labs. One of the things that LTT and many other reviewers don't really comment on is the value proposition of various pieces of hardware as prices are constantly changing and a product that is bad value at launch may be good value in the future if you find it on sale. So the idea is that you select the part, input the price (like if you find a hell of a black friday deal) and it spits out some kind of value metric (like FPS-per-dollar?). Asking on forums and doing your own research can be time consuming in the case of the latter and frustrating in the case of the former.

 Anyway, just a thought. I imagine it's probably a lot more complicated than it sounds, especially given that every, say, GPU has a bazzilion variants from various board partners.

1 hour ago, Bombastinator said:

Ah.  So atx case then. The 6600 isn’t very long, and the nh-d15s isn’t exceptionally tall.  One way to think of case width for cooler height is what size exhaust fan can it hold? There’s 80, 92, 120, and 140.  5

the cooler fan has to sit “over” the back panel, which is a standardized height.  So you can get a rough estimate just by looking at the back fan grill.  I suspect cases with 120mm exhaust fans will fit tight, 140mm will fit loose.  There are more or less two kinds of cases: isolation and airflow.  Isolation cases were the quieter cases back when mechanical hard drives (which chuckle to themselves and burp and stuff) were common.  SSDs made fans the loudest thing in cases, so few fans were better, so airflow (the other kind) if you got mechanical drives an isolation case by be quiet, for example, might be your quietest option.  If you don’t, then an airflow case with as few fans as possible spinning as slowly as possible will produce the least noise.

Yeah, I don't really understand the tempered glass side panel trend. It's hard finding cases without glass. I also find it weird that there are so few cases where you can mount a fan on the side for a GPU intake. You'd think that would be ideal for cooling.

6 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Ah.  So atx case then. The 6600 isn’t very long, and the nh-d15s isn’t exceptionally tall.  One way to think of case width for cooler height is what size exhaust fan can it hold? There’s 80, 92, 120, and 140.  5

the cooler fan has to sit “over” the back panel, which is a standardized height.  So you can get a rough estimate just by looking at the back fan grill.  I suspect cases with 120mm exhaust fans will fit tight, 140mm will fit loose.  There are more or less two kinds of cases: isolation and airflow.  Isolation cases were the quieter cases back when mechanical hard drives (which chuckle to themselves and burp and stuff) were common.  SSDs made fans the loudest thing in cases, so few fans were better, so airflow (the other kind) if you got mechanical drives an isolation case by be quiet, for example, might be your quietest option.  If you don’t, then an airflow case with as few fans as possible spinning as slowly as possible will produce the least noise.

Any cases you'd recommend then? I'm thinking 2 or 3 120mm intake fans on the front and a 120mm exhaust fan on the back. Maybe a 120mm exhaust fan on the top-rear, but I don't think that'll be necessary given my cpu/gpu combo not kicking out that much heat. (I'm keen on 120mm fans since I already have a bunch. I'm really liking the Silent Wings 3 120mm fans I got). I generally try and buy things like coolers, cases, etc with a view to be able to carry as much forward to a future build as possible, so I usually buy something that's a bit more than I currently need to give myself room to grow into something more powerful (the dread "F" word)

I can just imagine the looks on the MSI reps' faces. Alex, you are the king of backhanded compliments.

3 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

GN seems to do almost entirely atx and eatx cases.  If your motherboard is that size, that’s a good place to look.   There is also matx and itx though. There have been a few Matx or itx cases like that cat one on GN, but gn’s focus seems to be largely on those cases.   On the bright side an atx case will hold matx or itx, whereas the reverse is not true.  Myself I just don’t use enough pcie cards to justify atx.

 

matx is generally ever so slightly cheaper for the same thing.  If you wind up with a matx board there are some really good very cheap cases as well that are smaller.   They won’t hold an atx motherboard but if you don’t HAVE an atx motherboard to put in them then it’s pointless.  So first pick your board and cooler.  Once we know what we have to house then a case is easy.

Mine's an ATX board

4 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

Well, I could have gotten away with using the 4790K another year or two as I felt it was time to build a new PC. My dad though had been using a PC from 2006/7 till about 2020..has some AMD Phenom processor in it and finally got a hand-me-down from me before finally upgrading him last year to a PC I built for him. 

Keep in mind that my desire to get as much out of a computer as possible borders on psychotic  XD

38 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

 

 

My 4790K lasted about 4 years before needing to upgrade. I plan on upgrading my 5950X in about 2025/2026 depending on if something else goes in the system. GPUs though have been advancing like crazy since I was on my 4790K, but I think we're at a point now that you have to wait longer to really see a difference. 

 Got you beat, I was using a laptop with an i7 35xx (don't remember the exact model number) from 2012 until October. Got 10 years out of that thing and only in the last few months did the performance really feel like a limitation. I'm hoping to get around 4-8 years out of my new rig with a GPU upgrade somewhere in the middle (currently running a 6600XT that's doing just fine). Even managed to sell that old laptop for $300 CAD; she served me well.

I'm in the market for a new case, though I'm in no hurry to buy. I currently run a 5700X (cooled w/ a Noctua NH-D15S) and a 6600 XT (on an ATX board) and am generally a solid "medium man" in terms of specs. My monitor is a 1440 100Hz ultrawide. I'm not particularly interested in water cooling. Looking for a full tower or mid tower in terms of size (though I'm willing to consider anything that has good airflow/thermals/noise and can fit my NH-D15S)

 I was watching Steve from GN and he had a few "best cases of the year" videos, so this is what I've based my prospects on. I'm currently torn between the Corsair 4000D airflow (currently $140 CAD at Memory Express) and the NZXT H7 Flow (currently $170 CAD at MemEx) (I'm also considering the Fractal Design Pop Air, currently 120 CAD at MemEx ). I'm looking for good airflow and thermals as well as something that's reasonably quiet. I also have three BeQuiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm fans that I'd be carrying over from my current case.

 Any reason why I should choose one over the other? At my specs, does it really matter? Any other cases I should be looking at? any thoughts? I'd like to keep it under $200 CAD.

 

This is one of the reasons why I don't chase the cutting edge: there's always something (potentially better/cheaper) just around the corner. Buying the previous generation just as newest generation is coming out (or slightly after) strikes me as being the sensible approach as, by that point, it's a known quantity, especially when the new stuff has a new socket. Got myself a 5700x on black Friday and I'm pretty happy with it. I'm glad I don't need the high end cutting edge stuff.

11 minutes ago, C2dan88 said:

What does

sudo systemctl status ufw

show after you disable the vpn

Sorry, I'm super tired (it's nearly 5:30 AM where I am) and I've been up all night so I'm probably not the most coherent. I put in "sudo systemctl status ufw" and it spits this out: (I get this after rebooting and vpn is not open, while vpn is open, and after I close vpn)

(out of curiosity, I got the exact same message on my other machine running Mint 21.1 MATE. On my other machine, I also tried "sudo ufw status verbose" and and it spits out "status: active" even when the VPN is on, so my other machine does not have this issue; status of ufw is always active. I don't know why it's different on this machine)

5 minutes ago, C2dan88 said:

What does

sudo systemctl status ufw

show after you disable the vpn

Status: "inactive"

 It wants me to manually enable ufw after closing the VPN.

 

3 minutes ago, C2dan88 said:

 

You should be running check-requirements as root

sudo /usr/share/ufw/check-requirements

 

Ok, I've made some progress. You're right. So, what appears to be happening is that ufw firewall turns on on system startup like it's supposed to. However, I use a VPN, which disables ufw (presumably using iptables instead). However, when I turn off my VPN, it doesn't turn ufw back on (it used to, but now it doesn't)

I'm having trouble with a recent upgrade to Linux Mint 21.1 MATE. I noticed that the ufw firewall is always turned off; even if I turn it back on, it will turn itself back off.

History:

I went to the GUI for ufw and noticed it was toggled off, so I toggled it on. However, a little later, I checked again and it was turned off.
I've attached a screenshot of my adventures in the terminal, but nothing seems to be working. I even tired a clean install of the OS itself, and it didn't fix the issue (I'm not having this issue on any other machines running 21.1 MATE.

 Any ideas? I just want my firewall to be on!


***Edit: SOLUTION: I just went back to 20.3 and I don't have this problem anymore. Couldn't figure it out in 21.1.

 

It's this kind of corporate crap that leads me to intentionally be a generation behind. Got a Ryzen 5000 series CPU and an RX 6000 card for a bargain right when the new stuff was coming out.

7 hours ago, RollyShed said:

Cateye Tomo XC CC-ST200. The only problem is you will need to keep replacing the battery... every 5 or 10 years. A CR1620.

And no heart rate monitor. Why have one?

I think having a bike computer and then a separate heart rate monitor would probably make more sense.

21 hours ago, Lurking said:

You probably should tell what you want it to do. Just speed, or the whole list if features inc. bio data and navigation?

 

For one person a $20 computer is perfect, the next person needs a $1000 computer and sensor array   

I just noticed he wants a heart rate monitor. For an all in one with HR, that'll cost you. It probably makes more sense to get a stand alone heart rate monitor and an inexpensive basic computer.

Since when do you "own" an apple product?

Mine's too big to fit on my desk, so I have it sitting on top of a cardboard box about 30cm off the floor so that the power supply isn't sucking up dust off the carpet.

12 hours ago, Monkey Dust said:

I can't see even a few having access to wild luxury, how are they going to make and maintain fortunes with only a small number of potential customers?

 

If you think about how the richest people & businesses today achieved their wealth, it was by either selling directly to a huge number of people who are poor to somewhat affluent (by western standards), or selling to other businesses who do.

Simple: trade amongst themselves. Extreme wealth inequality is actually the standard throughout human history. I could see them walling themselves off from the rest of the world and letting us rot, Elysium style.

58 minutes ago, Monkey Dust said:

It is an interesting question, how do we structure the economy in a world where human labour has little or no value.

 

Currently, if employment falls, demand for goods and services fall with it. AI, along with advancing robotics, has the potential to obliterate employment forever. And with it, demand under our current economic model, obviously including the products and services AI & robotics will be providing.

 

 

CGP Grey did a great video addressing that question.

In short, we can either crate a utopia where robots do all our work for us and we can do whatever we want, or it'll result in a select few having access to luxury beyond your wildest imagination while 99% of the human population lives in abject poverty. Gee, I wonder which one is more likely?

Welcome to the economy of the future. Humans need not apply.

I can't really recommend one as I've only ever used two, and both of them are super old. I find with a bike computer, you buy one and keep it forever (the one I'm currently using was purchased in 2008). I just took a look at my local bike shop and you can get a pretty basic one for around $50 CAD. I noticed that the expensive ones all have GPS built in. If you don't need GPS, then you should be able to get one for a much more reasonable price.

At the very least, you should get one that includes:
-current speed
-trip distance
-odometer
-clock / ride-time

(based off this listing on my bike shop's website: https://www.thebikeshop.com/product/bontrager-gotime-179294-1.htm

Everything else is a "nice to have" IMHO. For example, mine tells me the incline of any uphill/downhill as well as max incline and average incline as well as the temperature, which can be handy. (I know of some areas that look flat but actually have a slight incline, so it's nice to know that my drop in pace is due to that, not just because I'm crap) 

 Just keep in mind what I said above: You buy one and keep it forever. So it may make sense to buy something that has more features than you need since you might want those features later on.

 Feel free to DM me if you'd like further help in tracking one down.

One more thing, some of them are wireless, meaning that there's a transmitter taking a reading from a magnet attached to a spoke. I've found that my data can go haywire when I'm cycling around cars that have their radios on or there are other wireless signals around. I know this because I'll be stopped at a red light and all of a sudden my bike computer says I'm doing 99kmph! So having a wired computer where the reader and the handlebar mount and connected via a wire would probably avoid those situations.