AnthonyPaull

I recently purchased an EK-FC GTX waterblock for my EVGA 1080 ti SC2, and got a backplate with it to replace the stock one. I accidentally clicked the 1080 version instead of the 1080 ti version, and it looks like the cut outs are slightly different. Will this cause a problem? I don't want to damage any SMD's. Alternatively, is it possible to use the EVGA backplate with the EK block?

I purchased my watercooling hardware recently and due to a misclick I thought the radiator I had purchased was copper. Unfortunately it was not. Rad is the Thermaltake RL360, block is the Corsair XC7. I am using a premix fluid from EKWB that is advertised as corrosion resistant, but I think galvanic corrosion may unfortunately still occur. Is this correct? Does the fact that the alu is a nickel alloy help at all, and if so how long will I be OK for before permanent damage to the rad? As I understand the block would only be a problem if the corrosion caused particles to enter the water and get stuck in the fins, but please correct me if I'm wrong. If I'm changing anything it will be the rad, as I would prefer copper for the marginally better heat transfer anyway. Thanks guys in advance

I'm fairly certain the Optiplex computers use custom motherboards, so the case would not fit the required ATX motherboard to run a Ryzen. You may be able to upgrade it to a newer intel CPU depending on the chipset and socket.

Hey how did this build go? Did you end up going through with it? Just got my XD3 today and I haven't seen anything about it online, it's almost like a ghost

Pull the cooler and backplate off and look around the PCB for any damage. You can find plenty of vids on youtube showing what to look for. If you find some damage, the card is probably kaput, otherwise it might be worth trying to do a reflow of the solder. Again, tons of tutorials for that on Youtube

You could go for a big air cooler, but your case temps will be hot and your OC mileage may vary. I would reccommend a 240/280 AIO for overclocking a 7800X

I just finished putting my first loop together with a corsair RGB Pump/Res combo and CPU block, however when I went to plug everything into my fan controller (Corsair Commander Mini) it seemed to have a 4 pin RGB connector, whereas the plug for the pump/res and CPU block is a 3 pin. Did Corsair just up and change RGB format? Also it seems to be a different connector from my Corsair fans (4 pin again) that come with the Crystal 570X. I assumed it would work because it's all corsair stuff, but apparently not. Any idea of the cheapest way to get the RGB working? I don't really want to go out and buy a Commander Pro (Especially as I already have the mini and the Pro is like $130AUD). All this BS aside, the loop looks really nice and performs well so no complaints there

So I've been running a few hours on the 1003 bios and it seems stable but performance has dropped between 3 and 5%, cpu is only boosting to 4.325 for single core now and 4.0-4.15 multicore instead of 4.25 I was getting before... Bit dissapointing but I'll take stability first and performance later. Hopefully with later versions we have the performance and the stability...

No riser cable, I've just got a response from ASRock support with an AGESA 1.0.0.3 bios included to try, so I'm going to give that a shot. What motherboard is this occurring on for you? X370/470/570?

Honestly, I was shocked when at stock I did a User benchmark run and got in the 96th percentile. The X370 boards may be running the chips faster but less stable? I'm pretty confident this will be fixed in the long run as my 1700 went from super flaky in the Taichi at launch to rock solid in Less than 6 months or so, especially with the flareX

Idc about the errors as long as they don't crash my pc. Are you using an Nvidia GPU? And getting the Whea uncorrectable error BSOD specifically?

That's not a problem, the chipset will only get hot if you're using a PCIE 4.0 NVME drive. You're fine to chuck the GPU over the chipset fan.

Yeah a clean install of windows is almost required, also make sure the AMD Promontory chipset driver is installed. Set your CPU entirely to stock, the only OC you should be doing is per CCX, but for now stock is fine, leave memory on auto and get everything installed on the system. If you're experiencing stutter at this point then you may have a faulty unit, but if not then keep enabling additional bios settings one by one and see if it comes back.

Thanks dude, please let me know, I'll give this a shot tomorrow when I have time too and let you know if you haven't done it by then

Thanks for the reddit tip, I've had a look and it seems like I've already sent most of the relevant info to them via email. I just enabled LLC to level 3 to see if that potentially helped with stability, and as for PBO I've tried with it both on and off and it's still happening. Hoping I just get an Nvidia driver update soon that puts this bug to bed.

No memory was either ar 2133/2400 or 3200 during all previous crashes

Single with daisy chain but this card and PSU have been running together for years with no issues now. I just set everything to stock in the bios and then set the CPU to 4ghz at 1.35v, I guess we'll see if it's the actual chip then...

I should probably point out that this mobo was able to run my 1700 at 4.35 pulling 230W at 1.58V with chilled water so I doubt the VRM is at fault here, and there's nothing in the hwinfo data to suggest throttling. It's also happening predominantly when the system is idle/under low load I'm pretty confident in saying it's either an issue with the Pcie communication between Ryzen 3000 and the 1080ti, or it's some kind of bios issue. I'm not seeing many other possibilities at this point

I could just try a dumb 'overclock' to 4Ghz all core at 1.35v or something to just stabilise the heck out of it I suppose, that would rule out any weird spiking behaviour with precision boost. I'll give that a shot tomorrow

Yeah dude I'm pretty out of ideas too and I consider myself reasonably tech savvy. The CPU is running flawlessly, will boost up to 4.4ghz on a few cores and the voltage will be around 1.4-1.5 but I'm under the impression that's normal, all core voltage comes well down to 1.25v at 4.2 or so. I have HWInfo constantly dumping monitoring data to a file that I think with the way I've set it up is recording right up until a few milliseconds before the crash and there's been no odd behaviour there.

Few questions for you: Have you reseated the CPU and RAM? Reseated the GPU, unplugged and replugged all cables checking for debris, including SATA? After that disconnect everything from the PC bar your keyboard and 1 stick of ram and the CPU. Take out/disconnect all HDD's, SSD's, GPUs and other extraneous stuff. Even unplug HD audio and your front panel USB's. Try boothing then. Get a hold of a mobo speaker if you haven't already and listen for the beeps, they can sometimes tell you more than a post code indicator. Try resetting your CMOS (even if it's a new mobo) If none of this works let me know and I'll have another think, if you've already done this stuff let me know what you have and haven't tried and we can go from there.

Come to think of it it may have failed just like that prior to the reinstall and WHEA errors but it hasn't happened since, and was right after I installed the CPU (Windows just had a heart attack and took 5 or 6 reboots with various settings and drivers reinstalled before working so it may have been an isolated incident related to that. With the fresh install it's been flawless aside from the crashing every 2-4 hours.

I've already reinstalled windows, happened both before and after the reinstall. First install was on my old 250GB 840 Pro and the fresh install is onto a new 970 Evo Plus. Right now the only things plugged in are my 4TB games drive and my NVME ssd. I could try a fresh install with the NVME drive and HDD removed onto the old SSD but I doubt that would chance much due to the fact the reinstall didn't work the first time.

As I said I've run a diskcheck and memtest, I know that this is *usually* to do with a hardware error but it doesn't occur with my 1700, and it's paired specifically with a PCIE error pointing to a driver issue between the CPU and GPU. I've run plenty of stress tests and nothing happens, it crashes at idle dude. In fact I'd say it's almost more likely to crash at idle/low load as it hasn't crashed once in cinebench, Aida 64, IBT or Prime 95. No OC is being run on the CPU and as I said it crashed with the memory at stock a few times with the same error so I just re-enabled XMP

Hey guys, I just upgraded from a 1700 to a 3700X on my X370 Taichi. I've started experiencing BSOD's every few hours with the error reported in windows as: 0x124_AuthenticAMD_PCIEXPRESS_UNSUPPORTED_REQUEST_UNEXPECTED_COMPLETION_COMPLETION_TIMEOUT And the BSOD reporting: WHEA_Uncorrectable_Error. I've tried disabling PBO and everything else in the bios bar XMP (I still experience crashes with it disabled). I've just disconnected 2 additonal drives that experience little use but I feel as though the issue is between the GPU and the CPU and possibly driver related due to the error. Here's a non exhaustive but fairly complete list of things I've tried so far: -Reinstall pretty much every driver -Clear all junk files from OS -SFC /Scannow -Memcheck -Diskcheck (On all disks incl C:) -Reinstall windows -Disable PBO/Auto OC etc and remove extra HDD's -Disable GPU OC -Few other things but I can't remember off the top of my head. My system is as follows: X370 Taichi running Bios version 5.60 AGESA 1.0.0.1 3700X 2X8GB Flare X B-Die 3200 EVGA 1080ti Corsair RM 750i There seems to be no indication that the PC is about to crash it just happens, both at idle and at load. I'm running the latest Nvidia drivers, haven't attempted to rollback yet but that is on my list so I'm looking for any other suggestions. I emailed Nvidia's driver support team as well as AMD's support email about 36 hours ago but I haven't had a reply yet likely due to the weekend. Any help is appreciated, I love this CPU the performance is awesome and Precision Boost is finally a real answer to Turbo Boost, I want to get this fixed us so I can enjoy my PC. Please let me know if there's any additional info that might help and i can provide it.