AL1V3

When you see it again, open Task Manager and go to the Details tab. Then enable the "Command line" column. This should show you where the file is located.
 
You can right click on the headers and click on "Select columns" to show additional columns that aren't visible by default in the details tab.
 
On the "Processes" page you can also right click a program and click on "Open file location".

"WindowsFormsApp1" is the default name for apps made in Visual Studio. It's not a specific app, so there is no way of saying what you have running on your system; it's just an app someone has programmed.

RAM and pagefile? Those are the things I imagine would have most effect. Also CPU, but when you say you can game comfortably on your PC, that shouldn't be issue.

I'm pretty sure you can, the dark rock pro 4 just uses wire clips that go through the fan mounting holes. TBH though I would say its not a good idea as the stock fans on the dark rock pro 4 are very good and the NZXT Aer RGB fans would be a downgrade performance wise unless you absolutely must have RGB. 

Im know SHURE stuff very well.  Honestly you can't compare wired to wireless performance.  Only difference is you pay a lot more for wireless.  If you can afford it go wireless if your on a budget get the wired, either way they will both sound the same.

Would not reccomend the 846. Shure IEMs are not very good. They were good for their time, but they have been majorly outclassed. Take a look at the Campfire Andromeda or Hyla CE-5.

You don't need anything too powerful you could grab like a topping d30 or a Modi 3 as a dac and a JD's labs atom or a monolith liquid spark as a amp for like a total of around $200. But if you want to be set for any headphone you want you could grab the Monoprice thx AAA amp/dac desktop not the portable one for $500. But that overkill

the specific key varies depending on the manufacture.  When it comes to pretty much all custom builds, it is usally delete when it comes to pre builts or oems, it varries between the function keys

it's F2 or Delete key, most BIOS accept both. You can use 60% keyboard, most of them have both keys function represented by pressing two other keys at once (say Fn key with 2 key for F2)

That pore monitor....

So im looking for a camera that can do 1080p 60fps cuz i want to do my channel smoothly, you dont need the details. Price doesnt matter

I saw an episode of Tech YES City recently that seemed to get at the heart of this issue. Apparently, any RTX card that has been built using Micron GDDR6 Memory (likely a specific batch of memory) is likely to die early. Unfortunately, you'd never know if your card was using the faulty memory or was lucky enough to be using reliable Samsung memory (per the video I mentioned) without removing the heat sink and looking at the actual modules. Since, you can't do that without the card in hand, buying a new card might still be a crap shoot today. Unless someone can find a statement from Nvidia acknowledging the issue and assuring customers that the bad cards have been weeded out of global supplies, I'd be wary of buying one.

Here's a small review:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/philips-fidelio-x2-a-review-by-baycode.729413/
 
and i would say yes.
good low mid's ans highs.

Hz are cycles per second.  FPS is frames per second.  So a 144Hz monitor may be doing one of two things.  Running 60Hz to match a signal of 60FPS exactly, or running something else and adding frames or dropping them to get as close to 60FPS as possible.  An example is when a 120Hz monitor shows two frames for every one frame in the signal.  To get smooth video you need to have even math with these two numbers.  Its when your monitor end up with fractions that you get blurred or other video issues.  144Hz/60FPS means that the monitor has to duplicate frames inconsistently and your eye will/can notice this. (Note: FreeSync, and nVidia's frame rate sync avoid this issue on higher refresh rate monitors by slowing down the monitor to match whatever the FPS of the signal is.)
 
So in the end, you just need consistency with Hz and FPS.  Two rules to follow when you dont have technologies like FreeSync, etc.  1) Its better to have higher Hz than FPS.  2) You want Hz/FPS to be a whole number.
 
Hope that helps.  Also Rtings.com (I am not affiliated) has some amazing videos and info written on everything you could want to know on the above and them some.  I learned most of what I know from there.

The bridge comes with the motherboard and supports as many as the motherboard can support. In this case, it's two cards and the spacing is two slots.

I am, i need it for gaming (cuz mining is a bitch)
 

Amd 580 or gtx 1070ti
Now hear me out, i saw in a video that the 580 strix has more fps than the msi 1070ti titanium and showed the charts, but i dont know yet, so which one should i get?
 

It's okay, but it's just a waste of money. There's no benefit at all to get one that's 750W, unless it's cheaper. 

if you not an overclocker, the MSI.
generally you are just buying on lowest price of the GPU version. there all within margin of error in performance. comes down to best thermals (GPU Boost 3.0), acoustics, and physical appearance. lowest one being the MSI armor-series poor thermals wrecked the overall performance. gaming x is in between the strix and the FE
 
i think it was Jayz that said his FE was his best overclocking card on water cooling.

The question isn't what monitor can handle your PC, a CRT from 2003 can 'handle' your parts fine, the real question is what kind of resolution can you PC handle. You should probably go with a 1080p monitor considering you have a 1060. Go for a 120Hz+ if you're into competitive FPS games but other than that a normal 1080p 60Hz of any size 21.5" or above should be fine.

That all looks pretty good!
 
Personally I would go with a 1060 6GB not the 3GB as the extra Vram is defiantly needed in today's games and will help the card last a little longer when games get more demanding.  
 
A great case I just built a PC in was the NZXT S340 very easy to build in lots of room for all those parts and it does a great job of keeping dust out of it.
 
Also Ram pricing is really high right now and I would recommend a cheaper set of non RGB ram as that extra cash saved could go toward the better GPU.
 
Otherwise good luck!
 
Don't know if you have heard of https://pcpartpicker.com/ but here it will show you best current prices and it will tell you if something isn't compatible within your build.
 
 

first issue, your mobo dosent match your cpu.  the z370 chipset is for coffie lake or 8th gen processors.  the 7740x goes with x299 and please if your going x299 dont go with anything below a 7800x because anything below that is a waste of money.  Also why no ssd?  the fire cuda is only part ssd and still your OS wont boot that fast.  

Buy an 8700k to go with that motherboard. Get a ssd if you want fast boot times (I recommend a samsung 850). Get a nzxt s340 if you want a simple looking case. 

I would go with an 8700k for that price it is only $30 more