Blindsay

2x 64GB corsair kits

As I noted in the first post, the bios does see all 8 sticks and reports them as 16GB each, but is only showing a usable 96GB. None of the sticks are dead

Hey all, I got a Gigabyte X299 board paired with a 7940X that I tried to put 128GB in (8x16GB) and it sees all of the memory in the lots but only reports 96GB. I already tried reseating the cpu thinking it might be that but I am wondering if it is because it is not on the supported list for 8 sticks. I see it listed for 1,2,4 sticks but not 8. I see it is listed as 1Rx8 and the only ones that are checked for all 8 lots are 2Rx8 Am I SOL here or is there anything i can try?

So right now we have telephone service through comcast and they are charging us like $45/mo which seems expensive and also it required a special cable modem which was also expensive. Separately in our barn which is about 150ft away we have an old landline through or local phone company (I forget what that one is costing). We want to keep the telephone number in the house but ditching the one in the barn is fine as long as there is a phone of some sort there (needs to be an actual phone, a cell is not going to work). Inside the house we have one of the vtech phones with the expandable bases and it does not reach across the house (house is very old and has a lot of horsehair plaster walls so it murders signals). Trying to find a phone solution that can cover both builds, with the same telephone number. I do have great wifi coverage on both buildings (all unifi gear). So I was wondering if there are any clever solutions for something like a phone that could leverage the wifi network and cover both buildings? These guys looked interesting - https://www.ooma.com/home-phone-service/ There is switch in the house on the wall closest to the barn, not sure if the DECT6 phones have any better range than our older ones. Or do i look at some fully VoIP option? We are trying to drop are monthly costs (probably 80-100month currently total) but dont mind buying some equipment up front. Also open to hosting something myself if thats an option (as long as its reliable)

Almost looks like their new cable modem but i think he has fiber right? https://store.ui.com/us/en/products/uci

So i found in the AMD software the max speed of my gpu fan was set to something like 76%. I gave it a max of 100% and it is able to keep the hot spot at like 98c max now

Thanks, It is this exact card - https://pg.asrock.com/Graphics-Card/AMD/Radeon RX 7900 XTX Phantom Gaming 24GB OC/index.asp I had it in a Fractal torrent nano but it couldnt get fresh air that well. Just put it in a phanteks NV5 but that didnt seem to help much

I thought I remembered an issue a while back with the 7900 XTX hot spot temp? I can't remember what happened with it though. I ask because as I'm sitting here playing Diablo 4 I see my hotspot at 108c. Everything bone stock and plenty of airflow (in fact I just got a new case to try to help it a bit even)

bumping this thread a bit. I see the new OLED version of the Samsung is coming out, but i suspect that will cost a fortune. The Samsung Ark is interesting (when on sale), any other displays i should consider as well? Doesnt have to be 32:9 but I want to be able to have "2" work monitors side by side on it so it must support picture by picture edit: looks like the Ark cannot do 2 HDMI sources in picture by picture so thats out. I would also consider a 3840x1600 or 5120x2160 21:9 monitor (I just dont want 3440 wide as I find it to be too little when it is cut in half). Maybe even a large (like 42 or 48") 16:9 OLED that could do picture by picture (Does not look like the LG c2 can at least)

Hey all, Looking to get a new monitor for my home setup since I am working remotely permanently now. Trying to find something that is good for both my work setup and also is good for gaming (at least 120hz). Right now I have an Alienware aw3420dw and some other rando Dell 27" 1440p monitor above it. I hate trying to look either up or down for one of the monitors and a 27: 16:9 + 34" 21:9 side by side would be too wide for my desk The Samsung 49" neo G9 is the one that has caught my interest most. I like being able to do picture by picture to give me 2 monitors for work and then gaming on the entire monitor. I know the OLED version is coming out later but I suspect it will be quite expensive. So I need something big enough to be able to comfortably work on 2 things side by side for work and then also be a good choice for gaming. Not sure if there are any other cool options out there? Samsung Ark? Other new OLED monitors (IE ones that are unlikely to burn in)

Just to follow up in case anyone else has the same question. I did end up buying https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07RC8F2L3 I have my wireless transmitter for my G915 and G502 on it, my Schiit Modius and my AT2020USB+ mic and they all switch back and forth between my work pc and gaming desktop without issue

I dont need a KVM though, I dont need/want it to handle my displays at all. I just want to be able to switch my 4 listed usb devices

So I have 4 items i would like to be able to toggle between my gaming PC and work laptop and was thinking of a usb switch but wanted to make sure it would be fine. Logitech G915 Lightspeed Logitech G502 Lightspeed AT2020USB+ Mic Schiit Moduis DAC I dont care about having the Logitech software installed on my work laptop so I was thinking of getting a usb switch with 4 ports and plug the wireless transmitters and the mic/dac into it and switch them all back and forth. Would that work fine? (Monitors i just use the second inputs on and dont need to worry about those) edit: was looking at this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RC8F2L3

Worth a shot, not a terrible expense if it doesn't lol. Thanks for the tip, appreciate the help

Ah yeah mine is a passive cable, I can snag an active cable though if that fixes it.

odd title but i have a couple dell monitors that have DP output so i can daisy chain them and they work fine (Dell laptop to monitor 1, out to monitor 2). I have an alienware display that is used by my gaming desktop and the only other port is hdmi. I thought you could go DP - > HDMI (but not the other way around) but when i try to add the alienware into the chain it wont work (doesnt matter where in the chain it is placed). Is there some extra feature that is required in this daisy chain of monitors that is getting lost in the conversion to hdmi? edit: I was reading https://tripplite.eaton.com/products/multi-stream-transport-mst-hub-technology and it says "I have two existing monitors. Can I daisy chain them using DisplayPort MST? The first monitor in the chain, the one connected to your laptop or PC, must have DP 1.2 ports in and out. DisplayPort Out on the first monitor is connected to the second monitor, which needs to have a DP in port. Alternately, you can use a DP adapter or adapter cable to convert the signal to some other standard such as HDMI. Don't forget to verify that you graphics card and first monitor support DP 1.2 and it is enabled." So it sounds like as long as the HDMI monitor as at the end of the chain it should work? Tested the cable from my gaming pc and i know the cable works

Hmm, I guess i was getting the models confused a bit, didnt realize samsung has 3 49" displays. The Neo G9 looks nice but it is 2x the cost of the regular G9

Thanks for that info, I had just mentioned the 240hz since they push that so heavily, I wasnt sure what else might have been different. So between the two the G9 Neo seems to be the way to go. Any other monitors in this class i should consider? being able to do Picture by Picture for work is probably the biggest thing i cant compromise on

Edit: changing things up a bit. I need a monitor that can support picture by picture so i can have dual work monitors but then game on it as a single monitor. Open to any aspect ratio as long as i can get at least 1920 pixels of width per screen for work. Samsung G9 Neo (I know the OLED version is coming out but i suspect it will be quite pricey) LG 38GL950G-B (3840x1600) or 40WP95C (5120x2160 but the specs for gaming seem meh) Are there any good 16:9 OLED monitors that use the newer OLED tech that support picture by picture? (LG C2 does not seem to unfortunately). Any other good ideas?

So I recently completed the Mercury1 CoreXY conversion on my Ender 5+ and It is printing great but I am always trying to learn more and how to push it further so I have been playing around with input shaper. I added some corner braces all over the frame and my X values improved (and the printer feels much more sturdy) but y did not notably improve. Are there any general tips for finding out what is causing the most resonance and then how to address it? Thanks!

So on my fdm I know that for my specific printer(s) past a certain degree over overhang I need to plop in support otherwise it will droop (or worse) and I have seen fdm printers with really good cooling be able to bridge some impressive gaps but with resin I am trying to understand what will occur. Is it because the overhang will put stress on it and possibly break because it is weak before it is fully cured or because it might case the part to want to tip over. I got a Anycubic Photon Mono X 6K. I used photon workshop for my first test print and its default settings for supports was crazy and it was a pain getting them off. Trying Lychee out today and cutting back on supports a bit more. Thanks!

Yeah, I don't mind spending up to $2k but I am leaning towards wanting to buy something that I can get going pretty quick out of the box which is not a voron lol. At the end of the day if i buy a more expensive printer is it going to be 2x as fast as a cheaper printer, because buying 2 cheaper printers is definitely an option. Just since I am familiar with my Ender5+ I had been also considering getting the new Ender 3 S1 and putting a .2mm nozzle on that and dedicating that to small prints (A resin printer is on my list but I am not quite ready for one yet and the prusa mini is neat but has a crazy lead time right now) and then maybe something like the Ender 6 (or 7?). I could buy both and still have money to go towards a resin (The anycubic mono x 6k looks promising)

Alright I have about 500hrs on my Ender 5 plus (which i know is not a ton) but I know I want to add a second printer and hopefully one that is noticeably faster. I got my E5+ dialed in pretty well and the quality is reasonable but it is not setting any speed records lol. I did some basic upgrades like the silent board, all metal extruder, capricorn bowden tube and the ferrule upgrades on the wiring. I would like to just add second printer so i have more capacity but I want this one to be faster. I print large scale models mostly. I was thinking of building a Voron 2.4 but not sure if there is anything else I should be considering along those lines (something big and fast that i dont have to build would be cool but not required). Any ideas?

Don't use PBO?

Are there any good reviewers who still do reviews on individual custom loop components? I used to like reading reviews back in the day of a roundup of different cpu blocks to see thermal performance differences, flow rate, restriction etc. And then also putting different brand radiators against each other to see how much heat they can dissipate.