TKFT

11 hours ago, Blue4130 said:

He means on the motherboard, not the actual front panel. The front panel connector. But that is HIGHLY unlikely.

Yes I'm talking about the front panel headers on the motherboard. Since I'm pretty sure it's dead either way I might try and resolder the pins. Imo there was something else wrong with it there would be other obvious issues but it all works fine. It just likes to turn off. I ran a quick passmark benchmark and the results were in the expected range and the shutdowns don't appear to be tied to anything related to what the computer is doing. Like I said, it will happen in the uefi too.

Could a bad bios chip cause this to happen?

52 minutes ago, Blue4130 said:

What are your system specs? Do you have any overclock enabled?

No I reset the bios and disabled everything. Pretty sure my mobo is just dead and can't be fixed or saved.

It's a 3800x, 4080 super, gigabyte arous x470 mobo, 32gb 3200 ddr4, nvme ssd.

Well not fixed still turns off just lasts longer before doing so. At a complete loss on what to do or how to fix it.

3 hours ago, TatamiMatt said:

So then its definitely not your front panel

Then I'm sorta lost on what it could possibly be. And why can't there be a short inside the front panel header? Yes it seems unlikely but it's the only thing that makes sense.

Also it's been working fine for the past 30 mins so idk maybe it fixed itself or maybe it will turn off again. I don't trust it.

8 minutes ago, TatamiMatt said:

So am i right in saying that there are no connectors connected to the JFP pins whatsoever?

Yes, they are all unplugged.

4 hours ago, TatamiMatt said:

As with the advice of everyone else and beyond that, fully isolate the issue, unplug all front panel connectors entirely, bridge power pins for boot and run to see if it turns off again, if it does, it has nothing to do with your front panel

That is how I have been turning it on. I had initially thought my power button had gone bad and was shorting causing it to shutdown because the pc stayed on longer with the connector removed but it still ended up shutting down.

Maybe something got in and on the pins or in there. It is sorta humid here so maybe some corrosion.

4 hours ago, Blue4130 said:

What components did you swap? In my long history, I have not heard of a front panel going bad. I would not start desoldering anything from the motherboard, just disconnect the reset switch and see if that does anything.

All the connectors are unplugged and the issue was still happening. My case doesn't even have a reset switch.

I've switched the psu out, removed the gpu, unplugged every device besides the kbm. The issue has to be with the cpu, mobo or ram. I tried using only one stick of ram in and tried all 4 slots with each stick and the issue still happened. Tried using a different power cable, different wall outlet, surge protector, no surge protector. Cleared cmos, button a new bios battery in, pretty much everything under the sun.

Now it could still be the cpu but the computer is perfectly fine right up until the just turns off and it definitely doesn't crash it's powering off.

My mobo is no longer under warranty so I'm willing to do some surgery if it has a chance of working.

5 hours ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

You could try plugging the reset button into the pwr connector on the motherboard, leave the front panel power button not connected to anything.  See if it behaves differently.

I should have specified, I haven't been using the power button to turn on the pc and my case doesn't have a reset switch. All the connectors are unplugged.

My computer just randomly turns off shortly after boot. Might last 30 seconds or might work for 30 minutes but it will also shutdown completely unprompted. The thing is it has no other problems, it appears to work completely fine right up until the point it just turns off. It will happen in windows, uefi, during post and anywhere in between.

After hours of swapping components and testing and trying I've concluded my front panel header is the problem. While I'm not sure why it's happening I believe it is intermittently shorting out causing the computer to shut down. Usually I can turn it right back on but occasionally it won't work. Then after awhile it just works again. One thing to note is the PC never turns on by itself, only off. Because of this I've conclude it cannot be related to the power button pins. This leaves the reset pin but the pc doesn't reset, it shuts off so that can't be the issue either. I've also set in windows for the power button press to do nothing, meaning the pc shouldn't turn off from a simple power button press but that wouldn't effect a longer press. So what that leads me to believe somehow the motherboard believes the power button is being held down.

How could something like that happen of the power pins dont get shorted? While I am not sure exactly how the front panel header works my best guess is only the pwrbtn+ is getting 5v dc when the pc is off (maybe chassis intrusion too) and when the pwrbtn-/gnd gets a 5v dc connection the computer boots. Looking at the layout the pwrbtn-/gnd is directly above the rstcon+. Once the pc is on and the rst+ is receiving power if it shorts to the pwrbtn- above it the computer will think the power button has been pushed and shutdown. If someone knows more about how this works please do share.

To fix I think desoldering the reset+ pin has the best chance to fix the issue. I don't need it and AFAIK there is no why to disable them in bios. Seems extreme but I'm lost and out of options.

The razer blade stealth. I need a new laptop for school. 

when you try to reinstall on older windows 8, and update it, it wont activate as your win 8 key is already registered with win 10 upgrade with your hw ID, so it's best to call them.  

OK thanks I will try that again.

 you need to call Microsoft to get your PC activated again. 

I figured that's what I would need to do but when I called they told me I needed to reinstall my old windows version. Should I try calling back to see if I get a different answer?

I recently upgrade my Windows 8.1 pro install to Windows 10 pro and everything went fine. A few days ago I need to RMA my motherboard for some hardware problems and switched to a different motherboard, CPU and ram temporarily. This caused my windows 10 install to become non active and required a reactivation. I tried my old windows 8.1 product key as well as using ProduKey to find my windows 10 key and using that. Neither of those worked so I called the support center and entered my install ID and get sent around till someone told me I would have to reinstall windows 8.1 and then upgrade again. That really doesn't work because I would prefer not to do a clean install so does anyone know how I can activate window 10. Also I purchased a retail version of windows so I know for a fact I am in full compliance with the licensing terms. It seems like my only option may be to get a crack for windows 10 if I can't.

Just going to say we don't use vacuums to transport data. Fiber(glass) has a speed of light of 66.67% that of a vacuum and copper ranges from 40%-70%.

OK, thanks for your help

I don't know if this is the right place for this but here it goes.

I have been digitizing some of my movies and TV shows using handbrake and was wondering if there is any real disadvantages to using H.265/HEVC other then it being super slow (I assume because of no hardware acceleration).

Also I have heard that mkv is better then mp4 but mp4 files seem to be smaller and are more compatible. So are mkv's better or should I use mp4.

Thanks.

Would upgrade to a overkill gaming pc and give my cousin my old pc so he can join the master race.

6.5 mm is just a more robust cable that is harder to break simply because it is bigger, however if you plan on taking your headphones out most phones, mp3 players, etc only support 3.5 mm. As for DAC/Amp depending on the headphones it doesn't really matter unless they have a higher impedance, it will give you better sound than the mob amp (usually) but it's up to you if you want to do that or not

Thanks, getting the 3.5mm version.

I recently picked up and a new pair of headphones and was looking into getting an amp for them. The headphones have 3.5mm cable but come with a 6.5mm adapter. I was looking at the O2 amp form Mayflower and was wondering what the difference between the 3.5mm standard model and the 6.5mm desktop model and why one would cost so much more. Is there a benefit to getting the 6.5mm version for the future if I get an headphone with only a 6.5mm cable? Also is it worth getting the DAC/Amp combo?

I hate that you can't customize your pc parts. Can't we just pick and chose what features we want and pick a forfactor and presto you get your dream parts with out all the useless features that nobody really uses. So more skus

For 2 months I had people complaining I never responded to their texts. I finally realized it was iMessage derping because it was only iPhone users that had a problem texting me. Then i had to track down a iPhone to use and turn off iMessage. This tool would have been so nice.

I really hope that this new one e will have 4k video support one thing the m8 really lacked and I hope they keep the 5 inch screen size it is just perfect for me I can reach every part of the screen with one hand.

This card looks amazibg with those leds and the gtx 980 is a beast of a card

Honestly what is the obsession with gate after everything. Just because we had the Watergate scandal 40 years ago, and Watergate was the actual name of the place, doesn't mean we need to put gate after everything anytime some controversial or crazy happens.

But the lack of lefty or ambidextrous tools especially in schools has essentially the same effect in forcing people to become righties. I felt like shit every time we had to use scissors in school because I couldn't cut and they would always just go sideways and the other kids thought I was retarded and couldn't use scissors and laughed.