leo1798

This past year I finally got a nice TV, a refurbished Samsung Q80R (2019 model). The TV has worked great and I am very happy with my purchase. However, there has been one problem that has only continually gotten worse - it flickers the connection on/off when I use my Nintendo Switch with it. To better describe it, the screen will randomly go black for as little as an instant or up to 5 seconds, and my TV acts as if it is forgot and then recognized the input again. I have tried the Switch with three other displays and it works great with no issues. I have tried the TV with an Xbox One, PC (60 & 120Hz), Nintendo Wii, Roku, and whatever else I could borrow to test for issues (besides another switch) - again, it worked great. But the Switch refuses to play nice with my TV. I have tried multiple different HDMI cables (including 48gbit) and all of the ports on the TV. I have tried setting game mode to auto, manually turning it on/off, playing with other settings, etc. Nothing helps. Sometimes switching HDMI ports will help for a little, but the problem always comes back. I've seen that others on Reddit have had similar problems with a few finding weird fixes, none of which have worked for me. Does anyone here have any idea what I could do or what the problem might be? It's upsetting that the best, most expensive screen in my house is refusing to play nicely with a common game console.

Probably either going to sell this extra for parts or look into getting a new main board, thanks for the advice.

I recently bought a lot of old consoles, and some of the things included were two sega genesis 2's. One of them worked flawlessly and just needed to be cleaned, but the other has given me nothing but trouble. At first, it didn't consistently power on and didn't output a video signal (was detected by the display, however). I took it apart and cleaned it with some isopropyl alcohol - it now powered on and displayed with accurate sound, but not the video was nothing but artifacting. I tried cleaning the cartridge and cartridge slot, and when this still didn't work I tried resoldering the cartridge slot, display connector, and power connector. The video now seems to have more accurate colors and the sound works properly, but it is still an artifacted mess. The same cables, games, and TV work with the other genesis 2, so it has to be something with this console. I don't know if there's something I need to replace or what, so I was wondering if someone here would know or if someone could redirect me to a place that would. Thanks a bunch. Pictures of the PCB, display output, and whatnot are attached.

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This issue has resolved on its own. I fully charged the laptop and fully discharged it twice. Finally, after an overnight charge, my laptop is finally reporting an accurate charge. Just wanted to follow up if anyone has this issue in the future.

My laptop's battery was on its last legs, barely being able to hold a charge for more than an hour and shutting down almost instantly after a low battery warning. I decided to purchase a replacement battery for my ASUS q534u - I bought from a 3rd party, BattDepot, because ASUS does not have any easily identifiable recommendations or first-party purchase options. The replacement was a breeze and my laptop turned on right away after I reassembled the laptop. However, I have since encountered issues. My laptop is unable to identify the charge of this battery. I'm not sure if this is because it needs to calibrate it or something, but it causes certain issues. When plugged in, the battery icon looks like this: it says "255% available (plugged in)" when I hover the cursor over top. When unplugged, the battery icon looks like this: it says "unknown remaining" when I hover the cursor over top. Aside from the obvious drawback of never being able to know my battery capacity, this inability to recognize the battery's capacity results in my laptop entering emergency low power mode when unplugged resulting in everything and anything running at a slideshow pace. I'm not sure if there's a way to resolve this issue or if I should return this battery. Regardless, I do want to continue using this laptop which I have used as my daily driver since 2016 for web browsing, photo editing, and similar lightweight tasks, so I'd like to have a usable battery.

I wouldn't recommend it. The performance difference is negligible and the increased power consumption will both cost more money and possibly overwhelm the Gaming OC's cooler as the Aorus's already is pushed very hard. That's if such would even work. Some BIOS's don't work between different models. I'd just try overclocking as much as you can and call it a day.

Yeah, it should be fine. The original power supply is designed to run it with accessories and yours should be close enough to spec that it would be fine.

Honestly, just set your CPU to stock and let it go, it takes care of the voltages, clock speeds, and everything for you. If you manually lower the voltage, you will lower performance. If you manually lock the clock speed, you will lower performance except in select all-core workloads. The temperature fluctuates and that's fine, it's designed to work that way. It has a boost algorithm that increases performance at lower temperatures until it gets too hot and needs to dial back. If you want to get extra performance, you can overclock your infinity fabric and your memory, and there are guides to do that. Your CPU voltages are fine at default though.

Looking at Amazon's US listings for 5700XT's, the Gigabyte Gaming OC is the best performer for the price at $400 flat. They have cheaper cards, but they're honestly really loud. Edit: Link https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Graphics-256-Bit-Gv-R57XTGAMING-OC-8GD/dp/B07W95D5V3/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2I11G1WLD1ODH&keywords=5700+xt&qid=1578802285&sprefix=5700%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-13 (Won't be in stock until 1/23 though) Alternative: https://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-11293-01-20G-Radeon-Backplate-Graphics/dp/B07WC7683C/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2I11G1WLD1ODH&keywords=5700+xt&qid=1578802576&sprefix=5700%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-4

You could try re-applying thermal paste on your CPU because your GPU seems fine. Although even with most overheating you should still get an error message or the processor should throttle.

Actually, just go with the AX200 out of these options. It supports the newest Wifi standard and isn't too expensive.

What exactly are you looking to do with this wifi card? Laptop upgrade?

Your processor will be fine unless you're aiming for the absolute highest possible framerates, but even then it won't be too far off. Freesync will work with either GPU, you just have to enable it for some monitors in Nvidia's control panel. The 5700XT is very close in gaming to the 2070S but up to $100 cheaper. However, if you stream or do a lot of video editing, the 2070S pulls further ahead thanks to Turing's encoding performance. So, if you only game, I'd go with a 5700XT. If you do a bit of content creation, the 2070S may be worth the extra cost. Just be careful which model of card you choose to buy. Some like the ASUS TUF 5700XT are absolutely terrible.

Do you get an error screen when it crashes or is it just a hard shutdown?