The_Tytan

A capacitor, eh? Huh. Well, I just assumed capacitors were cylinders or ceramic; that explains the dead end when searching for "resistor" related queries. And THAT'S a good point; no NAND flash there, but the capacitor is clearly missing, but for what?! C is for "Capacitor". D is for "Duh, now that makes sense". Thanks; you're no smoothie. True, sticking with MLC (which I need for large A/V projects) yields results around $100 for 1TB SSDs online. While I could just buy one and call it a day, $100 is still $100, plus the e-waste to consider. The reads and writes on this thing come in at nearly double what SATA III can do. M.2 isn't supported on my mobo, so that makes a big difference. Still rocking Win7 and I have all the drivers; when it was working, it ran beautifully, so support is a non-issue. (There never was support for win10 given OCZ was purchased before win10 came out.) Being reminded of this past failure, I'm not quite ready to give up yet. Thanks so far though; I feel less stupid. Capacitor; it was a capacitor! Jezzz...

I have an OCZ PCI Express 1TB Revodrive Hybrid storage solution I bought a decade ago. I struggled then to learn why it would sporadically crash my OS as my boot drive; no dice then. Five years ago, I was purchasing precious stones to make a ring for who is now my wife; to study them when they arrived, I bought a jeweler's loupe. Today I was researching 1TB SSDs and I thought, "You know, it would be nice if I could use my OCZ hybrid drive," or at least to know why, once and for all, why it refuses to stay stable. Then it occured to me, I always looked at the software and hardware interactions, but I never bothered to look close up at the device itself. So, I got out my jeweler's loupe. What did I find? I believe it's a missing resistor in position C214! This would explain why it would work for a few hours, days, or weeks and then just crash; because it would be fine as long as it didn't attempt to interact with the NAND flash associated with that resistor. If this is the case, these are my options as I see it: A) Figure out what type of resistor it is, find a replacement, and hire someone else to solder the new resistor in place (I don't have the equipment) -Pros: It could be a permanent fix to fully restore the device, a process that is simple to accomplish in theory -Cons: Finding the chip, doing the procedure without spending more than it's worth, potential permanent damage (Longtime LTT fan; I know what could happen.) B) Figure out some way to disable or halt the controller's access to or use of that NAND flash chip -Pros: Potential monetary cost is $0, no risk to physical damage, and theoretically I could start using it right away -Cons: Uhhh, is this even possible? Is this a software fix or would this too require physical manipulation (please no!) C) Some other option that someone out there can bestow upon this thread? -Pros: Could be better than both A and B -Cons: It could be another issue entirely! A solution may not exist, but here I am... I don't want to waste the money I spent years ago or the silicon I have now. What should I do? Please help me.

Ahhh, THAT explains the lack of product. Thank you! I thought myself crazy to think that these technologies hadn't been combined for just no good reason since they both existed at the same time. To that end... Does a Thunderbolt 3 capacitive-touch monitor exist?! I will buy the adapter just so I can use my thunderbolt 2 optical cable.

The title says it all: Thunderbolt 2 Capacitive-Touch Monitor - Does it exist?! I have a set up where I would really benefit from a touchscreen monitor with peripheral plugs (USB for flash drive, headphones, special tools, etc). The best value touchscreen I've found is the Planer PCT2235, but to have a thunderbolt dock is inconvenient because this monitor is on a multi-axis wall mount. Cost is not an issue and color accuracy is not a priority, but it must be capacitive, <60Hz refresh rate, preferably have a low latency rate, and above all else... the monitor MUST be Thunderbolt 2 compatible to accommodate directly plugged peripherals. If it Thunderbolt 3, but a 3 to 2 adapter accompanies the find, that is also acceptable. I'm exhausted from research. Thank you for your help!

... Sooo c-c-cold... Alone. ... THE VOID! ... Emptyness... No one t-t-to... talk. ... to... ... *sigh ... Sooo c-c-cold... :-C

I'm trying to hook up my GTX 1080 to my LG 31MU97-B, both of which have Displayport and HDMI. No problem right? WRONG. For two reasons: 1) the computer and monitor are far away from each other (cooling, noise, space, etc.) and 2) The aspect ratio of the monitor, 17:9, is bigger. This is a 4K display capable of 60Hz with 10-bit color and Chroma sampling of 4:4:4. If I remember correctly, it's what LMG uses. But why specifically is this a problem? Bandwidth. For those of you who don't know, Displayport standard 1.2 is certified to carry up to 17.28 Gbps. HDMI2.0(a/b) is able to carry marginally more at 18Gbps. This monitor isn't UHD 4K(3840x2160), but rather DCI 4K(4096x2160). Factor in everything else and you have a 4096x2160@60Hz/4:4:4/10-bit signal with a total bandwidth need of about 19.11Gbps, just barely over what older cables can do, even at regular distances. This HDMI port on this monitor can permit the passage of the described signal, but capped at 30Hz (24Hz depending upon who you talk to). "But this monitor's Displayport cert. is 1.3/1.4. Just get a cable and call it good." ... Were it so easy... I need a 30m/100ft cable. Regular (to quote Linus) "peasant" Displayport cables begin to crap out after 10ft. I have a run in excess of 80ft. The best solution in this case is to go fiber optic (hence the title). Why 100ft then? Have you tried looking for 80ft anything? But really, I'm looking for 100ft for future flexibility. These kind of cables are not cheap per unit; but, if you pay a little bit more up front to get a slightly longer cable than what is needed, you've covered your future self. I digress to cost though. I can't find anything lower than $600 and looking for anything closer to 80ft doesn't really help! I'm trying to aim for a price point of $150-$250, maybe $300 on this one component as I'm already WAY over budget. The astute among you may recall an LTT video covering the 100ft Corning USB 3.Optical cable. I picked up the Thunderbolt variant dirt cheap for use with my peripherals, external drive, and my other, "lower" resolution display. It's great! And yes, Thunderbolt cables (not 3) can be used as Mini Displayport, but to change the ends to regular Displayport with adapters that conform to Displayport 1.4, in both directions, that won't interfere with the operation of the fiber optic cable is not that easy. I'm not against the idea, but good luck finding adapters that WILL, beyond a shadow of a doubt, work with a fiber optic cable. Which conveniently brings me to why I'm here... The point I'm trying to make is: I need a 100ft fiber optic Displayport cable that can carry a signal in excess of 20Gbps. I'm doing my best to not regret this project. My wife is already annoyed with how long this has taken. That's where I'm at. Please help me! :-(