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artuc

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Everything posted by artuc

  1. Yeah it all depends on what the actual issue is, viability of parts or rebuild in terms of what may be involved. Sometimes you may get lucky, impellor just jammed on something and is undamaged for example. Can often get brushes for motors that use them, seals, bearings and so on but if it's a fault with the motor itself usually replace the whole thing. Wouldn't go for 2nd hand unless you are competent in diagnosing and repairing as too many unknowns.
  2. Have you got the pinout for your ESP32 ? Are you on the 5V pin or VIN on your ESP. Should be on 5V. Also keep in mind how much you're trying to draw here for anything other than a very small strip. Anything more should be an external power supply (or say a usb c setup of some kind) From some very quick googling ESP32 are 3.3V logic level and I believe your strip is 5V, so could be problems there and may need a shifter. Also could be an underlying issue like something outright faulty.
  3. I have a Rode NT-USB on a desk mount going up and over the monitor in the corner and facing down. It's in front of my face but also slightly off to the side out of my monitor view and I can spin it to the side very easily out of the way completely. Have you considered a headset, do you use headphones? I have a modmic and the boom isn't in view at all, never felt it was in my face, even though it is. xD
  4. You can get black conformal coating, thinner than black epoxy for potting.
  5. artuc

    Realtek Audio

    Gotta start trying to narrow it down, what's shown in device manager ? Is it the audio driver from the motherboard support page ? Your headphones or speakers, are they working with other devices or known good ? Is it plugged into the correct port ? The onboard ports are usually more reliable to test from as less prone to possible issues with front panel and hookup.
  6. I use gas at my job as it's typically been better for the wire joins we do and the hot air is useful to do the heatshrink. I know battery has become better lately. For that board you're going to want to remove it to get better access remove the hot glue/epoxy carefully for that pad. Could try and do in situ but I would at least try and reorient it for better access. It is not a socket it's solder pads and likely through holes on the circuit board. I'd be of two minds as to advise to desolder what's there, it is the nicer way to do it bit can also do a bit of damage trying to desolder, especially if you can't get it hot enough quickly enough and don't have wick and a sucker. Probably easiest to add a bit more solder to the pad and pre-tin the wire. Somewhat rough but is easier for less critical fixes. Then dab some hot melt over the top when done if you like, possibly try and cable tie or anchor the wires somewhere so they can't pull at that connection.
  7. Unfortunately what you want doesn't really exist yet, especially with things like toys. USB PD will hopefully become mainstream and widely used and devices will magically just use one cable and can draw the voltage and current they need. You can get switchable power supplies, often from my experience though quality can be lower than fixed. The set voltage points and current may also not suit everything. You also run a slight risk that it is set incorrectly for a certain device you could do some damage, although you also run that risk with using the wrong plugpack that fits. (Someone on a site plugged a 15VDC plugpack into a usb hub and fried a cctv keyboard and jog wheel worth thousands) I'd tend towards just don't lose them and maybe have a few spare of the most crucial devices or common values with some overhead on amperage. Eg 12VDC 1-2A with a tip set can be handy to have in the parts bin/drawer, possibly a variable one as a spare or emergency use but I am not a huge fan. Also on a tangent, as the bubs grow up handy to have plenty of rechargeable AA/AAA for toys. Just be aware that some toys don't work as well with the slightly lower voltage so can be handy to have alkaline as well to test if you need.
  8. You can also get combs/bus bars for DIN terminals and make up a big block of terminals for your power without having to make little loops. Can also get fuse holders to suit which can be good if needing to isolate an overcurrent fault to one terminal. Another option is power distribution board usually with screw terminals and polyswitch or fuse protection. We use both methods.
  9. Had a quick look, if these are pots what happens is that over time the track starts wearing out, can get crackling and dead spots. Sometimes can be cleaned but often not. Is there a working position towards max they can be left on and the volume adjusted on device? Not sure how viable repair would be.
  10. Yeah looks like cuts like a cat or it's caught on something sharp. Yeah so heatshrink as suggested, glue lined should be able to reseal over itself. Should be able to get away with a good electrical tape, can be a bit gross long term if it gets slimy but I don't think they'd last that long tbh. There is liquid heatshrink you could use as well.
  11. That filter looks a lot like grease traps for range hoods. I am no expert but I'm sure there are pros and cons to using what I'll just call a labyrinth vs a filter media.I'd suspect it either can't do fine dust or would need to be more restrictive to work well, but just guessing. The second thing, I mean I've seen notches and small ridges on the blades so think they already play with those sort of modificiations. Edit: Baffle filter it's called.
  12. That's a huge red flag. Odds are they're passing on ones beyond their ability to repair. You're basically gambling on these falling through the cracks as a missed easy fix. I mean you can get lucky, had a workmate get a heap of destined for scrap CCTV gear that was bricked, the easy fixes didn't work but some of the harder ones did. He didn't pay for the gamble though.
  13. I'd get in touch with their tech support. Odds are someone has bricked it or it has a serious fault and now just doing a handball. Some devices can have issues with USB3 drives, certain file system like needing it to be FAT or problems with large volumes. I mean their instructions seem to suggest they don't have such problems but If you have one I'd still try something like an old 4/8GB USB2 one formatted as FAT and see what happens.
  14. Have you got any electronics, hardware and soldering skills ? Feel like there'd be ways with some hardware hacks, disable the power delivery or actually cut it with some I/O or so on, could have something like a relay on a uC.
  15. Can you not just wallmount it snug underneath?
  16. Hi guys just wondering of any thoughts between these two ? I believe the NT to be slightly better based on it vs the standard mini the X version is based on but the XCM has DSP and better software. Probably much of a muchness tbh.
  17. NFTs don't have to be just images. They are also not always just a link, some are on-chain. They can be used as keys or access to specific communities. There can be things like NFT holders get royalties or fees on certain platforms. With gaming and metaverse you will see this sort of thing, NFTs of items, land deeds and so on not just of your character or avatar. In terms of actual finance some more complicated DeFi will start using NFTs as receipts of sorts. So instead of getting an LP, staking or vesting token that may accumulate or rebase, you get an NFT of what assets you have in the protocol. Many such uses for complicated token mechanics
  18. Bit of a grave dig Exchange for XLM, low minimums, low fees, fairly quick and most CEXs have it. I've used RVN as well but not as common.
  19. Many CEX's charge higher flat fees on transfers than the actual gas/transaction fee. 1. They get a higher fee doing this 2. The cost is fixed and known 3. Less complexity than dealing with fluctuating fees They are probably screwing you on the fee, but their processes are likely automated for the flat amount. Also just because the transaction on chain had that fee doesn't mean they didn't incur other costs. For example they may actually use another exchange or defi platform behind the scenes that may pass on other charges and so on.
  20. Yeah that initial outlay is steep for your returns. I realise the market is screwed right now but some of the initial 1660S and 3000 series could have ROI of like 3 or 4 months.
  21. It was more of a tongue in cheek comment to you saying there is no consumer need, that if there was some say hypothetical future USB standard where an external RAM module is a thing it's something people would constantly be trying to bum off you.
  22. I mean depends on current clearances, some racks are super deep and viable A current aesthtic on some exhaust fans is a round or rectangular plate gapped out slightly and sucking air through the gap all round the edge. They are very high CFM so seems plausible, looks nicer than a grille. So the thinking was with a very sturdy front plate there could be options for drawing air around screens while still looking good. I think overall there could be some interesting cooling designs with more space to work with and unusual configurations where front to back with minimal space used is the usual goal.
  23. Could you not have a 4RU, have the screens extended out ans suck air around the screens on the front ?
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