artuc

Do your existing cameras have audio line-in & out?

Just hear me out guys. Ditch the glass, mesh the side, make the entire case one huge ass blower with your PC inside.

In Australia the same consumer protection applies to prizes as a normal sale. To go to an exteme you could have people trying to pull a dodgy running giveaways/raffles etc. trying to sub out the prize with defective, damaged or refurb things and so on. On the other hand though especially in tech you could have items that are beta or early revision, samples and so on not covered by warranty from the outset. In that case it would suck for a small reviewer to be personally on the hook if they did a low key giveaway of a few items otherwise gathering dust. Becomes a grey area, morally and optics wise I'd argue as to what the giveaway runner gains if anything, what expectations and T&Cs were set and so on. May help to be more clear up top on the LMG side and maybe clarify with some manufacturers If they will warranty it.

How has it ended in disaster ? Should just need to break active not both... ?

Why do they do that, it is gross using audio connectors for power, can end up damaging stuff if someone starts wildly plugging it into things. Anyway: If you can find a power supply suitable with the correct tip. I have seen a few of the 3.5mm tips as an add on accessory to suit the interchangeable tip type power supplies. Like so: https://www.radioparts.com.au/product/30978030/pw8030-35mm-mono-interchangeable-dc-to-suit-switchmode-ps-to-suit-switchmode-ps To give you an idea of something that may be available. Other options using a suitable power supply without the right tip. Somewhat more difficult, yet nicer longterm is cut the barrel plug off a suitable power supply and solder on a 3.5mm mono plug. Easier slightly less nice option is minus the soldering and use a 3.5mm mono to screw terminal plug. Chunkier, worse from a pull-out/strain relief angle but convenient and good for testing.

Yeah so basically as you move the switch positions the contacts will break or make as in disconnect or complete the circuit. However electricity can get a bit eager and can arc or 'jump' a small air gap when the contacts are close to each other. It's not generally wanted and can cause damage to the contacts if excessive. A lot of switches will will have a spring or tensioned parts so that contacts move quickly between positions, kind of jump or snap between them. You don't want them casually meandering over, if switches are mushy it's generally a bad thing. Anyway on that note, don't forcefully or deliberately hold switches in spots they aren't supposed to be in, moreso if you hear arcing. Same goes for say holding a breaker or RCD on that is tripping.

From the title thought you mean you had a VGA cable plugged in and were missing some colours and only had red. I feel old. My bones hurt.

Wouldn't do this for commercial use only as a side hobby. Still never really flew my DIY one, turned into this huge arms race of flight controllers where when I went to work on it I got comms passthrough working for my ESC but the next firmware broke it and then my flight controller was dropped entirely, you'd switch firmware and one thing or another would be broken. Lot of sussing and experimenting, I managed to get serial data going for the receiver but it wouldn't send telemetry back even though theoretically capable. Really good for building knowledge of all the fundamentals but wouldn't want to be chasing parts, tuning and figuring out compatibility for something you do as a day job where you need it to just work.

The warranty person probably can't authorise a resolution for this for you. Not legal advice but I would send them a response along these lines, lay out all the facts and what action you will take. Something along those lines. Could also probably hit up social media, review sites, tech journos/influencers about this If you don't get any traction but I'd try spelling it out to them first how much they stuffed up and it's on them.

Yeah had an old monitor a while ago I actually fixed with a recap at the time but it was very rarely just randomly turning off. Then sometimes wouldn't turn on from standby. Then ded.

Can you help with physical labour for cabling and install and have the tools ? Run 6x Cat 6 to each point and bring out to a 6 outlet plate to save on cost or a cheap/partially loaded patch panel if there's an existing rack. Chinese NVR with on board PoE + camera pack from the likes of Hikvision, Dahua or Uniview plus an appropriate sized hard drive eg. 4-10TB Purple/Skyhawk etc. Should be just doable at that budget if on mates rates labour cost.

Rocket league Free is good. The competitiveness when getting stomped though is a tough one. Far more chill just versing derpy bots. Minecraft Can be cool playing together, building a house etc. Can be some overlap with Roblox as some games are clones or have voxel building/destruction aspects. Been meaning to see if they'd like something like Stardew Valley or Snowrunner

Done the basics ? Update service running ? Firewall/antivirus/network issue Run the dism/sfc cmd commands

Depends how bad I'd say and how it's affecting you in game. I have pretty bad upwards drift on one in it's neutral position and a bit of slop. Didn't really notice before, however it's now creating false inputs in a game and causing me to select wrong items and options in menus. You can see it in the calibrate section of the settings. I am probably going to try a hall effect replacement but they are a bit exxy. It will only get worse though as it wears more so at the very least maybe order it in to allow for shipping and procrastination time.

Fine to do if you want. If you're doing a lot you usually would use a dedicated fuse/relay box as it ends up neater than dinky inline fuses and relays everywhere. Also consider if doing or already have an aux/dual battery setup as that can change what is wired to where as you would likely run most stuff off that battery not your starter.

Agree with second hand gear, that was my initial setup. A Technics amp I got very cheaply and an old JVC record player Classy wood veneer, had a solid base with aluminium platter and arm so just put on a new cartridge, new belt as the old one had turned to sludge and set it back up. Nice little setup.

Pretty sure we have had the older lower capacity brown ladda in our lg remote. No issues

Yeah really not designed to be repaired a lot of the time or only a few times at best. Even when they are things like plastic clips can just fail with age. Had that when changing a globe on a work car and when trying to unclip a cover the plastic housing just crumbled in my hand. It happens but I was not happy about it. There can be a knack for it, often you look for hidden screws and then try to gently pry open and feel for clips and pressure, ribbon cables you gently pop out the tabs, check for tabs and clips on connectors and just very gently try to navigate your way through.

Have a look at Victron Phoenix inverters. Few videos have them as pretty quiet, pure sine wave, good quality.

Bit hard due to the size but you can cut/saw/engrave slots into a screw and use a slotted screwdriver to turn best case or bash against using the screwdriver hit with a hammer to spin it in the right direction at worst case. Can drill the head off entirely and may be able to grip the remaining shaft with pliers or grips. Can also grind flat spots on the shaft, again much harder with such small screws. Screw extractors similar issues, so small so hard to do and not a lot of meat. You could entirely drill it out and may be able to say tap a bigger size in the hole, use a threaded rivnut or a j-nut instead. A fresh bit of the correct size with a good tip or coating could have helped from the outset. Applying downwards pressure and again hard at small sizes with more delicate gear but tapping/hitting lightly downwards as you turn can help.

If those are precision/jeweller screwdriver bits they are way too small for this.

Okay so best practice with anything like this is to lightly get a few threads going for all the bolts/screws and then alternating around say diagonally oposite tighten them making sure everything is lined up/seated correctly. That way everything snugs up nice and straight and consistent and allows for things to be slightly off and all come together. Same basic idea as wheel nuts. I say this within reason and you don't have to do it conpletely anal but say if you go full ham on one corner of something it may pull everything out of alignment and so on. With the above method you can get some pretty out of whack things mounted straight and properly with room for error. Typically I use a PH1 or PH2 driver on those size case screws. You can damage screws with the wrong bit but you also need to learn how to feel when you're doing damage or camming out. Be aware of the difference between Phillips and Pozi. I at times in a pinch use a slotted (hell even a knife blade) on Phillips without damage, just need to finesse it and know when it's okay and when to get the right tool. Like a really snug corroded up Pozidrive screw is going to be a bad time even with a same size Phillps when it might go okay for you putting some brand new IKEA stuff together. Just notice the feel and see whats going on. Had some idiots on site go nuts with impact driving machine screws and absolutely shredding the guts of the head out. Morons. Also bits and drivers do wear out eventually. You may notice say a Philips driver even of the correct size that slips more easily than a new one and it can also be uneven so it may work better for installing or removing the if you do a lot more of one or the other it will be better at the opposite. If you look closely you can see the wear and it's why for say trades you can buy big tubs of the same bits. Well that's all my rambling tips for now.

I mean you don't become a billionaire by being a good dude. Generally the personality trait mix that makes it possible tends heavily to the asshole spectrum. Gotta be willing to screw a lot of people chasing that level of greed. With Musk a lot of people seem to fanboy/girl him basically because EVs and SPACESHIPS! and conflate that with the actual person who isn't someone to be admired. Human garbage is putting it nicely imo.

Few times I've seen sites with old vaults they've tended to decomission them, disable the door so it can't lock, often used as say a store room or similar. For a retrofit as a server room I'd imagine the best bet would be something like leave the vault door open and run everything through that opening and have another door or anteroom or something.

Just to reiterate. Don't solder wires before putting them in terminals or crimping. The solder cold flows and leads to a loose connection. See below: https://cdn.thomasnet.com/ccp/00142951/263810.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj9tMCN5YaAAxUv-2EKHRULBG4QFnoECCMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw04FhaWXEYdmcfTSLT8rAsj