Bazrat

Fixed: Somehow Ended up re-seating the CPU after I got time for it, didn't change anything. So ended up trying a BIOS update using the USB Flash thing. Soon as I pressed the button display showed up but then started spitting 100's of errors and said something something failure then just booted into Ubuntu. After a reboot couldn't boot again, pressed the USB Flash BIOS button and it properly updated this time and now all seems well, for now. Everything's running and haven't had any problems for now.

My brother got a new Motherboard and CPU, to replace his Ryzen 5 2600 + MSI B450M Bazooka Plus. Both were working fine and had no issues, he just wanted a faster CPU. Got his system up and running fine, no issues also. We used his old 2600 + mobo to replace the i5 7500 + h270 gaming-3 in our "server" pc, that we use for our media server / minecraft servers etc. just for a bit of extra omph. The full specs of the server we had before and after: Before: i5 7500 H270 Gaming 3 24gb ddr4 2133mhz RX 570 4gb Seasonic focus gold 450w Ubuntu 20.04 on NVME drive After: Ryzen 5 2600 MSI B450M Bazooka Plus Same 24gb ddr4 2133mhz Same RX 570 4gb Same Seasonic focus gold 450w Same Ubuntu 20.04 NVME drive Upon trying to first boot, I got a solid white VGA debug LED on the motherboard and on my screen was a white blinking underscore. Waited to see if maybe it was just having a slow boot, after 5 minutes gave up and I tried re-seating my GPU. Didnt work, tried 2x different GPUs, a 1060 6gb and my 1080, same LED on boot. I've tried re-seating RAM, trying 2 ram sticks, 1 ram stick in all slots, no success. I took out the NVME boot SSD out in case for some reason that was messing something up, nothing, I took the CMOS Battery out waited a few minutes put it back in, I got the new Setup press F1 / F2 etc. menu come up, pressed F1 to get the same blinking underscore back. Haven't been able to get the same menu since. The only thing I haven't tried yet is re-seating the CPU. I've also got a 3 year warranty for the board, which I got back in August 2019 for my brother, so maybe if nothing else works I could try do something about that? Not sure. Is it possible I've somehow broken something while in the process of swapping it over to a different case? I'm always trying to be careful when installing parts, I never bumped it harshly, put it down on a wet surface etc. So not sure how I would've but I guess it's also a possibility. But I wanted to ask what else I could try to see if I can fix this. Thanks in advance. Edit: I should also mention I've never done a BIOS update on the board, on the back it has a BIOS Utility USB thing, would that be worth giving a shot?

I have a similar noise happen on my 1060, not sure if it is the same issue, but when the fans go from idle and start to ramp up they make a similar rattle noise. What's the fan speed and temps when it happens? You could also set your fans to a static rate and see if it still happens too. If it is that, there's not much you can do about it that I know about except always having the fans at a constant speed / changing the fan curve.

I basically said a similar thing in another post but I have a h500 (which is basically the same as the h510 I believe, might be wrong) with an overclocked 2700x, gtx1080 and rx570, system never throttles or anything of the sort, playing some heavy titles under 100% load my 1080 will hit 78-80c but that's it, don't do anything heavy on the rx570 but it idles at 40c. CPU barely goes past 65c under full load (I do have a bit of a beefy cooler though). Dust is really the only "problem", gets a bit more dust build up than other cases but its not like a daily clean, I personally do it every 1-2 months (should probably do it more lol). I mainly wanted it cos I really like the aesthetics . I have installed some extra fans, (all Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3, 2x 140mm intake, 1x 140mm + 1x 120mm outtake) intake ones did improve CPU thermals but not by much, but I got some for aesthetics as well, front looked to empty lol.

I have an h500 with an overclocked 2700x, gtx1080 and rx570 (for virtual machines), system never throttles or anything of the sort, playing some heavy titles under 100% load my 1080 will hit 79-80 but that's it, don't do anything heavy on the rx570 but it idles at 40C. CPU barely goes past 65C under full load (I do have a bit of a beefy cooler). Dust is really the only "problem", gets a bit more dust build up than other cases but its not like a daily clean, I personally do it every 1-2 months (should do it more ) and its pretty easy to clean the front filters anyways, but cleaning more always helps lol. Terms of noise on idle my system is dead silent and under full load it's audible but nothing like a turbine engine, I'd assume would be similar to most cases anyway.

So I have 2 Drives, a 500gb NMVe SSD with Windows 10 installed and a 250gb SATA SSD with PopOS installed. I wanted to try PopOS so I installed it on the spare SSD I had, been trying it for about a month, set up a Windows VM with PCIe passthrough and would like to use it as my primary OS now, but of course I've run out of space, but I also want to keep a drive with windows 10 installed as I still have stuff on there that I want that won't work on linux or the VM, as well as a 'just in case something goes wrong' drive. So what would be the easiest way to swap the drives while keeping all the files? I was thinking of setting up a 'dual-boot' on the NVMe drive where I'll put a clone of my PopOS on there (I've made some room so it will fit) then clone windows onto the SATA drive (deleting PopOS), then delete windows on the NVMe and then expand it to let PopOS have it all. Would that cause any problems? Would it just be easier to backup all my stuff I want on windows and do a fresh windows install? I do have a 1TB external drive to shove the stuff I want on. (I don't want to do a fresh PopOS install after setting that VM up, took me way to long). I do want to have them on separate drives and I have changed the boot loader on PopOS to grub2 if that matters. Thanks for any replies and sorry if this is in the wrong area, wasn't sure if I should post it here, in the windows or linux section.

I'd like to thank everyone for the help. I've finally decided to go for the Fulla 3 from a store not to far away from me, bit more than what I was hoping to spend but should be worth it in the end. Thanks again

Just saw this the other day haha

I think I might just get the mic later then, and get the g5 or g6. But since I can find the Fulla 3 for a similar price, would the g6 or fulla 3 be better?

Not trying to be rude or anything, but for the Syba Sonic or e10k, what would you mean they sound terrible? Can't say I'm super into audio just need something that's better than the onboard audio of my PC to get rid of this awful humming and what not.

Just googled the impedance of my headphones and got 38 ohms for my ATH-ws1100is pair and couldn't find anything specific for my BOSE pair apart from this which says "Impedance at 1kHz: 488 Ohms". But since its made to be used for smartphones I'm assuming similar to my other pair, 32 ohms?

So you say the DAC-X6 is good? After some looking around thinking maybe I should get that and maybe change my mic plans, I can find the DAC-X6 for cheaper than the g5/6. So I could spend a little more to get a ModMic Uni, since it's separate from the headphones it shouldn't have the grounding problem.

I don't have headphones that require alot of power and are fine with mobile devices etc. Only problem is I'm planning on getting a V-Moda Boom Pro for my headphones and seen that if I were to split the mic into the motherboard but headphones into a DAC is can cause grounding problems, I do have a ground noise loop isolator but not sure if that would do anything.

Ah ok, didn't know that haha. I've already got some audio software with equalizers / volume options, the software side doesn't really add any value for me personally. It seems the U5 and and U7 is quite a bit more pricey than the other DACs I had linked above as well as having mixed reviews. I see some other sound cards like the Sound Blaster cards, but for the price seem not as good value as some of the other DACs. But thanks for the suggestions. Sorry what's an aoc port? Like the mic in or optical? I've heard good things about the Fulla line but most of it is hitting that $200+ mark which is a bit much for me unfortunately.

I think I'd rather go for a DAC and spend a little more, read its better than usin a sound card.