Mavflight09

Its an open case 

@aggressivetjaws
A Windows power plan setting that disables all of the C states is what causes this problem. 
 
If you run ThrottleStop, you will probably see that when idle, your CPU is spending 100.0% of its time in the C0 state.
 

 
Most CPU cores should enter the C1 state or a deeper low power C state when they have nothing to do. 
 
To fix this problem, open a command window with Admin privileges and enter these commands.
 
powercfg setacvalueindex SCHEME_CURRENT SUB_PROCESSOR IDLEDISABLE 0 powercfg s SCHEME_CURRENT  
After doing that, power consumption and idle temperatures will drop like a rock and the Task Manager Processes tab will not report 100% anymore. Enabling the C states allows a 10850K to drop over 120W and 30°C almost instantly. Everything else is exactly the same as the first screenshot. 
 

 
If this does not solve your problem, open up Power Options and press the "Restore plan defaults" button. Hopefully that will fix the hidden power plan settings. 
 

 
Check to see if you are running the latest BIOS version. Avoid using any MSI control software. 

Hurting the GPU? I would like to see that lol

"blow it back into the case for the GPU to reuse" ??? 
its almost like u dont understand the airflow pattern in a pc case 

I would suggest mounting your old 360mm aio back to the cpu and see what temps are like first.
Even if it doesn't fit in the case just lay it outside for a quick test.
If temps are fine with the 360mm then you can rule the 280mm aio as being defective.
This is a good point but OP said they remounted it twice so it would be kinda hard to get it wrong 3 times + you can check your thermal paste spread from the last mount.

I think I'm leaning towards a pump issue.

Connect it to something.

I actually had 3 H115i extremes, the first was new but the pump died, the second was a refurb from corsair for the first one, then I bought another off amazon to test if the refurb was bad. 
 
In my very basic testing there was no difference between the refurb and the brand new one off of amazon, so I would assume that the AIO is good. 
 
Yeah, I don't plan on ever doing it again, it was just a test to see what would happen. Apparently a whole lot of drying.
 
I don't because in Gamer's Nexus's testing re lidding the cpu apparently removes some of the benefit from delidding in the first place, but maybe it helps longevity? At least if your case it appears that it has done so. 
 
I mean I think I did a good job, here is a little mini album of me delidding my 8700k: https://imgur.com/a/lyF7VR0
 
Note that those pictures show me using a custom copper IHS, but I returned that since it gave worse temperatures than the stock intel IHS.

First of all, FRC does not add more bits.  It's still an 8 bit panel.  That means every subpixel can be between 0 and 255 in brightness (as an integer).  FRC means that if you want to display something between 7 and 8, for example (ie, something more precise than 8 bit will allow), you would flash between 7 and 8 with every refresh, thus simulating an average of 7.5.  This is better than 8 bit at reducing banding, but you may notice this flickering which (subjectively) might be worse, so which is actually superior depends.  A true 10 bit display would simply display 7.5 directly, since it could go from 0 to 1024, or in another way of thinking, 0 to 255 but in increments of 0.25 instead of 1.

Yes it will solve your issue, just be sure to get an interface with 48v phantom power if your mic needs it.
 
I have a UMC202HD and I can talk without any problem and there is no difference between taking off my headphones and talking vs just talking with the "direct monitor" on.

Ok, cooling is a topic I could talk about for hours, so please stop me if I go overboard
The question of 280 vs 360 is pretty interesting in a few different ways:
 
1: Cooling Capacity
1.1 Background:
As you probably know a good way to think of cooling is in terms of little heat packages flowing like cars through traffic. If you want to cool say 90W from a CPU, you can imagine 90 cars (á 1J) coming out of your CPU every second. They need to move through the heat spreader, the cold plate, the water, the metal of the fins and finally into the air. The more area they move through the easier the heat can move, think of adding more lanes to a road. Some materials are easier to move through than others, think of aluminium as an asphalt and Intel's TIM as a dirt road. The final thing is the temperature difference; when the heat cars need to move through a thin slice of material (or from one to another) think of their speed as depending on the difference in temperature between the two ends (and the material). This means that for every meter of heat transfer through a given object you need more temperature difference with the increase being linea. Fun Fact: heatpipes or the water in your loop would be like a road that is also a conveyor belt.
 
1.2 What that actually means to your case:
When you compare two radiators, you need to think of the cars moving from your water into the air, as the materials are pretty much the same, as is the power of your CPU, so only the area impacts the temperature significantly. And if you want to lower your thermals, you want to pick the radiator with more surface area.
 
1.3 Radiator areas
So, what is the area of a 120x360 or a 140x280 radiator? Might sound like a trick question, but it is important to remember that the radiator is more than a solid box, it has fins and those do the actual thermal transfer. So you would need to find out how many fins there are per cm² and how large each fin is. But I am pretty sure that, if you are comparing two radiators out of the same product line, that those are equal. So here, in this specific case, just multiplying 120mm x 360mm (= 432cm²) and 140mm x 280mm (= 392cm²) and find that the 360 should give you around 10% more surface area. And thus ~10% lower temperatures.
 
2: Fans
The larger the fan the slower the static pressure. Think about it this way: look at a small part of the fan at the rim, the force applied to it is the static pressure of the fan, this force is now directed along the fan blade, meaning a part of it tries to stop the fan from spinning. The torque the motor needs to overcome that force is just the force multiplied with the fan blade radius. So the longer the fan blades the less pressure the motor can sustain.
What does increase is the amount of air shuved through the radiator. I got quite intrigued by your description and did some maths. Turns out, comapring the two setups gives you the following equality:
A\cdot T\cdot (H + \frac{v}{c}(exp(-\frac{cH}{v})-1))= constant So, no matter what setup you are using, if the fans can manage the pressure (and if not it'd favor the smaller fans) area and temperature are still inversely proportional to each other.
 
The only thing that could make the 280 quieter at the same cooling performance is fan quality (assuming the radiators themselves have equal quality).
 
3: My suggestion
10% isn't a ton, but can ammount to 5K or so. If you care about performance deltas like that (ie you consider delidding) go for the 360, otherwise pick based on the spot you'd rather have the radiator
 
 
EDIT:
Dammit! When I saw LaTeX in the code box, I was filled with joy, that I could insert LaTeX into LTT forum posts, but at last, writing maths here still sucks

this is going to blow your mind but yeah , it still uses sli to run two gpu's

again if you aren't using an sli enabled program then gpu 2 isn't going to do anything

Yeah it will stain the copper, but staining is basically just cosmetic, and nothing a little isopropyl alcohol and a scouring pad can't remove in case you want to sell it. Here are some examples from my 8700k.
 
 

Hey, I have a Corsair Sttrafe wittth MX Blues and for the pastt month or so itt has been registering two t's somettimes when I type. Are tthere any ideas on what tto do tto fix this because as you can see, tthis is really annoying. I have ttried tthe repeatt delay stuff but that oddly seems tto work tttemporarily then itt justt goes back to this mess ;(

In my opinion, combination of both.
 
We all know that the cooling capacity of any watercooled system is dependent on radiator space, which the H100i v2 sports a 240 mm rad that is 30 mm thick. The same can be said for an air cooler, assuming that it has enough heat pipes to transfer the heat of the baseplate to the fin stack, The D15 has slightly more beefy heatsink array compared to the H100i v2 (towers for 2x 140mm that is ~50 mm thick? eyeballing) and so it does not surprise me at all that the H100i v2 could be outperformed by the D15 in noise normalized scenarios.
 
As for water cooling up gradually, that is really only a "problem" in that it gives a false sense of cooling, in that it takes longer for an AIO to reach equilibrium temperature than a tower cooler. So the fact that it takes longer for a watercooler to heat up (and then cool down) is not an issue that argues either way. The only problem is when people takes "load temperatures" after 2 minutes of load when the water is still equilibrating.

 
Therefore as you correctly pointed out above, the primary advantage of an AIO is to relocate the "finstack array" to somewhere more convinient than just above the CPU. This comes to play largely in SFF cases that can't even fit a Hyper212, such as in my Ncase M1 build recently. In this case, getting D15-like performance where the alternative would be a low-profile CPU cooler, the winner is clear.
 

 
If your case can fit a D15 and not have clearance issues with RAM or the 1st PCie Slot, I think the D15 wins over the standard 240 mm cooler - similar performance, lower cost, less parts to fail. Looks are also worth the money, so for those who prioritize that, this is fine.
 
I also don't have an intrinsic issue with the AIOs either however, I think some media outllets have made watercooling to be like magic, and people simply have unrealistic expectations of liquid coolers. A 120 mm AIO will perform on par with a low-mid range air cooler, a 240 mm AIO will performanc on par with a high end air cooler. The cost increase is accounted for more parts, higher rates of RMA and potential needs to cover for broken parts by the warranty.

Instead of fan splitters I would recommend using a Silverstone Fan Hub:
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531789069&sr=8-1&keywords=silverstone fan controller&tag=linus21-20
 
It takes 1, 4 pin pwm port and splits it into 8, 4 pin pwm ports. Unlike splitters it uses the 4 pin pwn signal but does not draw power from it, so you can run 8 fans off of the hub without overloading 1 pwn port on your Commander Pro. This is because it draws power instead from a sata power cable.

I wouldn't go to 1.5v, I'd call 1.4v the max I would go personally.
There isn't much performance to be gained, especially in real world scenarios, but if your interested my process is:
 
1. Set dram voltage to 1.35v
2. Set System Agent Voltage to 1.15, 1.2, or 1.25 (start at 1.15 and go up if unstable)
3. Increase memory speed
4. Increase timings until you get something that's stable.
 
Honestly it's a lot of trial and error to see what works.
On my set of ram 3466 fails to post at all, but 3400 posts fine, so that was my hard limit.
From there I increased timings and voltages (dram and System Agent Voltage) until it was stable.
 
Personally I don't mess with secondary and tertiary timings, mostly because I don't know what they mean.
 
For stability I use IntelBurnTest set to 8192mb.
 
If you want more information I followed this guide: https://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/785102-DDR4-RAM-overclocking-101-guide