JMCB

It's the recording and stream of the video. In game is fine.

I honestly haven't tried yet. It's such a hassle to have to enable and re-enable it, since I've had it freeze up a couple of times switching back and forth. Game performance is as expected though.

I've had nothing but trouble getting my stream setup to be jitter free. I want to play at 4K and am willing to have the output be a lower resolution if it means better performance. At first I thought it was the monitors I have and their framerates, since I have 120hz 4k monitor, but even lowering it to 60hz does nothing and still shows jitter. Here are my settings: Video Base: 4k Output scaled: 720p Downscale Filter: Billnear Common FPS value: 60 Video Bitrate: 6000 kbps (tried also lowering from 1800 to 6000, nothing seems to help) Encoder: Hardware (NVENC) Audio Bitrate: 128 Anyone able to help? Should I just disable SLI and use one card to stream? I do play games that take advantage of SLI (Star Wars Battlefront 2).

Heat has not been an issue at all, as when I'm benching I'm getting about 72-76 max on my setup. Would delidding actually help?

My 8700k is a garbage overclocker; tried two different MBs and I can only get 4.8ghz on all cores stable.

Anyone have any luck with this type of setup, with or without overclocking? I want to upgrade my 8700k, own an Asus Strix Z370-E Gaming Motherboard, but I really don't want to redo the whole entire system if I don't have to.

I should have just left it. I'm glad you were reading the details! Hahaha

Being that I was on the fence for the longest time, and the upgrade bug finally made me itch, I am now the proud owner of a brand new Nvidia Geforce RTX 2080 Ti Founder’s Edition. Previously, I was running two Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1080 Tis in SLI, and this was giving me awesome performance at 2k with Gysnc. I knew this was going to be a slight downgrade in some applications, but with SLI seeing less support, and the resale of 1080 Tis still maintaining their value, this was the perfect time to upgrade. To fully convince myself I decided I would do a graphics card comparison between the 1080 TI, 1080 TI SLI, and 2080 TI. Let’s look at the two cards we’ll be comparing: Gigabyte Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Turbo VRAM: 11GB GDDR5 Memory Bus: 352-bit Memory Bandwidth: 484 GB/s Base Clock: 1480Mhz Boost Clock: 1620Mhz TDP: 250W Nvidia GeForce RTX 2080 TI Founder’s Edition CUDA cores: 4352 Giga Rays/sec: 10 RTX-OPS: 78T (76T) VRAM: 11GB GDDR6 Memory Bus: 352-bit Memory Bandwidth: 616 GB/s Base Clock: 1350Mhz Boost Clock: 1635Mhz TDP: 260W Here is the system specs for the system we’ll be testing on. Test System: CPU: Intel i7 8700K (stock speed @ 4.7ghz on watercooling EKWB EK-Supremacy EVO CPU) Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix Z370 RAM: 32 GB DDR4 G.Skill TridentZ RBG 2400mhz SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB M.2 HD: WD 4TB Blue Power Supply: Corsair HX1200 OS: Windows 10 Pro Monitor: Asus PG279Q 2K 165hz Nvidia Driver - 419.17 Programs Used: Fraps (for In-game benchmarking) 3dMark Time Spy Benchmark Apex Legends Battlefield V Call of Duty: Black Ops 4 Overwatch Star Wars Battlefront 2 (2017) Testing methodology: All games and benchmarks were done with the latest Nvidia driver release, which is 419.17 as of 2/25/2019. All in-game settings were set to their highest possible settings at 2k resolution (2560 x 1440), with Gsync disabled so that it doesn’t affect our FPS in any way. Fraps was used to measure 3 minutes of game time which was once started in-game. Each game uses multiplayer on a server with lower ping, whenever possible, and each game was tested with the same multiplayer mode and map. For the game and benchmark choices, these are games I regularly play. 3dMark Time Spy Benchmark Developed with input from AMD, Intel, Microsoft, NVIDIA, and the others, 3DMark Time Spy is one of the first DirectX 12 apps to be built "the right way" from the ground up to fully realize the performance gains that the new API offers. With its pure DirectX 12 engine, which supports new API features like asynchronous compute, explicit multi-adapter, and multi-threading, 3DMark Time Spy is the ideal benchmark for testing the DirectX 12 performance of the latest graphics cards. Results: Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo Score: 8443 Validation Link: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/33897012? Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo SLI Score: 14,210 Validation Link: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/33897209? Nvidia 2080 TI FE Score 12,607 Validation Link: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/33974203? I knew going in that the 1080 Ti SLI setup would outperform everything else, although single card vs single card, the improvement was almost 50%. Apex Legends Apex Legends is a free-to-play Battle Royale game where legendary competitors battle for glory, fame, and fortune on the fringes of the Frontier. Results: Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo Min: 76 Average: 113.82 Max: 145 Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo SLI Min: 37 Average: 89.6 Max: 143 Nvidia 2080 TI FE Min: 82 Average: 118 Max: 146 Between the single card and SLI 1080 TI setups, we can see that SLI scaling is broken, despite NVIDIA saying it received support for SLI in this title with the latest driver version. While playing it in SLI, it seemed like a hot mess – stutters, inconsistent frame drops. Switching to one card greatly improved the experience. In addition, we weren’t getting a whole lot better performance from a 1080 Ti vs a 2080 Ti. I’m guessing this is also due to newer drivers that aren’t optimized for this title at all. I’m sure future updates will bring some improvements. Battlefield V Enter mankind’s greatest conflict with Battlefield V as the series goes back to its roots with a never-before-seen portrayal of World War 2. Lead your squad to victory in all-new multiplayer experiences like the multi-map Grand Operations. Fight across the globe in the single-player War Stories campaign. Assemble your Company of customized soldiers, weapons, and vehicles – then take them on an expanding journey through Tides of War. This is the most intense, immersive, and innovative Battlefield yet. Game was played in DirectX 11, as DirectX 12 does not support SLI. Results: Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo Min: 56 Average: 95.25 Max: 137 Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo SLI Min: 89 Average: 109.6 Max: 151 Nvidia 2080 TI FE Min: 102 Average: 120.16 Max: 181 The 2080 TI clears all the other setups and appears to be the best choice. In regards to the 1080 TU SLI, again, we had issues with SLI, but this time it is because Nvidia has disabled it for this title. This can be worked around with Nvidia Inspector, a free tool you can download. However, within the last few Nvidia driver updates they did something to lock that option out, and the settings won't save with Inspector, thus making SLI completely useless. There's a work around that involves going to the Nvidia driver file folder and making two files – nvdrsdb0.bin and dvdrsdb1.bin read only. After doing this, SLI worked a bit, although with abysmal scaling at only 15%, and I was able to finish out the test. This scaling is probably the result of Nvidia trying to lock out SLI, as past drivers I’ve had better framerates with this setup, and it wasn’t as jittery in gameplay. And because we have to, I had to try this game with RTX ON! Unfortuantly, in the multiplayer levels I saw a very slight performance dip but didn’t see much difference in quality. So, I decided to load up the first level, and you could see the difference. Here is how the 2080 TI performed: Nvidia 2080 TI FE (RTX at ULTRA Settings with Direct X 12) Min: 46 Average: 56 Max: 101 Call of Duty: Black Ops 4 Call of Duty: Black Ops 4 features gritty, grounded, fluid Multiplayer combat, the biggest Zombies offering ever with three full undead adventures at launch, and Blackout, where the universe of Black Ops comes to life in one massive battle royale experience. Game was tested in Team Deathmatch. Results: Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo Min: 56 Average: 95 Max: 137 Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo SLI Min: 122 Average: 134.37 Max: 141 Nvidia 2080 TI FE Min: 82 Average: 135 Max: 189 The 2080 TI barely takes the cake with the best average, nudging out the SLI setup slightly. However, minimum framerate was better on the SLI setup. In addition, we also saw much better scaling 1080 TI vs 1080 TI SLI this time around. Overwatch The world needs heroes. Join over 40 million players as you take your place in the world of Overwatch. Choose your hero from a diverse cast of soldiers, scientists, adventurers, and oddities. Bend time, defy physics, and unleash an array of extraordinary powers and weapons. Engage your enemies in iconic locations from around the globe in the ultimate team-based shooter. Results: Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo Min: 113 Average: 180.37 Max: 208 Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo SLI Min: 144 Average: 172.7 Max: 214 Nvidia 2080 TI FE Min: 129 Average: 216.32 Max: 276 Overwatch isn’t a demanding title, but still sees a lot of play, and numbers on this game with high-end gaming systems just don’t seem to be around. As you can see, all of these systems can run this game maxed out at 2K resolution with max settings easily, and with high enough refresh rates to make use out of these monitors with 144hz+ refresh rates. The 2080 TI smokes both setups. Star Wars Battlefront 2 (2017) Hurtle between the rooftops of Theed in a speeding starfighter, cut swaths through armies of Clones with Darth Maul, and build your legacy on the battlefield. Your Star Wars fantasies come to life in Star Wars Battlefront II's multiplayer. Results: Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo Min: 50 Average: 76.45 Max: 99 Gigabyte 1080 TI Turbo SLI Min: 63 Average: 103 Max: 141 Nvidia 2080 TI FE Min: 70 Average: 120.8 Max: 146 One 1080 Ti felt smooth playing at 60fps, but on a higher refresh rate you could for sure feel the delay. Jumping to two 1080 TI SLI felt like a big improvement, but we were still not hitting the target of 120fps+ for the higher refresh monitor. The 2080 Ti was finally able to hit that benchmark, and just felt so much better. Conclusion: In real world applications, the 2080 Ti is either very close in performance or outperforms a 1080 Ti SLI setup. If you already have a 1080 Ti, at current market prices of $550, you’re better off selling it and paying the difference for a 2080 Ti vs getting another card for SLI; it’s a much better experience. If you can pay around $400-450 for the second 1080 Ti, that’s where things get interesting – go for the second card. However, do note that Nvidia seems to be focusing less and less on SLI scaling, and even a $400 add-on might not help the games you play. If you already have a 1080 Ti SLI set up, this is where things can get a bit muddier. It just depends on if you feel like paying $300 after selling the two cards and getting a slight upgrade. I’m happy with this choice, but if you can wait, it may be better to hold off for the next generation of cards. Overall, I’m very happy with my new card. The two Gigabyte Nvidia 1080 Ti’s have been sold on eBay.

Anyone have any luck enabling this? I really don't like the green glow and would rather have it red to match the rest of my setup.

Clearly you haven't played the BF5.

https://imgur.com/gallery/66GIl Posted my gallery. The system is 85% complete. I plan on doing a second loop for the GPU, then adding hard tubing throughout the build. I plan on doing a writeup (and I eventually will) but work decided to kick my butt.

Son of a... I'm probably going to forget even more things. HAHAHA

Reserved for Chapter 3.

Pictures (click link to view them all): https://imgur.com/gallery/66GIl Completed:

Chapter One – Planning or ‘Lack Thereof’ On a spur-of-the-moment decision on a trip where I was originally “just looking”, I decide to buy a 4k monitor at Fry’s. I took it home to replace my aging 30” HP zr30w. Boot it up. Damn, does the screen look sweet. Time to try a game. I throw PUBG and Star Wars: Battlefront 2 at it. Wow, gaming on it with my current setup isn’t ideal. Low frames, load times, etc. I’ve been putting it off for so long, but I guess it’s finally time to upgrade. My Original System It’s been awhile since I’ve done a new build. Heck, the last time I did a computer build was before they had hard tubing commonplace in water cooled systems. This was a record for me; the longest I’ve ever held on to one system (CPU/MB almost 6 years, GPUs 4 years). So, with tax season at hand (and a well-deserved bonus work paycheck in my grasp), it was finally time to treat myself to a new system. First thing I ever do with picking out a system is look for a case. It may seem a bit strange, but I want it to look pretty, and it’s the thing that will be standing out the most. There was a case I’ve been eyeing for a while online, and on my previously mentioned trip to Fry’s I saw it out. The Thermaltake Tower 900. That thing would look sweet with two reservoirs and some slick water cooling setup. Checked online. Yup, they were looking pretty sweet indeed. Most of the builds I’d seen were sporting the Snow edition, I decided to pay the extra $20 and go for the black, and do an inverse with a black and white theme. Hopefully it’ll turn out sweet, but we’ll focus on that more later. It’s time to start picking the components! Initially, I couldn’t decide which chipset, Intel x299 vs z370 or AMD x399. After refreshing myself with a few different articles and videos, comparing benchmarks between the different formats, and a few dozen more articles later, I removed AMD from the running (not to say they are terrible, but I’m trying to squeeze every bit of performance out as I can, even if it costs a bit extra). So that left me between x299 and z370. I decided that I was going to go for the x299 format because I could later upgrade to an 18+ core processor later on down the road. Then all logical reasoning went out the wind. I go on Newegg to proceed to make system purchase. Check prices on everything CPU/MB combo-wise. There was a solid combo offer on Newegg for an ASUS ROG Strix Z370-E motherboard with an Intel i7 8700k. Done. Well, instant change of mind. I thought initially it would have been more of a sidegrade from my previous i7 3960x processor, but performance numbers online showed otherwise. Besides, one of the reasons I went with x79 in the past compared to whatever consumer end systems at the time was the plan to run multiple graphic cards with more PCI-E lanes. Since I don’t plan on doing that again, it became a non-issue. Speaking of graphic cards, in my current system, I have four watercooled AMD 290x video cards. When I first had this setup, games looked amazing on it, but slowly after time, AMD started supporting four-way crossfire less and less. It got to the point where in order to run quite a few regularly played games, I would need to disable crossfire completely in order for the game to run. And whenever a new game came out, this was 90% always an issue. In addition, when I finally bumped the resolution to 4k, it was the final nail in the coffin. I would need to upgrade my system in order to play games maxed out again. I needed a GPU that would be able to give me better performance than what I currently had. Well, you all know what card that is; the Geforce GTX 1080 TI. Damn, video cards are expensive. Silly alt-coin miners, taking all the supply and jacking up the prices. Nothing was reasonable online, and the reasonable ones that popped up were quickly bought up fast. I only have X money, I need this card without breaking the bank. I could have probably settled for a Geforce 1070, but then I found it: The Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1080 TI Turbo, and it was “only” $899. I instantly bit. My god is it ugly with its white and orange color scheme, watercooling will fix that issue, so it was again, a non-issue. I hit the purchase link, and after a decline on my card and a phone call to my bank, and another click, all the sweet gear was heading on its way. Here’s the breakdown of what I purchased: System: Thermaltake Tower 900...Tower Intel Core i7-8700k CPU Asus ROG Strix Z370-E Motherboard G.Skill TridentZ RGB Series 32GB DDR4 Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1080 Ti Video Card Corsair HX1200 Power Supply Samsung 960 EVO 500 GB M.2 SSD WD Blue 4TB HD LG Blu-ray Rewrter Optical Drive (What? I use this.) At this point, I’m pretty excited, no, STOKED, for this build, but staying up late ordering this bad boy and bank phone calls wore me out. Besides, I also had to work really early. I decided I’ll order all the cooling tomorrow on separately. Time to take a break. A work day passes, come home, I start getting notifications of stuff getting shipped out, nice! Time to start working on the cooling. The idea is to do two separate loops – one for the CPU and one for the GPU. They will be opposing colors and stand out from the case. The CPU was going to be a black block, black radiator, black fittings, and clear hard tubing with PrimoChill Opaque Sky White liquid premix. Picked out an EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 420 radiator and an EKWB EK-Supremacy EVO CPU block. The GPU was going to be a white block, white radiator, and clear hard tubing with Liquid.cool CFX Opaque Black. It’s going to be epic. But there’s a slight problem… The graphic card PCB wasn’t reference. F***!!!! F***!!!! What a n00b mistake. This is what happens when you haven’t done any of your favorite hobby in years!! Public service announcement – don’t get rusty, you’ll miss something. But another PSA – we can fix any problem. Looked online, nobody makes a full cover block for this card. I could go for a universal block, but I’ve had bad experiences with those in the past. It’s ok. I’ll just sit on this graphics card for a bit until either I find a deal on a reference GTX 1080 TI or wait it out for when the 2080 GTX comes out and just flip it to the miners (right, RIGHT?). Because of this small little update, at this time, I’m going to hold off on the liquid cooling for the video card, and just do the CPU loop. That means a few temporary changes. I still want to do my color scheme in the long run so I’ll keep the CPU side black still, and since the card is white, it’ll substitute nicely in place of my original plan. I’ll use RGB lighting to make it glow orange to make it match for the time being as well. It’s working(-ish). Major decision was a change to hold off on the hard tubing for the time being. I don’t want to have to redo any of that, because it’s a bit more expensive and it’ll be the first time I’ve ever used it. For the flex tubing, I went with some PrimoFlex Crystal Clear tubing. Time once again to do that buying thing, so I hit the purchase link. Decline again. Sigh…my bank hates me. Another phone call to my bank, and after 20 minutes on the phone I finally do the last click, and the final pieces are on their way: Cooling: EKWB EK-Supremacy EVO CPU block Thermaltake Pacific PR22-D5 Reservoir/Pump Combo EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 420 Radiator PrimoFlex Crystal Clear tubing 10 FT Pack PrimoChill Opaque Sky White liquid concentrated premix XSPC Black Matte Compression Fittings (8 qty, overkill, but cheaper with the pack) 3x MASTERFAN PRO 120Air Pressure RGB w/ Controller (Gotta add that orange color to match that ugly GPU cooler) MasterAccessory Universal LED Strip – RGB (This counts as cooling? No? Ok, but I purchased it at the same time, yikes, get off my back). Future Purchase: Gallon of Distilled Water (or could watch money burn and just throw the concentrated mix into the reservoir). Well, that’s a lot to write for just the planning step. I can’t wait to go over the journey of actually building this bad boy with all of you (I also like to write – guess that helps). Anyways, thanks for reading all this, if you did. To give you a preview of what’s to come, here is a picture of some of the parts just arriving to my place. DAMN, the Tower 900 is a lot bigger than I remembered seeing in the store. I think I saw a different case at Fry’s…