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Laxmantim

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  1. Laxmantim
    thanks for the feedback, I didn't realize that this was a bad idea. If it isn't a crazy long explanation would someone mind explaining why this a bad idea? I'm trying to learn more about how to use linux and I'm just curious why this considered "bad form". also I would honestly prefer to run it in a VM but i was having significant issues getting USB pass-through to work in virtual box so I decided to try dual booting, but it sounds like if i want to dual boot i should just use debian or ubuntu then? I will try that and hopefully things work better that way.
  2. Laxmantim
    I am trying to dual boot Kali Linux with windows 10 (already installed) on my acer predator helios 300 laptop. When I try and run the installer it gets stuck every time at the message "could not mount installation media" and something about the CD not being inserted in the drive even though I am booting off of a 128GB sandisk flash drive. I used rufus-3.8 to create the bootable USB and have tried multiple different configuration options when setting up the USB in rufus and they all fail in the same way (could not mount installation media). I have already cleared space on both the SSD and hard drive to make room for the new OS, 40GB on the SSD and 100GB on the hard drive. I have tried searching forums for a solution to this problem but all of the solutions that worked for other people didn't work for me. I also tried installing kali on my desktop which made it further in the process but then got stuck in a loop about the drive partitioning which is where I gave up. Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated, I am currently a junior in college and hoping to pursue cyber-security as a career and right now not being able to use kali is seriously holding me back.
  3. Laxmantim
    Update: couldn’t find Cstates in the bios but there was one setting (can’t remember what it was called sorry) that I changed that allowed the clock to fluctuate between 4.7-5.0 so that’s progress, however I was only able to get the VCore down to 1.355, and I had to bring the cache speed down from 4.8->4.7 because I was getting blue screens in Aida 64 stress test, I noticed the north bridge was only running at 4.7GHz before I slowed down the cache could that slower speed be contributing to instability and is it possible to adjust that? I would like to speed the cache back up but right now the system is stable at 5GHz 4.7cache and 1.355vcore
  4. Laxmantim
    Thanks for responding so quick, I believe you’re correct that it must be the VRMs or mossfets because nothing else should be seeing enough power to hit temps like that, however I have pretty great airflow around the MOBO, I will attach a picture of it, the top rad has 3x140 fans pulling air into the case and the rear can and PSU are running exhaust, I got paranoid and removed the side panel and leaned a box fan against it and never saw temps get out of control like that but did notice the forest had my CPU flat out at 95+% usage while playing which surely isn’t helping, I will try dialing back the voltage to the cpu as well and see if that helps
  5. Laxmantim
    Here is a picture of HWMonitor with the forest running but minimized
  6. Laxmantim
    I was playing “the forest” and noticed my fans were getting REALLY loud which takes a lot because I have a full water loop which usually keeps temps pretty well managed, (8700k @5GHz and a 1080Ti @2GHz) the system is reasonably overclocked but nothing a 280mm front rad and 420 top rad shouldn’t be able to handle, but when I opened HWMonitor and left it running in the background I found that the MOBO temp sensor called TMPIN5 hit a max of 127C or 260F which is INSANE, does anyone have ANY idea what might be causing this? I really want to fix this before I fry something but I feel like it has to be an error because if something actually got that hot it probably would have already died. MOBO is an MSI Z370 Gaming M5. Also for what it’s worth with HWMonitor open on another display and playing the game I have not observed temps go above 63C
  7. Laxmantim
    Thanks for the help! Regarding the voltage I will aim to step it down closer to the 1.242 you mentioned, that seems a lot safer, you mentioned using offset mode, is that any different than just adjusting the voltage? And if so what is the benefit? Also I have speedstep and EIST enabled but I haven’t seen C-states in the bios anywhere maybe that’s what I’m missing. I’ll give that a shot and post and update in a couple hours, thanks again for your help!
  8. Laxmantim
    Fairly new to overclocking but I was able to get my 8700k up to 5.0GHz on my MSI Z370 Gaming M5 motherboard. It might go further but that’s plenty fast for me plus the BIOS seemingly automatically upped the vcore to 1.392v when I set the multiplier to 50 which it didn’t warn me about at all and I didn’t even discover until I went back into the bios days later. My 2 questions are: 1.392 seems unnecessarily high even if it is watercooled, and 2 is it possible to make it behave like it did out of the box where it idles at 3.7GHz and a significantly lower voltage but turbos up to 5, because even when I set the turbo multiplier to 50 it still idles at 5GHz on the desktop with just hardware monitor open and very minimal background processes.
  9. Laxmantim
    Can you post a picture of your BIOS overclocking settings? You may have accidentally clicked and changed something because 1.47 is extraordinarily high especially if you are running stock speeds and not overclocking also there was an issue around the time the 8700K came out with asus boards where the default setting had the cpu cranked WAY up compared to other mobo manufacturers, maybe something similar happened with your board?
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