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About mrplt

  • Title
  • Birthday 1998-06-03

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Montreal, Canada
  • Biography
    Undergrad Computer Engineering Student in McGill.
  • Occupation
    Student, part-time manager at a restaurant


  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 2600
  • Motherboard
    ASRock X470 Master SLI/ac
  • RAM
    2x16GB G.Skill Aegis 2400Mhz
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX1660
  • Case
    Corsair Carbide 275R
  • Storage
    Intel 660p 1TB SSD + Seagate 2GB HDD
  • PSU
    650W EVGA 80+Bronze
  • Display(s)
    Acer ED322Q
  • Cooling
    Stock AMD cooler
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K68 Red
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65 PRO RGB FPS
  • Sound
    Edifier M3200
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64b

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  1. I'm honestly okay with the 200GE and the 2200G PC (although you could get something without integrated graphics) except 4GBs of RAM in the cheapest one -- 8GB is the bare minimum and I don't think anyone would get a PC with 4GB RAM (especially if you're using the integrated graphics) No FPS comparison charts? No benchmarks? A rather small thing but you didn't use the Wraith Stealth cooler that comes with R5 2600, you didn't even use the one that comes with R5 2600X. A footer about this wouldn't hurt. Also on a separate note why would you pair a 2200G with an RX580? And at least specify whether it's 4GB or 8GB. Honestly I would just repurpose the existing footage for a new video (maybe a detailed Ryzen 2000 vs. Ryzen 3000 comparison?) instead of publishing it. I would talk more about small details like the ones above but it's pointless as we have Ryzen 3000 now.
  2. This worked to a certain degree. Then I connected the speakers to the monitor through the 2nd audio in jack on the volume knob, the static is completely gone. Thanks a lot!
  3. Last week! I picked it up new last Sunday and I started hearing the static a couple of days ago. I thought the 3.5mm audio jack (in) on the woofer was causing it, so I plugged the audio jack to the 2nd input port on the volume control knob. Still the same. Oh, I'll try this, it actually makes perfect sense as I use a 6-plug outlet from Dollarama to plug everything in! Thanks a lot!
  4. Hi, I recently built a PC and got Edifier M3200 speakers. I connected it to my PC through 3.5mm connector, and it was fine at first. A couple of days in, I started hearing radio static, it's actually a radio station (I can even hear the songs lol) It happens more or less all the time, and it's there as long as the 3.5mm connector is plugged in to the subwoofer/computer (if I plug it out from either side, it disappears) It's not the cable, as I tried it with another cable and the noise is still there. I also plugged the cable to monitor audio-out (through HDMI) The noise is still there even if I plug my headphones in (through the speakers) Has anyone ever experienced something similar? PS: I would change the speaker cables, but they go directly in the speakers so I can't take them out.
  5. I've bought a couple of used PSUs before, mainly for very cheap builds where it's not worth buying a new one. They both worked for more than a year and I got rid of them as they both developed coil whine. Buying a PSU, especially one that's been used for mining, isn't an amazing idea. I would definitely go for a new one.
  6. I got a Corsair K68 Red around a week ago. I'm a fan of spill resistant keyboards as I always put my drinks right next to my keyboard lol. The wrist rest is pretty cheap compared to the rest of the keyboard, but I like the feeling of Cherry Reds. They are pretty quiet, amazing when gaming, but it took me a while to get used to them while typing. (as everyone says about Cherry Reds) I like the software it comes with and all the cool light effects (I can also control the mouse from the Corsair app), but I'm just wondering why this only has red backlighting, and that the RGB version is significantly more expensive. Also while everything is red, the Caps/Num/Scroll Lock indicators are blue -- a very small detail but I wish they went with Red LEDs instead. This is my first mechanical keyboard and I didn't want to buy one from an unknown brand because I can't afford another broken keyboard haha
  7. So I had to remove the CMOS battery as the computer wouldn't post with RAMs overclocked to 3200Mhz, so as I did that I ended up changing everything back to default. That ended up solving my issue.
  8. I will do that! I also have HWMonitor installed, it shows the same stats.
  9. Hi, I recently built an AMD system with ASRock X470 Master SLI/ac. I have no problems with the system so far, and I had no problems overclocking the RAM. I wanted to overclock the CPU as well just to see how big of a difference it'd make. I went into the UEFI, and changed OC Mode setting from Auto to Manual, and went with 4Ghz and 1.3V, which apparently wasn't ideal as it crashed in the middle of Cinebench. So I went back to UEFI and changed the OC setting back to Auto, saved and restarted the system. Task manager still showed 4Ghz, I didn't try another stress test, went back to UEFI and changed the manual settings to 3.4Ghz and default voltage, and switched the OC Mode to Auto again. I restarted the system, and the base speed is at 3.4Ghz again. But the processor always runs at 3.7Ghz, which it didn't in the first place. I can tell the OC setting is still at "manual" mode (even though I chose Auto) as task manager shows the base speed at 3.39Ghz and not 3.4Ghz. (When I first tried changing the settings, I just switched OC mode to manual and left the voltage and frequency at stock, that's when I got 3.39Ghz for the first time) Has anyone experienced a similar thing? Thanks!
  10. So I've been using my Xeon build for a while, but it started not to POST every now and then and I didn't really want to spend money to fix it, instead, I decided to build a new computer. I checked Intel first and realized it'll end up being significantly more expensive, especially considering you can get a Ryzen 5 2600 for $229CAN. So here's my build: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4Ghz (I am thinking about slightly overclocking it, but I haven't done any overclocking yet and I have yet to have an occasion where I felt like I should overclock it -- I'll work on it once I have time) CPU Cooler: Stock (I have a Cooler Master Hyper T4 that I used on my old Xeon, but the stock cooler seems to be pretty good) Motherboard: ASRock X470 Master SLI/AC (I wanted a board with Onboard WiFi, also seems like the reviews are a mixed bag about this -- I haven't had any problems yet and built in RGB is an extra; so is Bluetooth) RAM: 2x16GB G.Skill Aegis 2400Mhz (Price per GB was significantly less than 2x8GB models) SSD: 1TB Intel 660p (This was $129.99 at Canada Computers, I was going to go with Samsung 970EVO but I couldn't resist the price to performance ratio. More on this later.) HDD: 2TB Seagate Barracuda (Cheapest one I could find) Graphics: EVGA GTX1660 (I considered getting a 2060 -- but it ended up being a tad bit too expensive for me) Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Bronze Case: Corsair Carbide 275R Black (I cheaped out here -- they had two options, one with plastic side cover and one with glass, and I went with the plastic one.) Keyboard: Corsair K68 Red (This only has red backlighting and no GB, it's not a big deal for me as it was cheaper and I still get the light effects) Mouse: Corsair M65 Pro RGB Screen: Acer ED322Q (It's curved, 1080p@60Hz, more on this later as well) Speakers: Edifier M3200 (Bought them as I thought the screen didn't have built-in speakers but they do; they're horrible though -- These speakers are fine for the price) They also had a promotion where you get a Corsair Commander Pro (it's apparently worth $70US) for free. I have it, but I didn't even install it, as I'm not a huge huge fan of RGB and I didn't go for RGB Fans/Coolers. I also initially planned on building the computer myself, but they offered me free installation at Canada Computers so I just let them build it while I was watching. The technician ended up doing a good job. It was also pretty weird at the store, as 4 people bought 2600s when I was there. I've watched LTT's video about the Intel 660P a while ago, and I knew about its caveats. Honestly, I haven't even considered getting it until I saw it on sale. It was cheaper than getting a 512GB Samsung 970 EVO. So far I haven't had any problems, I have a friend who has a similar build with 970 EVO and we didn't see any real-life difference. (PS: I'm not saying 660p is better than the 970, not even saying they're on par. I'm just saying it's a great option for the price) In terms of the screen, I wanted a curved one as I have an L shaped desk and I can just place the screen at the corner. This also was on sale, reviews about this one is also a mixed bag and so far I'm really happy. I also wanted to go 1080p as I went with a 1660 instead of a 2060 (or a 1660Ti) CPU idles around 35C, and hits 65C at full load. GPU also idles around 32C. It's definitely quieter than my old build.
  11. How about a review/video about used laptops (especially 2012-2015 MacBook Pros, as more an more people are buying them because of the high prices and problems with the 2016-2018 models) Maybe a comparison between a couple of laptops from 2013-2015 era? (Possibly a price-to-performance comparison?)
  12. Spilled coffee on my MacBook Air during finals in a library -- literally minutes after talking with my friend about how funny it would be if we spilled coffee on a computer (especially funny because of the Caffeine app on OS X) I broke my friend's laptop screen with a mouse (it was truly an accident) I bought an HTC HD2 instead of an iPhone or an Android phone -- it was fun to flash Android and Windows Phone 7 to it though. I built a PC back in 2012 with a FX-8350.
  13. I have a Desktop PC for gaming and power-demanding stuff and a MacBook coding etc. However, I've been looking for an iPad (with Apple Pencil) to take notes in lectures. However, as I saw Surface Go on sale for Black Friday I went for it instead of an iPad. This is the first computer I bought without prior research. I got the 4GB/64GB version without Microsoft keyboard (with Surface Pen) and I've been using it for around 3 weeks. Here's what I think about it so far: It has a 10" screen with a resolution of 1800x1200, which goes bright enough and the pen support is amazing. The pen magnetically sticks to the left side of the tablet, and it works perfectly fine. There is a small design flaw though. If you have the pen on the left side of the tablet and listening to something, the pen tip keeps rattling and it's so annoying. I love the MagSafe type charger. Its front camera is really good for a Windows machine (also for a tablet), making it a great Skype machine. Its back camera is 8 Megapixels, and the photo quality is amazing as long as it's well-lit. Windows Hello works perfectly, however, I'm not sure whether it keeps learning like Apple's Face ID. Sometimes it doesn't recognize me, especially when I'm wearing a tuque. The built quality in general is good, however when I use the pen, the screen kinda moves in which is the biggest drawback for me. It has bezels straight out of 2015. Battery life is around 6.5 hours for me with WiFi&Bluetooth on in battery saving mode. It's not as advertised but I'm happy. Specs-wise, it has a 1.6Ghz Pentium Gold 4415Y processor, 4GB of RAM and 64GB of eMMC storage. What I didn't know when I bought it is that it doesn't have Turbo Boost. Anyways, I always have Chrome with YouTube and a couple other tabs, Messenger, WhatsApp and OneNote open and I can't complain so far. I considered getting the 8GB version but I think the 4GB version is a better match with the processor. I've read somewhere that YouTube playback can be finicky on Chrome, however I haven't had any problems so far. The storage, 64GB eMMC, is a tad bit faster than an average spinning Hard Drive and nothing like an SSD. I also got a 64GB microSD storage for photos and music, and for $15 it works perfectly fine. Instead of the Microsoft keyboard, I went for a Logitech Bluetooth keyboard for $30 that works perfectly with my Surface as well as my phone and my MacBook. It's more or less as wide as the Surface itself and it's very easy to use. Here comes the biggest problem with the Surface Go: Windows 10. (It comes with Windows 10 in S mode but takes a minute to switch to regular Windows and it's free -- so it's not a big deal) Microsoft has been working on a tablet friendly OS ever since Windows 8. And to be fair, at first glance Windows 10 is very touch-friendly with the Start Menu, Settings screen and apps like Maps, Office365 and Edge works perfectly with the Pen. It's almost impossible to choose multiple files on File Explorer, right click is a problem as it works half the time, choosing a word when typing pops up a touch friendly box when using certain apps and in others it's the regular right click menu. And I ABSOLUTELY hate the fact that the touch keyboard overlays the text box in certain apps (WhatsApp, for example) It also doesn't show up sometimes, thankfully there is a keyboard button on the bottom right corner. Also when you put the tablet in sleep mode it gets very, VERY warm especially in a case/backpack. This is a portable device and I shouldn't have to turn it off every time I'm done using it (going from one class to another, for example) I never turn off my MacBook and it never gets warm. In conclusion, I didn't buy this as a laptop. I mainly bought it to take notes and for light use. It's not blazing fast, but it does what it's supposed to do perfectly. On top of all that, it's an actual Windows computer and Microsoft is constantly improving the touch aspect of Windows. Oh also one last thing, Palm Rejection when using the pen could be better, it takes some time to get used to.
  14. Refurbished Laptops? HPs or Dells (Dellrefurbished) with 4th gen i5 or i7 and SATA SSD. They sell for ~350$CAN so significantly cheaper than new laptops, they're still thin and light and they have okay battery life. Could be a "Back to school" piece.